Top 10 Tips For DIY Electrical | Lessons Learned From 100 Million Views
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
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Have learned a thing or 2 over the 5 years on CZcams after publishing 300+ videos and wanted to share the lessons learned on DIY electrical projects. Most of this information and lesson learned has come from the viewers and all the great comments over the years.
Chapters
0:00 Thank You For The Support
0:53 Tip1: Education, NEC, Safety
2:44 Tip 2: Recommendation for Standard 15 Amp Outlets
4:58 Tip 3: Avoid Integrated LED Light Fixtures
6:47 Tip 4: Should You Wrap Outlets and Wire Nuts With Electrical Tape
8:00 Tip 5: Avoid Self-Contained Devices
9:09 Tip 6: Invest In Better Electrical Tools
10:49 Tip 7: Get A Hubbell HBL 9450A 240V NEMA 14-50 Outlet
13:40 Tip 8: Upgrade Your Home With LED Recessed Lights
15:30 Tip 9: Avoid Drywall and Paint Repair During Electrical Projects
16:29 Tip 10: Best Wire Connectors On The Market WAGO 221 Lever Nuts
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Your participation in the comments is likely one of the keys to your longevity and channel success. It's much easier to stay more invested when there's back and forth with the creator. Thanks for all the education, and also, as I mentioned before, some folks probably can thank you for saving their lives with your guides on safely doing DIY electrical work.
Further Wago tip… put a piece of tape around it before you pack the wires. They may be strong enough to keep the wires in (seen pull test almost 70 pounds), but I have accidentally bumped a lever putting the wires back in the box and had an issue.
I'm realizing I don't know how often I've heard "Knipex" spoken. I always heard "nye-pex" in my head, so "kuh-nee-pex" seemed off, but that is in fact how the company's official branding says it.
Today I learned!
I "invented" the push-in (back stab) wire nuts decades ago, only to discover that they were already being made. I guess I should go through all the places where I have used those and swap in Wagos or the equivalent.
your hide wiring behind baseboard is a great idea for anyone trying to add ethernet jacks in their home. being an IT guy I can't rely off wifi for my new place 😂
FYI I highly recommend Cat6a if you're doing this retrofit. will be future proof for decades. Cat6a is 10x the speed of Cat6
Nothing like a Wago to save you when the wire in a box is too short. Most of the time I still use wire nuts with twisted wires. Yes I tape devices in metal boxes and multiple gang boxes. I think I may have said this before on one of your other videos. Keep on making them.
Very well done video! One thing to be very careful of. Those 50 amp receptacles are not all equal as you know. Hubble makes their devices rated at 75 degrees C. They were the first. The rest all used to be rated 60 degrees C. Make sure you check. What does that affect? Since breakers are rated 60/75C with Hubble, you can use the 75C column in 310.15(B)(16) table. So #8 cu for 50 amperes. If the cheap and 60C rated, you must use 60C column and #6 cu.
Best wishes, Kevin
Congratulations Scott and thanks for all you do!!
Thanks Keith 👍
All the info in this video is fantastic especially about the WAGOs. One criticism I have though is I would not recommend the non contact voltage sticks because they can become very unreliable, and I creates a safety issue for yourself. For about the same price or cheaper, you can get something like this Klein Tools ET45 Voltage Tester and it is just as easy to use. I'm an apprentice electrician and every single electrician I have talked to told me to NEVER trust the non contact tester and to just use your meter.
Yeah. My non-contact voltage tester was apparently low on batteries and did a beep when i pressed the button but when i checked an outlet, it didn't detect voltage. Luckily I have a very similar philosophy dealing with electrical as I do with Firearms. Always treat the black wire (and red if it's a 240v circuit) like it's hot, even when you know it isn't. Due to this i only got a little rap on my knuckle instead of having the crap shocked out of me if i had grabbed the outlet on both sides.
Having just spent Saturday & Sunday trying to install a new ceiling fixture in our laundry room, I'm here to thank you for the WAGO221 suggestion. They are the only thing that went right. My 65 year old home has nothing behind its walls & ceilings that resemble your videos. That doesn't stop me from trying to be a DIY'er at age 68. However, after all the work, I now have bare wires hanging from the ceiling & more frustration & disappointment than at any time in the past few years. (Guess I'm too old.) Won't stop me from watching your videos though. Your tips are sound! Thanks.
Definitely not too old
You got this Steve!
What a beast. Congrats, Scott; the success is well-calculated. Thanks for your generosity toward our channel and CZcams DIYers everywhere!
One thing I found about the 6" LED lights is there is a slight difference in bezel size between some manufactures. I replaced a couple 6" can lights with the Halo model made by Cooper, and the bezel mostly covered the hole for the can light, but not quite. I replaced those with the Juno brand and found the bezel is about 1/4" larger in diameter, and fully covered the holes. Both worked fine as far as lighting, and both offer 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, and 5000K color temperatures. Fortunately I found that out before I replaced the other 14 can lights.
Thanks for the tip
Congratulations Scott on your accomplishment and thank you for what you do. Your videos are amazing help to lots of us. Mush more success in your future projects and I will definitely be watching.
Congratulations Scott and Thanks for all the Great Videos.
The circuit breaker on the bottom saved me a service call! Great timing since I had seen that you had pasted this video recently. Thank you. Love the channel.
Nice video. Thank you!
Congratulations Scott and keep up the great work! Even though I'm an experienced electrician I still enjoy watching your electrical videos.
Like always, great job! Concise and right to the point! Thanks…Jim
Thanks for the map of code levels. Also I am going to make a temp light like you made even though I usually use battery lanterns. It would be great for a longer term remodel project. That way all the trades can have temporary light instead of installing one of those porcelain fixtures.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to record and post this educational video.
Happy to help!
I enjoy your videos and I appreciate the quality of feedback in the comments you receive, so I really liked this summary video. Thanks. Nice work.
Thanks!
Love the Wago's and will be using them to install my new Halo LED lights in closets and my office.
Excellent summary! I know you like your die grinder. Cutaway idea: Legrand Adore. I don't know if it's built to the standards of their regular commercial gear, but they do target commercial and luxury markets with that line. I'm really tempted to use it in my renovation.
The tape around the receptacles is usually a service technician thing. The only time the tape is needed is when you work on hot circuits. I always install things thinking about the next tech that comes through.
Another good vid full of good info and tools ... Thx Scott ...
You bet!
Always look forward to your videos, electrical or otherwise. Very informative, yet concise.
I appreciate the support 👍
I am glad I ran across your video they are very informative! Thank you
Thanks for the support 👍
Thanks for another great video!
I 100% agree on stepping up with receptacles and breakers. A couple of the times where going "cheap" can really bite you later.
The greatest mistake I have made as a DIYer is not going with commercial grade receptacles. The ones I have that get a lot of use are wearing out and will need to be replaced. If they are not frequently plugged in, only then might one get away with going cheap.
1:24 🤔 looking for this link in the description to the map/reference. Thanks for the great content 👍🏽
Great video !!!!
Hey Scott, congratulations on the milestones. Something that would be really helpful and interesting to me would be anything you can tell me about the 'care and feeding' of fluorescent lighting. Installing is pretty straight forward but what about maintenance and in depth understanding of the different types of fixtures and bulbs. Help!
Just to let you know, the Legrand commercial outlets are about $4.50 - $5 each, at least on HD site. Lowe's has it for $6.67. Also bought a $10 wagos lever nut kit and it worked great!
Huh, my commercial grade (non-TR) are still $2 at Menards for the 15 Amp.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Dang you menards for not being in Florida! Only have the two big dogs and then whatever Ace hardware does with their weird franchises.
@@billythygoat Menards ships.
Thanks for the information
You're welcome
I've been a DIYer for over 50 years and I still learn things from your videos. In fixtures where the bulbs mount horizontally, LED bulbs look lousy because of their extended solid base, so I like the integrated LED fixtures. And their price has come down to the point where replacing the fixture isnt much more than replacing bulbs. Also, I pretty much use electrical tape only for low voltage applications. The key is to wrap very tightly. Much prefer heat shrinkable tubing or Wagos, tho.
Bought an ecx based on your videos and absolutely love it. really enjoy your channel. Thx for sharing. Still using wire nuts though lol
You will eventually come over to the WAGO side 😁 Thanks for the support
@@EverydayHomeRepairs But WAGOs are way more expensive! Still use a lot of wire nuts because I know how. I do like WAGOs when mixing solid and stranded wire however.
@@Kevin-mp5of Not really for DIYers.
I used leviton for everything where I could. Really like the look and feel of it
I had good luck with Leviton over the years as well.
Ive got an old beat up version of the Black and Decker book I usually break out for 3-way switches.
I think it is safe to say that is the most used section for most of us 😂
I used to use leviton but thanks to this channel I went out and got hospital grade legrand for the outlet to my server and computer and all my other specialty electronics. Everywhere else I now use eaton commercial grade. They are good outlets and more available in my area than legrand.
Eaton commercial outlets are my preferred choice. Solid product.
Any tips on wire positioning in 4 by 4 boxes ? Like say it’s stuffed, what’s a good way layout so I can still put a cover plate on
Thanks for teaching. Iam looking for electric codes in Maryland or dc.
Thanks for the great video. Wago 221 has been a real game changer for me since I learned about them from you.
I found some integrated lights that have the power box separate from the light fixture so changing them is as easy as unplugging a cable and putting in a replacement.
Except the few I’ve had fail have all failed in that power box.
Good tips
totally agree on #3. We have a Hunter ceiling fan that was given to us unopened by a family member only a year or two ago. The light is already flickering enough to be annoying. Next work bonus that my wife or I receive is going to be used for a replacement fan that uses conventional bulbs.
I do agree on the Wago lever nuts. Replaced a few ceiling lights recently and it was so much easier than a light I replaced a year ago using wire nuts (which popped loose any time I tried mounting the fixture onto the mounting bracket).
If wire nuts came loose then you didn't install them correctly, don't pre-twist, let the wire nut do the twisting, and always do a pull test on every wire going in, never had a problem, in fact the wire nuts held on well enough that they could hold the light fixture up (wouldn't trust it for a ceiling fan, but I wouldn't trust any wiring connectors to hold an entire fan up)
Do you have a dimmer on the light circuit? If you have an older dimmer that isn’t designed to work with LED’s it will cause flickering lights. Or if you didn’t get all of your electrical connections hooked up correctly in the box for the light fixture that could be causing you problems also.
No dimmer other than the handheld remote that came with the fan. Standard wall switch that we leave in the on position.
Very disappointed in this fan being that it is a Hunter. Looked online for a solution a while back with the model number and discovered this fan has an MSRP of over $300. Sadly, no solution was found.
Your Favorite Non-TR outlet is a commercial grade LeGrand. What is your Favorite Tamper Resistant outlet? Have you tested for ease of plug insertion, Grounded & Non grounded plugs. I ask this, since TR are required everywhere, and Non-TR are not allowed in current residential. Thanks
Not sure on the exact part number but Hubbell does make a better design with sliders that aren't prone to sticking.
Literally de-backstabbed a Leviton outlet in my garage this weekend-brand new build condo and my miter saw’s receptacle was already sensitive to plug/wire angle & randomly losing power. 🤦🏼♂️ “Correctly” wiring hooks around the terminals made it right. Think I’ll be replacing these ~5 garage outlets to hospital grade in no time. Thanks for the tips in your other electrical videos.
Nice! Yeah hospital grade are nice for the frequently used outlets in the garage. Smart move 👍
Re integrated lights: in general these are less likely to fail than LED bulbs. If you buy a bunch for a project, by all means by an extra, but if you’re in a pinch you could almost certainly service one of these with a new power supply or new LEDs as needed.
You talked about self-contained outlets. I have them. Could you do a video on how to change them?
When buying Wago connectors, be careful of the specific size. They sell a series which stops at 14 ga wire, which are fine, but won’t work with 12 ga.
A friend of the family recently burnt part of her garage down due to having a cheap NEMA 14-50 outlet for charging her car. Apparently the cheap outlets aren't designed for devices that are unplugged a lot, but rather for things like washing machines, big shop tools, and heaters. Nor are they designed for devices that are drawing near maximum current (40+ amps) for 8-10 hours continuous.
Last year we got a new house and I replaced every single switch and receptacle, most upgraded from the original 1968 ones. You convinced me to spend a little extra from the commercial grade and I am so glad I did. A huge improvement, and really it is not that expensive, the labor was the hard part and it is better to put in higher quality stuff. I even went for screw less wall plates and it looks so good.
Do they make those screwless plates for non-decorator receptacles? Because the commercial grade receptacles are non-decorator style.
@@aaron74 I got commercial grade decora receptacles. For Leviton they just call them Decora Plus or something like that. If you compare them side by side you can see they are heavy duty and have the good wire screw clamps.
Yes that's it! Very nice.
I do like the decorator style in the home, mostly because the plate is the same for all devices.
Fancy, that type of upgrade is a smart move 👊. You learn a lot about the home electrical just by swapping out all the old outlets.
I noticed your amount of content has decreased recently. Hope everything is alright on your end. Some more ideas if you need any:
- Hydronic heating (Expansion tanks, pushing air out of the system, replacing zone valve motors and circulation pumps)
- Water heaters (flushing them out effectively, changing anode rods)
- DIY appliance repair (personally I've done a lot of work on one of my washers recently)
- Wall/window mounted air conditioners (This is a weird area where I've found the market is very strange. There doesn't seem to be a used market whatsoever, unlike for other appliances, and I've not found much advice on repairing them either. They can be quite expensive so this is surprising to me)
- Siding/roofing
Any recommendations on Outdoor solar Lights for homes and sheds etc?
Legrand is a French company and available in many parts of the world. If you find yourself doing electrical work outside the US, they are a good goto company for quality products.
On those led can lights ( the plate looking one ) I was pleasantly surprised you can adjust tint without buying new parts lol. I put a video on my ig when I realized it but that’s a nice thing to have because having 1 warm tinted light in a sea of daylight bulbs.. not good lol.. I hated them until I realized how flexible they are for different applications,
Yeah, that was a feature that rolled out on a lot of the led fixtures only a couple years back. Pretty handy.
Let’s be honest, the holes in the back of a receptacle are probably the best solution for DYI because they are a simple solution for an inexperienced person. Use the strip gauge and press in - it either grabs or it doesn’t - plus, it’s less susceptible to improper torque, or dealing with terminals. Back stab holes are engineered to handle the load and UL listed for 15 amps. I replaced back stab receptacles that survived over 30 years, non-commercial and even ran a 10k btu window air conditioner for 2 summers.
Personally I use terminals, but I want to avoid bashing this because I think it’s safer for the layperson.
Great point about those integrated LED fixtures. I am constantly replacing LED bulbs in overhead fixtures because 1) they never come close to their claims of longevity, 2) I have those lights on all day long so they might come close but still then need to be replaced or 3) I use the lowest cost bulbs I can find. I do not want to have to replace the fixtures and avoided the integrated fixtures for that reason. I wonder about all the cars now that use fancy integrated LED arrays for such places as tail lights. How much are those going to cost to replace? Used to be a tail light bulb was 25 cents.
Good point on the cars those replacements will be a bit pricey and possibly even hard to get as the cars age.
What are your thoughts on using ferrules with stranded wire? I think it makes sense to use a ferrule on stranded wire (i.e. with a EV charging outlet) to avoid multiple cycles of having to torque down a stranded wire. You are essentially making a stranded wire into a solid wire.
I have a few boxes down stairs in the basment with out wire clamps in the box holes, wonder if just adding the rubber plugs to hold the wores is a good idea ?
The Ugly's Handbook is a great slightly larger than pocket size asset!
Good video. A couple comments.
1. Bryant is just as good as Hubbell and 60% the cost. (Same company now. Hubbell bought Bryant)
2. The Nema 14-50 (I own one. Love it)
It seems like most people should get the 6-50 instead. one less wire inside, and therefore, much cheaper to run the table long distances.
Same charging speed, and also 240 V just like the 14-50.
@@Kevin-mp5of doesn’t matter. It’s not 110/120 is the point !!
Great job! I love the Wagos, but just wondering if there is some concern about them opening up and if wrapping tape around them would be a good idea.
@@Kevin-mp5of Thanks for responding, but I was asking about Wagos. I wouldn't worry about a properly installed wire nut opening, but I am not sure about the little doors on the Wago.
If you are worried about them opening up get the tiny hair tie rubber bands and put one on there. A friend who is an electrician does that and gave me the tip. On the rare occasion he will use one of the tiny zip ties and cut the excess. The zip tie or the hair tie rubber band is easily removable and and doesn’t leave the Wago gummy/sticky. Don’t use a standard small rubber band. Use a very thin hair tie rubber band. They don’t dry out and break like regular rubber bands and are easily removable.
@@ronh9384 Thanks
I had bought some commercial grade outlets with the nice plates on the side which made for way easier installation. The issue where I live though is that tamper resistant is code. I thought that was only for dwellings and not for a garage, but I was mistaken. So I will have to now replace all the outlets in my garage. I am having a hard time finding tamper resistant outlets with the nice plates on the side though. Do you have any options? I'm afraid I may have to just buy the regular kind where I have to make a hook in the wire and go around the screws on the side. First world problems I know, but now that I've worked with the commercial grade outlets I have a hard time using anything else.
With integrated light fixtures that fail it would be reasonable to assume that it's the led that you'd need to replace and led's are pretty simple if you know the number of and size of the led in the fixture and remove and solder the new ones in.
Just ordered a wafer light ....thanks ✨️
BTW Are you wearing eyeliner?👁👁
Hubbell products are available on Amazon. 👍
At 16:55 I wired a male plug to the leads so all I need is a extension cord and something to hang it from.
Ok so I've seen a few videos now talking about receptacles, preferring commercial grade, and not liking or using TR receptacles. Correct me if I'm wrong, because that's what I'm looking for, but NEC 2020 says that you have to use TR receptacles pretty much anywhere now that's within 5.5' of the floor with few other exceptions. So isn't it against regs to even use those in most cases?
Hubbell products are available on Amazon
In the professional world it’s assumed that, well, professionals will be servicing it so you don’t need to wrap. I always wrap metal cut-in’s secured with F-Straps though.
I disagree with the integrated LED light tip. LED lights last a long time. I have LED lights I purchased way back in 2012 that still work. Chances are you are going to want to change style way before LED lights burn out. Now, to your point though, yes, I never thought of that, styles in store inventory expire way too quickly these days. I have 3 of these integrated LED lights all on dimmers in separate rooms. Would not be an issue if I had to change one and could not get same style, but if I had more than one in a room, yea, could be an issue. Good point.
What I’ve learned about all light bulbs is that the quality of the reliable brands like GE does matter. Random foreign bulbs (no matter how they’re labeled) are pretty wonky, they don’t last and also unsafe. Very tempting to bargain shop on Amazon.
Great information. 2 comments- (1) I know you don't like TR receptacles, but I don't see how you can recommend anything else where they are required by code, which is almost everywhere. (2) Conceptually, I don't see why a vendor could not make devices with an integrated back-stab connection using the Wago design, and be just as good as a Wago.
Just a word about permits. When used as a noun like a building permit, it's pronounced PER-mit.
Mazel tov on your achievements. As a rule, at least around here, if a homeowner is doing his own projects, in his own home, a permit isn't required. I am also firm in belief that what people do in their own home, is no one else's GD business, neighborhood association, or not. It's YOUR house, YOU paid for it. Not the "ass"ociation. So don't let them dictate how you run your life.
We have the same situation with these "Warehouses" in our area, never having anything. I don't understand anything anymore. All these places, Home Depot, Lowe's, Menards, Walmart, etc. They have a big warehouse full of CR** and NONE of it is anything you NEED nor want. That just drives me right up a tree. It's especially frustrating with Walmart. I use them because it's all I can't afford, I am a cripple. I make an order online, then go and pick it up and every single time over half of what I order, they are out of. Then, I am riding through these big warehouses like Home Depot, in an electric chair, because I can't walk all that way anymore, and I find NOTHING I need nor want. One time, she dialed something up on her computer and said "We have some in our store in Saint Charles." I said, "This isn't Saint Charles." Either she didn't get my point, or was being deliberately obtuse. I am almost 50 years old and I've never seen anything like this malarkey in all my life. "A BIG WAREHOUSE !" It's like a mantra.
And still I say these LEDS are no good. I also verily believe they're burning out our retinas. Since these LEDS come about I've seen more people, especially kids, with more vision problems than ever before. Our Mother's warned us about sitting to close to the TV set when we were kids. I think it's worse now with these LED monitors we're constantly shining in our face, an arms length away. Not to mention all the radiation from these mobile cellular devices. I use a P.C. but still LED display. CRT if one can even be found, wouldn't work nor look right if it did work at all. Oy vey. As for lighting, the simpler, the better. I like my porcelain sockets (With an outlet) in a metal ceiling box, or wall sconces and a simple screw in E26 base, and a cloth iron cord with a pull chain socket hanging from the socket, if it is a high ceiling. (Fun fact... Thomas Edison absolutely did NOT invent the light bulb) Monsanto did invent the LED. They harm everyone, in every way they could. Now Bayer has take their place. Evil, wicked people.
I always wrap my electrical work, however, not in a plastic nor nylon box, but, if I have a problem with that circuit, and discover a plastic or nylon box, I am going out of my way to get that out and put in a proper steel box. If everyone would do this, Granite City Steel might reopen and there would be job creations. I would also argue that where the copper ground wire is almost always bare, and if it shifts around in the box, you don't want it to spring into a live wire or it's going to short. So a service call could have been saved for a few cents and a little extra time and care now, saves a lot of time and money for all involved, later.
As for wire strippers, I use automatics. I just put the wire in the appropriate gauge, one squeeze, and done. Then I have another set that is specifically for 12 gauge and just lay the wire in, one squeeze, and done.
The only 220 that remotely resembles yours, that I have is for my dryer. And it was not grounded. I had to go out of my way to correct that too. And I will never get an electric car. That is just another ripoff and con that the industry puts onto people with too much money, and rigging the system against those of us that don't have much money.
I also agree with you 100 % about Wago wire nuts. If not for you, and discovering your channel, I would have likely never known about them. I have changed over to them, and even change out ones I encounter, that still have the old twist ones. And when I moved into here back in 2022, I didn't know about them yet, so I have a pack of the old push connectors that I'll put on a fire-stop inside of a wall, that needs a Plaster Master to fix. Like a time capsule. One thought I had about Wago, and what I hope they do, is make ones that it is not necessary to strip the wire. There is "teeth" inside that pierce through the insulation, to make the contact. But moving in here, deciding to rewire, buying push in nuts to seeing you and the WAGO nuts, I switched right away. I purchased a kit from you at your Amazon link, and I am preparing to buy another. Takes me a while to accumulate funds, and if the scarcity and prices of this fuel and fuel doesn't change, I am not going to have money to live on. And none of the people on the ballot seem interested in helping anyone except themselves... So...
Anyway, great video.
Tip #1 still leaves a little more info unanswered. The utilization of NEC by state doesn’t provide info changes without a scale renovation. My example is the outlet for my garage door opener. Variations of NEC list use of non gfi, gfi receptacles, or a “easily accessible” gfi outlet. When my house was built that outlet was not required to be gfi. The next update made it a necessity to be gfi, but didn’t need to be readily accessible for reset. Todays NEC states the reset has to be readily accessible. So I am replacing that outlet and changing from a one plug to a two so can use a smart opener. What code would I follow? I have heard info that unless I am renovating the space and making a large change to the electrical system, then I follow the code at the time the place was built?
Every jurisdiction is different. Just call the local building inspector and ask what the code is.
My house has aluminum wording , what should I do to add a over head sealing light?
Where can I find the UL code for DIN mount breakers and circuits in Plastic boxes or Metal boxes? I bought lots of DIN mounting breakers from China and can work in 120-240AC.
Interesting
Can you use those WAGO 221's on DC wires as well as AC? I have 10 gauge PV solar wire I need to splice.
You would need to step up to the WAGO 221 600 series which can handle 10 gauge. Also if they are outside I would be cautious as there is no weather seal. They do make gel boxes but these could get a bit expensive www.wago.com/us/discover-wire-and-splicing-connectors/gelbox-from-wago?gclid=CjwKCAiA85efBhBbEiwAD7oLQPc2W4Fznsz9fa84RLj60pytGfgh7XzPpL2ZbMlZUqezSqVsTGGwOxoC-QUQAvD_BwE
6:30 I literally had an augment with a landlord stating that his tenant should be able to change out those integrated LEDs. Not the fixture, but the LEDs themselves. He was so hardheaded on that fact.
Are you going to do a video on plumbing also?
Yeah, I think that would be my next sub niche sometime in 2023.
The receptacle you don't like looks so much better than the one you like tho.
Wish you lived close I just bought old house and trying to learn electrical lol
I have a nearly identical non contact tester by Klein and it beeps every time you bump it.
I also don’t recommend ECX screw drivers, had every brand, broke every brand. Carry a #1 & #2 Robertson (also know as a square drive).
Oh man, I am almost pulling the trigger on Wera. They have some nice tools 👍👍
@@Kevin-mp5of only problem is getting a grip on the price tag!
My issue with the LED "can light" replacement is that they don't go dim enough. In a home theater or even dining room, it's especially important to lower the dim to candle light. Think- movie theater dim. Until these LEDs can go that low and that "orange", I don't want them (for those purposes)- save for the closets, etc.
Thanks for the feedback!
I need a neutral in a switch box for a smart dimmer. Is it dangerous to supply the neutral from a different circuit than the one providing the hot in the box? They all end up in the same place in the box, and are not directly involved in the circuit breakers, right? I could use the baseboard trick to solve this problem from a nearby outlet.
using a neutral from a different circuit is against code, dont do it. Just one of the side effects of doing this is you now need to turn off 2 circuit breakers to de-energize the dimmer, so now the dimmer isnt safely serviceable because it's not readily apparent that that is the case. You also have to turn off the dimmer's circuit breaker to de-energize the circuit the neutral is on so you could safely work on the neutral's breaker. It's a huge can of worms.
@@dragonstunna Your answer confuses me. As far as I know, the neutrals run back to the box without traversing a circuit breaker. Thus, whether the breaker is tripped or not should not in any way affect the neutral, however it made its way back there. When the breaker is tripped, there is still continuity from the neutral to all other neutrals emanating from the same box. So tripping the breaker containing the switch should be in all ways electrically equivalent, wherever the neutral came from. But I am readily able to believe that the Code does not allow it, and thus one should not do it.
@@Kevin-mp5of That would entail depriving myself of a device that I really want to use. I am looking for a way to avoid depriving myself of everything, being a modern American.
You can share a neutral but you'll have to use a handle tie between the two circuits. It's almost never the best move these days. Also makes it expensive or even impossible to install AFCI/GFCI breakers on those circuits.
@@Digital-Dan My answer confuses you because you don't really understand what you're doing. When you turn off a circuit breaker, the expectation is all the wires on that circuit are dead. What you want to do is make it so that's no longer the case, which violates code. Neutral wires are not ground wires, they need to be separate from other circuits even if they all end up in the same place.
You say that "receptacle" is technically correct, but Legrand, who makes your favorite outlet calls them "outlets" The 10 pack I bought at Lowe's says "Outlet" on the box.
@@Kevin-mp5of A 10 pack of commercial grade outlets is marketed towards the average homeowner?
Where can you get the WAGOS other than Amazon? I am wary about counterfeits. Do these have an electrical safety mark on them?
Ideal LeverGard exist and are available in some hardware stores, and appear to be much for same thing, but cost more. They bear the cULus mark.
I got mine from amazon, no issues.
@@hippo-potamus do they say UL somewhere on them, or are they the Uk ones?
@@correcthoarsebatterystaple I dont have them with me now, I'll check tomorrow it was the assortment pack 221s. I'll let you know and give you the amazon link seller I used.
If you have a Menards in your area they carry them in stock. With that said I haven’t seen any conterfeit lever nuts that actually write “WAGO 221” on the connector. If there is a “WAGO 221” on the product image it is legit.
I ordered a free sample kit direct from Wago. They have Wago 221 stamped on the top & the UL Mark on the end.
For what it is worth, I have trouble finding commercial grade decora outlets at the local home improvement stores. I was replacing all the outlets in our home - it was easier to just order a dozen at a time from Amazon.
Wago isn't at our home improvement stores either. Another win for Amazon.
One tool I find handy for lots of jobs of varying types is an LED lamp with an elastic band that you wear around your head. I use it when working in dark places (crawlspace), or when doing electrical work (the power is out), or any time I just need additional light. Having it on a headband means that both of your hands are still free to do whatever you need to do, and you aim it by tilting your head a little bit. The lamps I have are rechargeable with a USB plug.
Yeah, those headlamps can be super handy. Thanks for the feedback!
Did you end up finding a good commercial grade decora?
@@juanmarino1754 I went with Leviton 16252.
I never use electrical tape, even in a steel box. The way I figure, if there is a trip due to a shorting of a screw terminal touching the sides of the box, it was not installed right and should be corrected. Plus electrical tape leaves behind a horrible residue over time. I like the Ideal Armor Band product but they're absurdly expensive.
@@Kevin-mp5of To me is almost is like a thing to hide, or compensate for, poor workmanship
You are giving me ideas for future merch 🤔
@@Kevin-mp5of you might see that one in a future video 😂 that's awesome
I can only speak from the side of a renter, not someone who rented to other people (thank God I own my home now, lol). I have only reached out to a landlord when it's something I know I can't fix. Are tenants seriously reaching out for blow lights/bulbs?
When I was growing up, as always fix everything unless it was just too expensive. I couldn't imagine asking a landlord to fix a simple electrical or plumbing issue.
Unfortunately lately more and more tenants give me a call when a light bulb goes out 🤦♂️
I'm a landlord and after a few of my tenants moved, I often find blown lightbulbs in ceiling fixtures. I figure they either no longer cared a light no longer worked, or they were super cheap and saved blown light bulbs and swapped them in after they vacated. 🤷♂️
Hello l am having trouble with the outlet.....l connected the black wire to one side and the white wire to the silver side. When I plug a lamp in nothing happened 😮 what am I doing wrong?
WAGO's are good for ceiling fans solid to stranded connection and junction boxes, other than that I still think wire nuts are king where outlet connections will pretty much be left untouched for the remainder of their life. I rewired my entire house and did 12/2 wire with 20amp outlets all the way, whatever the additional cost it is well worth it in the long run.
Wirenuts are king because they're not-patented and super cheap. They're good for an absolutely permanent splice, like you said. But I'd argue for using Wago to join 4 or more conductors. Better for wire management.
@@aaron74 Agree. I chose to use the wagos in my junction boxes incase I ever add another outlet run would be very simple. I'm very impressed with the Ideal wirenut twister drill attachment really saves your forearms.
@@Kevin-mp5of For joining three or fewer wires I can tolerate them. Basically nothing larger than the yellow or beige wirenut
@@hippo-potamus I pretwist conductors before twisting the wirenut over it. It's technically not required but I do it anyway because it's nice being absolutely confident you have a rock-solid splice
Wago and other similar mini connectors use the same basic connection mechanism as back stabbing receptacles. The wire that's inserted forms a "point" contact between the wire the metal wedge inside. In the Wego connector there is then a second "point" contact to the second connecting wire. That's two "point" contacts through which current has to pass. If you're powering a low current light bulb, no problem. If you're powering a high current load, the point contact through with high current has to pass will heat up resulting in a high probability of overheating and ultimate failure. Furthermore, all plastics degrade over time, especially if there are repetitive thermal events. This can lead to a loss in housing integrity that's integral to the connector strength. Wire nuts form a "line" contact between the connecting wires. The wires are twisted and held together by a metal conical receiver inside the wire nut. If installed correctly, this connection can handle the highest current that wire is rated for and the connection will not degrade over time or at high temperatures. Installing wire nuts correctly is very very easy and results in the highest integrity time-proven connection, other then a soldered joint.
I still can't find why couple of my house lights and the wall plugs not working
Great stuff! New subscriber here. Lifelong DIY, this resonates with me. Just one little problem at 10:20: "Knipex" has a SILENT K.
👍🏻
per-MIT. You don't have to try this hard, bro.
(also thanks for the vid I really enjoyed it)
I’ve been in and around mobile homes all my life yet I’ve never seen these “self contained devices.”
Suggestion for a future video. I have several grounded extension cords from department and building stores. Most of time the cable is OK, but the molded connector ends creates a lot of failures, mostly severe overheating and charcoaling of the plastic. It would be very nice if you showed how to replace the plug and outlet on an extension cord and which are the best brands to use. Thanks for great instructional videos! 👏👏👏
@@Kevin-mp5of Picky Picky, my comment was not aimed at you! 🤔🤔🤔
@@Kevin-mp5of Hey Picky Picky I did not walk into an auto parts store. The comment was not intended for you! Give it up! 😵💫😵💫😵💫!
Just go back to wire nuts. Multiple companies don't allow the use for good reason.