The Most Innovative Outlet You've Never Seen | Full Load Testing
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- čas přidán 11. 04. 2024
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I found this new outlet design at the International Builder Show (IBS) 2024 in Las Vegas. I decided to buy several from Amazon and give them a bit of a test. I was surprised with what I found on the inside and also did a bit of a max load test for 60 minutes to see what the internal temperatures would reach and if this new outlet design is safe for your home.
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If I went over to a friend's house and saw these on the walls I'd think I was having a fucking stroke
this is amazing and I agree.
Hahahaa lmao
A fucking stroke is typically 5 - 7 inches depending on length of the device.
The physical construction of the LIDER does seem non-ideal, but the connector layout is fascinating. The number of times I've had a wall-wart just oh-so-barely obstruct the other outlet would be resolved by this design.
Probably the strongest use case for this outlet. Every once in a while it would be handy.
Why not just implement a standard Decora duplex but with the outlets at the very top and bottom of the cutout? That is to say, 4 to 5 mm further apart than usual.
Actually I could see a use case for a duplex receptacle with the top plug upside down. Specifically, where for space or other reasons, you want to install it sideways.
@@ps.2 I've had some wall warts that are the opposite of normal ones so they can fit with standard wall warts. A design like this would fix both.
Definitely an example of solution in search of a problem.
@bwedesign There was no problem if you followed any experienced electrician you install ground down because all appliance angle cords are made for ground down
@@KE5ZZO /sigh/
This idiocy again.
Appliance cords are not made for ground down. They are not made for ground up. They don't care.
This isn't about ground down or up. it's about getting more outlets in a smaller place.
@@Packhorse-bh8qnBecause of the shared blade, this doesn't increase the number of outlets, it's still only two receptacles per outlet. It is solely about whether placing the plug ground up or ground down, and yes, many plugs where the cord is perpendicular to the plug are designed for ground down use.
@@Packhorse-bh8qn Look at the design again: this doesn't give you more outlets. It's still only two.
Also appliance cords and power strip cords are absolutely made for ground down. Flat plugs, with the cord coming out at a 45 degree angle, pointing down towards the floor if ground down and up into the air if ground up. Or flat plugs with the cord coming out straight down from the ground pin, once again going to the floor if plugged in ground down or going into the air if ground up.
@@KE5ZZO I found one that isn't but all the others I have looked at, including those with GFCI plugs, that's been the case.
Wow! I wouldn't be surprized if they sell several dozen of these outlets before realizing nobody wants them.
They wouldn't sell them if nobody wanted them.
@@HelloKittyFanMan. How'd that work out for New Coke?
Why do you have two accounts?
@@HelloKittyFanMan. They wouldn't sell them if they knew people don't want them😂
They sold some, didn't they, @@rickhole?
This is an excellent review and test! If I saw these, I might've gotten them, until I saw how flimsy those internals are
Same. Good idea, very poor execution.
great take on this. I love how you dive into the component and wish more people did this in their reviews
This does help with the issue of cords with right angle plugs which are found on some appliances. This would allow for the cords to hang from the bottom regardless of how the plug is made, ground on top or bottom.
I could use this behind my fridge. It has a right angle plug, as does the power strip for the adjacent counter. It's an uncomfortably awkward fit.
I think that this makes the most sense for when the plugs aren't going in and out often. If they stay in there most of the time, then we're good to go.
The appliances could even help to hold them in.
Ground on top. Everything else is wrong.
@@alexandercastleberry480 no u
@alexandercastleberry 480 Ground needs to be near the ground that is on the bottom. We are not living in a hospital. Only exception if you have a GFI plug like on window AC units then you need ground up so the wire hangs down. There is no law saying all outlets need to be in the same orientation. 73
Amazing video. Thank you for sharing
Very interesting concept. I don't know if it's a smart thing to do, but definitely agree that the internal design is very much not suitable for long-term safety. Definitely ought to have constant spring tension applied for electrical contacts (and in my world of automotive, also constant tension for hose clamps). Options are nice, but shouldn't be at the cost of long-term safety.
Same. Good idea, very poor execution.
Best information for DIYers on the whole YT ! Great presentation! Love show and tell!
Thanks so much for the feedback.
Great presentation… thanku…
As a statistician, I love that you actually do experiments. Sorry I couldn't help with a new subscription; I subscribed long ago.
Thanks for the support 👍
Been subscribed for years. Best of luck in your goal!
Thanks Ken 🙌
I appreciate the innovative design and capability. Do not accept the build engineering compromises. I wouldn’t want to see these in my home.
Although you only predicted this failure mode (and I agree with the likelihood your prediction is correct), I have zero tolerance for loose fitting AC plugs!
Just cut that jumper and you have two independent hots. So you could not only make one side "switched" and the other side always on, but (after cutting that jumper) you could supply two sets of hot (opposite 120's for a total 240) to have higher capacity at the socket.
(eg: Red to one hot side, Black to the other hot side; neutral to centre - standard 15A times 2).
I think the point of the design is that you can have it as a half hot with a switch controlling one outlet, but then you can just turn the plug upside down and have 2 unswitched outlets. I don’t think I’d ever use one though.
@@matthewlithgow8578 Agreed-ish. They seem to have 2 models, 1 with the hot jumping to the other side, and another without the jumper so one could have switched and unswitched sides.
I can see the appeal of that - as I can for a 240 split version (2 x 120) - for example in the kitchen.
I do this with the usual 2 socket outlets by snipping the tab between the upper and lower hots.
But nothing will fix the bigger problem for me.. there is no spring pressure on the plug connection. Over time that's guaranteed to product problems and I suspect if it's a plug that has lots of things plugged and unplugged into it that it won't be that long before the connection isn't sound.
@@kstaxman2 You're basing that on the opinion of the video auteur - reality may be different.
the build quality of this outlet is junk, but im more interested in the idea of having one side switched and the other always hot.
your idea of 120 and 240 being available at one outlet may also be interesting but i would worry if the wires could handle that.
Really good review, thank you. They definitely look attractive on first impression, but I don't want anything so failure prone in my house.
Yeah, I give them credit for taking a swing at a new design but might need some improvements to really gain any traction.
I wanted a 220v option. Like I could plug in a lamp OR something that that would go hot to hot. 🙃
Combo 120V/240V devices already exist, such as the Leviton 5031-W.
Pretty neat idea using those big Jackery deals to power the setup.
Interesting concept.
Thanks for sharing, hopefully after other manufacturers begin to also manufacture these outlets they’ll become more safe? Thank!👍🏼
Imagine having shuko outlets that can be plugged in both directions
Set gaps is arguable. I can argue the same with the design you love.
Seems like a solution in search of a problem.
It is interesting looking, but I can't see much use for it. I am curious though, how do you get to the screws for the inner neutral connections?
@2:56 pretty clear
You can see that the neutral screws are on raised “rails” so you have direct access to them
@@AlanTheBeast100 ahh, so more connectors. Thanks!
I could definitely see myself using these for switched outlets. It would be nice to be able to use both receptacles as non-switched, and then later on just flip the plug and turn it back to switched.
It could also be handy for kitchen receptacles using MWBC. Each side would be on a different circuit, so you could make sure your high-draw kitchen appliances are on separate circuits without having to move them to a different outlet. Although the plug retention design doesn't inspire much confidence in its durability, so.... Probably not ready for that type of usage yet.
Otherwise, I don't see much of a point to this outlet design.
Only thing I see is 2 90 degree plugs on 1 outlet. This alternated design means you could still fit both on 1 outlet instead of requiring a separate outlet or unplugging one thing when you need to plug in the other thing
At first I thought it was a novel idea, but not one I would ever use after seeing the internal structure. I do think your test results may have been skewed in comparing a residential grade receptacle to your favorite commercial grade receptacle. Better to test apples to apples in a similar test. Love the channel.👍
I think his position is probably that residential grade ones are pretty crap though, so we should all be buying the commercial ones. If these interesting design ones were available in a commercial grade I'm sure he'd test them, but there's basically no reason to buy the residential standard ones, since they're so pathetic and since even at what, 4x the cost to get commercial grade, we're still talking $5 a receptacle.
What I'm really interested in is the Thermal Device you used with your iPhone. I'd go with the more capable "normal" outlet.
Interesting, looks like it takes inspiration from Despard.
you know what i would like. the european switchable sockets (switch is part of the outlet) but with use plugs
And there it is! The Wago mention right near the end of the video. If you're not getting paid by them I wouldn't believe it.
Cool now I can have two wall warts in an outlet like I’m supposed to
@silvercymbal had a video on some sort of similar outlet receptacle
The Leviton QUADRAPLEX which provides four receptacles for a single gang box
These would probably be really useful for DIY extension cord jobs.
Defo don't like the lack of spring force on the contacts though.
This appears to me to be a solution in search of a problem... and it still offers only two (accessible) outlets at a time.
I personally wish one of my outlets had the ability to be either switch controlled or always on based on how I plugged something in. As it is, if I want to charge my phone but not have the lamp on, I need to turn off the lamp by hand. But if I forget to turn the lamp back on, then when I come home at night and try and turn on the lamp I have to fumble in the dark.
I’ve also frequently had an entire outlet taken up by one thing because it’s box was slightly too big to plug in something else with a ground.
Also, most angled plugs have the cord going to the floor, but if I’m plugging something in behind furniture I want the cord coming out the top. Or the cord is angled right and I want it to go left.
There are many use cases for this sort of plug. It’s not needed in many situations, but it doesn’t make it useless. Although a design with better internals would be ideal.
You are so a glass half full kind of guy. I know those who think the ground needs to be up, will find these to be a problem, because no matter which way they mount them, they will have the possibility to have plugs put in with the ground down.
And here I was, thinking that finally someone had proposed a design to let you have backwards compatible 240 V sockets over there on the far side of the sea. The design looks a bit like a certain Italian style outlet but with blades instead of cylindrical prongs. With the two live terminals individually having connections, it even looks as if it could be used that way if the connecting wire is removed.
It would not be the first time something like that was introduced. Over here in Switzerland there exists an ingenious single outlet that allows for either a standard one-phase plug or a three-phase plug.
It should be a voltage choice of 110/220.
Would a person be able to remove the jumper wire from the two hot connections, which would allow for you to wire the plug in a way that it can provide 220v alokg with 110v?
Seems to be an answer to the half baked ground up code, still haven't seen right angle cords configured that way
Interesting concept. I was half expecting them to have each side fed by a different hot, allowing you to choose which phase to use for standard 120v. Or use a funky new plug to use both hots for 240v like it was a nema 6-15.
You'd need to connect this up to both phases though, which requires additional wires that probably won't be there if you're not using a proper 240v outlet.
Having two circuits supplying a single wall plate, even if it is a double socket, is a bad idea. Go to do work on it and not know of the arrangement and you turn off what you believe is the 120V breaker that isolates it and you still have 120V at the overall fitting. You could argue that you should only fit it to a 240V breaker so that both sides are turned off but I think most sparkies over there would rather jump off a roof than do that.
@@retrozmachine1189 You are clearly not an electrician. Duplex receptacles have the break-off tabs for a reason, and it's extremely common to connect the top and bottom recs. to different circuits (such as in kitchens) using a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC). I believe it is a code requirement that any circuit breakers connected to a single device yoke must have tied breaker handles, which solves your safety concern.
@@cmmartti I am a qualified electrician just not in the USA. Connecting two circuits to a single wall plate is something you;ll find most countries avoid, it's not even physically possible with a lot of dual socket plates in most countries. I have to say I'm surprised it's allowed there.
@@retrozmachine1189 It's explicitly permitted. How else would you wire up the Leviton 5031-W (google it for an image), which is a duplex receptacle where the top receptacle is 120V and the bottom one is 240V? Or where one of the receptacles is switched (living rooms)? Or where load requirements demand more than 15A or 20A at a time (kitchens). Or where the top is a toggle switch and the bottom is a receptacle? These are all quite common situations that any electrician wouldn't even blink at.
what is the name of the imaging tool you mention for your iPhone...I could have used one of those this week....
It’s a FLIR infrared camera that works with iPhones. I’ve got one. They work pretty well, but they aren’t giving them away.
@@pchris6662 Thanks, I did a search and found a few. Yep, pricey.. but hey, its only $$...
Interesting. This new receptacle looks wider than the standard receptacle. I assume it will need a new style cover plate for it?
It's a standard Decora size, leading towards why it's so garbage internally. There's no space for this to work properly
Could you get a 220V connection out of that if you put two faces and a neutral in the middle?
That would be a great solution for many things and a compatibility dream for American and European standards 😮
Looking at that design on outlets all over the house would drive me nuts. I get it - for use with bulky plugs, but it just doesn't look right.
Could this be used for a 240v outlet? Make a 4 pronged cable (2 hot, 1 neutral, one ground) to draw from the 2x 120v terminals
I was thinking the exact same thing. It would work exactly like that if you removed the connector between the two hot sides and connected the hot connectors to opposite phases. If only this could be a NEMA-defined outlet, it would be perfect for places where you might want 240v or 120v. But now that they've used it this way, that direction seems very unlikely.
Oh, and for structural stability on using this as a 240v outlet, I would use both ground plugs wired together. Electrically, this should be the equivalent of a 14-20 outlet, I believe.
It requires a double gang box so at that point why not install two receptacles one ground up and the other ground down? If this would have fit into a single gang box it would make more sense.
Nope, I had larger than needed boxes for the test but it will fit fine in a single gang.
Yes but it only provides two outlets, is the point that you can plug in either up or down depending on how you feel? @@EverydayHomeRepairs
@@matt45540
that and the option to have one side linked to a switch (for lamps, Christmas lights ect) and the other side always on.
It would be cool if it was three phase and a special adapter would convert the plugs
those look like a problem waiting to happen. i use the Leviton 1254 4-In-1 Quadruplex Receptacle; they hardwire into a receptacle and give you the 4 plugs safely. plus they come in various colors and 15 and 20 AMP options.
I stick to leveton's commercial grade outlets (3$ cdn vs like 1.20$ cdn for the regular ones)
Here is an electrician's perspective. When I first seen the design it looked interesting like it had potential. After seeing the internals I won't put one in my home. Every outlet has a shelf life, having that kind of slot doesn't have a lot of shelf life, eventually after so many actions of metal on metal it will wear down and since it isn't pushing into the male prong it will be a loose connection. This design also still only allows for 2 items to be plugged in at one so other than versatility you do not gain anything else.
A secondary concern I have, which might be a non issue is the tamper resistant windows. Normal circumstances if there is pressure on one window and not the other the plastic shutters remain closed to prevent a child from pushing something in. If equal pressure the windows open allowing an item to be inserted. Looking at this hybrid outlet that has 3 slots (not counting ground) if I insert a cord end normally in the top right 2 locations, will the top left unused slot still remain tamper resistant or will it be bypassed since something is in the other 2/3 spots? Assuming it works correctly will the extra complexity of the plastic shutters increase the likely hood of product failure?
I like the innovation and the outside the box thinking but I'd rather just cut a 2 gang in and have 2 good quality receptacles side by side. You have 4 spots to utilize, 1/4 can be switched, 2/4, 3/4, or all 4 if you so desire. You can rotate one entire outlet "upside down" and still gain 2 extra spots. Material costs to do this are still cheaper than the cost of one cheaply made device. $2.75 for a 2 gang remodel box, 2 commercial grade tamper resistant receptacles $2.63 each (I use residential grade in my own house-perfectly fine). You'll need about a foot of scrap wire, even using the highest cost HD has 1ft is $1.93 (15ft roll). That puts us at $9.94. Toss in a double duplex plate for $2.11 we are up to $12.05. Compare that to $13.99 and $14.99. Costs would be much cheaper as I was going for the higher quality items, more expensive wire costs. Just a gimmicky product.
Interesting output. Although it doesn't solve the "ground up or ground down" debate. The issue is that if a plug is partially pulled out and a thin conductive object falls down (such as a metal plate cover), a ground down configuration will allow a short between hot and neutral, while a ground up configuration will have it hang harmlessly. But the outlet shown has both hot connections towards the outside and if a metal plate cover were to fall, it would short the hot to the ground.
I have actually had that happen. I was removing a polished brass outlet cover in a house I had just bought, to peek in and see what kind of wiring was in the box, and instead I got to test the circuit breaker. (It worked.)
I can see one potential use for the soldered wire. If the outlet is overloaded and heats up enough to be dangerous, the solder melts and disconnects half the load. I doubt that’s the reason, but it's an idea
What do you suggest for standard duplex outlets with tamper resistant plugs for children’s rooms? Commercial grade preferred but residential grade is acceptable.
Any brand name
Ya the problem is lots of stuff have wall warts and would block 1 or 2 other outlets so it probably doesn't matter much unless you know what you are going to have plugged in and then you could just do a 2 gang with 2 receptacle
I like the idea of having the option of one outlet being capable of both being controlled by a switch in one socket, and not in the other simultaneously... But, honestly, I would probably just use it for a lamp...
This is the solution to a problem that very few people have.
What about shuttering? Isn't that required for new residential (maybe I heard wrong) in some locations?
That is correct, Tamper resistant outlets are required every location I have ran across. This one has the TR shutters built in 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Does the shutter still work on the exposed hole when something is plugged in? That would be interesting to see how that works if so.
Tamper resistant is required for "accessible" outlets. So like the ones behind the fridge, microwave, ceiling mounted, etc. do not have to be. Not many exceptions anymore. When I finished my garage I put in TR for the inspection, then replaced those stupid things with regular afterwards. I don't have kids so I don't care. I've never found a TR outlet that doesn't suck.
Have you considered reviewing an rating Triplex outlets where all three receptacles are usable. They seem to be few and far between available. Leviton once made the AC315
Attaching that receptacle to your wall is like putting a Detonator on C4
It would be nice to use it on two phases, also the soldered wire might be there for user to choose to use one phase or two phases. 3:47
while the build quality of this is a nonstarter, the idea of optional switched outlet for every outlet in the room is kinda neat.
don't know if it would be worth much past that though.
Yuk, I've seen that type of 'socket' in power strips, they wear out super quick, plus they have very poor to no ability to accept a plug being inserted at an angle. The normal leaf type contact will guide it into place whereas the other the prong will tend to hit the edge of that folded out piece and easily damage it. I've seen a few power strips where the prong had hit that little folded out bit, the user sensed it stopping the plug going in, so they pushed harder and kind of mangled it, so not good.
We had a few of these at church, they wore very quickly, and I could here them sparking etc (not to mention the noise in our sound system)
Seeing that outlet is like seeing a picture of a person with 4 sets of eyes, it just makes your brain give up.
The problem this solves, everyone seems to be missing.......one side of the outlet is "always on", the other side is "switched", for lamps or items you want to come on with a switch. This doesnt solve a huge problem but it adds more convenience and flexibility to outlets
All the switched outlets I have ever seen only switch one outlet. So traditional outlets provide that. This just looks like a solution looking for a problem.
All regular outlets can do that too, it's just a matter if you want top or bottom on the switch. You can only plug in 2 items into either style.
I see what you were saying, yeah, I suppose you could put both plugs on the switched or unswitched side VS a regular receptacle. Although on a regular one if you need 2 lamps plugged in you could just use a splitter, not near enough current draw to be a worry and wont likely need to be unplugged very often.
The best thing to do on a new wiring job is to put a dual gang box where the switched outlet would be so you can have 2 switched and 2 unswitched. I guess this new style receptacle would be closer to the next best option. Although I wouldn't use this one specifically, kinda weak construction.
I use Insteon outlets. Two independently switched, manual with button on outlet, and programmable for phone control, scenes etc.
If you don't already know how to solve this problem with a regular switch, a problem that's been solved for decades, then you have zero business saying what you've said.
There is no debate, it is just a preference to follow the a standard or follow a practice. In practice residential receptacles are ground down, but the standard is ground up. Just look at the NEMA receptacle chart.
At first glance I thought this was a triplex outlet. Would be a lot more interesting if it was.
I am not an electrician, but at one time I research the ground up or down controversy and it said it was originally for medical uses. My theory is, if either way is to code, then either way is right. Do you think generally that as long as it's to code, it is mostly preference? I mean for all things, not just the ground.
If it's in a spot where it doesn't get unplugged and replugged a lot It might be OK. I'm thinking behind the rolling counter that holds my microwave and provides service to a window fan in the summer. But TBH even in that application I don't need the up/down ground application as both my plugs don't block each other.
Ground does not go up / down aka north/south as they go east/west always
Im just wondering how much space did it save? As opposed to using 2 receptacles with 1 on the switched circuit. The idea us neat, but probably impractical.
I personally find the European outlets are far better designed than the North American.
Having each individual outlet switched is a cool design.
I was going to comment that, while an interesting device, if it needs a double-gang box, that will eliminate a lot of potential usage (~99% of outlets are probably in single-gang boxes). It was pointed out that it can fit in a single-gang box; it was just installed in double-gang for this demo.
Which then makes me wonder, would that have affected the temperature measures?
Couple things. Are these tamper resistant? If not they are basically useless in 90% of locations. Also with a plug in is the other outside hole exposed? If so I can see that being a shock point even with a plug in it
The one exposed is the neutral side, has no power going to it. Still a potential hazard. Baby proofing options wouldn't work either.
How is it useless in 90% of locations by not being tamper resistant?
@@Eidolon1andOnly You can get shocked by a neutral if you become a shorter path to ground for the circuit.
Has the "TR" on it. Also has it in the model name.
@@RCLapCar Like I said, it's still a potential hazard.
I like the design they just need to fix the contacts and it would be good.
Yeah, the internals need some work.
How about a normal outlet but just more space between them so you can fit bigger stuff if needed.
Not mentioned: It's going to need its own proprietary cover plate since the device is wider than standard decorator (Decora) devices. No, that product is a gimmick in my opinion. Its internals are not robust, and that jumper wire is shoddy. It's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Edit: Looking more closely... does it need its own plate? It seems wider but now I'm not so sure.
just like AFCI breakers. well those are problem creating more problems
Maybe I missed this: Does it fit a Decora wall-plate? I want to put it in a metal electrical box with conduit and a metal wall plate so the included wall plate won’t do.
Yep, it will fit the standard Decora size plates.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thank you
I could see David Hasselhoff eating a cheeseburger off the floor trying to plug in his phone with this outlet. I'll pass on this one.
Personally, I could see a log of DIYers installing the LIDER wrong and tripping a breaker, or worse. And as for the Up-Down debate as well as plug-space issues as with wall-warts, just have the bottom socket with the ground down and the top socket with the ground up.
If its a bad idea he will show you how to do it.
This would have sold a ton back when electronics had gigantic power bricks.
In an alternate universe, we’d have dual voltage receptacles arranged like these, with devices connecting to one or both hots.
So this receptacle is wider than a standard one. Aren't we close enough on metal boxes to the sides? How will that work in multi gang boxes? Now we have to have special plates? I already have too much to carry on my truck. Cant wait to see how many people just hook the black to the hot side on the right and a white to the other hot side.
For the same space, just install two outlets. If one fails, you still have the other. And you only have to replace the basic outlet instead of that expensive one.
The person to design this new outlet must have Eyes are going opposite direction up and down😂
I doubt the old power bar manufacturers will need to worry just yet.
"Do or Do Not ,there is no try"
-Master Yoda-
See how Master Yoda is crossed out? It's because of the second dash at the end of his name. Sandwiching text betwee dashes converts the text font into strike through. Here's a single dash at the beginning:
-Master Yoda
Here's one at the end:
Master Yoda-
And what happens when there's one at beginning and end:
-Master Yoda-
See how it got converted to strike through text?
Can also make *text bold* by using asterisks, or make _text italic_ by using underscores. Can even combine things like to make *_bold italic text,_* or _-italic strike through.-_
Neat, huh?
@@Eidolon1andOnlyThank you. I had discovered the *bold* trick by accident. Now I have even _more_ options.
@@robertthompson3447 To combine them, mirror what's at the beginning. What I mean is to make something like *_bold italic_* do either;
(asterisk)(underscore)[TEXT HERE](underscore)(asterisk)
Or
(underscore)(asterisk)[TEXT HERE](asterisk)(underscore)
So what ever it starts with, it'll end with.
*_-Can combine all three, too.-_*
Hey there!
Just so ya know, the lever nuts are pronounced Vah-Go. They are German and I heard a couple of their reps pronounce it when another CZcamsr asked if it was Wah-go or Wag-go. They said neither, it’s Vah-go. Love the channel btw I do my own “Home Zone” in Indy although not to your extent and not on CZcams but at a local TV station
FYI... Germans have an accent when they pronounce words with the letter (w). you might have heard them say vagoh. but to the English language it's still wago.
@@jonathanmonasterio1075It's a German company so the German pronunciation is technically correct. W is pronounced like a V in German.
@@mae2759German accented English is not the correct English pronunciation.
@@Eidolon1andOnly It is not German "accented" English, it is German, full stop. take a German class already. The letter W is pronounced as a V is in English. It has ZERO to do with an accent, a German accent (which varies by where you would be from in Germany) is *in addition to* the base, standard pronunciation. And finally, proper nouns do not translate in foreign languages. People often do it for convenience, but technically they never do. Your name in German is the same as it is in English, even if there may be a nice, cute, convenient similar one.
@@harpsealSF Don't yaa mean Deutsch? Yes it's a German company, and sure in *_their_* language it is pronounced with a German accent, but we aren't speaking German, we're speaking English, so it's German accented English to pronounce a W like a V. We don't pronounce Volkswagen as "Volks Vagen" do we? We even have a completely different name and pronunciation for their country and language, like German vs Deutsch, and Germany vs Deutschland, just as they have different prononciations of English words and place names.
I wouldn't trust that design for longevity - give me the traditional one you compared it to or Leviton hospital grade outlets and call it a day.
Are you Project Farm's nephew? :)
Seriously, though - solder for power distribution? It wouldn't be my first choice. Surges suck but copper and compression can handle them.
I've interacted with the UL lab in the past and was disappointed.
Project Farm has a great channel. Love what he does 👍👍
With AFCI and GFCI requirements in place, how long before grounded receptacle outlets become optional? The question becomes, ground up, ground down, ground gone?
Like the cassette tape. It came and went.
@@robertthompson3447 there will always be people who buy/use “fringe” products. Digital and CDs largely replaced cassettes, but didn’t eliminate them entirely. Hell, even vinyl is available even if just for the novelty. They may only sell a few thousand of these receptacles in a year, but if they can turn a profit on them, they will.
As for eliminating grounding, there are still conditions under which AFCI/GFCI are not the ideal protection and defaulting to a traditional EGC is additional protection. Grounding is not going away just because AFCI/GFCI is becoming increasingly required. We do see a time, probably not far off, where the main service panel breaker will provide AFCI, GFCI, and surge protection for the entire panel and individual protected circuits/breakers will no longer be required. Traditional service panels will be replaced by advanced smart panels probably with the capability of controlling switching and providing overcurrent protection through electronics and software similar to PLCs that you can control from your cell phone or laptop.
It would likely be fine for most uses in my opinion. However, this product is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Why would I ever swap outlets for this thing? Maybe if I had two bulky plugs that I needed to orient cord up and cord down.
but what does this do that you couldnt already do with a regular outlet?
Can see someone trying to use both sides of one outlet...I can only see danger here. Also: How does this work with an Arc fault breaker??
Just looking at this outlet makes me wonder what's in my coffee...
Pretty surprised that the hot is the one on the sides that ends up being exposed when something is plugged in. Also, I guess they don’t meet tamper resistant requirements…
Just WHY? Only two outlets can be used at the same time.
Those things are pretty wide, like GFCI sized which can be a pain in a 2" box. I'd rather just put in a 4" with dual gang every so often and have 4 full usable outlets. Or enough space for a wall wart and 1 or two other items.
Hello from Florida
Hi Sandra
Hello Florida
Just get two normal 2plug outlets and flip the other one upside down. Easy.
Wall wart power supply bricks? Plug in a power strip and deal with it.
The real worry is with those plug blade slots with NO spring force. Just means that the bigger the blade jammed in, the looser it gets, and then when something thinner is jammed in, alas, it’s loose, sparky and becomes a fire hazard.