Scroll Saw Upgrades EVERYONE Needs To Make
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- čas přidán 26. 09. 2020
- I've been wanting to do this upgrade for my Harbor Freight Scroll Saw along time ago, I've finally bought the upgrade online made by www.pozsgaidesigns.com and it was just perfect. Now no more sleeping blades and my scroll saw experience is more fun. #scrollsaw #scrollsawadapter #harborfreightscrollsaw
Central Machinery Scroll Saw: shorturl.at/at1rK
Adapter for Scroll Saw: www.pozsgaidesigns.com/page000...
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Shot with a Canon T6i - Jak na to + styl
I watched the unboxing video of this scroll saw when you originally post it. It is very helpful that you made this video so we know how this saw has performed. Thank you
1* Punishers California LE MC Southland I’m glad you enjoy the video, TFW!
Thankyou... I have a limited budget.. and I was debating, should I buy this HF scroll Saw or something else with quick change. Your video convinced me that the HF is still a viable option with is upgrade.
I've been working with the saw now for over a year. I've never had a pinned blade pop off the jaw set. Sorry you had that experience.
The reason mines slip out is because I have no strength in my fingers to tight up the knob, so this upgrade made it easier for me. TFW!
Do you have a video on how you replaced the plate?
no so sorry...TFW!
It's been discontinued. And the guy had it priced like $50. And I bought mine for $100. I think I'll work with what I got.
Understood, I wasn't aware it is discontinued.
Get a set of T handle Allen keys......cheap at Harbor Freight.
I got many no worries...TFW!!!
I like your video
the adapters cost more than the scroll saw
naaa not really, but they are worth it...tfw!!!
It is a pitiful situation, and a poor reflection on the manufacturer, when the consumer has to modify a machine so that it is easy to work with. Having looked into the construction of several scroll saws, I have the impression that one manufacturer came up with the design for a - poorly designed - scroll saw, and the others just copied it, because most scroll saws are badly designed when it comes to changing pinless blades, the exceptions being the more expensive saws from Pégas and Hegner, which however cost about 6 to 10 times the price of a DIY-store scroll saw.
You are 100% correct! My lousy 16" scroll saw was inexpensive, but came from the chinese factory completely out of square in all directions (the bow parts are cast from a terrible antimony alloy that is fast to cast, but deforms too easily just as the part is removed from the mold! But with a lot of perseverance and with the help of some small Machinist squares, i was able to bend it into shape, adjust it and fabricate a rigid and solid insert to replace the flimsy useless plastic insert. in the end, it takes a determined and handy person to fight against the poor quality of these scrollsaws, and modify them to be useable, at a reasonable cost.
I agree, but regardless of all the bad that people can shame this Scroll Saw I have had so much fun with it and learned allot. So now I know for sure that one day I can buy a better quality Scroll Saw and I will be not only delighted with it but know how to operate with out no problems. That is the beauty of having a machine that is not perfect you make it your own joy if you make some changes here and there. TFW!
While quite useful in respect to the pinless blade attachment, these copycat scroll saws seldom work acceptably, as they are poorly made in China and copied by perhaps, fifty or more factories, and each one adds their personal mistakes and bad execution points! In my particular scroll saw (VERY similar to yours!), everything was OUT OF SQUARE, so I had to spend almost two full afternoons to actually bend and readjust the damn thing to square it and align it reasonably well.
To replace the flimsy and USELESS, too flexible plastic insert piece that covers the round opening of the tablewhere the blade passes through it, I also made a wooden insert like yours, but found it to be too flimsy too... the solution was to cut several layers of Fiberglass Printed Circuit Board, glue them together with Epoxi to make a "sandwich", placing a thin fiberglass cloth layer between every PCB layer to add rigidity, wet the fibrglasscloth very well with the Epoxi, and press them flat until the Epoxy set; a light sanding of the edge made it fit perfectly tight into the hole on the table, which was NOT truly flat to begin with... So I removed it and sanded it flat against a piece of glass. A final waxing of the entire table surface resulted in a very smooth and flawless table. As it came from the factory, the slot in the insert was way too wide, making it impossible to cut narrow or small parts that kept falling into the slot. My PCB ("Printed Circuit Board") insert is now much better.
Wow! That is crazy but impressive. Are you taking orders? lol
Thanks for the info.