F-150 exhaust tick fixed! Rusted and broken studs on 2010 F-150 with 5.4L
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- If your Ford truck has the extremely common 5.4L exhaust tick it’s a broken stud on the last cylinder. The one closest to the cab, if it’s a slight tick you’re missing one bolt if it ticks a lot you’re missing both. The fix can be easier than you think. This engine was in everything from a 1997 F-150 till the final year which is this 2010 F-150. This is how I fixed mine.
I love the minimum, essential-only fix.
Thanks my dads truck sounds like shit when it starts 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Can you upload the link for these replacement exhaust bolts ? Greatly appreciated
Rock auto. Type in truck details and click on the exhaust studs. If you’re unable to find them you shouldn’t attempt this fix.
Thank you
Is it possible to tighten the bolts (mine arent broken but i think theyre loose over time) without taking anything apart?
@@Rob-z9y rarely do they get loose. They probably snapped. But simply removing the fender liner will let you see if they’re missing or not. And with the right assortment of tools you can tighten them.
@@justthetipgarage5305 Thanks. trying to track down what the noise coming from truck is. at start up its a light tick. after few seconds, it gets quieter but still there. when driving under throttle you hear the noise but not when off throttle. heres vid i made. the sound is specifically from passenger side.
czcams.com/users/shortsQOVepAe4NDc
@@justthetipgarage5305 Also the truck drives fine. No performance issues
@@Rob-z9y look for a broken exhaust stud. That’s my guess. Remove the tire and inner fender well and you’ll be able to tell quick. Or you can use a
Camera or mirror.
@@justthetipgarage5305 thanks, ill see what i can figure out. I was able to see the top 4 bolts... they're intact. I'll have to move camera around and see about bottom 4 bolts. The truck has lived in dry heat climate its life so rust is no factor.
My 2007 5.4 just started making a ticking noise out of now where on start up. Goes away after I drive for a little. Do you know what that is?
It’s this.
@@justthetipgarage5305 I appreciate the fast reply. This is really upsetting because I had just purchased the truck 2 months ago. I’m a broke college student so I don’t have the funds to take care of it right now. Was hoping I just had a loose spark plug. How long do you think I can drive like this without causing any damage?
You can drive with it. Start it up cold and take a look on either side until you hear which side it’s coming from. Then use your phones camera to check all the bolts. If one of the heads are snapped off this is your issue. If you have all your bolts then this may not be your issues. Another common problem is the lifters ticking. In which case putting in some Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer may fix that. Either way you can drive on it. But it wouldn’t hurt to find the source of the problem.
@@justthetipgarage5305 Ok cool. I really appreciate it. 3 year old video and you are still replying to comments. I salute you bro 👏🏾
@@justthetipgarage5305 Just turned my truck on and it’s not doing it anymore. Yesterday was the only time I heard it happen.
The mechanic told me he needs to take off all the studs and replace all the bolts is that true?? Why can’t he just replace the broken stud like u did?
Also quoted me 2500$ to fix it ….
He could but he’s probably just going to do them all in case another broke a week later. Say you took it in. He fixed just the broken one. And then a week later another snapped. Since he’s already in there he might as well replace all of them. My fix is the quick fix if you’re doing it yourself.
@@justthetipgarage5305 so if I tell him I just want the one stud repaired he should be able to do that? He’s quoting me 2500$ for a new manifold and all new studs when all I really need is 1 new stud… id rather just pay for him to repair the 1 stud
You can ask him to. He may or he may not. His way is technically the right way. If you want to you can try it yourself, a new pack of studs is like $6. If you can get the broken one out you can replace it easily. If not you take it to him.
@@justthetipgarage5305 I’m not to handy with that lol,, I’m gonna try and find a mechanic that will just take out the broken stud and put a new stud in. Should be way cheaper then a brand new manifold and risking breaking more studs while taking the others out
Will missing exhaust bolts cause a tick that matches RPMs? If I step on gas tick I speed is increased and it does not go away when warmed up. I see one missing stud I think? on passenger side which seems to be where it’s loudest. I stuck a screw driver in it and it felt like it hit a wall as if the stud snapped in half inside it idk.
Yup if it doesn’t go away when warmed up you have 2 snapped studs. The one you see missing and the one on top of it most likely. If you’re lucky you may be able to drill it and get an easy out in there like I did. There’s no pressure on the studs so it’s just rust you’re fighting. Mine came out pretty easily
@@justthetipgarage5305 ok thanks I’ll try that. If that doesn’t work could I use manifold sealant over the hole until I can get it properly fixed?
Nope. The problem is the exhaust manifold isn’t being held on. Needs pressure to seal it. Some say you should get a new manifold. I used the old one and just put 2 new bolts in there. Little bit of a pain but with the wheel and inner fender removed you can just barely get in there.
5.4 3v tick, clunk or knock sound from engine could also be from phasers or chain slapping from low tension as a result of low oil pressure.
Positive air flow test to rule out exhaust manifold leak and if not exhaust leak then move on to properly diagnosis of timing system.
Did you don’t out?
Any update on this fix? Thinking of doing the same on my 2010 F150. Thanks!
Nick Witte haven’t had a problem with it since this fix
@@justthetipgarage5305 Awesome thank you sir. Just checked mine and top bolt is gone. The bottom one is still there but will probably replace the bolt anyways.
Yea man do it while you can.
could you do the driver's side the same way?
Ma vie en van absolutely. Same process as the passenger side. These studs are known to rust off. If you have the ability, change them all out.
@@justthetipgarage5305 thanks for the reply. Is there a way to know whether it's the whole manifold that needs to be changed?
Ma vie en van if you can look or feel and any of those studs are missing, that’s your problem. The missing stud or studs is slowing the exhaust to escape in between the manifold and head. If all studs are in tact re torque them. If it still ticks you’ll need an exhaust manifold gasket at minimum. But you’ll have to pull the exhaust manifold to get to it so you can see if that’s cracked or not
When you pull it off
@@justthetipgarage5305 right, thanks man!
DID IT TICK AT BOTH STARTUP TEMPERATURE AND NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE?
Cee Los if it just does it at start up it’s one bolt. If it still does it at operating temperature then it’s 2 or more exhaust studs. It’ll be the very back two. Top
And bottom.
Did you remove the manifold, you may have said in the video but my dog won't stop barking
aaron rothe I did not remove the manifold, I was able to remove and replace without taking it off
@@justthetipgarage5305 thanks
How did you get a drill back there I have no room to barley get a wrench
Tight space man you have to get creative. I went in through the fender well for it all.
@@justthetipgarage5305 thanks man
Can you change one stud without taking the other rusted bolts out and the whole manifold off? 09 5.4
I was able to do that with just the back bottom stud. I was able to get a drill bit in there and then tap in
A removal tool. It came out easily and was enough to stop all leaks.
No video showing the tick went away?
It went away, just didn’t get a video of it. This is super common.
@@justthetipgarage5305 Im hearing both the words bolts and studs are they not the same thing that you are mentioning in this video?
They are rusted exhaust studs. I called them bolts mistakenly.
@@justthetipgarage5305 Thank you!!!