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Thanks for the video John, im going to try your fix - where did you get the spring from please?

@1.50 Jesus look at that! looks good for a Ford Transhit that could be at least 22 years old at the time of filming, Normally they are a lot worse than that.

Pacemaker gearbox, John?

Thankyou, followed the instructions and it now plays!!!!!

Thankyou John, should be able to mend my Father-in-Law's CD player now. 👍

I have a 1976 Yamaha XS650C Twin. The carbs are stamped on top with the brand name MIKUNI. Reason for replacing, have issue with idle not dropping down after warm up, so I sprayed carb cleaner on throttle shaft on cable side and bike idle dropped down. Air leak? Are there seals on both carbs? Now many do I need to replace/order? Thanks for the Great Video!!

Thanks John. Very good and helpful video. I have this problem with the cab leaking also. And now I have a park pilot malfunction error and also the Bluetooth mic has failed I'm wondering if these are related to the water leak issue and caused the components to fail. Do you think that's a likely scenario? Edit - Sorry wrong van!! I have a 2017 custom. Found you through the forum.

its upside down

How to repair the belt if it is not available. There are two fixing screw holes for the tray opening/closing motor. The hole is oval, so... ① Loosen it once and pull the motor to the left to increase the belt tension. If that doesn't work... ② Use a file to extend the left end of the hole to the upper left. However, the terminal holes on the motor board also require processing. Furthermore, "TEAC PD-H300 PD-H300C PD-H500 PD-H500i PD-H600 CD-H750 CD-P650" seems to be using the same machine.

Oval dash 944's used lower grade steel. Early dash cars have better quality metal. They had a metal workers strike in Germany at the start of oval dash car production so sourced elsewhere...FACT.

my 944 had erratic idle too. Rough idle when cold, then idling too high when warm. Turned out to be a bad injector seal, but replaced them all.

I really do need to say thanks for this video. You saved me a great deal of effort. Extracting my ICV didn't go as planned, but it was a hell of a lot better than the thought of removing my intake manifold. I fully expected the reinstallation to be next to impossible, but that was actually and strangely easier than pulling it out!

Well this didn't go according to plan! While still loosening the bolt with my ratcheting box wrench, I realized that the screw had backed out to the point where there was no room to extract the wrench. Now my wrench is stuck in there. Lesson to others: Lubricate the screw well so you can loosen it with your fingers as in the video, or else!

I confirmed my ICV is bad. I disconnected the ICV after warming the car up. The bad idling went away. I'm happy to know this is the problem. Thanks for the info. I've ordered a new part and a ratcheting box wrench. I'll follow-up when this job is finished.

Wow, that was great fun with headphones on! Nice one.

That's lovely to watch, I've just put up a bat box, wondering if anything will ever roost there, can see them flying about in the evening sometimes.

Hi there, thanks for posting this as this is what I'm considering doing but haven't a clue what I'm doing! Love your idea of fitting the top of panel behind existing metal. Did you have problem with the edge of door as I'm reading that there are two types, one with lip and one flat seam? Also what happens with door hinge? Am I right in thinking it looks like you have riveted the panel first onto door? Hope you don't mind all these questions if you are still here in youtube world. Thanks in advance :)

Do you know anything about doing the u joints on prop shaft? I believe there pressed in? Can they be adapted to take Normal u joints? Cheers

Same problem and this was the fix, well done 👍, though my magnets where glued down so i made up the distance altering the pulse coil postion

Really useful video. It was a bit mean to blame your wife though

Patience is indeed a virtue 👌

Miss my old transits, good idea with the door trim!

Hi, great bud thx… I’m getting rain water go into the footwell areas… any ideas how it’s coming through can’t work out how it’s getting in!?

Extremely dangerous, these are not suitable for scooters......can you no see the wobble and the fact the front wheel is on the floor and can swivel this way or that . These ideas are bad enough to use on a motor bike .... Dangerous, Dangerous....

I paid £60 for a replacement key. Mine are on so tight the key sheared off. Kwick fit and other tyre places can’t remove them. The videos on you tube make it look easy. Mine are the same as yours. Done up by an idiot with a gun.

Didn't realize the springs were different from front to back. I've a NAD C520i and thought those springs were all the same and assembled the unit without being aware. That may be why I keep getting a no disc error even after replacing the laser and checking all components on the circuit board and not finding any faults. Learn something new all the time. Wow, I should've had a V-8! 😆🤔

Thank you! So, square section belt 25mm diameter, 85mm circumference and 2mm thick. Great stuff!

Been having issues with my bs38 on my 78 for ages and its driving me nuts. When i adjust it to 25-27mm it doesnt start at all but when its at 30mm it starts pretty easy with a good idle however when i take it for a test spin i open up the throttle gas seems to dry up easily and the bike is starving for fuel need to close the throttle a bit so it fills up again. Will try to factor in the play of the pin it seems loose. I hope to get it this time. Thank you and great video

where can i buy new brushes for that model

Thank you for this video I already changed my ICV because I had an erratic idle only when the engine is hot It didn't solve the problem. If anybody know how to fix this erratic idle RPM which goes to 1500 then drop to 700 RPM but never stall.

How did the kit hold up? Is it still going ok ?

Hello John, I step in your video and I really enjoin it, thanks and compliments. I get there because I'm looking for a spare belt for my last purchase, an (used) Teac CD-5. To make a long story short on my case: the tray have no problem in moving in and out. As tray reachs its in position, optics need move up. Well, with the disc on the tray, it did't tilt up. Without disc it (uselessy) works. I removed the belt and measured: considering the intrinsical uncertanty in a measure like that, it looks like 27 x1,5x1,5. In fact it fit loose. I was therefore looking for something smaller, and I am happy to see that my idea fits with your experience and suggestion. anyway, as I had the belt on my hands, my major concern was not only its size, but its shape. I wonder about its square section. In fact the pulleys, both drive and secondary, are V-shaped. from deign point of view, I see the choice of square-section belt on a V-shaped pulley a bit... exotic: the contact is uncertain by definition, pulley V angle is not even 90°, btw. (can't measure but is surely smaller). Since my belt is most probably NOT the original one, I wonder why you went for a square sized belt, if I may ask. I am now going with an O-ring, I ordered a set of diameter testing who's fitting (and working) best. More to come...

Fabulous Idea john ! I've 4 mcguard, like yours to tackle on extremely deep expensive, limited edition alloys... God knows how I'll do it , but I'll try you're way . The paste is the only hope. Cheers mate, Glad you got the bugger's off 👍

Are these Indian kits as bad as people say they are what's the top speed like with these

Hello, what was this grinding noise ? Mine is doing the same...

Perfect, some lowlife broke into my car and took only the wheel nut lock to come back another time to take the wheels. I was getting quotes from £80 to drill out the locks but lets hope this works.

I've got a hydraulic scissor lift the square type that goes nice and high but the trouble is that the starting height is probably about 275mm and it's always a struggle getting bikes on (at least the ones I can't lift) so I think I'll get a scissor lift like you have and use it to jack the bike up and shuffle it along to the other lift. I like the high lift that I have because my garage is cluttered with other bikes and when I have a bike up a height it takes up less floor room. The one you have also has handy lugs welded to it which makes it easy to mount on the garage wall, I'm also planning to use a cordless driver to lift and lower it. Nice video by the way.

This happened to me too, I drilled out the hole the pin fits in and filed down the sides, this happened due to ethanol in the petrol.

Thank you sir, just chopped through my cable on my trimmers maiden voyage 😂 will be trying this Tomorrow 💪

Mc gard is of the devil.

Thank you so much!!

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Valve grind compound was an absolutely magic idea! I removed four Toyota brand wheel locks that were extremely tight with the aid of a 19 mm deep socket and valve grind compound. The socket alone did not have sufficient grip. Thanks for the great solution !!

I may need to do this to my left side carb on my 79 yamaha xs650 with bs38s. I have a definite vacuum leak on it but I'm still waiting on new carb intake boots to show up. I can't determine the exact vacuum leak source until eliminate that part first, then I may need the shaft seals also. the problem is someone stripped the screw heads on the throttle shaft on the butterfly plate, so I'm hoping I won't have to deal with that. is there a part number for a new throttle shaft screws and plate that you know of?

Where did you get your small grinder from and what model is it by the way good job

I’ve got the same wheel locks on but a 19mm socket doesn’t my fit anyway of finding out the right one to get on and removing them?

Thanks for the video, very informative. A while ago I installed 25x1.2x1.2 belts in my two PD-H300 cd-players (as recommended by a repair shop, even though I was skeptical), but after a while these had issues again: the drawer would open and close, but not fully, it didn't provide the strength to make the drawer go fully closed. I have now fitted new 25x2x2 belts, but in my case the elasticity of these belts caused one of the players difficulty with getting the drawers movinf at all (when it had no such problem with the 1.2 belt), the belt was slipping, even after sanding the belt. I managed to get if working again by lubricating the slider areas of the tray with a teflon grease (Robbe 5532, available from RC kit stores). Perhaps the belt will gain grip with some time and use. I would like to recommend to anyone to order a 25x1.6x1.6 belt next to a 25x2x2 belt, so you can see which one works best for you. Not all belts are created equal, and some 25x2x2 belts might be a little too stiff.

a 20mm carb is the standard Lambretta sized venturi which is fine for keeping originality but not a good performance carb at all. Depending on whether you have made any other changes to the scoot like exhaust and engine mods etc you may need to change the pilot and main jets in the Scootopia carb possibly even the Atomiser. See if you can find the sizes stamped on the jets and atomiser and post them.

Just ordered a scootopia 20mm carb are they any good

He's funny he reminds me of someone in torbay scooter club lol