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My brother’s good with the Saabs, too! Thanks for the vid.

I've done quite a few of these. As a matter of fact, I had to go get my son whose car died in the middle of the road. We swapped out the ignition cassette with a spare I had that didn't fix it so I immediately knew it was the crank position sensor. I found it's a lot easier to go under the car to do this. You can barely see it from the top but you have full access underneath the car.

I just cleaned mine- took out, noticed the lube grease melted in the heat and coated the contacts-preventing contact-be careful taking it apart- pictures for guts- and where springs go-(2) 2 with 2 without. clean contacts with micro file or sand paper then re assemble- i removed all old grease, i even lost one of the springs(tiny) but after reassembly- and make sure you do it right- I reinstalled the switch and the atenna- and tried it out- WABAMM it works. btw it is all mechanical- becareful and reassemble correctly and it should be fine: also the covers only go on one way but the dam switch piece (rotates between off-on-run start)can be troublesome to make sure it is lined up correctly.

Why? No one thinking to move DI cassette higher 10 to 15mm. high from engine COVER by used TEFLON insulator. SOtheDI cassette not touch the engine COVER. SO the DI. cassette not so hot.TRYto move DIC higher.

Car finally threw a code p0337 it was having hard starts and would die occasionally while idling when hot. Classic crank sensor symptoms so happy its a cheap and easy fix because I am about to sell this car.

Can I ask you for something? I prob. have issue with knock sensor and I trying diagnose this - can you tell me if on the plug on 6th PIN (which is one under the blank one (left bottom)) if there's voltage? On WIS is written to check if on PIN 6 & 7 is ~5V but I have only on 7th and I'm not sure if they meant 5V on both PINs. The ignition should be in ON position. I would be so gratefull! I have B235E I run it for 10 years and last 12 months was just a pitfall for money. I'm in debt already and have no more energy to pull it further so I'm asking for help. And since I saw this connector at the end of the video, I thought that maybe you would help 🙏

😅引擎在什麼情況之下 要更換這個零件？

Thanks for the video.

Thanks for the video. What exact CPS did You buy? has to be Bosch, or Valeo is ok too? Anyone tried other brands?

For anyone reading this. DO NOT TURN D.I. CASSETTE UPSIDE DOWN. I always stick it right in front of the engine with nipples pointing towards the turbo area, fits nicely there. Thanks for the video.

Did you get to the bracket mounting bolts from above, or from below? There doesn't seem a lot of space to swing a ratchet in either direction.

Hello, Does the starter running with a bad ignition Switch

These aren't going to be made forever. We all will need one sooner or later. I'm going to look into rebuilding these. Just need to learn more about them.

Is this the position/circuit a or b?

Thank you for the video. I ended up taking the whole rod off, as I could not get the bushing in from the side, but it might be because the automatic one is a bit different. Loosening the subframe side is quite easy.

Would have been nice to see how you got the wiring unhooked as I cannot get mine to release either... Other than that, quite appreciated!

How do you determine if this is the issue vs the starter itself failing?

I'm in this exact situation. changed the cps and plugs.. still crank no start. which leaves the most likely candidate to be the dic... not gonna buy the after market one, half price but don't last long as far as i could gather from the net. might gonna try and get one from the junk yard. also wondering if you got an original whether one could fix weld the cracks.. anyone tried?

this is awesome. really shows where and how. gonna go change mine now. thanks.

jizz...! Thanks for your video, at least one know the exact position ( to abuse the hands on) Thank you again!

I think mine might be the same

Are you two twins?? Damn!!! 🤣🤣

well done lads, helped me finding and changing mine

It costs nothing to tell people what size the bolt is

I have been injured for some time now, and recently the rats have invaded! If someone or a company wants to take this away to do a project, it's yours.

Here i am again..... Hopefully wont ever need to replace the new one with the redone old one but here we go :D

Kinda being afraid doing that but it seems that i have to..... This video will help me a lot! Thanks!

It's a T30 Torx bolt. Took me 3 hours, wife helped me as my fingers were too big.👍

Great video man , can you tell me where is the komputer located in that car ?

Great perspective! I'm about to replace the same bushing in my 9-5.

How did you get to the oil pressure switch?

Is there any chance that you will make a video of how to fix faulty seatheaters on a Saab 9-5 2007. You are a wizard as far as I can see. Way more skilled then most mechanics I have seen :-)

After removal, slice the bottom of the heat shield where the screw goes through approx 4 o'clock. Place new sensor in cavity, screw in bolt but do not tighten to allow heat shield to slide from top angle onto the screw. Tighten. This will make installation much easier.

Blimey mate you deserve a medal for achieving that!

That bushing is for the diesel engine. It is a Yellow one for petrol.

Hi from near London:P Just got myself a 56 plate Saab 9 5 2.0 T auto with 91k miles on it, last owner drove it the last 5 years like 2k miles a year only. I bought it off his son in law (the gentleman passed away a year ago), so it was starting with a jump start when I saw it first a week ago. When I went to pick it up same thing, started with jump start, drove 50 miles no issues, stopped for petrol near home and it wouldn’t start. Assuming it was the battery, bought a new one and started. Left it overnight and wouldn’t start in the morning but tried in the evening and it did. Today tried 3 times and started but it takes 1 or 2 seconds before it actually starts to run. When measured the new battery after the first night in the car, voltage was showing 10.6 only. I understand the ignition switch fault can eat in the battery as well as a side effect. I can’t find a new one all sold out (that should tell us something) so ordered an used one off eBay and waiting to arrive. I hope it will solve the issue then me recycle the old one and keep as spare. What symptoms you had? Do you think could be something else?

Good thing you changed the plugs aswell. Never change DIC without changing spark plugs!

LoL i wish i had slim hands and not these sausage fingers would had made it a lot easier for me, btw i have done 100d's of these

Saab oil pressure (safety) switches on Saabs are Traditionally Shit. Most all of my Saabs over the years have needed replacement oil switches.. First one happened when my bought new 1984 Saab 900, on or near it's 2nd Birthday, turned itself into an oil squirter... entire top of the switch fell off. Happily the switches are Very inexpensive, at least when bought for another brand of car. I've fitted VW intended ones from then on in.

ALL... SEM DI cassettes show case cracking above the black transformer. Happily, it's only a cosmetic issue. Failures start when the the White coil tubes start to lose their cooling oil. Green oil on the plug porcelain is the sign of near death. Either the white cyl cracks or the oil seeps out around their central contact. From heat cause reasons. The Aluminum casting is Important as it acts as a Heat sink. And it's not really enough for extended life. Plastic is a piss poor substitute. Seriously unlikely that Cassette was cheaply made anywhere but in Asia. 4 year warranty sounds enticing but then the Vendor likely won't exist next year, let alone 4 years from now..

oil pressure switch (which I presume was the issue) is a common problem, it's located above the starter motor - so very difficult to show on a video with the engine still in the car. Some people say you can fix it by tightening it, but generally it leaks through the body of the switch - so tightening it has no effect. The "sludge" (generally caused by rubber hoses in the PCV system breaking down) only affects earlier 9-5's, up to 2005 model year - after that Saab fitted plastic pipes on the vulnerable sections, so the issue mostly went away after then.

I went through this scenario on my previous 9-5 Aero. The key thing (as you mentioned) was oil usage. I'd done all the usual checks ... PCV system., turbo etc ... but it was using around 1.5 litres of oil every 1,000 miles ... so something wasn't right. The compression tests came back as:: Dry: 15/14/12/14 Bar 218/203/174/203 psi Wet: 17/14/17/16 Bar 247/203/247/232 psi My pvevious 9-5 (52 plate, 2003 model year) test: Dry 225/220/220/225 PSI, 15.5/15/15/15.5 Bar turns out (in the end) it was valve guide wear. This lead to oil leaking into the cylinders and gummed up one of the oil control rings on no.3 piston (hence the difference in its' wet and dry readings). I paid quite a lot to get the cylinder head refurbished, along with timing/balance chain kit replacement (mileage was roughly 145k and the timing chain tensioner extension was around the maximum recommended ... 15mm?). But once the work was done, oil usage went to pretty much zero. I also noticed that the oil took a lot longer to change colour once it had been changed as well. But as mentioned, it wasn't a cheap fix ...

Did it work ☺

Still driving saab=)?

It has been over two years since I did that video, I am glad to report that the sump and CAT are free from oil.

That "TWR Receiver" running at 433.92MHz is for the remote central locking. That's the part that actually receives the signal from your keys when you lock/unlock the car. The frequencies used will be slightly different depending on country,

Would love to see a update

I am very interested to know what sort of Ignition Switch you have in your Saab 9-5?

Wearing a vest and gold chain like a G and scared of spiders lol

Thanx for the video man! Changed my CPS yesterday with success 👌