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Hi also, these are kind of standard Stanley knife blades. Although these are off brand, they all come with these holes, as far as I know. You can get them in ever DIY store at the utilities section and probably also in Carpet stores, since they find a lot of use in laying Carpet. Be aware, new ones are razor sharp. Therefore I rather use the already blunted ones for this.

I rather hope you are joking to be honest. 😁 Given your research surely you must know that there are several ways to wear NATO and zulu straps, apart from the classic intended one. This is MY method, which provides some extra comforts for smaller wrists like mine. Please explain to me how that is wrong. I am dying to know what I missed out on.

@buying_Time If only I could show you via a photo then all would be clear!!!. I don't think you have the facilities between your ears to understand otherwise.

@@ROLEXLOVER123 well, don't hold my tiny brain in so much suspense then. Why don't you make a video yourself on CZcams to help deplorables like me? I will even let you post a link to it here in the furtherance of eternal knowledge. Please help me to expand my puny existence. I implore you.

@buying_Time The Zulu is installed incorrectly - the point of the double rings is for the strap to pass through and then back loop over the second ring and out through the the first like a D ring buckle - that way if the gets snagged on something the stain is taken up on the strap part that passes under the watch instead of snapping a spring bar off the watch. This is the total point of the Zulu strap and what differentiates it from a NATO strap. I doubt you understand.

I've tried to add a link to a reddit post which show exactly what I mean but it will not let me. I've tried my best to describe it but even when I read what I've written it sounds rather complicated but it's not.

Hi, can you specify what you mean with that question? I don't really get what you are after.

watch bands.... is it called U shape or N shape? can u provide me with link where do you buy it? the rubber one

Hi, I don't know wether I understand your question. In a new watch I would prefer stainless steel over alloy every time. I don't know the company "HMT" however, but for 200 dollar for a new watch, I would expect stainless steel. These watches however costed me far less. I got them severely reduced for about €20 on Amazon, where normally they cost more in the range of €75-125. Last time I checked, the brass-case one was about €100 for the European market.

Would also like to know how to remove the pins. Are they spring bars on the original bracelet? Straight pins? If straight pins, which direction should the pin be driven out?

On my Seiko they turned out to be pins not spring bars, you reach through an opening in the back with a flat screwdriver, lever a notch to start the pin coming out, then pull the rest of the pin out from the side with a pair of pliers. The direction was marked with an arrow. @@jlomein

In this watch and the other watches I have in the classic seiko5 line up they are spring bars. You can push them in through the holes on the side or reach them as normal with a spring bar remover. Either way is possible.

Yes, to my knowledge it still works fine, but I haven't been wearing it much. I bought it more as a novelty, also very cheap (€18?). I found a store that was clearly getting rid of stock, because it had ludicrous prices (this one was on the more expensive end). I have been wearing other guanqin watches a lot more. So far no problems. I advise you to look at it carefully on first use though. Quality control has been quite fast and loose in my experience. I kept some 'less fortunate' watches, because the 13 or 14 Euro were not worth the hassle.

How do you mean?

You mean that my reflection in the crystal is pigeoning? This is the first time I noticed 😂. Can't explain it though, maybe my phone is in the way of my line of vision. I do have a very basic set up.

Which do you mean, I show several.

No, alloy doesn't rust easily. In fact I don't think it will rust at all in the sense of brown Iron rust. Wether it oxidizes would depend on the alloy, but I don't expect problems with that as well. I kind of expect most used alloys as oxidation proof as stainless steel is. In fact stainLESS steel also rusts to a degree at a certain time, at certain exposure, although 316L has a specifically rust deterrent composition, because it is meant for high corrosive environments, like the maritime applications. There are quite some metals that can be used in alloys that make it very oxidation resistant and alloy plated watches in itself have a quite renowned history as far as I know. Thing is that not all those metals are anti allergenic though. I mean nickel has good corrosive deterrent properties, but although I am fine with having it in coins, I would avoid having continues contact exposure against one single patch of skin, although most people don't develop problems with that what so ever. If you could get info on what alloy and base metal is used and it's properties that would be nice. Very often because of skin contact a stainless steel case back is used on alloy watches. Yet if you are prone to allergic responses I would avoid. If not follow your heart.

I just saw that I had a much more elaborate response to a somewhat similar question elsewhere in the comments. There are not that much comments, so I am sure you will find it.

@@buying_Time thank you for sharing your knowledge man. Appreciate it.

I would say stainless steel is more durable: 1. Alloy almost always is chrome plated which means, that if you scratch it deep enough, you can't just sand or buff it out. I can refinish the surface on stainless steel watches quite easily, but I would never even try that on chrome plated. 2. Chrome plating will probably wear and might even chip and flake off as the bonding between the different metals weakens. 3. In 316L steel alloy (because ultimately stainless is an alloy too) you know what metals it is supposed to contain, whereas with plated alloys you can only guess by the allergic reactions you might be building through continuous wear. Since these cases also tend to be a lot cheaper in the making, I guess chances are higher something non skin friendly might be hidden away underneath the plating. 4. Mismatched colours of metal parts in aftermarket straps and bracelets also can be an annoyance. With regular Stainless steels you know what colour and hue to expect, wether it is part of the bracelet or the case. It will match well. Plated alloys have some kind of blueish hue to them instead that might stand. 5. I am in no way a metallurgist, so someone correct me if I am wrong, but I could see that combining metals of different compositions in contact with each other (bracelets attached to casings for example) could lead to electrolytic corrosion. 6. Chrome plating is less crisp in design. In stainless steel the lines can be cut razor sharp by CNC. I expect that alloys on the other hand are often castings from a mold. Even if the casts are well sanded afterwards to get rid of artefacts and ridges, the chroming process afterwards will make the shapes more rounded off. These are just the things that spring from the top of my head.

Just a small add-on: Corrosion of the alloys involved depends on what it is made from. It is a myth that stainless steel doesn't rust what so ever. 316L has quite a high tolerance against rust due to its composition. That is also why it is used for maritime applications. That said every stainles steel is vulnerable against bases like chlorine (although swimming pools probably don't do much damage to your watch), so avoid those. Also having stainless steel in contact with hardened/ carbon rich steel can lead to rust. It has to do with what makes the metal corrosion resistant. Most of the time it is a rather impenetrable hard layer of oxidisation/rust itself that protects from ongoing oxidisation by closing the metal off from the oxidiser. If this layer continuesly gets damaged oxidisation can prevail and worsen, building rust in the process.

@@buying_Time This has been super insightful. Appreciate you taking the time to respond in such an eloquent and concise manner.

Please explain what you mean with aggravation in this context, I don't understand. do you mean it is too complicated for your liking? If so I think this is a hansom and comfortable way of wearing a the watch. Why do people wear shoes with shoelaces if you can have Velcro?

@@buying_Time Sorry no offense intended. I just don't like the look of nato straps. So seeing how difficult it seems to put it on makes it that much worse for me.

@@garyd599 no offense taken. I just didn't understand, assuming you were interested in these straps. I can give you some reasons why I wear them. 1) I like the color they add and how they look on most watches. 2) they can be very comfortable and have a good fit on smaller wrists like mine, with which wearing a watch can become aggravating of its own very quickly and 3) they offer quite some security..

Most of the time some kind of brass is used, so it will appear with a copper pink to yellowish marking. I could see how this material is preferred on watches with a rose gold coloured Ipx coating.

De nada.

That is true. Mine jumps a tiny bit forward on pushing, to only run a tad behind afterwards. My other PD watches with the same VK movement do the same. Thing is though my seagull 1963 has the same issue with jumping forward. It must be an mechanical thing and at entry level costs I don't mind that much.

@@buying_Time thank you for taking the time to check these anomalies

Already have at the same time: czcams.com/video/pIYm9ChtkDE/video.html

You mean the crown wheel? That is the wheel with which you set the time by turning it. The pushers are just there for the stopwatch. With this watch you first have to unscrew it though, since it is a screw down crown, that helps prevent getting water in that way. The shield itself is just the brand logo, signed on the crown. It is just estatics.

Yes it is, although it is faux/printed and every dial on these watches have the same lines, whether they are blue or silver white. That doesn't bother me though, but it might be good to know.

Wait till you see the ones with diamonds in the rotor! Although I don't know whether these are still in production.

Thanks for the suggestions! The Guanqin really is an interesting watch, the tungsten bezel is surely a nice feature, especially when you also wear a tungsten carbide ring on your opposite hand. The see-through Caseback seems to be acrylic and the heavy colourful AR(?) Coating on the back is on the outside, so not much in the way of scratch resistance there. But like an Armadillo it is protected where it matters. The one in the vid had a bit of a problem though: it had a very stiff crown operation. When I took the movement out it turned out that there was an excess of glue residue on the stem. Having that scratched away it operates much smoother.

Hi, it is not a Komandirskie. It is an Addiesdive my-h9. Look for a bit more info in the description.