Video

i will try to get to it soon.

czcams.com/video/KOlAao5iYeQ/video.html

I will tell the new owner... who is putting this very late production 12volt 8 horse motor in an Eagle he is building.

Yes it is ! You can contact me via its Facebook Marketplace ad in N. Cal.

Doug *B*l*M*P*B*O*YAT*S*O*N*I*CDOT*N*E*T*

Hi. I've decided not to purchase a bike right now. Much luck to ya!

nice story

thanks all the airplanes I rebuilt are still flying. The squeeky chair weeds out the drifters.

well you told me to test it, and I was cock sure and didn't. anyway it is fixed till next time. Now I have to replace the Petcock It always leaked a little...so it was junk when it was new I guess. I bet I get to remove and clean the carbs next ! I will drain the float bowls, flush with clean gas, maybe remove and spray the idle circuit first,

which fuel line ? internal or external. it is metric size... stock bmw...ask them.

Thanks for your response, I was asking what size fuel line you're using for the rubber isolation damper work around.

stick to your original understanding, the frequencies you are comparing are the same when there is NO tone caused by dis-similar frequencies beating against each other. Hence Zero Beat . When working CW... you do this with your bfo OFF. The receiving station adjusts his BFO to create the tone he wants. The VFO manual will explain how to set the calibration for each band. Follow the sequence and instructions given, step by step including how to place the indicator on the dial string. Sometimes it is necessary to slightly bend tuning capacitor plates to achieve the best tracking. It is not a digital device - so a few kcs off may be the best you can get somewhere on the dial. Keep juggling both ends.

This is a full fledged 602lb motorcycle that demands full fledged motorcycle skills. If you need a scooter you are confused by the looks of the PC-800 and need to look elsewhere. This is now 34 years old, and now demands a skilled enthusiast rider/collector with mechanical skills, or deep enough pockets to pay an independent mechanic to maintain it. For that kind of rider it will give long happy service. An appliance rider will abandon it at the first hiccup.

Judging by you other comments... this is not good fit for you. It is a full fledged 602 lb motorcycle - not a scooter in any way shape or form. It wants an experience owner.

That's a good thing to know ! Thanks Nathan.

@@captlarry-3525 The wire connections are solderable underneath the crud that built up. Getting the right connecting hose seems to be a problem. Mine is 9mm at each end and about 220mm.

Thank you...

good luck !

Allan... if you watch the series of video about my repairing this TenTec Titan II amplifier - of which this is a small exerpt-... you would learn that there are TWO interlocks. The first you can see me flip up with my finger in this video...it is a hinged weighted mechanical shorting bar... normally help open by the lid... with the lid off, it directly shorts to ground the b+ where it passes through the partition between the power supply and the PA. compartment. In addition you can see a white clip lead. this is shorting a micro-switch which controls a relay which disconnects the primary of the transformer when the lid is removed.

You can't always test a circuit properly of its dead. Sometimes it has to be live and in operation so and you just have to know what you're doing. If you're not sure you're competent not to kill yourself then you aren't. There's no way to protect people who are incompetent. Companies try to stupid proof things but is that really fair to go against natural selection?

ditto but retired. I think you just said everything I said in the video.

I used to buiild DIY electrostatic speakers so I've handled high voltage audio signals and bias supplies. You'll learn pretty quickly not to move the panels while music is playing, despite powder coating on the stators 😅

Yes, especially radios with printed circuits, when there is no pictorial to show you parts location. The wires which connect various boards can be very difficult and tedious. That is why having the good radio is such a time and mistake saver. When the radio is one you have worked on often ( Valiant, DX-100) and tend to be straight forward anyway, it is easier.

tomorrow.

EuroMotorElectrics.com www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1805.htm?searching=Y&sort=7&cat=1805&show=60&page=1

@@captlarry-3525I see the little rubber spacers on that page too!!

Now that it has quit raining.. I will put the seven panel needed to replace the battery...and give it a test drive. Running with a good battery jumpered seemed to eliminate most back firing...charge voltage is 14+ so I think we will be ok. I will inspect all the vac lines . I am tempted to pull the level sender and use a pump to empty the tank for inspection. Never been any signs of contamination.

well, it's easy to pull, and inspect, see what you've got. those rubber gizmos are probably toast by now. The pressure regulator/filter might be due ?

I love this. No way to contact Slipclutch,but he has extracted my contact info but not replied.

@@captlarry-3525 Im still interested in the bike. How can I contact you?

crud in the fuel ? take a look at my fuel pump video...it is very easy to remove the pump and clean out the tank, test the pump. Then you can flush clean gas through the system...and get it going.

let me review your videos of rebuilding a really bad valiant..so I can learn...where would I find those ?

what "cage"? what are you talking about ?

I agree, I am very lucky to have it... and even luckier that the tube is very good. Apparently this is one of the cleanest linear amplifiers ever offered to hams, in terms of IMD products. I should have made a video of it in operation. The sum total of the actual maintenance on it so far has been cleaning, resoldering the plate connector, visual inspection, and giving a whack to a balky relay on the main power control board. I am now experiencing some HV arc-over, so have to get it on the bench and find out the cause of that...likely something simple.

@@captlarry-3525 I started too late in HAM radio, to have much of a collection, I'm 75 now and got my license 4 years ago.

Power supply Repair Video Going Up Today...

I think I will likely sell this one when it is done. I have a tentec Titan II...when I run it I do so at 1000 watts... my sb-200 running at 500-600 seems to be all the power I ever need, for the way I operate. This one will have all new Harbach PS and soft start, can't vouch for the tubes yet.

@@captlarry-3525 When you get ready to sell let me know and perhaps, we can do something. I usually run in about the same power range as you. I have an Amp Supply LA-1000 and an Ameritron ALS-500m that I run on a 100amp Power-Max mobile home power supply. I realy don't need another amp, but when I was a kid, I was fascinated with Heath Kit. Keep the videos coming and your channel will grow. 73's🎙KD9OAM🎧

luckily it is easy to test and easy to fix.

I was hoping it would be useful... I learned a lot figuring it out !

Kaze, Thank you so much. a small ( 20 foot) shipping container goes between England and California for about $2000 USD. I suggest you find some friends, buy several bike you want here, and ship them over. Don't know what the VAT situation is there coming from a non EU country.. but you would not have to pay sales tax here if you export it.

when I had bmw's with bing carbs... I really had no problems...and very easy adjustment. The problem comes when the carbs are difficult to acess. Constant velocity carbs are very reliable. Today we are seeing problems induces by ethanol.... which absorbs moisture from the air rapidly, creates gum, and it corrosive to some alloys. In comparison Aviation gas (which is mil spec) remains good over 10 year periods. So we are having our machines degraded and disabled, by crap fuel... which also gives 20% worse gas milage. So in a futile attempt to reduce emissions, we are increasing fuel use and carbon emission by 20% and causing carburation problems that result in engines running worse.. and making unneccssary emissions. There is no doubt that we can now achieve optimum mixture and minimum emissions over a wide range of temps,and altitudes using fuel injection. However there are still engines meeting EU tier 5 standard using carbs... they do offer great field serviceablity. But in America...as long as we have ethanol..they require the owner to either drain them when layed up... or keep running them and never letting the fuel get old. Regular use solves these problems... IF you can find Non Ethanol Fuel.. Use IT !

I try to keep ethanol free gas in my bikes, especially in the cold months when I might not ride as much, but one of the things like about fuel injectors and ethanol gas is you have to ride them often to keep them running well, so I try to ride as much as I possibly can! It's tough with 5 bikes tho...@@captlarry-3525

pretty sophisticated motorcycle under the skin. If it were fuel injected, people would be clawing each other lining up to get one. This version of the engine with hydraulic tappets and dual ignition is a cut above the NT-700V and other similar hondas.

Agreed. I appreciate most Bikes, but I could be happy with many of these older models.@@captlarry-3525

you know I would love for you to have it.

@@captlarry-3525 What a lovely thought 🙂 Unfortunately no realism due to: 1) Currency rate US$ vs NOK is really bad. 2) On top of buying price I must pay for freight and then toll on both bike and freight. 3) I need a speedometer with km/h to get it street legal. 4) Working out how to get it safely and inexpensively to my city (Bergen) in Norway. But the thought was very nice. Would create an extra bond between us (we already have the Fisher bond). ;-)

Byron, haven't needed many... depends on what it is. Airfilter came from Honda, oil filter is a Napa Gold, Tires on-line mounted by Cycle Gear, coolant hose was used from ebay. AGM battery off the shelf. I think I bought a carb overhaul kit s on ebay, some places like Partzilla have some OEM parts at very high prices... might have gotten jets there. I haven't needed fuel pump or alternator, but the choices there are either after market or used. I would have zero qualms about using an aftermarket fuel pump. Guys use larger alternators from another model honda V-twin if they need one... or aftermarket has them from cheap chinese to american. I think I would just rewind mine with heavier wire.. but mine works fine ! right now lots of these bikes are being parted out... so it is a very good time to buy and stock parts you may need in the future. In england they make a lovely set of new cooling system hoses... close to $300 but first rate. I see whole engines being sold for a few hundred bucks... and sometimes whole used(dead) bikes under $1000. So for the real long haul 20-30 more years... getting what you want now is wise. On the other hand I expect mine to go another 100,000 miles with no big mechanical difficulties. Where do you live ?

@captlarry-3525 dallas tx, I'm looking for carb rebuild kits, and fuel petcock

you can find the carb rebuild kits ( jets, gaskets and diaphram if you need it) on ebay. The only source for the little emission control diaphrams on the side will be used parts. It is a pain to remove the carbs...but a good cleaning, setting the float level correctly, and getting the idle mixture adjusted right... will probably take care of most problems. I have one intermediate jet that has been consistantly annoying...and I will probably break down and get them on the workbench this winter...and put an end to that! I was pretty agressive running carb cleaner through the carbs... doing as much as could be done without taking them apart... I think there is a simple kit available to rebuild the petcock... which I would alwayd do rather than install a Tee instead. Its a safety thing...but the tee is simple .

they are helmet locks

Take the box off the back as shown. Do NOT TRY TO SKIP OPENING IT UP ! stop the video at 9:31 Is your ceramic switch installed backwards ? Are the contacts and wiper burned up from HOT SWITCHING? That can cause the problem...and is about the only thing that can go wrong. There will be Visual and electrical cues in the unlikely event of a failed SO-239 connector .Simple ohm meter testing will let you follow the "signal" through the switch. The resistance should be too low to measure, less than .1 ohm. disconnect an so239 from the switch and apply a high voltage (100-300 volts) to the center pin only, and see if you can measure leakage to ground with a volt meter. Reading must be ZERO. If none of these problems exist... are you tuning it wrong ?

@@captlarry-3525 Thanks for the reply. If o didn’t mention it, it used to work but it’s been in a box for many years unused. I’m trying to get it back online. I've never used the tuner with an amplifier so doubt its been burned that way. I haven't even tried transmitting because the problem I'm seeing manifests itself when receiving. I haven’t even tried transmitting or tuning since it’s apparent there’s some major problem when just connecting the tuner to the transceiver. Here is to what is something I found while troubleshooting: When I connect the antenna to either the coax 1 or coax 2 so-239 and then: while connecting the tranceiver to the input so-239, when the center conductor of the patch cord coax touches the center of the txiever so-239 I can hear signals. As soon as I connect the shield to the tranceiver so-239 the signal goes away. That is, as soon as I screw the sheild onto the tranceiver it's like it shorts out the coax and all the signal disappears.