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Your door panel came out really nice! I had to laugh a few times, I rebuilt a few door panels on my 68. I also had to rebuild part of the arm rest frames. It was so frustrating as you know. After I got them reinstalled I have kicked myself because I realized I have a few window sweeps that are in not so good shape and the door panels need to come back off to do that job. Live learn and try to recall what and how it works. You are doing a great job and I still enjoy all your videos and commentary.

I have a question. I found a vacuum leak behind my carb. One comes from the vacuum tree from the carb and the other from the carb. The one in the middle is missing. That’s a port that is pulling vacuum but I don’t have a loose hose that I can find.

Great progress! Door Heater control AM/FM. Tunes! Sounded great.

Great job Vic 👍

Nice Job! Same thing happened to me on my '78 Lincoln years ago. I went ahead and replaced the other bearing while I had it up on jack stands. Shortly after I put it all back together, the u-joints went out on the drive line. Go figure? One of the better decisions I made was having it balanced while it was out. What a difference all the way around. So smooth and quiet.

Howdy Victor!! I think the backing panel must been like a Masonite that you should be able to find & just cut it using that old one for a templet! The whole thing about "re skinning" door panels is enough clamps & good glue & a lot of patience!!!! Big bear hugs from Kenny in Ohio!!!!!!!!!!!

The panel looks good. Since that one was the most rotted you can just consider yourself done. I have replaced those rubber windlaces by drilling new holes and using small diameter wire. It had to be a helluva stapler back in the day to shoot through two metals, which it did. As you know a driveshaft noise will be 3X the frequency of a single wheel noise since the shaft is turning nearly 3 times for every wheel revolution. Hopefully when you get the driveshaft checked it will help isolate the noise. You are getting there...don't lose hope. Lol

Don't beat yourself up, the door panel looks quite good. I think that you did a very good job, especially considering that you did not know what you were doing! 😂

Ford made an FM multiplex adapter for Lincolns in 1968 and 1969. It was a small box that fit on the transmission tunnel. Not sure if that unit will work with a 1967 radio. I think the adapter had two extra stereo channels and just plugged into a jack on the back of the existing mono AM/FM radio. You can occasionally find them (and the manuals for them) on e-bay. It appears as if there were minor variations of this adapter available for other Ford models but that their primary usage was on Lincolns.

You probably know this, but there is small FM sender units you can plug into your phone, set the fm frequency, and then receive music from the phone on the car radio after tuning to the set frequency.

Howdy Victor!! Do you realize that you just said, "It's the 24th of February?" That's something I would do! Slow & steady will get you to the end!! Big bear hugs from Kenny in Ohio!K

I've been following your progress on this wonderful car since the beginning of your journey. You've not only motivated me to get things done on my car (1970 Grand Prix), but you've saved that Lincoln from a questionable future. Thanks for a great channel. Happy Memorial Day!

Just getting the radio sorta rehabbed and installed is quite an accomplishment so you're doing well. I have cleaned/redyed reworked door panels but I have never tried to remove and or reinstall the vinyl covering so you are in uncharted territory!

Catonsville

Hi Victor, I have a 67 convertible and thoroughly enjoy your videos! I have extremely limited mechanical competences and am desperately looking for a mechanic in Maryland. Would you happen to know anyone? Thanks!

Good news on the ATC box. Tony must know what he's doing. Also lucky on the radio.

1/4" ABS plastic sheet would make great door panels as its waterproof!

Excelent resto!!!!!!!!

Here are a few checks you can do. Press the brake pedal. You should hear the brake release relay click. Its the one with the black/orange and blue/white wires. This relay works the opposite of all the other relays as its normally closed at its resting state and its also connecting a ground and not a hot wire. When you hit the brake pedal, the relay energizes and "disconnects" the ground to the servo. If this relay is not grounded properly or not working, neither will the servo. The other one is the holding relay. It should energize when you press the dash switch. The dash switch is actually 2 switches in one. Check for the usual dirty contacts there. Looks like some of the system is working because you can get the dash light to illuminate when you press the stalk button. Nice work as always!

Howdy Victor!! You can change over the door panels in green. When you decide to paint the car, you can get spray dye to change the interior to black. Much easier than trying to replace 90% of the interior! Big bear hugs from Kenny in Ohio!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The cruise control is one of the most complex controls in your car. You're just going to have to get out your Chilton's diagram, study it, then pick weak points that might be responsible for it not working. Blinker off/on switch? Brake switch? Connections? It's a puzzle for you to solve I know you can do it! Put your black door panels on for a bit and see how you like them? Exhaust looks beautiful!! Ford purposely designed the window motors with a default weak spot with the rubber then plastic motor gear because people, children in particular, always have a tendency to push on the button, whether it's rolling down or up and overextend the motor so this was an easily replaceable less expensive fix rather than burn the motor out. My very best to you on your continued progress.

So pleased you went with the welded exhaust system. You won't be sorry. Take advantage of those door panels and danielutyz 1604.comments. Nothing wrong with black. "It goes with everything". I transformed a beaten-up "65 T-Bird years ago the same way. Seats , door panels from a wrecking yard, new carpets from JC Whitney, and 20 + cans of interior paint for the headliner, dash, and other trim pieces. It turned out great. I find myself exhausted watching your posts, but I look forward to them... only because I've been there.

Hi Victor: Just a thought on your interior/exterior. If you decide to keep the ivy green interior for a while, a gorgeous color green exterior is Ford's Dark Ivy Green metallic - I believe it was made from 1968 to 1970. I had it on my 70 LTD and it had the same interior color as yours. It's a really like color. I agree with you on the Presidential Blue - that would look fantastic on your car. I am constantly amazed at the stuff you are able to do. Did you have mechanic training at some point or is it just something that comes natural to you?

I would keep the interior green, as well as the paint, but green is my favorite car color. Talk to an upholsterer, they might be able to give you some tips on redoing the door panels.

You know about opinions, but here's mine. Lol. The green interior obviously would clash with the dark blue metallic. I had a 64 convertible in that color and it had white leather seats and door panels with blue dash and carpet. It was very weathered and someone had replaced the seats with black from another car. In order to make it look presentable I bought NAPA black vinyl dye and sprayed the dash and door panels all black. It did not look good with the dark blue. If you want dark blue exterior I would suggest white seats and door panels and dark blue dash and carpet. You would have to have the seats redone of course but you could use DuPont vinyl dye mixed at a local jobber to the color you want. Then dye the door panels white and the dash and all other surrounds dark blue. The headliner would have to be replaced and of course the carpet. I changed the interior of a 61 thunderbird from faded worn out red to honey beige and it looked better than new. With all of the work you've done so far it would certainly not be out of your range of expertise. If you do keep the interior green you are certainly limited with exterior colors. The Ford Fleet white (M code) used on fords, Lincolns and mercurys is a great antique white that would look good with the green interior. BTW I also have not seen one of those rubber filled window gears in a long time. Actually on a 66 thunderbird when I was 17 years old so more than five decades. Lol

Looks great I’m sure it sounds good too.

Love how your actually fixing things that needs attention, and not just stuff in a 700hp engine and addressing nothing, like most shows.

Nice little project, hope you enjoy it.

Nice work!

Loving the detail!

Couldn't help but notice how nice the headliner appears to be in your continental. Pleased that Midas can custom bend pipes for you. Do you plan to have them welded to the mufflers & resonators, or use clamps and hangers. I was so pleased with the quietness and lack of rattles after having several of my exhaust systems welded from front to back.

Will you be driving the Lincoln to Texas?

Glad you will get the exhaust finished as you will enjoy driving it just on a whim.

Exhaust pipe work is the worst, especially on older cars. I've been fortunate these past 25 years to know a mechanic with a pipe bender. He has fabricated complete exhaust systems from front to back on a number of my work trucks and vehicles. No clamps. All welded. My guess is the pipes and mufflers will far outlast the vehicles, and ME for that matter. I certainly appreciate your videos, and all the work, time and details you tackle to make things right.

I gave up on rebuilt AC compressors after having at least half of them fail within a few days. Whoever is rebuilding them for NAPA and OReillies just simply is not competent. And they give you grief when you go to warranty them trying to blame it on something that you did. Last time I bought a new one I think off of Rock Auto and it worked great. Plus you can put the 11 oz of PAG oil in and know that you aren't mixing with the old mineral oil. Just a thought.

It's a shame about the threads in the carb. Now you're kind of stuck relying on JB weld or plumber's tape from this point forward. Pains me to see how much work you have put into this lovely car, and to have a stupid thing like this set you back.

Great video. Flashbacks from when I had to replace the passenger window motor in my '71 T-Bird. Took me a month of Sundays to get everything aligned and tightened. Question: Are the gears in your new motor nylon or metal?

Congrats. On your. Anniversary. May 08/24. Thanks. ❤❤❤❤

Happy Anniversary!🎉 That’s wonderful and your carb fix worked. Good deal glad to hear that.

Awesome job!!!!!!

Good video again. Sorry for the carburetor problems, you will get it! As you say “Unexpected challenges”

New engine components look terrific...congratulations. Perhaps you've explained, but beyond comfort, why barefoot?

You are begging to lose toes, smarten up

Nice job on the door. One step closer.

Nice, a lot of energy and time. Well worth it though it looks good!

It looks like that door may have been replaced before. Isn't that red paint inside of it? Maybe that is why it has lock vacuum tubing.

I wonder if they sell a spacer to take up the gap in that hub bore. Have fun bleeding brakes!

Hang onto those! The rebuilt one I ended up with was $850.00 my core was not repairable. Crazy.

I watched a video I’ll find for you. Pretty sure it’s in the intake line to the washer motor.

Nice job on blower hose modification and finding the washer pump hose. The fluid bag looks great. Glad you got one that doesn’t leak. I guess a leaking bag with a bad seal would be cheaper. lol.