![Bruce Coggins](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Bruce Coggins
United States
Registrace 6. 05. 2013
I'm just your basic hardcore gearhead. I was a professional mechanic in the 80s and 90s and retired in 2002 due to back surgery. I'm into Drag Racing and Muscle Cars. I've been racing for over 30 years.
I'm here to share some of the knowledge I've gained over the last 50 years of my life so hopefully, someone can learn something from my experience...or maybe I can pick up a tip or two...I'm not above learning something new.
I'm here to share some of the knowledge I've gained over the last 50 years of my life so hopefully, someone can learn something from my experience...or maybe I can pick up a tip or two...I'm not above learning something new.
Mallory Comp 9000 module testing
Today we're testing 2 Mallory ignition modules. A friend's race car lost spark, so instead of cooking ourselves in the 100 degree heat, I thought removing the distributor from the engine would be a good idea so I could test it by itself. This eliminates various other things that could be a potential problem.
zhlédnutí: 105
Video
Showing off my new SUN Engine Analyzer
zhlédnutí 158Před měsícem
I just wanted to make a quick video showing my "new" SUN Engine Analyzer and SUN 404 Distributor machine. I picked these units up from a friend a few weeks ago and haven't had much time to play with them yet.
Evans Coolant in the GTO
zhlédnutí 94Před 2 měsíci
Getting the GTO ready to go racing. Today we are draining the old antifreeze and installing some Evans Waterless Coolant. This stuff is race track friendly and it is going to save us the hassle of draining and flushing the system every year.
Wrecking yard visit 5-23-2024
zhlédnutí 65Před 3 měsíci
I figured it was time to get back to the wrecking yard so I went on a scouting trip to see what I could find.
A TBI distributor for your race car?
zhlédnutí 3KPřed 3 měsíci
Why would you want to put a TBI distributor in your race car? Well, for one thing, it has a smaller diameter cap than an HEI. It's also much less expensive than name-brand ignition systems. It works on the exact same principle as every other distributor too. Most of us toss the module in the trash and use an aftermarket ignition system to fire off the magnet pickup. The TBI distributor is a sol...
Midget Sprint Car racing with Michael Daniels
zhlédnutí 330Před 9 měsíci
We haven't raced this car since 2017 and a few years ago we brought it up to Idaho and left it with our good friend, Dave Lewis. He called and told us about this huge race happening down in Vegas at the end of November and he started getting the car back in race-ready condition. We headed up to Idaho last week and finished up some work and then headed to Meridian Speedway for some quick testing...
How to degree in a camshaft: Tools I use
zhlédnutí 208Před 9 měsíci
I read a lot of automotive forums and a question that seems to come up often is - should I degree in my camshaft. It seems most people deem it not necessary however, in my experience, I have seen cam phasing off by up to 10 to 12 degrees. The last three cams I degreed in all had issues and were very unique. I can't even begin to tell you the issue we had with the very last cam but I sure do wis...
Operation Tow-rig upgrade - 496?
zhlédnutí 204Před 10 měsíci
1988 C3500 time for an upgrade. This truck has a tired old 454 with a TH-400 transmission so towing out of town would be sketchy at best so I think it's time to build a 489/496 and upgrade the trans to an overdrive unit. I'm going to capture every step along the way so follow along and feel free to throw in your thoughts and ideas and let me know if you have done a similar swap. Cam: GM 2450261...
72 GTO - Charging issues part 2 - does pulley size matter?
zhlédnutí 151Před 11 měsíci
In the first video we learned that the alternator wasn't charging so we repaired that and then continued on with our original test which was to see if there was a difference between running a large-diameter alternator pulley vs. a small-diameter pulley. Next, we changed the battery/chargeback wire from 10 gauge to 8 gauge to see if there was any difference. Let me know what you think in the com...
72 GTO - Charging issues - part 1
zhlédnutí 291Před 11 měsíci
Today we are working on a friend's 72 GTO drag car. It has been having a problem with the battery going dead after just a few runs down the drag strip. At first, I assumed it was because the large alternator pulley wasn't spinning the alternator fast enough but after some testing, we found the real issue... Check out part 2 here: czcams.com/video/XrHLHsSSSzE/video.htmlsi=hMYurVXqBZu8mY-V
Firebird Raceway - Nightfire Nationals 2023
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed rokem
I have literally spent an entire week trying to edit this video. I had almost 2 hours worth of footage but some of it had blank spots, some language and some background music that would cause youtube to flag it for copyright. I wasn't planning on unloading all 2 hours but I thought it would be easy to stitch together...boy was I wrong...anyway. Hmmm, it looks like my music during the crowd walk...
Spark plug testing & checking Dwell on an HEI
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed rokem
This is a video that I have been wanting to do for a while. I wanted to show the difference between a stock spark plug versus a racing spark plug. I think some of you might be surprised at the amount of resistance a stock plug has. As a little bonus, I added a how-to on HEI dwell testing. Most people have no idea that an HEI even has dwell let alone how to test it. In making this video, I tried...
My weekend adventures
zhlédnutí 419Před rokem
I had a few projects to do this past weekend so I just wanted to give everyone a glimpse of the kind of cool hotrods I get to work on. Back when I was a full-time mechanic, this was just my basic routine day. Nowadays, I'm more selective on what I work on but I do still manage to keep myself busy since we don't have a dragstrip anymore. I managed to get quite a bit done this weekend but ran out...
Camaro engine install and a visit to my machinist
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed rokem
In this video, my friend and I get the engine put in the Camaro. We've done this numerous times over the last 30 years but this one was a little tricky because of the kicked out oil pan and the header collector tethers. It was 4th of July weekend so it was hot and I had some family things to get done so we didn't have too much time. I also dropped an engine block off to my machinist and hung ou...
Wrecking yard day
zhlédnutí 168Před rokem
It's Sunday and I'm bored, so it's time to hit the wrecking yards. I am looking for a 4L80E or preferably, a 4L85E transmission for my 88 Dually. I have a running list in my head of things to look for while I'm there too. Oh, and I know...I really need to organize my garage, LOL.
How to lockout and phase your HEI - Part 2 - Questions answered
zhlédnutí 14KPřed rokem
How to lockout and phase your HEI - Part 2 - Questions answered
How to repair a leaking Hydro-boost unit
zhlédnutí 14KPřed rokem
How to repair a leaking Hydro-boost unit
How to lockout and phase an HEI distributor
zhlédnutí 25KPřed rokem
How to lockout and phase an HEI distributor
MSD HEI 8365 Locked out timing experiment
zhlédnutí 21KPřed rokem
MSD HEI 8365 Locked out timing experiment
MSD HEI 8365 Locked out timing w/o module
zhlédnutí 422Před rokem
MSD HEI 8365 Locked out timing w/o module
Can you talk more about your machine. We have a machine shop. N we have several guys that need help doing this. Your machine is perty slick. Looks like just a blower motor off an old chevy truck? How do u attach motor to dist.?
I've been trying to buy a SUN distributor machine for many years and no one would sell me one or they wanted an arm and a leg so a couple of years ago I was looking up how to build my own and stumbled across this design so I pretty much copied it and made a few changes to make it my own. Google search "homemade distributor machine"...the guy did a nice write up with pictures. I made mine large enough so I could put different ignition systems on it and I cut a long extension cord and put two clamps on it to hook it up to a standard 12 volt car battery. The motor is your basic blower motor (PM102). For the coupling, I cut an old oil pump drive shaft and attached it to the blower with a couple pieces of hose...you want this connection to be somewhat flexible. I control it with a DC motor speed controller. For the wheel, I recommend using some lightweight corrugated plastic. I am using a slip collar to attach the wheel to the machine so I can run it with or without the degree wheel. The top plate is just a piece of metal I had laying around and I bought some spark plug thread inserts so I could screw spark plugs into to it. There are not really any exact measurements...just make it as large or as compact as you want
To properly check/gap a spark plug you should use a wire type Guage not the flat style you showed.
Got a weird situation with my '96 2500, the tag in the glove box shows a JD7 but the parts stores all said that it's supposed to be a JB8 hydro boost. Rather than figuring out which, does the kit fit both? And how do I know which kit? The parts stores don't have them...?
I've repaired lots of hydro boost units and every one I've seen takes that figure 8 gasket and one of the seals....the kits I order come with the figure 8 gasket and 2 seals...one larger and one smaller. I don't see why one of these won't work in your situation. I'd pull it apart and see what seal it has and then order a kit from Amazon
We already know how to, dude.
Thank you!! ....................NO BS > .......................................No rotten music > ............................................................................ No overrated explanations > ................................................................................................................................... Just Great Information! 👍( ͡❛ ͜ʖ ͡❛)
Great video, wished I could find the 4 pin HEI module bench test schematic using a 9V battery & test light. I had it 15 years ago… I’m getting old.
I was about to do the same thing with the Mallory module...I wasn't sure if it could handle full battery voltage but after looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like if it's wired through an ignition box then it is safe. I think I will look into the 9 volt battery test a little more though.
Well, I thought I saw the diagram in a Chiltons manual years ago..but a simple voltmeter set on continuity should show opening & closing on terminals B-C. My issue is creating the AC signal at W-G, without pulling out my distributor. Read where an old Weller soldering gun would create a strong AC field on W-G, but it doesn’t. Tried a 9V battery in series with a 12v test light on B-C & it never pulses the light.
Interesting video. Keep them coming👍.
Clamp the drive gear on the distrubutor in a bench wise and spinn the housing to see if it got a offset machind to the housing . The housing May loock strange if the housing isent wobbling on the macined surfaces it is ok
That's a good idea. I'll check it out....thank you.
With it locked out you can check timing at any rpm?
Yes, I very highly recommend checking it at idle as well as 3000 RPM or higher. You need to see if it stays the same or if it retards as the RPM increases. If it retards at higher RPM, you can readjust the idle timing to get the results you want or that the engines requires.
I bought a fast brand lockout kit we'll see how it works
greetings congratulations for the channel A question, the distance between the holes of the blocker is how much?
The best way to get the holes lined up is to use a piece of cardboard or a piece of paper and press it on the top of the posts. Transfer that to whatever you're using and drill the holes. Hope that answers your question.
Thanks for the tips and video. Worked great for my 1993 GMC dually. 🙂
This guy's got a nice test rig.
Y’all giving me flashbacks, and leaving me envious. Thinking y’all will find it all extremely useful. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks...I haven't even seen one of these in about 30 years. I never got the chance to play with these very much but we did have these units in the shop in the 80s and 90s...I mostly just watched and learned from the guys who knew how to use them. Can't wait to spend more time with it.
The piece youre talking about to test the HEI in cap coils was metal and just snapped on to the cap. It then had a tab that let you clip the test wire to it. You could probably make one.
Oh yeah...it's been a long time, LOL. I was going to try to search for one but now you got me thinking...thanks for your input.
@@BruceCoggins you're welcome.
I haven't seen either of those test equipment in over 30 years!
Same here. To some people this is just old out dated equipment or "junk" but to me this was a part of my past and something I am super excited to have and I plan on experimenting with this as much as possible.
@@BruceCoggins we had a large Allen Test equipment one at a shop I worked at back in the day. It had a 4 gas analyzer with it as well. It was huge and took up a lot of space! I like these as it lets you see what the spark line is doing. Especially in each individual cylinders.
How do u get rid of the hei module in these ? Circle track use for me
In order to remove the module you will need an aftermarket ignition box...MSD, Crane, Pertronix, etc...hook that up to the magnetic pickup and you're golden.
talk would be good also explain this process and benifits
This was one of the first videos I ever made and I didn't really want to talk on it so I put in the background music...I need to redo it without music and explain each step. I made a Part 2 video explaining things and answered a few questions though...
Hubiera estado bien ver la calidad de la chispa en la bujía cuando tenías los cables al revés , para diferenciar la calidad de chispa de bujía de una forma y de la otra
Si la chispa tiene que saltar tanta distancia como cuando pusiste los cables al revés , la bujía no produciría una chispa buena para quemar bien la mezcla verdad? E incluso necesitaría una mezcla mas rica de gasolina para que el motor arrancase ? Un saludo y gracias por sus videos
Great question...I'm sure it would run but I think it wouldn't run very well for the reason you stated. Thanks for watching.
Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. Power steering is making the whining noise. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.
Disc brakes do have a tendency to slightly drag but the wheels should turn freely when you spin them by hand. One thing you can try is loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder on the booster and see if you can feel the rod pushing it away...if it does then the rod is too long or the pedal isn't returning all the way. It shouldn't cause all 4 wheels to drag because as you push the brake pedal the fronts activate first and then the rears.. or vice versa but either way only one or the other will be in play. As far as the whining noise in the power steering, as soon as the bubbles disappear the noise should go away. Check the ps fluid with the engine running and add as necessary.
@@BruceCoggins ok thank you I’ll let you know how it goes tomorrow!!!🔥🔥🔥
@@BruceCogginsnew subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
Did you figure out what your problem was then?
@@HallnoutMhall master cylinder.
Cool test lab run... I'm 500th subscriber!
LOL, yes you are...thank you for subscribing.
Need to have the spark plug pressurized to about 150 psi for any meaningful test....Those sparks you have shown are pretty wimpy....I would have expected much better from the hei system..... ;^(
Thats some pretty cool stuff
good to see you again
Keep the videos coming👍.
One recommendation when using one of the TBI distributors, is to check the magnet on the shaft. It was very common for them to crack and cause poor starting and other driveability issues. Replacing the shaft is very easy and only takes a few minutes. I've replaced 100's of them over the years!
AUTOLITE AR3924 racing plug is a 4-ohm resistor spark plug
Thanks for pointing that out. For years I was under the impression that all race plugs had no resistor but after looking at numerous plugs it seems some do have a resistor and some don't but they still somehow have very low resistance. Something I should have tested when we had a racetrack was a high resistance set of plugs versus a very low resistance plug to see if there was an ET difference. Our local drag strip was sold in 2018 so tests like that are much more difficult....
I always thought they were called Big cap and Small cap HEI distributors. The HEI module and external HEI coil work together, the module provides maximum dwell to saturate the HEI coil for very hot spark. I have a large cap in a flat head Chrysler 6, and a small cap in a Slant 6. Both engines are in forklifts. I got tired of weak spark and rough running in cold/damp weather. They run much better now, been working flawlessly for 20+ years with the parts in them from the junkyard. The HEI is supposed to be good to 8000 RPM, and will throw a spark 5/8" long reliably. Ford and Chrysler adopted the design when their own electronic ignition systems didn't work so good. You can get after market HEI distributors for Fords and Chryslers.
Thanks for sharing Bruce! I’m running an HEI , locked out with just the pickup. It’s wired to a 6AL-2 programmable and stock coil in the cap. I’m gonna hunt one of these TBI units down next time at the junkyard to give me more room :)
What about the 4.3 v6 distributor using a 8 point cap?
Good question...I'd check the magnetic pickup and see if it has 6 or 8 points on it. I'd assume it would only have 6 so that won't work. I might need to see if I can find one of those at the wrecking yard next time I'm out there and do some experimenting
6 cylinder distributors won't work in 8 cylinder engines due to v6s having 6 pickup points vs v8s 8 pickup points.
The distributors are always phased properly because the cap contacts line up with the reluctor wheel when wired with the correct polarity.
Old school ingenuity, build/don’t buy! You can build it for street (and /or )all the way to make it jump off the starting line
Is it true, the factory module has a small amount of built in advance? Heard the marine guys use these in boats.
An electronic control module is simply the electronic replacement for points. A module has a certain amount of dwell built into it...as a matter of fact, it has what's called "expanding dwell". Google search HEI expanding dwell and you'll read some interesting information. Now, I believe the 5 pin module has a retard function but not an advance function. They were used in the early computer-controlled distributors back in the mid to late 80s.
@@BruceCoggins I've read about the variable dwell. Mainly used to reduce coil & module temperature at low engine speeds by reducing on time. Then at higher speeds allows for more coil saturation. High tech back in '74 lol. Pretty sure the marine guys say the factory module on TBI modules will slightly advance timing as rpm's increase, it was some sort of default if the ECM failed to control timing. Just wondering if you ever noticed or can confirm.
@@scrappy7571 I have not tested that but I don't really see how the module can change the timing by itself. Let's look at the wires on the module...There are 2 connectors on one end of the module...these go to the coil positive and negative. On the other side there are 4 wires...a ground (black), timing by-pass (tan with a black tracer), purple - this is the reference for the ecm to run the fuel pump after it sees a signal, and a white wire which is for the EST (electronic spark timing) so that would mean the computer can adjust timing. This module does have dwell but that doesn't change the timing. I may be missing something but I still can't see how the module alone will change anything with the timing. Questions like this get me thinking though...I will try to come up with a way to test that theory with my wheel installed on the machine and we'll see if that holds true or not without the use of an ECM. Thanks for your input...now we have more things to test ;)
@@BruceCoggins Cool! I have been pondering this for years. Hope you can confirm it does or does not.
If you have a gm module try to use it. Aftermarket modules usually have "unnecessary" features removed.
Great video. I learned me something today:)
Thank you, had no idea you could use these with a spark box.
These distributors are a great option that work as well or better than most aftermarket ones. If you pick up one of these distributors used, make sure the bushings are good and the shaft doesn’t have any play in it. And when hooking it up to an MSD box, be sure to read the pdf/instructions thoroughly. If I remember correctly, depending on which box and pickup you have, it sometimes requires that you reverse the ‘polarity’ of the pickup wires. Always check your phasing. This is a great video.
Yes, checking the phasing is important and easy enough to do but is often overlooked. Thanks for your input.
like to know the measurements of that test bench you built. and do you have a degree wheel to mount on it?
For the design of this distributor tester, I searched for "homemade distributor machine" and a very nice write-up came up so I pretty much copied that plus I made a few tweaks to the design to make it my own. You can make it larger or smaller depending on what you plan to do with it. In my case, I wanted to have enough room behind the distributor holder to mount different ignition systems for testing. Reading the write-up, that guy used a degree wheel to do timing checks. I tried that but the degree wheel was too heavy...instead, I used corrugated plastic because it is light and rigid. If you look through some of my older videos, it shows how this works. I made it so I can run this unit with or without the wheel. I will warn you though...once you build this, you will spend hours and hours in the garage playing with it and all of your friends will want to bring their distributors and ignitions over for you to test LOL. This has been a lot of fun and I can actually test ignition systems before I mount them in the car which can save time when trying to trouble shoot weird issues.
Which one do you suggest for race cars?
Pretty much any distributor that has a magnetic pickup is going to function about the same. If you plan on running locked-out timing then for simplicity, the TBI distributor would be easier. The HEI can be locked out but it does require a couple extra steps. As far as performance is concerned, again they should all be the same.
@@BruceCoggins . Thanks for your great information, What about marine engine?
You will need the marine version which is waterproof. If locked out timing is what you're looking for then this will work just fine.
Good info!
best module for a big block chevy street car please locked out distributor
If you lock out the advance and retain the module, your timing will retard as RPM increases due to latency between the magnetic pickup and the module. Whenever I lock out a distributor the first thing I do is remove the module. You will need an ignition system capable of firing off the magnetic pickup like an MSD 6al for instance.
use to snap ground off
Good video but with today's trucks engine bay being stuffed with horse hockey, I'm taking the assembly off except for the master cylinder.
These are really good videos. I am having a cut out issue with our MSD ignition and distributor and I was going to lock out an HEI and try it just for testing purposes.
MSD distributors have an issue with the magnetic pickup getting corroded so I'd take a look at that. Depending on your setup, it could be a spark plug issue too. If you are running "race plugs", they do not have a resistor so they may be causing RF interference. I have a friend who races a COPO Camaro and started having ignition issues shortly after changing spark plugs. Apparently, those cars/engines don't like non-resistor spark plugs, lOL. I have a video testing the resistance on multiple spark plugs that you may be interested in watching.
@@BruceCoggins this combo just started out of the blue, a little after we installed a Boost Leash Pulse Leash. I have replaced the cap, rotor, and magnetic pick up, checked the phasing (phasing was perfect) and issue is still there. I had same issue trying to record it with a camera lol. Video is on my channel. I sent the box out for testing and MSD said it was good. Had carburetor rebuilt by CSU. Cleaned fuel filter, changed plugs and wires, re-set rockers and a few other things I cannot think of. Car revs just fine in park in neutral but driving down the road it cuts out around 4800 like it is on the 2 step. Other than that, it drives, starts, and idles just fine.
Do you need to lock out the vacuum advance if no vacuum is connected? I would not think that you would.
The vacuum canister holds the magnetic pickup in place but it will not be phased properly if you lockout the centrifugal advance. You can modify the mounting holes or make your own lockout plate to use in place of the vacuum canister. Watch part 2 of this video...I explain that part in detail. Thanks for watching.
can you hook an old climate control cable leaver to the timing with 0 being marked center ect?
I think I know what you're asking but I don't see why it would be necessary. Once you lock the magnetic pickup in place and it's phased properly, you shouldn't ever need to move it again. Are you looking for a way to adjust it on the fly or something? Again, that isn't necessary.
If you changed camshafts, would you have to rephase the rotor?
Negative. Once you phase the distributor, it's phased. Basically, your just making sure the magnetic pickup is in line with the reluctor and once it's locked down it won't change.
@@BruceCoggins thanks!
If the spark gap does not fall directly in front of the spark plug wire terminal, could it cause the gasoline to not burn well and cause the spark plugs to turn black over time? as if it had excess fuel. ? Could it also cause the engine to not have a good response? Could the counterweight springs be responsible for this failure? Greetings and thanks for your video friend
Great questions. If the spark does not occur directly at the terminal or between cylinders, it can cause two cylinders to fire at the same time. You might feel something like a misfire or you might not feel anything at all. This shouldn't cause the spark plugs to turn black. If your plugs at turning black then they are fouling...it could be oil fouling or you could have an overly rich fuel condition. A few things I would try. 1- Double check your timing. I would need more info about your combination in order to give you a recommendation on where to set it but if it is too low, that can definitely cause your issue. 2- you might need a hotter spark plug. Running a plug that is too cold can cause fouling. 3- the carburetor might be jetted too rich or may not be adjusted properly. Again, I don't have enough information about your setup to give you any good advice there. You asked about the counter weights/springs...if the counter weights and springs are operating properly then all is good. If the weights are stuck in place and will not move then that could cause some issues due to the fact the timing can't advance as it should. As long as the weights move freely then that would not be your problem.
@@BruceCoggins Thank you very much friend, I will try to make a cover that I have the hole like you and from there I will confirm that it springs well into place, the ignition advance of this engine is 8º and is correct according to the lamp and the marks, once I check The distributor is going well, I will look at the carburetor with a vacuum gauge, (Rochester quadrajet 4 barrel carburetor) it only has 2 screws for the passage of gasoline, it does not have any for air, (the idle screw does that function) I have another engine like this and it runs perfect but even taking into account how the other one is, this one does not respond like the one that works well, I will try again and if everything is correct I will look at other things before looking for a new carburetor, greetings and thank you very much for your time
@@franciscotrujillo4961 even without knowing much about your combination, I would say that 8 degrees is a little low...that's probably what the tag in the engine compartment says but you have to remember that is for emissions purposes. I would bump the timing up to about 12 degrees (with the vacuum advance hose plugged) and then plug the vacuum advance hose into a manifold vacuum source. After you advance the timing readjust the idle speed then adjust the idle mixture screws...you can use a vacuum gauge or do it by ear depending on your experience but do one side at a time, turn it in (clockwise) slowly until the engine starts to stumble or the vacuum gauge drops then turn it out about a turn ...do the same for each mixture screw. You should feel a noticeable difference.
@@BruceCoggins It could be, because I have the other engine at 12º and I am about to do everything as it is in the manual, I put it at 8º, maybe that is the key, the distributor does not have a vacuum hose, so I did not tell him anything about that topic, but Thank you very much for your attention, regards
Siempre que coincide el salto de chispa debe de hacerlo frente al borne del cable de bujía? Aunque se suba de revoluciones?
Respuesta corta: si
Cool setup. How about testing different coils with different spark plug gaps? 0.030 vs 0.060? Measuring output voltage would also be interesting - at the coil and at the plug - and heat developed at the plug by each system.