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there are loads of vids on here take a look at chadwick model railway charlie is a wealth of knowledge on scenery and loads of vids to service locos i had to take all my railway down as we moved house it was after 6/7 years work on it new house has no where to put it up yet as i had to build a new garage to work on my rotten classic mini might be another year to get done or longer then i will start another model from scratch but i am 71 years old and not very fit but it gives me some thing to do i always look on the bright side so dont let things get you down fella just crack on

Hi Graham! Nice to see that I'm not the only one that had problems reversing wagons across setrack points! The problem is that if Peco made setrack with the curves required to satisfy medium radius streamline points, you'd require a much larger area to lay the track, which sort of defeats the purpose of setrack! I'd be happy for them to put warnings on the packets of setrack points though, explaining what their pitfalls are! I'd also like to see manufacturers be more honest about the radius of curve their rolling stock can handle! Anyway, great to see that your testing went well! All the best, Ian.

I've been buying HO and N switches of every brand since around 1980 including the cheap and deluxe lines except Bachmann fasttrack and the only brand I have had 0 problems with is the KATO switches except the #4's need a bit of tuning but I mostly avoid them anyway. I've always been able to make all brands reliable with some work, but I agree it shouldn't have to be that way. My Lionel switches of every generation have always just worked. Not sure why nobody has ever made bulletproof HO and N switches. Glad to see a new video by the way.

The test all went well Graham. Good to see everything running as it should. I too wonder why PECO use the first radius curves and points in starter kits (so do Farish in their sets because PECO make the track for them I think). I think the problem is that newer models can’t handle first radius in the way older models could. For the wagons it maybe the bigger wheel flanges kept things on the track better and people with Minitrix older Poole Graham Farish, or old PECO locos don’t seem to have a problem on first radius and those who use Fleischmann track and locos say their engines cope with first radius easily. The problems of set track was one of the reasons I decided on Code 55 from the start even though it requires a bit of work to get used to using flexitrack. Stephen

Hay Graham, looks like you have had a long journey since your channel first popped up. First and foremost, every single, modder out there (me included) have, well let's just say made a mistake along the way, so do not despair, and do not give up. If you are going to start over (I have done before), what i doo these days is pop the track and points on a sheet of scrap ply and aerosol spray them with sleeper grime. Once dry, just a little wipe over with a track rubber will clean the rails and some verry fine sandpaper around the fishplate areas dose the job, you can then go ahead any lay it all down and you are already ahead of the game. I hope this helps. Cheers, Paul.

Hi Graham, I know what you mean about the bogies, mastering all this is a learning curve and where possible short cut the process by watching as many video's as possible. There are always people happy to help and there are two who have commented on your video that have and do help me on various things. All the best Chin UP.

Just found your channel. Watched all your episodes. Looking forward to the rebuild episodes.

A good question, what happens in the end? I had to move from a 3 bedroom house (due to it being too large for one person) rented, onto a 40' narrow boat, most the rolling stock, track was sold or given away. Now I am a fews years on my boat & I have decided to model again, but a short 6' x 2' tapering into around 1' based board in O gauge!! I did try N (too small glasses + magnifier) & OO station for DMU's boring. what happens to me once I'm gong is not a problem, but someone else's (daughter) of which I won't have any control just be tucked up in a little cardboard box! As for time & effort that goes into a layout it's a hobby, as which we learn from mistakes, vlogs on CZcams if you are in a club other members! there is no time cost but a bit of frustration & enjoyment when it works.

Hey there Graham it is good to see you up and enthusiastic again after the other week. It is all part of the process as you go along changing plans and adapting.

Just catching up. Shame about the point but we have all done that at some time or other. I damaged one only 6 months ago just caught it and bend the moving rails almost into a U shape. I just had to replace it. I certainly was not happy with myself but in the end it can be replaced. Things will brake and stop working so we just have to soldier on, just how it is I'm afraid.

Hi Graham. Good to see your plans. The support through CZcams is quite amazing and it is really good that it helped lift you after the last video. I was interested in your comments about future proofing your layout. Essentially you are going to build your layout in the same way that people build exhibition layouts. There will quite a bit on CZcams and the forums about how to construct a layout that way. Look forward to seeing how you’re getting on in future videos. Stephen

Hi Graham, just seen your tale of woe. The bogies on that loco do actually just pull out, but when new they can be rather stiff. Before you rip up the track take a deep breath and think again. Painting the track is not something I did at first and I found that the shiny new track, in time, darkens down on its own. Also instead of paint use weathering powders and A small ladies make up brush. Then wait and and clean off with a track rubber, much easier. If it makes you feel better, I dropped a pair of pliers on a three way point and broke that. £60 down the drain ! It happens unfortunately so chin up, keep going and just swear ! If you need help with stuff please ask.

That looks a really nice place. My local heritage railway is Great Central Railway at Quorn and Woodhouse. 😊

Graham, nice photos and backing track

Thank you, my layout has gone through many changes from a shed too bedroom to a new home it’s all documented good and bad in videos here on you tube take a peek through my playlist, and welcome along for the ride..Graham

Hi Graham, your channel popped up in my recommended videos, it was your previous one where you were not happy at all. So I watched it all the way through, my layout is quite new and I've made lots of cock ups and had setbacks due to my lack of knowledge and me being impatient etc, stick with it and hopefully you will get it where you want to be. Enjoyed this video too, so I just subscribed to your channel, look forward to future updates 😊👍🏼

Why the need to swear?

Just come accross your channel and have subbed. I'd recommend painting the track first then ballast. My last layout update has a section on hand painting track. Breaking a point is an occupational hazard - we've probably all had similar occurrences. Cheers Euan

Look don't beat yourself up over things that go wrong on your layout ,I've been there done that but you can get past this we've all been there I know it's not nice BUT when it's sorted which you will it's all part of the hobby ,it might be a tip it may not be but I screw my track down not glue it so cheer up and get back at it but don't leave it to long .. Camborne central

Sorry to find you're struggling, maybe I can offer my suggestions in the spirit of friendliness and fifty years of experience. 1. Take time and different paint applications to weather your track (or locos/stock). It doesn't happen overnight with one pass of paint. If you don't paint regularly you should not expect to pick up the (air)brush and be proficient/produce a masterpiece. Practice on something of less importance first. Paint the outside of the outer rails only on the points; we want trains to run in a faultless manner. 2. Join a model railway club and talk to other modellers online. Ask someone to help you get the class 24 sorted. I'm sure there's not much wrong that can't be sorted. Get p@#$$%@ off, do something different, walk the dog, come back to the railway later when you're feeling happier. I'm in Surrey, not sure which county you're in post- move?Best wishes to you 😊

Hang in there, a few weeks ago i bought a radio control plane . Went up a few times then God knows. It pretty much exploded what it came down. So much for foam . I have repaired. Now waiting for a calm day.

too bad you got in trouble with your track work. But the painting looks nice. And a good thing you put maskingtape over that switch. Now i wouldn't paint any surfaces that you don't see. That way you will keep the contact surface clean as far as possible. One upside with painting with a common brush is that you won't have any oversprays. No fumes in the air. I have painted my n scale tracks using a brush. The best result you will get by giving the track several coates of paint. Paint it, check the result and repaint it. Using a wooden stick or a track rubber will do the cleaning work. Now in order to avoid trouble with your switches i have only painted the ground under the switch, with the same color as the ballast.. No ballast at all in around the switch, where you have moving parts. Fixing the ballast around the rest of the tracks can be done with a mix of carpenters white glue and water, some detergent. Check other CZcamsrs to see how the mix and use it. When the track looks good weather it a bit. Google for pictures of track , you will be amazed ! pictures really are inspiring ! good luck with your project !

I feel your frustrations we all break things trying to fix them, It can be costly but you learn and improve each time...I build in OO gauge but same applies, when you are painting or ballasting try this I have a length of track and a scrap point attached to a piece of ply. If I am trying something for first time or cant decide on the right colour for something I do it on the scrap track first when I have the colour and technique right I move to the layout. Also the same with rolling stock I bought a cheap collection of wagons and bit's from eBay and I practice my painting and weathering on them before attacking my good stock. A little practice saves money in the long run.

Don’t give up mate, I’ve been working on my layout for the last 6 months whilst in recovery from severe depression. We all have ups and downs, the great thing about posting videos is you are sharing your experiences. I’m not in a place where I’m brave enough to post videos however I get real solace from people like you who keep it real, have a look at everard junction- he has some really great tips on all of the topics you are interested in. You have been an inspiration so don’t loose faith.

Keep going, I have made lots of mistakes that’s cost me. I have been at it for 2 years and I still don’t have any locomotives running, for lots of reasons.

High Graham that box for your class 24 model looks like it has a split chassis so the bogies do not pull off. The bogies are held in the chassis. Assume no lighting on the model and if so the body will just slide off and no DCC plug. The issue may be bogie contacts not touching the chassis side so no power getting to the motor. Good Luck.

MAN you gotta love it when they have to put captions up for a guy speaking english AND THEY DONT SHOW WHAT HES ACTUALLY SAYING????

Hey there mate, look at that beautiful dog trying to cheer you up 💕 don't be down on yourself, N gauge is fiddly but there are some things you can try that will bring your wish of watching the trains running closer. Did you know you can get flexible pre ballasted track underlay? Quick and easy. Don't be in a hurry to paint the track! Real track takes ages to weather in. If you do decide to do it, you can get track colour in spray cans. But you need to use it well ventilated. I made a card mask around the can and moved it along whilst spraying. A track rubber will remove surface paint from the rails. For the point you can either mask up or spray and clean off with IPA soon after. All the best to you

Come on Graham cheer up, it's not that bad. I've been at this for over fifty years now and I'm still learning and (yes) I still make plenty mistakes. Maybe you could be a bit more modular, build the layout in sections, build a separate station to eventually fit on the layout or take up 3d printing. You could seek out other hobbyists in your area to give you advice and encouragement. Finally, no need to feel compelled to make CZcams videos as this only makes the learning process more onerous. Good luck for the future and get back to us all when the time is right....

The biggest issue I’ve seen is nobody washes the plastic sleepers as there’s an oil based release agent put on it to come from the mold and as a result the paint comes off , No2 the same goes with metal the paint doesn’t get a grip on metal and just doesn’t stick . You must use a primer on both metal and plastic for fantastic results . Primer on flexi track doesn’t work unless it’s like hornby semi flexi as it’s made from styrene a hard plastic , peco flexi is made from polyurethane the same plastic as carrier bags and is no use in my books and don’t use it so stay away from peco flexi there points and other track is styrene . Wash the track in an airbrush or brush with isopropyl alcohol and some water n detergent it mixes really well and wash it before you lay it put some panel pins in a piece of wood and hang them up to dry and spray paint them before you lay them I know it’s a fuss but the end results will blow you away , if the tracks laid use pure isopropyl alcohol to clean it as it dries rapid just use a mask or you’ll end up woozy lol best of British mate so don’t give up I’ve waited 6 years without a layout on a new house coz the Mrs wants to move , I’ve got thousands of pounds worth of models and no place to put them and I’m not giving up lol…❤️

I've lost count of how many times my layout has p***ed me off to the point that I wondered why I started it. The track weathering looked good, I've not been brave enough to have a go at that yet ... Steve

Good to see you pushing on , and not giving up , building my firs layout was a disaster, but I learnt a lot of valuable lessons , I tried to get the glue to dry on the ballast, and grass because my mixture was a bit watery , so I waited a few days, still not dry , so speed up the process with hot air gun , and it worked great , until I realized I melted all the points and buffer stops ect , had to rip it all up and start again at the cost of new parts and weeks of work …. All working ok now, not perfect but a lot of fun , and considering doing it again with new ideas … started buying a few bit for the new project already … good luck

I use railmatch sleeper grime spray cans on all my normal track before laying. Use it outside in a ventilated environment. It creates a great first step. I hand paint points, crossings etc. Everything does not go to plan for all of us. Scenics involving any form of plaster can take days and days to dry. It will all work out in the end mate :)

feel your pain I have a layout 18' x 10' x 3' all up and running in my shed , came back from an holiday to find that the roof had leaked badly and had to rip it all up to start again. Annoyed diddnot come into it , a couple of days to calm down and I very slowly rebuilt it over a few month's

Don't get too disheartened. We all have times when things don't turn out the way we planned them - I can honestly say, "Been there; done that and got the Tee shirt!" Things do come together so keep at it. If I thought your work was rubbish then I wouldn't have become a subscriber.

Oh man Graham I really feel for you dude, don't let little setbacks like this bowl you over, take a break then come back and lift and replace that Turnout. Sure it might cost a few pound but it's not bad enough to make you feel this low ........ man I wish I was there to help you out and support you. DO NOT give up man. Tones1957 ( New Zealand)

paint then ballast, with the points put some blue tack or cardboard in the area of where the rails contact, also put in your extra sleepers to close up gaps at the joins

Every day is a school day as they say, we all seem to make the same mistakes, you can't claim to be a modeler if you haven't.Sometimes the issues that we think are insurmountable turn out to be easier than thought,I find that the jobs that we think are a doddle often turn into a nightmare with a further issue. Walk away & return, it is surprising when your newly refreshed ideas turn out for the better. Do you have a local model railway club where someone else can check your locomotive?

Sorry to hear bout all the problems, know the feeling of buggering up, tried varnishing my hornby class 31 id just spent around £250 on building only to weather it and the varnish cause it to go frosty white, managed to fix it but was one of thoes days i walked away in frustration. Its n gauge your guna have issues with its size and fragility but keep at it, we all make these mistakes ;D Quick question where you got the airbrush from? Id love to get it for the price, seems good enough. Thanks and good luck.

Do you have a local model railway club. They might be able to help you fix the class 24.

Also have a look at Charlie on Chadwick Model Railway for his ballasting videos. I’m going to do a ballasting video on my layout soon.

Hi Graham. Check out That Model Railway Guy. I’m sure he’s done a video of ballasting around a point. The trick is to put tape or a piece of card in between the blades to keep ballast and glue away from the power area.

You could also just buy a 4ft x2 ft x50mm thick sheet of foam and put a loop a few points maybe a passing loop and just pin the track to the foam you can paint under the track to have a ballast look put some simple scenery on it So you can run trains anywhere anytime while you perfect yourself on the original layout as you feel like it people will still stick with you through all this as we all struggle to make that perfect layout 👍😉

Bugger and you know it’s a very relaxing hobby keep it simple mate it’s usually the best way to get things happening

Great job on the track weathering, looks great! We all have times when things go wrong, I understand it is annoying when things like this happen, but when you can get another point, that will solve the problem. I once bought a scissor crossing, N gauge is was around £60, all was fine for month or so and I caught a switch rail, repaired it, but it happened again another one gone. Both rails caused derailments. I had to rip it out, and buy two regular points, over £100 all told. I broke a brand new loco fitting the decoder, couldnt repair it, nor return either. Sadly, breakages and failures are part of the hobby too. May I suggest take a short break, couple of days and jump back in to avoid losing interest altogether.

Hard luck Graham. I could see you were really disappointed but don’t rush at anything unless that is you like your new track plan better. There are so many things that we have to learn how to do and it doesn’t always go well. Bachmann service department will be able to fix your 24 and give it a general service. Good luck with whatever you decide to do with the layout. It can be a very frustrating hobby at times. Sorry the modelling gods have decided to pick on you for a while. Stephen

Don't let it get you down..we all have those moments...🙂👍

Looks good, just continue and build it up....

Is this N Gauge or OO?

A pity about the PECO motor Graham. The problem you were having is caused by PL12 adaptor base being built for OO gauge. So if you use them for N gauge the track has to be lifted up (3/16" cork would do). That will make sure the rod stays on the pin on the tie bar. Hope the SEEP motors work for you. I think you can trust yourself on modelling the foam at the front. The shaping of the area at the back should give you the confidence you need that you have the skill to do it. The foam just needs to be roughly the right shape. With plaster bandage or using paper or both, you can then model to the final look that you want. Look forward to seeing your progress. Stephen