From one grandad to another, I enjoyed the video. It's always good to see the thought processes of others even if I'm doing something different / differently. The backing music was good too.
The mimic panel has turned out very well Graham. TEH waterslide transfers provide a professional finish to it. I had similar problems soldering until I went to the Warley exhibition. One of the demonstrations every year is soldering and two key things I wasn't doing. First I wasn't making sure both surfaces to be soldered were clean. Newly stripped solder is clean enough and can easily be tinned. Any metal surface will be oxidised (or in the case of rail has a coating on it) which needs to be removed. A fibre glass pen will do the job, just to give a clean surface. Second I wasn't using flux. It made all the difference once I cleaned surfaces and used flux. Stephen
@@grahamthompson6406 I bought a tub of LA-CO Flux paste. I’ve had it about five years and it’s still going strong. I have seen a number of other modellers use liquid flux with good results.
Front cover looks ace. For easy soldering try this.... Carrs 'Speedy Solder' DCC Concepts Sapphire 'No Clean Flux' luquid A hot iron, if variable at least 330c ish hot I personally dislike most 'electrical' solder as it's designed to ball up on OCB's and as you've found out is a pig to flow. Other solders and fluxes like the one's above are designed to run easier. Does mean you manually apply the flux with a brush but soldering I find is eaay this way.
A very professional job. Looks good.
Thank you
From one grandad to another, I enjoyed the video. It's always good to see the thought processes of others even if I'm doing something different / differently. The backing music was good too.
Thank you
The mimic panel has turned out very well Graham. TEH waterslide transfers provide a professional finish to it. I had similar problems soldering until I went to the Warley exhibition. One of the demonstrations every year is soldering and two key things I wasn't doing. First I wasn't making sure both surfaces to be soldered were clean. Newly stripped solder is clean enough and can easily be tinned. Any metal surface will be oxidised (or in the case of rail has a coating on it) which needs to be removed. A fibre glass pen will do the job, just to give a clean surface. Second I wasn't using flux. It made all the difference once I cleaned surfaces and used flux. Stephen
Thank you what flux did you use
@@grahamthompson6406 I bought a tub of LA-CO Flux paste. I’ve had it about five years and it’s still going strong. I have seen a number of other modellers use liquid flux with good results.
Another two things to consider are the solder (% lead content / does it contain flux) and the temperature of the iron (if it is controllable).
Front cover looks ace.
For easy soldering try this....
Carrs 'Speedy Solder'
DCC Concepts Sapphire 'No Clean Flux' luquid
A hot iron, if variable at least 330c ish hot
I personally dislike most 'electrical' solder as it's designed to ball up on OCB's and as you've found out is a pig to flow.
Other solders and fluxes like the one's above are designed to run easier. Does mean you manually apply the flux with a brush but soldering I find is eaay this way.
PCB's*
Thank you I will look into these items..g
Did you consider push button switches with built-in LEDs?