Hi Graham. Interesting insight to the buffer stop light, I have never used that type, simply because I just don't like the look of them. For a lit buffer I have simply drilled a hole through the centre of the buffer stop bar and glued a prewired red smd led behind it then painted it black to stop the light bleed and then painted it the colour I required. I will be sharing this technique in a future video as I need to add one to Swade's Pond. The Peco turntable quite simple is not an easy beast to motorise, and all the ones I have seen motorised have had the motor mounted underneath. Regarding the point motor many years ago I used the Peco pl-10 mounted on an adaptor plate (pl-12) so I could surface mount my motors but used the wire in the tube method from the adaptor plate to the point but this method certainly would not hide under a platform, maybe a building. Just food for thought! All the best Tony.
I feel your pain on the light for the buffer stop light. I have several of them and most are a loose fit. I've lost count of the times they have fallen over. Gaugemaster recently bought the company that make these (Train-Tec), so it isn't, to be fair, their fault. They are supposed to fit snuggly, but as you discovered they really don't. If I can be bothered I may well do as you did and solder one leg in. Good to see your progress. All the solenoid point motors are very particular about needing to be square to the point and the right position. I've got two surface mounted motors on my layout, and they work well, but took quite a bit of TLC to get them sat right. Solenoids also work better if a CDU is in the circuit and I can't remember if you have one. I did look at fitting the PECO motor to my turntable, but I decided against. It would require a hole in my baseboard, and I think it is deeper than 50mm. But the N gauge turntable bridge does not have any wheels (the OO gauge one does). So you have plastic running on plastic, which not only gives drag, but also I suspect, will cause a scraping sound as it all wears. I have therefore left it to the Hand of God to turn the bridge. Interestingly I don't really use it that much, but it does look good and would be a necessary part of any steam depot or terminus stations. The back scene looked good I thought, and a neutral backscene avoids distracting from whatever is in front. Stephen
BUFFER STOPS & POINT MECHANISMS !!! The Gaugemaster buffer stop is not even a British type, and the product comes from one of the European manufactures. Further the metal rail on that buffer stop is not current code 60, (looks like old fashioned now overscale code 80), so will not attach to current finescale Peco N track !!! Secondly that obscenity of a light looks absured, and I'll bet expensive. Further in Britain there are also rules about what design of buffer stop is required for different locations, and even what colour the lamp is supposed to show, as it is NOT always a red. Peco Points. The point seen appears to be a "Dead Frog" type (not a "Live Frog" version), which I wouldn't recommend. Further attaching any type of Solenoid mechanism to any Peco made point eventually ends in tears. For the simple reason than solenoid motors hammer the point blades back & forth until eventually the tiny Peco hair spring hidden under the tiebar breaks. Meaning you have to buy and install a new point. Therefore using proper motor driven mechanisms that fit UNDER THE BASEBOARD, is far better. I have always used Fulgurex (Swiss made) mechanisms which wind the blades over gently, and come with a brass crank in a tube, one end of which simply drops into the whole in the tiebar end at either side. Further the Fulgurex mechanisms cost around £10 each (when purchased direct from Fulgurex) and only require TWO not three wires to operate them, & also come with two free switches built in. One of which can be used to control the polarity in a LIVE FROG point, and the other possibly to interlock the signals. As such, you can use a Double Pole Double throw (No centre off) mini-toggle switch, which will suit your current control panel. Fulgurex mechanisms last for Decades even under intensive exhibition use. Some of mine are now 30 years old, and have been very heavily used on a number of exhibition layouts. Spray with WD40 once a year to keep them sweet. They only need two screws to mount them under the baseboard. Fulgurex are best bought direct from Fulgurex in Lausanne Switzerland. They speak English and accept plastic on the phone, you may even get to speak to the Baron himself !!! Happy Modelling....
I have not seen your channel for a while. It's looking good. Would the turnout motor be better on a piece of cork board, maybe, or maybe an idea to try next time. All the best.
@grahamthompson6406 I haven't used them motors, but I'd imagine it would help having a bit of play at each end of the connecting rod to minimise any twisting or chafing, reducing the resistance on the motor, also having the rod longer would all reduce it as well. I know you've done it now, but it might help someone who reads your comments anyway. All the best with your next steps on your layout.
Hi Graham. Interesting insight to the buffer stop light, I have never used that type, simply because I just don't like the look of them. For a lit buffer I have simply drilled a hole through the centre of the buffer stop bar and glued a prewired red smd led behind it then painted it black to stop the light bleed and then painted it the colour I required. I will be sharing this technique in a future video as I need to add one to Swade's Pond. The Peco turntable quite simple is not an easy beast to motorise, and all the ones I have seen motorised have had the motor mounted underneath. Regarding the point motor many years ago I used the Peco pl-10 mounted on an adaptor plate (pl-12) so I could surface mount my motors but used the wire in the tube method from the adaptor plate to the point but this method certainly would not hide under a platform, maybe a building. Just food for thought! All the best Tony.
thank you for your comments,
Awesome 😎
Thanks 🤗
Hi. Your layout is really coming on. Looks good. I'm also in the process of building an n gauge layout. Doing scenics ,buildings ,backscene at mo.
Thanks, you too! and good luck
I feel your pain on the light for the buffer stop light. I have several of them and most are a loose fit. I've lost count of the times they have fallen over. Gaugemaster recently bought the company that make these (Train-Tec), so it isn't, to be fair, their fault. They are supposed to fit snuggly, but as you discovered they really don't. If I can be bothered I may well do as you did and solder one leg in. Good to see your progress. All the solenoid point motors are very particular about needing to be square to the point and the right position. I've got two surface mounted motors on my layout, and they work well, but took quite a bit of TLC to get them sat right. Solenoids also work better if a CDU is in the circuit and I can't remember if you have one. I did look at fitting the PECO motor to my turntable, but I decided against. It would require a hole in my baseboard, and I think it is deeper than 50mm. But the N gauge turntable bridge does not have any wheels (the OO gauge one does). So you have plastic running on plastic, which not only gives drag, but also I suspect, will cause a scraping sound as it all wears. I have therefore left it to the Hand of God to turn the bridge. Interestingly I don't really use it that much, but it does look good and would be a necessary part of any steam depot or terminus stations. The back scene looked good I thought, and a neutral backscene avoids distracting from whatever is in front. Stephen
thank you for you comments Stephen, ive just watched your latest video and your layout does look smashing well dopne
BUFFER STOPS & POINT MECHANISMS !!!
The Gaugemaster buffer stop is not even a British type, and the product comes from one of the European manufactures. Further the metal rail on that buffer stop is not current code 60, (looks like old fashioned now overscale code 80), so will not attach to current finescale Peco N track !!! Secondly that obscenity of a light looks absured, and I'll bet expensive. Further in Britain there are also rules about what design of buffer stop is required for different locations, and even what colour the lamp is supposed to show, as it is NOT always a red.
Peco Points. The point seen appears to be a "Dead Frog" type (not a "Live Frog" version), which I wouldn't recommend. Further attaching any type of Solenoid mechanism to any Peco made point eventually ends in tears. For the simple reason than solenoid motors hammer the point blades back & forth until eventually the tiny Peco hair spring hidden under the tiebar breaks. Meaning you have to buy and install a new point.
Therefore using proper motor driven mechanisms that fit UNDER THE BASEBOARD, is far better. I have always used Fulgurex (Swiss made) mechanisms which wind the blades over gently, and come with a brass crank in a tube, one end of which simply drops into the whole in the tiebar end at either side.
Further the Fulgurex mechanisms cost around £10 each (when purchased direct from Fulgurex) and only require TWO not three wires to operate them, & also come with two free switches built in. One of which can be used to control the polarity in a LIVE FROG point, and the other possibly to interlock the signals. As such, you can use a Double Pole Double throw (No centre off) mini-toggle switch, which will suit your current control panel. Fulgurex mechanisms last for Decades even under intensive exhibition use. Some of mine are now 30 years old, and have been very heavily used on a number of exhibition layouts. Spray with WD40 once a year to keep them sweet. They only need two screws to mount them under the baseboard. Fulgurex are best bought direct from Fulgurex in Lausanne Switzerland. They speak English and accept plastic on the phone, you may even get to speak to the Baron himself !!!
Happy Modelling....
Thank you for your recommendation, I will certainly look into Fulgurex.
I have not seen your channel for a while. It's looking good. Would the turnout motor be better on a piece of cork board, maybe, or maybe an idea to try next time. All the best.
welcome back, i did try it on a peace of cork but it needed to be just slightly lower to be able to throw the point..G
@grahamthompson6406 I haven't used them motors, but I'd imagine it would help having a bit of play at each end of the connecting rod to minimise any twisting or chafing, reducing the resistance on the motor, also having the rod longer would all reduce it as well. I know you've done it now, but it might help someone who reads your comments anyway. All the best with your next steps on your layout.