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It may not be a problem. Not all machines fail in the same way. I chose not to get a replacement part because the part was the same age as my failed machine and they wanted way too much for it. If the price had been more reasonable, I might have gotten the used part. In my case, I didn't need the recording capability and was able to find another multi-cd unit for half the cost of the replacement part. I hope you unit gives many years of service.

I actually learned this by watching someone else messing with a TC-850 or something newer. I just lifted the tiny take up lever and It came to life. I don't have manuals yet they are on the way and I don't have experience working one either. OH well at least it's clean as a whistle and I have learned how to take it apart and check everything in it!! Cheers!!!

I grew up with reel to reel tape players and everyone back then knew you had to have tape in the tape player before it would run. It never occurred to me that I would need tell anyone that. I guess that is a lesson to me that, today, things that were common knowledge when I was younger, aren't now. Glad you found the issue. Did you get the files I put up for you?

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 yes thank you for those… i didn’t see that you had responded with those files until after I purchased both of them on eBay $70 but one comes with my new belts. I feel kinda dumb now but at least I was able to disassemble and clean everything also replaced a few out of spec caps. I tested every transistor and cap on the control board LOL. I really appreciate your help. Thank you

The first thing to check is the 22 pin connectors the the circuit boards are mounted in. Those can split apart where the wires go into them and that will break important connections. You can replace those with modern 44 pin connectors. That is not a fun job. I would also suspect that the micro switches need cleaning. I forget which video it was in but I showed how I cleaned them. That is a common problem with vintage micro switches. If none of that helps, I would download the service manual, which is available free, and start looking at voltages from the power supply.

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 Thanks I had an update to my question after I did some cleaning on your 4th video in the comments. All those 22 pin connections are very good and clean like new and tight. The motor in the center is running but the upper two tape motors are not. I was hoping to hear some relays as I switched the buttons but only one relay at the bottom of the control board is clicking and middle motor was spinning then two of the four .1 uf +120 ohm 500 volt snubber caps blew. I have some old box style caps but they dont have resistors in them and I was considering running a resistor with these but don't know if it is supposed to be in series or parallel. Its all in this box style cap resistor thing and I can' t tell. Hmmmmmm

I paid 225 bucks for this machine yesterday off craigslist and I shouldve had her plug it in, I guess I have a new boat anchor but I would love to fix it with my limited electronics engineering skills.

How did you get inside those micro switches? I just sprayed contact cleaner into the tiny opening around the tiny button which probably did absolutely nothing LOL

@@scottjamable That is where the service manual might help.

It sounds like the is a problem with the motor. Quite likely the bearings may are seized. Never had one apart so I can't advise you on that. Given that the supply transistors are getting hot, that means one of two things to me. Either seized bearings or a short in the motor.

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 The hall element sensor in the DD motor drive board was short. Its spinning fine .but i couldn't set 33 and 45 speed

@@maheensulaiman1410 That hall effect sensor is part of the speed control circuit. Since that shorted out, it is possible that one of the components in that circuit was damaged. I assume you have replaced the sensor?

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 yes ,it is replaced. New hall element installed in motor board and IC CD 4011 and op Amp also replaced.Now its working well . Thanks for your advice

@@maheensulaiman1410 Happy I was able to help. Glad to hear it is working.

If I were just, "soldering two wires together," then twenty minutes would be terrible. I didn't realize it took that long but there is more involved. Cutting away the molded plastic strain relief. Trimming back the insulation, which I almost screwed up on one wire. Making sure I got the shrink tube positioned and close as I could to insure that I didn't wind up with a short. All of that does take time. I've also noticed that when I am filming it takes longer than if I am not. Dealing with the shrink tube was a rather fiddly part of the job and probably took the most time. The fact that it took as long as it did doesn't mean it wasn't easy. It was just time consuming to do.

Thanks! A power resistor decade box would great. At some point I may have to break down and get one. Thankfully, my resistor collection works for now.

I like it. Nice crisp sound with decent bottom end.

Thank you. I'm using the model TC-707S 2-track which looks quite similar. I also want to buy this TC-650 to experience

Perdón por el retraso. No hablo español y he estado muy ocupado. Conseguí correas de transmisión de www.turntableneedles.com. Hay otra fuente que puedo probar, www.vintage-electronics.net/

Thanks for your input. It is definitely different. There are clear indications that this was a cheaper radio but I guess that doesn't diminish the uniqueness.

Mine is 120 volts. There is a tag on the back that tells what voltage it is for. The power cord for 220 volts will be quite different than the 120 volt.

Definitely interesting. Would like the details when you are done!

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 I tested it out a few minutes ago, and it will need some shielding, the LED backlight inverter ($3) is giving some interference. I need a metal enclosure and some ferrite rings for the power wires. otherwise powers the unt fine

I believe there is. I would recommend downloading the service manual, which is available for free. Don't recall where I found it but an Internet search should find it.

Thanks, I'll look for the manual.

Not an expert on these but I would check the power supply caps. A hum at zero volume usually means the hum is from the power supply caps. If if is is not that, then I would be looking for a bad ground somewhere in the audio part of the circuit.

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 Will do, thanks. I bought these 2 units in the same week Both unopened boxes. Could be the fact that both were made in china and one was made on a Friday. Thanks for the reply.

The coil wasn't necessary. I didn't use it and saw no performance issues.

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 I just rebuilt the same radio, your video's were a great help, Thanks!

@@scottpetersen2028 Thanks for letting me know!

The only thing that secures the radio is a small wooden block that is screwed into the shelf behind the radio, positioned in the center of the radio. It will not hold the radio in place if you flip it on its back. Not very secure.

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 ok thanks.

Go to Ebay and search for Affinity For Artifacts. They have a lot of different bulbs.

That's the one. thanks@@oldelectronicsfan5136

Start by rotating the flywheel and get a sense of how freely it turns. I would then remove both belts from the motor and check how freely the motor and the flywheel turn. Testing with the belt on and off will give you an idea of how much the belt is adding to the resistance. Even a good belt will add some. I would lubricate the capstan shaft, from the front of the tape player, no matter what. I will be doing that for all tape players in the future. Check the pinch rubber roller. Make sure it turns freely and that it isn't too soft. If something has been used to clean it that damaged the rubber, it could be too soft. I would also lubricate that too. Be careful not to get oil on the roller. If that doesn't find anything. I would, with the drive belts still off, hit the play button and rotate both the fast forward/rewind pulley (where the small belt goes) and see how that behaves. Same with the capstan flywheel. If you find a lot of resistance in either of those, you will have to get further into the drive mechanism to find out what is causing the problem.

Thank you for mentioning that. I don't think there was enough room between the brass collar and the motor body. I still think I should just have run the motor with a cloth around it before assembling it. However, I remembered that I actually have a couple of the needle tip oilers. Had forgotten I had them. They were in an old toll box I hadn't used in quite awhile.

Actually, the motor board needs to be properly grounded. I have a second video on this turntable that goes into this repair in greater depth. I also found a second problem that also causes hum. Look for the Akai AP-206 Repair Revisited video.

@@oldelectronicsfan5136 thank you so much for your videos and feedback!

I used a Deoxit product but there are other decent contact/control cleaners'

Thank you for all that helpful info. Definitely seems like a good idea to get the new version.

If sending to a decent newer radio, you may reach about 6 feet. Older tube radios are far less. I use it primarily to test radios in frequencies that local noise prevents me from receiving. I also use it when doing youtube videos to avoid copyright strikes.

No, the static is real and if it is really bad can cause noise but, grounding won't help that. The record sits on a rubber mat which insulates it from the platter, which is typically grounded. The real problem is that you have a noise source, the motor, and you have a low voltage signal that requires a great deal of amplification. Without proper grounding, the noise from the motor and hum that comes from other sources gets amplified to objectionable levels.

I just picked up one of these for nothing. When you change belts, is there an alignment that the gears have to be in? Having weird issues. Works until I seal it all up.

More specifically, the disc trays start to slow down, heading back to the laser, to a point that they cannot make it.

Haven't used blue tack but it sounds like it could be very helpful.

Thank you

The diagram was shown in the video fairly close to the beginning.

I think that wood sides were an option, that was true of other brands I know for sure. I am impressed with the sound quality of mine. I imagine yours was good as well.

I also lean toward discrete. They are easier to repair. I was thinking that to get the ability to go from FF or Rewind straight to play, you would need IC's. Turns out I was wrong. The thing about the Sony is how complex it is. That would not be fun to repair.

It definitely is. I think it is over 40 pounds, for non-metric folk.

You can. I gave the circuit diagram for the DIN plug and that will give you the info you need. If you don't use satellite speakers, you may either want to wire in a volume control set to minimum or wire a high watt 8 ohm resistor across the outputs for those speakers. Not sure how well the satellite speaker amp ic's would tolerate being open circuit.

You are correct. I also read that if you are playing a mono record then pressing that button can reduce rumble, noise and distortion. Thanks for pointing that out.