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Sam Blasco
United States
Registrace 18. 07. 2013
Test Driving the Class Si X Sliding Table Saw
Playing around with this awesome double tilting slider while visiting the showroom one day.
zhlédnutí: 1 919
Video
FS 41ES Installation
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 2 lety
Installing and testing this Minimax Jointer/Planer combination machine.
Having fun with the Formula S 640P Bandsaw
zhlédnutí 939Před 2 lety
Covering the basic installation and test cuts for this powerful beast.
Making Doors: Cope and Stick Joinery
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 2 lety
Going into the details and setup to make this classic joint.
My Battle with Kipp Handles? Or How I Stopped Swearing so Much!
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 3 lety
My simple modification for making these little devils quite useful in spaces that aren't out in the open or accessed easily or both.
How to build a corner cabinet.
zhlédnutí 34KPřed 4 lety
Here I show you how I build corner cabinets for a kitchen. Ones that will be ready for some Lazy Susan hardware.
Shop Visit: Huge Pecan Slab Conference table by wood artist Lou Quallenberg
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed 4 lety
I paid a visit on my friend, and fantastic woodworker, Lou Quallenberg. Great shop, good conversation and a beautiful piece of furniture.
Minimax FS 30C Jointer/Planer Demonstration
zhlédnutí 19KPřed 4 lety
Getting to know one of Minimax's most popular machines.
Minimax S 45N 18" Bandsaw
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 4 lety
Taking this new version of one of Minimax's oldest models out for a spin.
Minimax ME 25 Edgebander Installation
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 4 lety
Initial install, setup and testing of this edgebander, a small shop workhorse.
Jointer/Planer Changeover Time
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 4 lety
I put the stopwatch on a casual changeover of the jointer/half of my full combination machine.
European Jointer Guard vs. American Jointer Guard
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 4 lety
A simple comparison of the two systems.
Building a window surround for a kitchen.
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 5 lety
This is the first cabinet completed for my kitchen. I preferred something a little useful rather than just putting a frame around a window. The rest of the uppers will register off of this cabinet, so it needed to be built and installed. first.
Jointer Euroguard Quick on/off Modification
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 5 lety
Jointer Euroguard Quick on/off Modification
MM16 (S400P) Original Demo Video w/ Sam Blasco
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 6 lety
MM16 (S400P) Original Demo Video w/ Sam Blasco
Combination Machine Vanity Build Part I: Plywood Processing
zhlédnutí 10KPřed 6 lety
Combination Machine Vanity Build Part I: Plywood Processing
Jigs, rigs and techniques for cutting Small Parts on a Sliding Table Saw
zhlédnutí 15KPřed 6 lety
Jigs, rigs and techniques for cutting Small Parts on a Sliding Table Saw
Sqaring a curve on a sliding table saw
zhlédnutí 3,7KPřed 6 lety
Sqaring a curve on a sliding table saw
Sliding table saw superiority: Straight line cutting into parallel ripping.
zhlédnutí 43KPřed 6 lety
Sliding table saw superiority: Straight line cutting into parallel ripping.
Is your sliding table saw square? The 5 Cut Method in 3 Cuts!
zhlédnutí 70KPřed 6 lety
Is your sliding table saw square? The 5 Cut Method in 3 Cuts!
Scoring Blade Adjustment for Minimax Sliders
zhlédnutí 3,9KPřed 6 lety
Scoring Blade Adjustment for Minimax Sliders
Can I ask what the brand of the incremental fence is and how you fixed it to the slider ?
Hi Sam, great video, I note that you have 2x DRO'S do they ron off one magnet strip
Singal fes hai masin kitne paise ki hai
hey sam what brand is your shaper? I for sure need to upgrade my current setup. your work looks great , I like a little less gloss .I use a medium dull rub finish , conversion varnish from Sherwin williams although I'm checking into finish works products as they seam to be more geared to supply the cabinet and furniture business. could you help me out?
Why does minimax (FS41) ship with such a crappy plastic guard? For this reason alone I just ordered the euro guard, although euro does seem like the safer option.
Sir please send me number
Really bad music
Anyone here have a Robland E3200? When i purchased mine 18 yrs ago it was commissioned by an engineer working for the saw sales company . It didn't cut 100% square then . It was always slightly out of square. After many attempts in fine tuning it is still not cutting square . Its driving me nuts. He also set the parallel fence so that the fence is not 100% parallel with the saw blade ie if you put the fence against the blade there's a tiny fraction of a gap at the back of the blade near the riving knife. Is this normal?
Hi Sam. Ha! I have one of those Jointech Clinchers sitting in my basement, I’m going to mount it on my slider too!! That’s pretty sweet. Can you tell me about the extrusion you attached to it?
Now I know. American guard all the way. Euro guard will just slow productivity big time. When I did this work, sometimes you had surface long, thick heavy wood. It was pointless to make full passes when starting, so I would work one end at a time until you could remove materiel in an entire pass. You just can't do that with a euro guard because you need to teeter slide the board on the leading or end edge of the machine.
No measurements 🤦♂️🤷♂️
Well and good if we all had his equipment we could build it too,please someone show us amateurs with limited equipment and knowledge how to get it done.
Great information, this video is worth several views. Some of this I knew and reinforced, some I just never thought of. Thanks for posting
So your gizmo is just holding your sheet off the crosscut fence? It's round so the sheet can pivot if needed to stay flat against the rip fence?
My mechine stuck cutting side
Please call customer support. If you are in the USA the number is 866-216-2166. I am not a technician.
Enjoyed the build, but I ESPECIALLY enjoyed the music! Thank you!
Je veux connaître le prix de vos machines svp
I can only hear a guitar playing.
The music... too much!!!
Poplar is a soft wood.
I don't know where this "European" guard system is coming from since there are many countries with there own laws and restrictions in Europe. I'm Dutch and never worked with either cumbersome systems you are referring to in your video. Watch this video, at 3:40 min he is showing how he is using it. This type of guard can move unlimited in vertical and horizontal direction. The way I've been thought is you push the wood over the blades until your fingertips of your right hand touches the guard. You lift only your fingertips over the guard while keep on pushing the wood with the palm of your hand. When your palm reached the guard, your fingertips are already passed the guard so you can transfer the pressure and keep full control during the full pass. czcams.com/video/EQeIDiya5gY/video.html
Is the dust port farthest from the cut the choice if using just one of the ports?
I'm not sure. It is not something I experimented with. I should think it wouldn't take you long to figure out by switching from one to the other during cut sessions.
I have been enjoying your videos , just set up my new SCM Minimax si 315es, in doing so I would like to up grade my leveling feet. As a master at SCM products do you have any suggestions. I will keep watching for your great knowledge of the trade.
Hey RJ. Thanks for the kind words. Your feet should be threaded for M12 studs, so any leveling system or caster can be added if it is a 12mm stud rather than a plate.
Sam. Great video. I have a new si400 still in the crate while I complete my shop. I like the incremental positioner. Did you build it or buy ipositioned. Thanks.
It was made by Jointech, now out of business, but the same basic technology as Incra, and you should be able to do something similar with one of their positioners. You can get that same little support table for your slider by calling into the parts department at SCM NA.
@@SamBlasco thanks. Good luck with the scraps.
This method really worked - simple, intuitive and effective. My saw is really dialed in now. Thanks Sam!
Glad it helped!
Can you explain the relationship between the Cross cut fence and the parallel fence on this style of saw? It’s something I’ve struggled with on mine since I got it.
The Crazy Horse Dolly is now available here: Michael Samarza at: michael@westoakstudios.com. I got the contact info for this dolly here: czcams.com/video/8Gee2Ryk1P4/video.html. The version from West Oak Studios is made of wood but appears to function the same. I ordered one and hope to get it sometime next week.
Hi, the interesting part is, that the American version is not allowed to use in Germany, by law. The guard opens to early, if you have a wide piece of wood. It’s the same for closing, when you have passed the knife shaft. The standard in Germany for professionals is called Suvamatic. It’s expensive, but the most effective guard system, from my point of view.
Yes the Suvamatic is very nice, and crazy expensive. The one I tried seemed to have limited range for the side spring, and needed to be operated more like the standard Euroguard, albeit with the up/down spring action, though it was still not convenient to use a push block like I prefer to use. And, again, had a height limit, thus times when the guard would be useless. Perhaps the perfect guard will be a robot operating the jointer!
Hey Sam! You helped me set up my SCM Minimax slider via email some time back... Thank you! Now I'm in the market for a tersa cutterhead planer / jointer combo... But as a hobbyist, my budget is limited. Is the fs30g a good enough machine for a hobbyist working out if their garage... Or should I take the plunge with the little brother of the machine on the video, the fs30c?
Glad to help. The FS 30G is not brought into the USA readily. You could probably special order one for a little less than the FS 30C, but I'm not sure it would be worth the big lead time wait.
@@SamBlasco Thank you so much for your prompt response, and sorry for my delayed response! CZcams did not notify me. I'm actually not in the US, but your resources and videos have been my primary go-to, and a great help and source of inspiration... and your knowledge and commitment is hard to find over here in Europe, despite being the home of SCM. I've actually been asking around our retailers and via SCM channels, and not gotten a great answer... Except that it's a lighter duty machine. I'll see if I can save up for the FS30 C. Thanks yet again Sam.
Great video, learned some techniques to try on my slider. Gotta love that blues guitar, thanks man.....
Rolls Royce
No kidding. My shop slider is quite nice and reliable, but the Class Si X is truly something special.
The footprint for that saw looks larger than my shop, and I have the SC2C in the middle. 😀
Great saw and video:-) What (if anything) determines when you use your big cross cut fence in front of the panel, or behind the panel?
95% of the time I like to thrust cut (piece between me and the fence) because I am the clamp, keeping the piece firmly held to the fence. Push cutting (the fence between me and the fence) can be best on certain situations, and sometimes when working with narrower pieces.
Hi Sam, informative video... I have a fs30, sold to me by Dain a number of years ago. I see there are some nice re-finements .. does SCM still make a mortiser for an old FS30?
Hi Joe. I believe the current mortise will fit your machine. Call parts to verify. 866-216-2166
Hello sir one piece how much price
Contact SCM NA if you are in USA: 866-216-2166
This is one of my favorite tools. I love my slider but If I ever downsize I will still keep this one. Tersa is awesome. My dad has the helical and think Tersa is easier, faster and gives a better cut. Might be some unique figure grain helical marginally better but not enough for me.
Thanks Cliff. Yes, Tersa rocks. I've had a Tersa machine for over 20 years and I won't have anything else.
Great work and Great music Sam! Can't wait for my FS 7!
Nice video, and I was wondering if you were going to demonstrate the Tersa knife installation. I have the FS 30, and the ease of changing knives allows me to use the HSS knives as a bulk removal set and the M+ knives as a finishing set. That smudge on the lens near the center is distracting! 🙂
Thanks Mike. It is too bad we couldn't deal with that smudge in the lens cover. Unfortunately it is not easy to re-film, since I flew to the Atlanta showroom while we had the machine, so it would be impractical to do it again. It won't be there on future videos.
@@SamBlasco Some things aren't noticed until post production. I do enjoy your videos and the music!
Sadly out of my price range. ☹️
Can you provide instructions on how you made the jig?
the cart table that runs and is lower than the fixed table
What do you mean by "cart table"?
How much do you cut off the back corner?
It is pretty arbitrary for me, Manny, but about 4" from the corner point should be sufficient to make installation easier and still give you room for the Lazy Susan.
@@SamBlasco thank you, I’m trying to build one right now 👍
I wish I would have purchased a sliding saw instead of the SawStop PCS
Many years ago I was asked to participate in a round table about whether SawStop tech should be mandatory in all table saws. I don't remember the exact stats now, but injury from kick back and throw back was more frequent and often more serious than finger cutting. I posited that SawStop does a great job with the blood letting, but really does nothing to address the other issues. Therefore, I said if the SawStop tech is made mandatory then a sliding table saw should be mandatory too.
@@SamBlasco As a disabled veteran who does at times have some issues with my disability. I went with the Sawstop for that near elimination of the blood letting. I have had 3 kick back related incidents 1 on the Sawstop. With the Sawstop sliding table and not removing material as it built up all user created. 1 with my 12in compound miter saw cutting a old warped 20 ft x 8 inch fascia board to fit into the trash can in a rush. Again operator error. The board bound in the blade pulling the entire board forward with my hand that was holding the board. No injury. 1 with my never used ShopFox w1812 I missed a step and did not set the feed roller speed. And the board stopped feeding. it slipped off the in feed roller and when I lifted the in feed side back up onto the roller the cutters grabbed the board. And ejected it violently out the indeed side. Damaging the board and the wall. Lack of knowledge about the tool on my part as there is not a lot of information out there on moulders. I do wish that at the time of purchase that there was more information available for the sliding table saws and that I would have waited for Covid lock down to pass before ordering the Sawstop. SawStop is a great saw. Sucks at sheet materials and that is what I find myself doing more of lately.
Great saw! Young Padawan is a lucky kid!
Thanks, Sam. Would it have been easier to remove the lower wheel to attach the motor?
No. Maybe once the wheel was off it might be marginally easier to fish the bolts through, but then you would still need to route the belts into pulley grooves after re-installing the wheel. And getting belts in place is the most difficult and time consuming aspect of this whole operation, but you can't tell it from this video because the solid wheel blocks the view of me installing the drive belts. So really, taking the lower wheel off would have only added time. Plus, it is like 75 lbs, something like that, solid cast iron!
@@SamBlasco Thanks!
Very nice saw. 👍🏼
Honestly, I think those heavy clamps are way more than what the typical wood worker needs. I sooo wish a new lighter model would be invented.
I think it really depends on what you are doing. They are nice to have for those times when you need that kind of assistance.
Four years later, do you find only using your hand as a stop was enough to hold boards solid on the table?
For most things yes. I am the clamp holding things against the fences or stops, especially if the boards are relatively flat and square. I will use clamps for some things, rough boards with wane or twists, or both, etc.
Hey there, would you be kind to offer some advice, any is very useful: I have a Robland Z400 M panel saw sliding machine with 2 blades. Problem is that i can't align them perfectly... The pre cutter is always a bit off to the right or to the left and that is my problem. How can I allign those 2 blades perfectly?
I am not very familiar with that machine. On my SCM machine there is a knob below the table to move it right and left. Some saws come with a simple scorer installed and use a spacer on the arbor. If you are using a split scorer or dial scorer you may need to remove that spacer, or if you are using single blade scorer you may need to add a spacer on the arbor first to move the blade a little to the left.
Do you have a video on the setup of that rear sliding fence? I like how you can crosscut and rip all at one station.
Also, because you are ripping and crosscutting, how many teeth on the blade?
I don't have a specific video on that yet.
@@robertcornelius3514 This blade is the Ridge Carbide TS 2000 super blade, combination blade, 40 teeth -- good all around performer.