A gazillion videos on different jointers...planers...combos out there but the one thing I never see is a noise meter. Why would you care? Because many of us are still working in our 2 or 3 car garages in subdivisions with neighbors around us. Noise matters to us.
Garry. I apologize for not thinking of that. It is a question I rarely get asked, so it wasn't considered, but it still comes up. I'm not going to redo this video showing the Decibel rating, but I can tell you it averages 79 dB while cutting, without the DC going and 94 dB with the DC turned on. With the Tersa cutter head the knives only project 2mm proud of the head itself, so they move very little air compared to a standard head, which would be about 10 dB louder. With the Xylent cutter head it is 4 dB quieter still, not significant compared to the Tersa cutter head, but if noise is your main concern, then the Xylent head is the quietest option.
@@SamBlasco That actually helps a great deal. Wasn't expecting you to redo the video by any means...you already did a great job with it. Happy to hear your response regarding the noise. Thank you.
@@SamBlasco I've been researching combo units and am curious: is the Xylent cutter just a helical head with a marketing name or does it have special engineering that makes it quieter than a helical head by other manufacturers? Hammer has their "Silent Power" helical head but I can't figure out if that is also just a marketing name or if it really is quieter than other helical heads.
@@HelloAnthony The Xylent head is SCM's own design and manufacture. The cutters are radiused to reduce the ghosting marks that all helical, segmented heads leave behind, and they are closer to straight on, which also helps with the ghosting marks. Helical heads with more shearing action, helps some with tearout, but at a cost -- pretty significant ghosting. I recommend the Tersa system for most artisans and home woodworkers, who aren't pumping out much production, as the Tersa system offers the best finishing cut vs. any spiral, segmented cutter head.
"First thing I like to do with a board is to flatten it..." ironic, seeing the way you joint (or flatten) a board you look like you're doing this for the first time, i.e. wrong. Pressure is supposed to be applied to the board on the *outfeed* table as soon as possible not on the infeed table, as you are demonstrating right here.
You raise a question I get asked quite often when I teach my students. Many, many woodworkers were taught like you were. My method is markedly different, and I feel, more efficient, and something I've been doing in professional environments for over 30 years. Keep in mind, most of grew up on 6" jointers that were not always properly aligned and tuned. Therefore, one had to use quite a bit of force and pressure on the outfield table to make up for the machine's lack of alignment. If a jointer is properly setup then you simply need to allow the machine to do its job. If the tables are co-planar and TDC of the knives is the same as the height of the outfield table, then as you feed the board the knives will pull it downward and the weight of the material will be all that is required to keep the board on the tables. Thus you only need to apply force from behind the board to achieve the desired results -- a flat face or edge. One must realize on a jointer, that any downward force (on either table) defeats the purpose of the jointer. If you really want a truly flat face or edge you let the board float across the tables with little or no downward pressure (just enough to maintain control of the board). The method you allude to often requires far too much downward force, which results in the operator "un-warping" the board from the pressure, and though the face or edge gets planed it will still have some warp in it. It is for this reason that I don't recommend using a power feeder with a jointer, either. Any downward pressure is opposed to what you want on a jointer. I would also like to add that when commenting on things like this be very wary of using the word "wrong". As with many operations in the woodworking realm, there is often many ways to achieve great results for the same operation.
@@SamBlasco Hi Sam thanks for the answer to my comment. However I fear we are probably talking about two different things, which may be my bad for not being specific enough. I agree wholeheartedly with you in that in order to recieve a plane surface one must not apply too much downwards pressure, especially, when workpieces get thinner. However, there is no forward motion without at least a little bit of downward pressure (the pressure may increase if the work piece is more crooked). That being said, in the video you push from behind with one hand keeping the workpiece in touch with the table by applying very little downwards pressure with the other. My concern with applying this pressure on the infeed table (sometimes even right on top of the spinning blade) is one related to safety: Should your fingers slip at some point they will do so in front or right on top of the knives, since the guard you have on the jointer is not fixed in place this may result in an accident (though even with others that can be fixed I would always prefer to have my leading hand behind the knives). Were you applying downwards pressure on the outfeed table i.e. behind the knives, slipping would be less dangerous. As pertains to the set up you describe (knife TDC same height as the outfeed table) I have always found that the manufacturers themselves do not recommend it. Unfortunately my current machine does not allow for such a tight setting, since the tables are not precise enough. Nevertheless, if the tables are co planar and the knives are adjusted as you describe I don't see how the position of the hands should affect the results of the jointing process? Finally, rereading my comment, I realize I might have come across as impolite, for which I'd like to apologize (tip to the head to you for answering so calmly). Still, while many ways to achieve the same result may exist, I believe the achievement itself is not the only factor to consider. Repeatability i.e. safety is of great importance as well.
I'm not sure what you are referring to. Which section of the video? I assure you the machine was run and most shavings were taken by the dust collector. With a decent dust collector the shavings' extraction is quite good.
Sam, You are my hero, I would like to adopt you, but I don't think you're old enough to be my kid. Maybe as a grandkid. Great vid as always. Thanks!
Great terse video.
Gotta get me one.
Je veux connaître le prix de vos machines svp
Did you have to remove the porc chop guard to do the jointer to planer change over?
If you have to that all the time, you'd rather use the euro style one, which can left on machine when switching over.
A gazillion videos on different jointers...planers...combos out there but the one thing I never see is a noise meter. Why would you care? Because many of us are still working in our 2 or 3 car garages in subdivisions with neighbors around us. Noise matters to us.
Garry. I apologize for not thinking of that. It is a question I rarely get asked, so it wasn't considered, but it still comes up. I'm not going to redo this video showing the Decibel rating, but I can tell you it averages 79 dB while cutting, without the DC going and 94 dB with the DC turned on. With the Tersa cutter head the knives only project 2mm proud of the head itself, so they move very little air compared to a standard head, which would be about 10 dB louder. With the Xylent cutter head it is 4 dB quieter still, not significant compared to the Tersa cutter head, but if noise is your main concern, then the Xylent head is the quietest option.
@@SamBlasco That actually helps a great deal. Wasn't expecting you to redo the video by any means...you already did a great job with it. Happy to hear your response regarding the noise. Thank you.
@@SamBlasco I've been researching combo units and am curious: is the Xylent cutter just a helical head with a marketing name or does it have special engineering that makes it quieter than a helical head by other manufacturers? Hammer has their "Silent Power" helical head but I can't figure out if that is also just a marketing name or if it really is quieter than other helical heads.
@@HelloAnthony The Xylent head is SCM's own design and manufacture. The cutters are radiused to reduce the ghosting marks that all helical, segmented heads leave behind, and they are closer to straight on, which also helps with the ghosting marks. Helical heads with more shearing action, helps some with tearout, but at a cost -- pretty significant ghosting. I recommend the Tersa system for most artisans and home woodworkers, who aren't pumping out much production, as the Tersa system offers the best finishing cut vs. any spiral, segmented cutter head.
"First thing I like to do with a board is to flatten it..." ironic, seeing the way you joint (or flatten) a board you look like you're doing this for the first time, i.e. wrong. Pressure is supposed to be applied to the board on the *outfeed* table as soon as possible not on the infeed table, as you are demonstrating right here.
You raise a question I get asked quite often when I teach my students. Many, many woodworkers were taught like you were. My method is markedly different, and I feel, more efficient, and something I've been doing in professional environments for over 30 years. Keep in mind, most of grew up on 6" jointers that were not always properly aligned and tuned. Therefore, one had to use quite a bit of force and pressure on the outfield table to make up for the machine's lack of alignment. If a jointer is properly setup then you simply need to allow the machine to do its job. If the tables are co-planar and TDC of the knives is the same as the height of the outfield table, then as you feed the board the knives will pull it downward and the weight of the material will be all that is required to keep the board on the tables. Thus you only need to apply force from behind the board to achieve the desired results -- a flat face or edge. One must realize on a jointer, that any downward force (on either table) defeats the purpose of the jointer. If you really want a truly flat face or edge you let the board float across the tables with little or no downward pressure (just enough to maintain control of the board). The method you allude to often requires far too much downward force, which results in the operator "un-warping" the board from the pressure, and though the face or edge gets planed it will still have some warp in it. It is for this reason that I don't recommend using a power feeder with a jointer, either. Any downward pressure is opposed to what you want on a jointer. I would also like to add that when commenting on things like this be very wary of using the word "wrong". As with many operations in the woodworking realm, there is often many ways to achieve great results for the same operation.
@@SamBlasco Hi Sam thanks for the answer to my comment. However I fear we are probably talking about two different things, which may be my bad for not being specific enough. I agree wholeheartedly with you in that in order to recieve a plane surface one must not apply too much downwards pressure, especially, when workpieces get thinner. However, there is no forward motion without at least a little bit of downward pressure (the pressure may increase if the work piece is more crooked). That being said, in the video you push from behind with one hand keeping the workpiece in touch with the table by applying very little downwards pressure with the other. My concern with applying this pressure on the infeed table (sometimes even right on top of the spinning blade) is one related to safety: Should your fingers slip at some point they will do so in front or right on top of the knives, since the guard you have on the jointer is not fixed in place this may result in an accident (though even with others that can be fixed I would always prefer to have my leading hand behind the knives). Were you applying downwards pressure on the outfeed table i.e. behind the knives, slipping would be less dangerous.
As pertains to the set up you describe (knife TDC same height as the outfeed table) I have always found that the manufacturers themselves do not recommend it. Unfortunately my current machine does not allow for such a tight setting, since the tables are not precise enough. Nevertheless, if the tables are co planar and the knives are adjusted as you describe I don't see how the position of the hands should affect the results of the jointing process?
Finally, rereading my comment, I realize I might have come across as impolite, for which I'd like to apologize (tip to the head to you for answering so calmly). Still, while many ways to achieve the same result may exist, I believe the achievement itself is not the only factor to consider. Repeatability i.e. safety is of great importance as well.
The machine not even switch on,,,no shaving, no dust etc,,hence talk over vid.
I'm not sure what you are referring to. Which section of the video? I assure you the machine was run and most shavings were taken by the dust collector. With a decent dust collector the shavings' extraction is quite good.
His voice is really annoying