Video

Thanks for your feedback and insight...My use of the bar in this video was to support and hold up the front of the engine while replacing the motor mounts. (The transmission, transfer case and drivelines are in place.) As you can see in the video, I am far forward of the firewall and master cylinder. To your point, if supporting the rear of the engine (like during a transmission/transfer case removal) it would be important not to have the bar interfere with the brake master cylinder, booster or any other vital parts. This is a "universal" tool, which requires good judgment and adjustments for each use.

A Saginaw rotary valve power steering gear senses (measures) the vehicle load or steering wheel force by way of a torsion bar that runs inside the gear's hollow stub shaft. The torsion bar is pinned to the stub shaft's upper splined end; the pin can be seen at the coupler splines with the coupler removed. (The torsion bar can be seen at the top of the splined stub shaft.) The torsion bar runs through the hollow stub shaft and into the valve body's end cap. The torsion bar is pinned to the end cap. The torsion or twisting resistance is between the stub shaft's splined section and the valve body end cap. The end cap mates with the spool valve. The spool valve helps direct pressurized fluid to one side or the other of the rack piston. This pressurized fluid from the valve body assembly provides the power assist...Usually, the valve body requires nothing more than thorough cleaning. The torsion bar is seldom an issue or weak component. When there is a clear problem like the torque to move the spool valve is too light, the stub shaft assembly (including the torsion bar and end cap) would be replaced as a unit...I have never modified or machined a stub shaft's torsion bar and do not recommend doing so. There are other ways to increase the power assist and make the steering "easier". Heavy steering, especially at low engine speeds, usually has other causes. First, I would test the power steering pump to make sure it is producing the right pressure with the engine at an idle speed. This is when the vehicle is parked and needs the most power assist. A weak pump or low pressure setting (valving issue) could create too little power assist at low engine speeds. The other issue is flow or fluid volume even if the pump produces the right pressure. Flow can be restricted by a deteriorating hose, kinked hose, defective valves at the gear's fluid inlet and outlet, or a restriction within the steering gear. Both the pressure and return hoses must be in good condition...Increasing the pump pressure and volume could make steering lighter, but too much pressure is not good, either. It can damage seals or rupture a pressure hose. If the gear has been assembled properly and is sealing well, the pump may be at fault. If the gear is worn or has been rebuilt improperly, the Teflon rings may not be sealing properly at the valve body or between the rack piston and the steering gear's bore. A pressure loss here would decrease the power assist and make the steering feel heavy.

On our Ram truck, I did all of the necessary valve body mods from Sonnax and BD Performance. (See 4wdmechanix.com/survival-upgrades-for-jeep-and-dodge-ram-automatic-transmissions/ and 4wdmechanix.com/ram-truck-47re-and-48re-transmission-in-chassis-survival-upgrades-from-bd-diesel-performance/ for details.) My "failure prone" 48RE has survived well, now approaching 200K miles, it's never been on my workbench yet. The 01M Jetta transmission has yet to show trouble, though this four-speed automatic has plenty of critics. The four-speeds are one drawback, though the bigger concern is a complete failure. I am following closely on upgrades. The OEM transmission still shifts and holds fine at 114K miles. A planned fluid change will help with its survival...If/when the time comes, I'll be the one to rebuild the 01M, using whatever upgrades make sense. Some go for a manual transmission conversion, and that's always an option.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel hell yeah that's awesome! I'm about to install the high dollar valve body with sonax solenoids and a new wiring harness into my 01M. She's sitting with 228k so "barely broken in." 😂 I had a MKIV sedan with the ALH and a 5 spec manual and I'm kicking myself in the butt for reading that motor for the wagon to some extent. If the manual completely craps out on me I'll be throwing a 6 speed from an R32 or something similar into it.

We're on the same path with the 01M. Driving technique and fluid changes can extend the life of any automatic transmission. (The supposed "lifetime" fluid is ridiculous.) Most wear is during harsh upshifts. I'm experimenting with how many miles can be squeezed from a 01M when driven sensibly.

Well, Fluidampr helped here. They redesigned the Cummins damper to allow a belt change without removing the damper. The earlier applications from Fluidampr would not allow this. You may have an earlier Fluidampr, and if so, I am sorry that you need to do the extra work! See the part number comparisons and footnotes at the Fluidampr website. Let us know what you discover.

You're welcome, glad the video was helpful for your axle work! Thanks for your comments and subscription, they encourage more content like this video.

The instructions should detail the full curing time. 24-hours would be plenty in normal temperatures and atmospheric conditions. As I recall, the partial cure times are discussed in the instructions...If in doubt about when to safely expose the patch to gasoline, Tech-Bond Solutions has details and an email contact address at its website. They will respond.

You're welcome...Glad this helps. These products are unique, which caught my attention originally. The concept and method of application are entirely different than what most of us have tried without success. Saving the Jeep fuel tank was big. These tanks are either obsolete or costly. When a replacement tank or upgrade is not available at a reasonable fare, we turn to used tanks that are a crapshoot. This route is certainly worth a try. I carry a Tech-Bond Solutions "kit" with my off-road tools. If we never need to make a repair on our own vehicle, we may be able to help others on a trail or remote backroad.

It's held up very well, no leaks or issues. Tech-Bond Solutions does a lot of work with plastic tanks, it's their niche. The Tech-Bond website and their CZcams videos go into detail about the process. (This is way beyond glues or epoxy products that will not bond these plastics.) Steps take a while and require close attention...A new larger tank like this can be expensive and hard to find. I'm glad this worked for us. Most folks wind up in a recycling yard taking a chance on a used tank.

During that era, I used the Advance Adapters Ranger "Torque Splitter" that commonly went between a Chevrolet V8 bellhousing and an SM465 Muncie truck 4-speed. 0.73% overdrive and a rugged torque rating made the two-speed Ranger gearbox popular. Though no longer manufactured due to alternative conversions like an NV4500 or NV5600 transmission, or the new Tremec TR4050 design that Steve Roberts and I discuss in the video, the Ranger Torque Splitter would work well with an SM465 4-speed in a 2WD hauler. If you cannot find a used Torque Splitter, a used NV4500 or NV5600 conversion might be cost-effective. The Saturn Overdrive is exclusively for a Model 18 Jeep or early Scout application and would be too light duty for your truck's torque and load requirements. The Saturn is designed to fit in the PTO opening of the Model 18 Spicer transfer case.

It's too hard to start bro😢😢 can u help me to find a decompression cam 😢😢

You asked about a decompression camshaft...For my XR650R top engine build, I added a HotCams Stage 1 camshaft (mild grind) that eliminates the factory auto-decompressor mechanism. The handlebar compression release lever is used during kick starting. With the ignition switched off (Baja Designs dual sport conversion kit), I carefully bring the piston to TDC on the compression stroke then push the kickstart lever lightly to bring the piston just past TDC. Ignition turned ON, compression release level off, I kick through firmly. Tuned right, the engine starts on the first or second kick without kickback. This is a traditional starting method for high compression thumpers that I first used with my 1969 BSA 441 Victor Special single.

Yah bro u changed ur decompression cam & u installed HOT CAMS its detailed in ur video itz hard to find parts in our country (SL) wht did u do to ur decompression cam

The original camshaft with auto-decompressor went to a friend who has built/restored an XR650R. He had a similar problem to yours: no parts available. I was able to help him out. My choice to use the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft is "permanent". I am very pleased with using the manual compression release to carefully bring the piston just past TDC on its compression stroke before kicking through. Without kickback, the engine will start with one to two kicks. I plan to do a video on that starting procedure at the motorcycle channel: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel.com. Join us there!

bro where we can buy it

You're welcome. Glad this is helpful...Your subscription is valued, too.

Glad this helped...

Try Revzilla...They and other vendors sold TCI Products. Revzilla may know the current status of TCI Products or any successor brand that may offer these products. Moose Racing sold these products as well, and Revzilla has a PDF installation sheet available at www.revzilla.com/assets/0004/1220/moose_racing_expedition_rear_top_rack_honda_xr650_r20002007.pdf that covers the XR650R. It might be worth contacting Moose Racing...I worked with TCI a decade ago, they had a loyal following around rugged luggage racks and engine guard solutions. For the XR650R, an under fender brace is a must for either the top-only Borrego rack or the Sequoia rack for top and side saddle luggage. Important to note, the Honda XR650R rear frame extensions with 6mm, factory tapped holes are not optimal support for hefty loads. At the motorcycle channel (youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel), we have discussed load limits. Even with the superior braces and engineering from TCI Products, I have limited my loads based on the motorcycle's rear frame extension tubing size and tapped holes. These extensions were not intended for heavy rear loads. In fairness to Honda, this bike was engineered for open desert racing...I am running the lighter Borrego rack (top-only plus the under fender brace) now, reducing the bike's cargo weight to 15 pounds when riding two-track or single track. With the Sequoia rack in place, I limit my outdoor and filming gear weight to 30 pounds maximum. This plus the weight of the TCI Sequoia rack, Nelson-Rigg soft luggage and TCI's under fender brace make plenty of mass. Look closely at your bike's rear frame support(s) before plunging. TCI designed the under fender brace to distribute the load more evenly, but there are limits.

Before attempting to fabricate this piece, try McMaster-Carr or MSC Direct. I find chromium ball bearings (close tolerance, properly hardened), machinery parts and industrial items like the part you need at these sources. Beyond that, Advance Adapters (phone 1-800-350-2223 and ask for tech support) is a direct dealer for Aisin and offers complete, brand new AX15s. They may have some parts on hand or, more likely, transmission cores or used parts like the pin you need.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Appreciate your advice, sadly no luck. I found many components somewhat close in size from McMaster but at that point we may as well turn from new stock and go through the motions, we shall see in time how it holds up. Follow up question, at the shift tower now, installing restrictor pins. One feels a lot stiffer than the other to compress. Do you know which side this one goes on? The overhaul manual does not differentiate. I would guess 5-R is stiffer, either from lack of use, or for user comfort shifting in usual driving conditions?

Another idea on the missing locating pin: Look for a similar dowel pin. Automotive machine shops and other applications create a market for replacement dowel pins. Sources for dowel pins by size include Fastenal. I looked at their website and found a lengthy sizing list at www.fastenal.com/product/Fasteners/Pins/Dowel%2520Pins?query=dowel+pins&categoryId=600111. (Your measurement is very close to 3/16" U.S. or 4.78mm. Fastenal shows steel and stainless, U.S. and metric sizing. I would prefer a hardened steel for this application; you could inquire about hardness and the alloy.) Also, and simpler yet, the mainshaft pin is Mopar Part Number 83506008 ("Mainshaft Pin"). I ran the number in a search and immediately turned this up: www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-pin-mainshaft~83506008.html. The part is still in the Mopar system and not very expensive...Regarding the tower, your theory makes sense, as we can feel this during shifts to reverse or 5th. If so, the design would reduce the risk of accidentally dropping the shifter into reverse instead of fourth gear or fifth/overdrive instead of third gear...Make certain you have the interlock springs, pins, balls and plugs in order at the shift rails. This part of the assembly is crucial for the right shift fork and rail interaction.

Glad this helps...The play is only removed over the dead center point of the gear. There is a "high point" here on the sector mesh where a specified, slight drag is measured as shown in the video. If you attempt to remove play (backlash) at the left or right steering extremes, the gear will bind over the center. The play at the two extremes (left or right) is "normal" as long as the over-center slight drag is properly established. All of this assumes that the power rack's bearing race, the ball bearings, the worm shaft bearing groove, the power rack teeth and the sector teeth are in good condition and within specification. If you're puzzled why play is "okay" at the two extremes, the front wheel caster angle and other steering geometry create resistance that removes the backlash in actual service...When the front end is aligned properly (especially caster), the wheels want to return to center naturally. This force removes the left/right extremes play or backlash within the steering gear.

The website for Tech-Bond Solutions is: tbbonding.com/. Tech-Bond Solutions also has a CZcams channel: czcams.com/channels/uVmMaSceoqNT5Oi32-JptQ.html. Both sites have more information on the product and company. The website has a store and cart.

At 12-minutes into the video, I share the vacuum filler method that has become popular. My only concern is that this method of filling the system does collapse the radiator hose(s). (You'll see the upper hose collapsed in my demonstration.) For a hose in new or newer/good condition, this should not be a hardship or cause trouble. An older hose could be an issue. Once vacuum is established and held with the tool, the siphon hose gets placed in the gallon jug(s) or a tub with clean coolant and water mix. (I bought a plastic cement mixing tub just for this purpose and keep the tub clean.) If you do not want to buy a vacuum filler kit (inexpensive at Harbor Freight, Amazon, eBay, etc.), the traditional method you describe will work. Heat on high, the fan speed is more for keeping the heater core from overheating than anything else...Fill the radiator to the filler neck and the overflow tank/reservoir to above its fill level. After warm-up to normal operating temperature, the engine is shut off and allowed to cool down. Coolant mix siphons into the radiator and replaces air in the cooling system. Level the coolant in the reservoir...After several warm-up/cool down cycles, the siphoned coolant from the reservoir eliminates all air in the cooling system. The reservoir must remain at least at its fill level during this cycling back and forth. Turning the heater on is always wise when using this method. Do not let the engine overheat, as there may be air gaps within the coolant. When normalized, drive the truck; after parking and cool down, watch the coolant level in the reservoir for several trips. Burping the system this way, always keep the coolant level normal in the reservoir.

At 11:40-minutes, I explain the use of a blunt end impact driver which often works well. I then demonstrate the puller you ask about: This is a Miller 6790 flange with a long stem from my puller set. The flange is actually for rotating Jeep/Chrysler semi-floating rear axle shafts when checking the function of a Trac-Lok differential. On a Jeep semi-floating rear axle, the wheel nuts secure this tool to the axle flange. The 6790 tool is used with a short bolt through the center threads. A dial torque wrench rotates the bolt head when checking the Trac-Lok. In this improvisation on the 11.5" pinion flange application, I installed a longer, threaded puller stem into the 6790 tool. As you can see, the flange gets bolted to the AAM pinion flange. The threaded stem exerts force against the pinion shaft's end, which separates the two pieces...The official factory tool for pulling the Ram 11.5" pinion flange is the Miller 8992 puller. The 9.25" companion flange removal tool is the 6719A Miller. It looks much like the 8992. Advance Adapters makes a stout universal pinion flange removal tool that uses the same principle as the 8992 and 6719A or my improvised use of the Miller 6790. The Advance Adapters P/N 716400 tool fits popular Dana and other yoke flange applications. Here is the link: www.advanceadapters.com/5410. Give Advance Adapters a call and ask whether the 716400 puller will work with your AAM 11.5" and 9.25" flanges: 1-800-350-2223.

I can share a few personal anecdotes from my trail testing experience over time. In the early nineties, with one of the earlier, lighter iterations of the Pull-Pal, I did a test on a somewhat steep hardpan incline. To my surprise, the Pull-Pal shovel point broke into the hardpan only a few inches but was able to anchor soundly, enough for the winch to pull the Jeep CJ up the hill. The device was stable. Kept upright, it worked under these conditions. On another occasion, equally surprising, I witnessed a Pull-Pal and winch self-recover a Jeep stuck in snow. A Pull-Pal's physics want to drive the shovel downward and hold. As long as the downward grip will match the winch force, the device is useful. Sand and gravel are predictable recoveries...Others may have experiences to share that are similar or unique. Please share! Personally, I would not go to any remote destination without a Pull-Pal onboard.

You're welcome, glad this video is helpful!

Good question! Very interesting that the audio stops around halfway through. I'll look for the original "Part 4" in my archives and upload this video again...Thanks for sharing your discovery. Very helpful!

I'm pleased that it worked and saved you a costly labor sublet. I appreciate your feedback, too. Enjoy your truck...

Leak detector dye is like adding refrigerant-with the A/C operating. Follow the charging steps for your vehicle's system when adding a dye. With many leak testing kits, leaks become visible with UV light. There are also Harbor Freight to commercial grade wand-type testers that can test for a refrigerant leak without adding dye to the system. These testers "sniff" the hoses, connections, condenser, compressor seals, HVAC plenum and any other place where refrigerant might leak. The electronic tester is sensitive to refrigerant.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks you.👍👍👍👍👍

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel but if my system is full of refrigerant already ,just turn on Ac and add the leak detector. Right?

There is generally room for dye detector without overloading the system. However, I always use and recommend gauges when performing this kind of work. I watch the pressure and keep the system within the normal operating pressure ranges for the ambient temperature.

The Atlas transfer case is a fully gear-drive (non-chain) unit. It is "part-time" 4x4 and must be manually shifted from 2WD high range into 4WD high and 4WD low range-or front drive/dig only low-range. The unit has the kind of stamina available in legendary gear-drive units like the New Process 205 often found in late sixties, seventies and eighties 4x4 GM, Dodge and Ford heavier duty trucks. The part-time 4x4 NP205 was still a heavy-duty option into the 1990s.

Sorry about the I-29 abrupt exit! The 4.6L build is not much more cost wise than thoroughly rebuilding a stock 4.0L. Additional things needed are a 4.2L crankshaft (or a new Scat unit) and the right rod/piston combination. The rest would be the same concerns you have with a stock rebuild: new camshaft/lifters, bearings, block machining, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head rebuilding and making sure the pushrod lengths are correct after the head and block deck machining. Good shops are familiar with this "4.6L" stroker build. I like a "torque/RV" camshaft (more valve lift and mild valve opening duration) with compression around 8.7:1 for a wider range of fuel octane choices. This is a low-end torque and good fuel mileage build. Higher compression and a performance camshaft require 318/5.2L V8 Mopar or 302 Ford V8 injectors. The 302 Ford V8 injectors are common for many 4.6L builds. (See 4WD Mechanix Magazine for more details.)

Try the AAM (American Axle and Manufacturing) website (aam.com) or aftermarket@aam.com. AAM supplies 11.5" axles and components (including aftermarket) for both Ram and GM.

Your specifications do apply to my 2005 Ram 3500 11.5" AAM rear axle as illustrated in the video. Chrysler/Ram recommends 207 ft. lbs. torque (2005 Ram FSM Page 3-334 used for this application), using Loctite 242 (Blue) on clean threads. (See the video's details between 40:26-41:51 minutes.) Be aware that specifications vary between AAM, GM, Chrysler and aftermarket service references. The safest approach is to consult the factory shop/service manual for your truck make and model. Note that the AAM 11.5" and 9.25" axle torque specifications differ.

When using a tool like the CompCams gauge for pushrods, you would want the rocker arm fully seated (factory torque on the rocker nut) with the camshaft on the lobe heel (lowest point). The length of the pushrod gauge should be the distance between the rocker arm's pocket and the lifter's cup with the lifter plunger fully extended. At this point you add the amount of preload needed to the pushrod/gauge length. That would be the desired pushrod length...I add details at this forum reply: forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/1306-amc-jeep-232-258-42l-and-25l-valve-lifter-clearance-and-valvetrain-noise/#comment-9230.

I rode with Jake over the Rubicon Trail, his flat-fender had a highly functional trail suspension system. Jake worked out the bugs over many years, ultimately creating a durable system for hardcore trails...He was a great friend and is missed by family and all who knew him.

This should be workable! Give the Advance Adapters tech support folks a ring at 1-800-350-2223. The Atlas has a wide range of mounting possibilities and often replaces an NP/NV231. I would envision a ready fit between the Rubicrawler and the Atlas with the possible need for driveline length correction (not a deal breaker and quite common). Tech support can provide details.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel legendary. Thank you kindly for the feed back and response. Great demonstration, no where else on CZcams talking about this 🙏🏽🤙🏾

Glad this is helpful...The Rubicrawler is valuable equipment. For 42RLE automatic transmission Jeep (TJ and JK) owners, this is a sensible solution for off-road crawling and extreme low gearing without major modifications to the powertrain or vehicle. The fit is ingenious for a stock transfer case installation and saves considerable effort. Adding an Atlas, in your case, would make the powertrain that much more versatile and rugged!

You're very welcome, glad this is helpful...That's the intent!

Thanks for the feedback...I did this for people like you!

Glad it was helpful! I appreciate the feedback...Thanks!

I understand your frustration...Autel has shifted focus to the Ultra and 919, which have built-in oscilloscope functions. I had the MP408 before the MS906TS and actually like the standalone oscilloscope. (It's similar to a 4-channel PICO automotive scope at far less cost. PICO does offer a troubleshooting library, which the MP408 does not.) If you do want an MP408, search the market, there are suppliers who may still offer the MP408 and have them available. It's worthwhile to have the MP408 along with the optional OAK accessories kit. The later scan tools are terrific-and expensive. The annual subscriptions for software updates can be costly, too. I find that with my 1999 to 2005 vehicles, the original software that came with the MS906TS works well. I have not needed to update software yet. If you run a shop with an annual need to update for the latest vehicles, a subscription renewal would be necessary.

Thank you for the reply, I don’t know if it’s true but also heard the mp408 will only operate on the older Android operating systems 4.4 The ms906pro tc is Android 7 I did find a mp408 brand new for $600 Canadian but just don’t know if worth it . Might just sell my ms906 pro tc has updates until July 2025 and buy the ultra

Compare the cost and added value. The Ultra does have a built-in oscilloscope function, which is a major benefit. Subscription renewals are costly, though, so consider that in the overall cost. The MP408, if practical, does not require updates, it's a universal tool that addresses voltage-based devices and is not dependent on ECM/ECU data streams. (I highly recommend the OAK accessory kit upgrade if you do buy an MP408.) It's an entirely different premise with the oscilloscope. We're analyzing the actual sensors and electrical devices. Add a pressure transducer, and this can even include in-cylinder pressure testing of a running engine! Scanners and oscilloscopes complement each other but serve different goals. The Ultra makes sense if you need a high-end scan tool with many extra functions, including the oscilloscope and a signal generator.

Thanks for the feedback...Glad this is helpful!

Paul, I appreciate the support and feedback...Your air filter issue is a deja vu. That was the start of my top engine build. I bought the bike not running and did not start it until after the top rebuild shared in the video. Let us know what you think of the HSR 42 Mikuni on your XR650R...The motorcycle channel will be moving fast-forward in April as I complete the shop/studio space. Based on viewer/subscriber interests, expect a steady stream of tech and riding. (My XR650R will have a starring role!) There's travel planned for this riding season with uploads to youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel.

Sorry you have not resolved the issue...I wish you success in finding an answer, perhaps through Autel.

Thank you, sir. I will try to contact the company, and I will inform you of the news🫡

You're welcome, and thanks for the feedback. Have you tried reloading the software update? I would try that first and see whether the Bluetooth restores. If that does not work, it would be worthwhile to contact Autel customer or tech support with this issue. They may have a download or "patch" to share or suggestions on how to make a third party Bluetooth driver work with the software. Let us know how this turns out and what caused the issue. Thanks.

Thank you for your quick response, Mr. Moses. At that time, I received a notification from the company saying that you must update the software. Indeed, I made this (fateful) update 🤭. After completing the update, I found this problem: I cannot connect via Bluetooth! When I go to the Bluetooth file, I find it empty. I am using it via a USB cable. Thank you very much for your cooperation

Have you re-paired the VCI to your Bluetooth? This could be a pairing issue. You have USB, which is good. Try the pairing steps. Be sure that the Autel VCI app is available for pairing. See if that restores the Bluetooth. This would be similar to pairing a cell phone and Bluetooth app.

Not clear whether you have the internal or external slave cylinder. The internal slave (hydraulic release bearing) requires bleeding by the factory steps in the shop manual. This could be an issue...Otherwise, I would check the pedal height to make sure the master cylinder piston retracts completely when the pedal releases. This will provide a full master cylinder stroke and enough fluid volume to disengage the clutch. The slave or master cylinder may have a worn seal that leaks down or bypasses fluid; however, that usually comes with a visible fluid leak. Check for fluid at the pedal rod boot of the master cylinder. If an external slave, watch the clutch release arm when the system is hot and pedal depressed. Make sure the release arm moves. If not, there is a hydraulic cylinder issue. Make sure you are on level ground, wheels chocked with the transmission in neutral when testing the release arm movement. If an internal hydraulic release bearing and not new, they are notorious for leaking or bleeding down. Try bleeding the hydraulic release bearing before condemning it.

Glad this was valuable and thanks for the feedback. I have rebuilt each of the Saginaw manual and power steering gears "by the book". The pioneer Saginaw power unit was the "Offset" design, followed by the "Inline" gears that offered a recirculating ball-and-nut arrangement. In 1959, GM introduced the Rotary Valve recirculating ball and power rack piston gear that we know commonly today. If you're curious about GM's power steering gear history, I did an article for the magazine at: 4wdmechanix.com/trailer-rebuilding-saginaw-rotary-valve-integral-power-steering-gear/.

Off-road, you can use either the transmission's first gear or drive with the Rubicrawler. Be aware, though, that the Rubicrawler gear reduction is much lower. I suggest coming to a stop before moving the gear shifter to 1st gear. Otherwise, the steep gear reduction will be much like slamming on the brakes. Practice this safely.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thank you, just bought a 2008 JK with rubicrawler installed on it ,and i had no idea what was that until a friend told me. so I'm trying to learn how to use it.

Glad my comments were helpful. Again, in the transfer case low range and especially the Rubicrawler's lower gear, bring the vehicle to a stop or very slow crawl when downshifting from "D" to "L" (first gear) in your 42RLE automatic transmission.

You're very welcome...Come join us at youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel for more videos like this. The channel is devoted to motorcycle how-to and riding. My XR650R is a regular there!

You're welcome...Glad this was helpful. I have launched a parallel channel with motorcycle content only that you would like: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel. Join us there, we'd value your participation!

Very good point...On a trail 4x4, every inch of clearance is necessary. Low-hanging pieces are apt to get snagged. An oil drain point would be a bad place to have a leak...Good call here!

Thanks for sharing your experience. It's helpful to others.

Glad your approach worked and saved time. I did mostly the factory service manual method. Thanks for sharing.

That's a good question for the folks at Advance Adapters. There are many Atlas configurations, and it's likely your Ram can be outfitted. Shift linkage is an issue to discuss as well...Give tech a call at 1-800-350-2223.

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks. I thought the linkage was cable ? Is so, it shouldn't be too bad. It's my daily, with a little off-roading, I'm sure an Atlas will be bullet proof.

Yep, cable in several configurations. The Atlas is used "universally". Your transmission output is common, as is the Ram's OEM transfer case. Driveline and U-joint fit is a consideration with a transfer case changeout. You have a slip-yoke output now and will need to make the rear driveline compatible with the Atlas. Front shaft length could be another concern. This is remedied with custom driveshafts. Advance Adapters can clarify...There should be a path forward here. Yes, an Atlas would be "bulletproof" with your powertrain.

That's the tire alone. Add the aftermarket wheels, and each wheel/tire assembly is around 102 pounds with my 8-lug Raceline rims.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel that’s not bad at all. I have them on my factory 17x8 polished wheels.

We have similar wheel/tire setups...Weight is especially not bad when I rotate the tires with a Gaither/Winntec Wheel Dolly...very manageable!

Yes, Autel offers an annual software subscription with updates. There is a fee for renewal of the subscription. My MS906TS scanner came with the first load of software and coverage. The coverage and updates were live for a year. After a year, if I did not renew the subscription, updates stopped. For some users, the original software load and updates during the first year are enough. A commercial shop that keeps adding newer model vehicles to its customer base would require an annual subscription renewal. If the original software has all the information you need, the software does remain active in the scan tool after the first year. The only risk is that any corrections or updates that might come with later software are not in the scanner unless you renew the subscription. For example, my MS906TS covers our 2003 Jetta, 2005 Ram 3500 and the 1999 XJ Cherokee (each is OBD-II). The original software seems to be reliable and works well. If we were to purchase a 2024 vehicle and did not have the latest software, that vehicle would not be in the scan tool's software. A subscription renewal would be needed for the latest vehicle coverage...Regarding the tests the tool can perform, that always depends on the OBD-II information available to the vehicle's ECM/ECU or PCM. If there is a fuel pressure sensor in the system feeding information or live data to the vehicle's onboard computer, the MS906TS will display and monitor that reading and PIDs. Available data and tests for my vehicles provide a lot of OBD-II information. (Contact Autel if you need to know more about what the scan tool can test on your vehicle or vehicles.) As for diagnosing the ignition or compression, any ignition data that normally streams to the ECM/ECU or PCM as part of OBD-II diagnostics can be read and displayed by the scan tool. However, this scan tool by itself is not an oscilloscope. It will partner with the separate Autel MP408 oscilloscope module for electrical tests, displaying or monitoring spark firing lines, tailpipe pressure tests or readings from an in-cylinder pressure transducer. To understand how the MS906TS MaxiSys scan tool works with the MP408 oscilloscope module or an Autel digital inspection camera, download a copy of the MS906TS instructions at: www.autel.com/u/cms/www/202212/010837130cp4.pdf. This PDF also explains all of the MS906TS functions and tests. I did a video on the use of my Autel MaxiScope MP408 at: czcams.com/video/_-2rYaPhOVU/video.html. Regarding compression tests, you can perform a "dynamic compression test" with the MS906TS scan tool. Here, you switch off each cylinder's injector in sequence. The scan tool measures the rpm drop for each cylinder. If a cylinder shows very little rpm drop (less than the other cylinders tested), and if the fuel supply/injector and spark are good for that cylinder, the cylinder is not pulling enough load. Compression at that cylinder is likely low and should be checked with a traditional compression gauge or a cylinder leakdown test. Valve lift should also be checked at that cylinder.

Glad it helped! That's the intent...The Fluidampr has worked well on my 5.9L Cummins engine. It helps contribute to engine longevity.