Video

There's also thousands of people who do not read the manual because they DON'T HAVE a manual! There's an entire used car market out there with cars that were sold or traded in where the original owner didn't leave the manual with the car. Not to mention that visual demonstrations can be helpful. Otherwise what would be the point of any demo, or training, or school teachers for that matter, it's all in a book right?

If you're using them on the street daily I definiltely wouldn't go with a 4" wheel anyway. Once in a while like for going to car shows or the track is fine, but if it's a daily, that's just too narrow, plus you sacrifice handling.

​@Scavenger1320 ya I might keep the 17x9 with spacers and longer studs what you think?

Size 17 x 9.5" Bolt Circle 5 x 115" Back Space 6.13 Offset 22.5 Load 1580 Wheel Weight 20 ​@@Scavenger1320those are the specs say back space is 6.13

@@TheMReastside Specs sound about right. I know my 17x10s have a 6.5" backspace so that should be good. Not sure on offset but it sounds right and I feel backspace is more important. Only thing that would worry me is the use of spacers. I've seen several horror stories where the spacers put extra stress on the bearing and studs by pushing the weight further out and end up snapping studs or wearing out the bearings faster. I know a lot of people that have used them without any issues too, but it's still something you'll want to pay attention to.

​@Scavenger1320 nice I can't wait to get off work and try them I don't daily usually just to work on Friday about 20 miles round trip and to some shows on Saturdays might have to upload a video if they work out also the guy that build my car said we can do longer stronger studs if worse comes to worse but he thinks I'll be fine to cause my 17×11s are pretty much same backspacing

It should definitely come with an owners manual, I haven't heard of them not coming with them anymore and I found physical copies being sold online so you should have gotten one. I would first check with your dealer for it, and if they're not helpful I'd just contact Jeep's customer service, which I think is that Jeep Wave or Jeepcares on social media. I know sometimes the owners manual set comes in a plastic bag mixed with other things from the factory for the dealer to go through during PDI. I could easily see whoever was doing the PDI pulling everything out and then forgetting to put the owners manual back in.

@@Scavenger1320 Thanks for the reply! Contacted my selling dealer, was told Jeep stopped printing copies of the Owners Manual, and they couldn't order me one. Went and found one on Amazon, ordered it today, $130.00. Nuts.

thanks for watching!

That's what I've heard about the drivers side. I knew about the steering column being in the way, forgot about the dipstick there too though. I definitely would have done the welding route except for the fact that I don't have any welding equipment, or even know how to weld lol, so it would actually be tougher, more expensive, and take more time for me to do that since I'd have to buy the equipment and then learn welding first lol.

As long as you leave the actuators plugged in and just tie them off to the side somehow then no, you shouldn't get a light. That is as long as your car is a 2019 or newer and not a 5.7

I usually try to only go until just before the low fuel light comes on and then add some gas to get it back up to a 1/4 tank. One time I didn't have any extra gas though and I think I ended up making about 2 or 3 runs after the low fuel light came on and didn't notice any fuel starvation issues, but I definitely wouldn't run that low again.

Zip ties might be easier, but I wouldn't say better personally. I'm going to trust metal being next to a hot exhaust more than I would plastic, but I know others that have used zip-ties too, I just wouldn't myself. Glad the free method worked for you too and thanks for watching

I honestly never noticed any alignment tabs, I'll have to take a closer look next time I pull my mirror off, I just kind of eyeball it and have done it so many times now it's pretty easy. That cable can definitely get in the way too. Thanks for watching!

Nope, none at all and I've had it for about 3 and a half years now

@@Scavenger1320 I’ve seen some videos on frame problems, when going over bridges that the hitch is so strong that it can bend the tube steel on the tongue I got the 12,000 because I have a 1000 pound tongue weight so I’m 3800 pounds under the GVW of my trailer but I’m 200 pounds under the tongue weight so that’s why I got that, good video on the hitch working thanks for sharing and the comments

@@brianbelliveau5551 I haven't seen any of those, but if it's bending the steel of the tongue on the trailer my first thought is that's more a reflection of possible poor quality of the trailer than a problem with the hitch. I know mines holding up good, even after those 5 miles of that extremely bumpy, rough road in South Dakota that I mentioned here in this vid. Things were a mess inside the trailer but the frame and hitch were all good, and that road really was that bad, so if driving over that didn't cause any catastrophic damage, not sure what else would. Although I wouldn't continuously drive over a road like that as I'm sure things will start weakening more over time.

Yes, I wouldn't tow without it anymore.

Yes, that's what most people do, especially if you just have a traditional lead-acid or AGM battery. In my case, since I have a Lithium battery, if I know I won't be driving my car for a month or more, I just disconnect it instead. The battery I have holds a charge pretty good when it's not connected to anything plus I have trust issues, especially with lithium lol

So I did a little bit of research on this. I know I get credit when you use one of my links and make purchases within 24 hours, as long as you don't click someone else's link within that time. Seems what matters most though is that after using one of my links, you add any items to your shopping cart within 24 hours. I copied this from a help question on Amazon: "As long as the item was added to the customer's Shopping Cart during this 24-hour window, you will still earn a referral commission if the order is placed before the Shopping Cart expires (usually after 90 days)...However, this 24-hour window closes once the customer submits his order or reenters Amazon.com through another Associate's link". So looks like that might be the only kind of shortcut. I need to spend some more time with it still to really learn all the options I have. Past couple months I've been making between 100-200 dollars a month from there. It's not a lot but every little bit helps and it's passive income in a way. And thanks again for making sure to use my links, I can't say how much I appreciate that.

As long as you don't open up the brake fluid system or get air in it somehow then you can get away without bleeding. I've probably done about 10 pad and rotor replacements on my vehicles and never bled them and know a lot of people who do the same. Really the only time you're messing with the fluid in any way is when you're compressing the caliper pistons back down which pushes the fluid back towards the reservoir. I do try to compress them slowly though, even though I'm not sure it really matters. I know there are people that claim you should bleed the system regardless just to be safe, but I doubt there's many. people that actually do. That all said, you are supposed to replace your brake fluid every so often so a pad and rotor change would be a good time to do that, in which case you would definitely have to bleed the system.

@@Scavenger1320 Just finished up and they turned out good. I did have a problem with the first back brake I did, and couldn’t get the rotor off. I figured it out. I had the parking braking on.😜Thanks again!!!

Half the stuff California does bugs me lol. Actually it wouldn't be that bad though, it's more about just being the slowest one out there and getting passed by every other RV'er on the road that gets to me. When I'm on smaller highways and roads with lower speed limits I have no problem. So if I ever make my way out there it won't bug me that much if I'm around other RV'ers that are going along at the same speed.

On the Challengers thats on the passenger side under the cowl behind the hood. I made a short showing it a while back, you can see it here: czcams.com/users/shorts8uBorA5lxbw?si=gQzLl18_UPHRt5Di

@@Scavenger1320 thank you

Thanks for watching and good luck!

I don't think it's about the foam itself retaining moisture, since I agree that this foam doesn't feel like it can absorb any, but more about it trapping moisture between it and the metal and not letting air pass by, thus keeping the moisture from evaporating.

Glad I could help and thanks for watching!

Going to headers is a great option, but they normally are a warranty voider so I'd definitely make sure about that, especially if you have a lifetime warranty. Thanks for watching!

How did you get a lifetime warranty?

@@Scavenger1320 yeah I dunno, I called the service writer at my dealer today and asked them about that and even after reminding him of the Magnussen Moss Act, he pretty much said that it wasn’t advisable because I guess due to the contract I signed but I told him it could be battled in a court room if I was to pursue it if I did it.

@@Spartansrule118 I got one while they were still offering them. I bought my truck brand new Christmas of ‘17 and I think it was like 2019 when they stopped offering the lifetime.

@@billplaisance6387 oh good for you. Wishing you all the best