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Täysin samanlaista ei saa mistään, koska oon ite tehny ton rungon ja asentanu sähköt siihen. Mutta lähes samanlaisia runkoja ja valmiitakin pyöriä on myynnissä kyllä. Käyppä katsomassa esim akkutehdas.com

Toi on 4T

On kyl :D

I bought this one. Im not sure how to make good quality diy ferrofluid

@@pajajaska can you share link you bought

@@pagungn fasterbikes.eu/en/accessories/hub-motor/219/10-ml-statorade-ferrofluid-magnetic-cooling-liquid

Thanks

Thanks

Actually I used lead free solder, but lead solder is better for sure

Thanks! Happy to hear that I inspired you👍

I haven't tried it

It was pure nickel

Hi, no I haven't swapped

@@pajajaska i have a problem with it. It's overheating and doesn't work under load.

@@diawixwant3470 you might have wrong phase/hall combination. What controller you are using?

@@pajajaska yuyang king 48-72v

If you take alot of current put of your battery copper is better, but its harder to weld than nickel.

Yea, its not long term test. I can't say if it does damage the cell on long term. And yes it would be better if I tested many cells

I have adjustable charger. I can charge any 0-120V batteries with it

In my opinion Molicel is maybe the best, but Samsung 30T, 40T and 40T3 are also great batteries for drill

Yea, there should be a translate buttons on the corner. If you want to spot weld copper you need to use nickel copper sandwitch method. So you put a nickel strip top and copper strip at the bottom. Its hard to spot weld only copper.

@@pajajaska Thank you for the info.

@@pajajaska I see you scratch the top of the battery or i'm wrong??. if you scratch then you doing it because the soldering point have better grip yes???

@@operatorpsiochy592 those cells had old spot welding marks, so I had to grind them flat. I have found that scratching the cell is not necessary if you want to solder cells. Just make sure its clean. But if the solder doesn't want to stick I would then try sanding the cells.

@@pajajaska Thank you for the answer😉

its rated only 1kW but with this setup maybe 3kW continously? But I'm not really sure. It does handle 10kW peaks, but definitely not continous.

3-4 max

dla Ciebie też

copper is better for high discharge batteries

@@pajajaska good i order copper strip

@@chrismagallanes8858 but be aware that copper is harder to weld than nickel

@@pajajaska bruh i just received the spot welder and it had nickel strips so which if i remember correctly the copper strips is for the series and the nickel so for the parallel

@@chrismagallanes8858 yes, for parallel connections you don't have to use copper. Series connections carry the current. What kinda battery you are building?

Yea, it would be interesting to see the battery on thermal camera when soldering

about 37hp

@@pajajaska i wanna make a like ktm 65 sized bike that can produce about 40hp can u help me i need more informaton what motor do u think can produce 40 hp

@@senjuwind7878 You could use for example qs138 70H, and use high drain cells like molicel p42a, samsung 30t or samsung 40t

@@pajajaska if i want insane torque and power which high rain cells would u recommend out of the 3?

@@pajajaska is there a pre built battery i can use that can produce 40 hp with the qs138?

Thanks!

yea, the increased internal resistance is the problem on really low temperatures

Its compatible with ant bms. I'm not sure if you could use it with other bms, but here is a link to it www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004169749145.html

if I remember right both are 0.2mm thick

Big and powerful soldering iron works fine for smalled lugs

Yea, this is only short term test. I'm not sure about long term affects. I have had couple soldered packs many years with no problems. Of course I can't really say if soldering has decreased the capacity on long term or not. But thanks for the additional info. I think that I will try to do my next battery with nickel/copper sandwich technique.

Funny rhing here. "1st World countries" worried if explosions and burns. the "3rd world" enjoy electric toys and expreriments.

I don't know average price, but I bought mine for 215€

@@pajajaska thanks where do you have bug this motor ?

@@beastmode-do6fp www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003098535607.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.25.5fedd07eY6Ot78&algo_pvid=bf5f1e36-0f30-4d44-a345-57e33782744e&algo_exp_id=bf5f1e36-0f30-4d44-a345-57e33782744e-12&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21190.44%21190.44%21%21%21200.82%21200.82%21%402101c67a17077619051833092ec47a%2112000024072850907%21sea%21FI%212540346826%21&curPageLogUid=191LisfyE8Na&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

I have also hydraulic crimper witch I almost always use

Juu, ei tuo kovin kummonen homma oo. Mulla oli joskus 1500w 35mm leveillä magneeteilla oleva hub moottori nii laitoinkohan mä siihen ehkä joku 6-7ml. Eli tohon sun moottoriin vamaan joku 7ml on ihan sopiva määrä. Itellä oli siinä 1500w moottorissa kelly kls7230s eli otin siitä lähes 10kW tehoa😅 Muutaman vuoden kesti kunnes magneettien liimaus petti. En nyt tarkkaan osaa sanoa paljonko kestää, koska se riippuu niin monesta tekijästä. Kyllä se ehkä sen 3-6kW kestää ihan hyvin, kunhan tarkkailee ettei kuumene liikaa

Hi..how to Made ferrofluid

Itse tehty 86,4V 36Ah akku Samsung 30T kennoista

Kiitti! Oon ite kasannu akun samsung 30t kennoista.

Tän videon alussa on muutama kuva akusta czcams.com/video/n3oIZRiIQlA/video.html&ab_channel=PajaJaska

Thats really cold🥶 I live in Finland

My family is all from Finland. Would love to visit some time. ​@@pajajaska

That would be interesting to see how it would work

yes 10 000w

It depends on your riding style, but average maybe around 20-30km

Thanks!

The spike tyres has really good grip on the snow