Video

haha, thanks, Brian!

Hey there, and thank you so much!

Thank you, and thanks for your feedback on the talking.

Thank you, my friend and miss you too! See you soon!

Hi, it's distilled water, but I'm not using that method anymore as I found it wasn't adding enough benefit.

@@kcdcdesigns Wow that was a prompt reply, took me by surprise due to the time difference between our country's, so thank you so much, I've been cramming video's the last couple of days trying to understand the issues we are having with the UTC and have to say that you are by far the best with your detail description and communication, so keep up the great work--from New Zealand thank you👍

@terrykelk12 you're very welcome, and thanks for the kind words!

I use Stone Coat epoxy, and purchase it from www.rk3designs.com

Very cool! Please keep me posted on how it goes and/or if I can be of any help.

Thank you, my Scottish friend! 😁

ALL of the colors used are shown in the video at the 0:15 mark, as well as listed in the description. How can I make that more clear?

You're welcome, Teresa! I'm curious about the crack, and how it got there and/or how deep? Feel free to email me with some pics and we'll see if we can work through it. Keith@kcdcdesigns.com

Thank you!

That's a great compliment, thank you (and hopefully the customer feels the same way 😁)

Thanks, Angie!

lol, thanks

Hey Chris, at 1:50 you can see where I did spritz it with isopropyl alcohol. I just didn't comment on it, or make a point of it. Good call though!

Thank you, Kathy! Alcohol Inks will fade, but not the alcohol dyes. Epoxy dyes (specifically Alumilite Dye, the same used to tint epoxy) are mixed in with 91% Isopropyl alcohol in the small applicator bottles. I normally only use those when creating projects using the Claramarble Technique, but I wanted to try them in this project as I can more pinpoint where I want them, and they don't spread as much as if I would have mixed the dyes in epoxy. Great question, and thanks again!

@@kcdcdesigns well, this piece was beautiful…thank you!

@@Kathy-Carr You're welcome and thanks again!

Yes, I'm editing it now! Thanks!

Thanks, Angie!

Thank you, Sharon! I wished the pics and videos showed more of how they look in person. I'm not personally a fan of the marble (might be a guy thing, lol), but it really is pretty and the added color (in this case brown) give it a nice touch. Thanks again!

This went in the men's bathroom at a local pool hall that I play pool leagues out of, so I see it fairly often, and honestly still looks like the day I installed it, in January of 2023. If epoxy countertops were not durable, or yellowed as some people claim ("yellowing is caused by user error), I wouldn't be installing them in customer homes. And I've been doing this full time for over 3 1/2 years.

Thank you!!!

4oz/sf which was plenty and didn't need to use a tape dam as their wasn't enough material to lose much over the edges. Great question, thx!

Thanks for the "D", but the chopped marble is over the top! Thank you!

Thanks, we really had fun getting creative with those colors!

Crazy how different they look when using the same colors! Thanks for the comment,,, and your support!!!

Thank you! (BTW, that's the second "D" I've seen, can you explain? Thanks, I'm old, LOL). And thank you for commenting!

The chopping really does take it to another level, thanks for you comment!!

🥰

What a great idea, and thanks!

I LOVE that idea! Now to find island resorts 😁. And thank you! We had a lot of fun.

OH MY GOSH.... I was thinking the same thing... except for MY Bar Top.

@@judichristopher4604 You can do it! Do you work with epoxy?

@@kcdcdesigns NOT yet... I am in the process of moving to Albuquerque New Mexico (US) to RE-Open my Acting Academy with a Mystery Dinner Theatre and we will need many Tables... and I would love to do this ... then.

@@judichristopher4604 I wish you the best with your business and would love to see what you create for your tables! You can get really creative with a project like that!!!

Thanks!

It's such a fun and versatile technique! Thanks for watching!

LOL, I love the silliness!!! The isopropyl is hit and miss on many designs, and I don't usually use it on the marbles, but experimenting helps know what helps and what doesn't. And I love the subtleness of the shooting star, which also shows up well with the UTC Natural, whereas the Diamond Dust doesn't. Thank you, and thanks for supporting my channel! I hope to have a few more up this weekend!

@@kcdcdesigns Oh, that is good to know about the Diamond Dust -- I would hate to put it into a project, only to have it not show through the UTC matte. Looking forward to the next batch of videos!

@@dkcN0va2109 Thanks for your comment!!

Thank you, and I use spritzing sparingly as some designs look better without, IMO. Thanks again!

The gloss topcoat has an unavoidable orange peel, the natural (matte) does not. Customers are always aware of how the finished product will look, and what to expect. We've yet to find a gloss topcoat that does not have an orange peel appearance, but still offering incredible durability.

Thank you kindly

Thanks!

If I recall correctly, I believe it's approximately 10' x 4'. I always seam MDF countertops upside down, so after seaming (using biscuits and epoxy as the adhesive) I then glue and screw a support piece expanding 8"-12" on each side of the seam. This way the seam is supported during transport and installation. In some cases if additional support is needed, I will router out a channel and epoxy in 1/2" square steel tubing as seen in this video: czcams.com/video/rTtgzaQ_TEQ/video.htmlsi=KL0pP7xxzRBfA7Wx Thanks for your question, and supporting my channel!

Thanks! That one was a challenge but really turned out cool, and exactly what the customer wanted (whew, lol).

Those cornhole boards have some very eerie images in them! And I'm sure it's because of the colors, because I have another set with light blues and greens with very pleasant images, lol. Crazy but also cool!

Yes i see them but still really cool bud

@@christie5914 thanks!!!

It's 3/4" MDF, did that answer your question?

@@kcdcdesigns yes thanks so much but what is the white part that the mdf is covered in also do you think mdf would be a sustainable material for table tops or would you recommend plywood?

For this technique using alcohol dyes, you need a smooth, slick surface. So this 3/4" MDF was painted white with Stone Coat's White Undercoat Paint, then a layer of Stone Coat epoxy over that at 3oz/sf and allowing it to cure at least 24 hours. Now you have a smooth, slick surface in which to apply this technique. Regarding MDF, I've been using it for countertops for over 4 years, and is recommended due to being so flat and having solid edges to work with (no plies/layers). MEDEX is a water resistant MDF that is even better if it's available in your area (MEDEX is a brand, there are other brands available as well). Plywood can be used but is not recommended due to, in many cases not being as "flat", may need to be "sealed" due to continuous air bubbles trying to escape, having to bondo the edges due to the plies, and also having so many different levels of quality of plywood. Marine plywood would likely be the best, but it's very pricey and you still have the layers on the edges to deal with. That's just my opinion, but MDF is the industry standard for epoxy countertops.

@@kcdcdesigns thank you so much that’s a massive help always wondered how they did it was looking to import resin marble tables for a business but found out it’s probably a lot better doing it myself being more work but cost effective again thank you so much please keep uploading this vids there great I watch them every day your that good also I am based in the uk so may need to find an alternative to the medex but thanks for all your help

Could you do a video on getting the boards ready before you epoxy them

That's awesome! I'd love to see what you create, please keep me posted! Keith@kcdcdesigns.com

Thank you so much! And I couldn't agree more regarding the gold!

I did, from planing the boards to pouring

Thank you! When Bruce Anderson from Anderson Woodworks came down for a few days he brought some SC Casting epoxy with him, otherwise I'd still be wanting to try it. The small one I did was great for a trial run. Go for it, You Got This! :)

Thanks, bro! I was adamant on using the Chameleon mica and I'm so glad I did. And I didn't stir or agitate it at all, that's how it poured out.

You can do it! And thank you!

Thanks! It used to be a coffee table that a friend of mine bought last year for $40 at an auction. I disassembled it and had to plane it to remove all the varnish that was on the pieces. Because it was a trial, I just had to assume there was no moisture content in it, but we figured the coffee table was 10-20 years old.