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This link has the correct info: www.fcpeuro.com/blog/how-to-replace-control-arms-end-links-tie-rods-ball-joints-bmw-e90-x1-325i-328i-330i-335i

If you have an earlier Miata, 90 thru 93 then you'll have a single plug for the ignitor vs 94 and up have two plugs for the 2 coil packs. The wiring in general is similar but I haven't seen a female plug for that sold that will go into your oem harness directly, unfortunately. What most do is cut off the plug from the oem side and wire it to your new cops harness directly. There are some decent diagrams here wiki.fome.tech/Vehicle-Specific/Mazda-MX5-Miata/Miata-COP-Conversion/

Some plastic jb weld works well on those clips. It may break again if you remove it a second time, but it will hold and not rattle.

@@OGPedXing Thank you. Good stuff. Going to put grease on the clips when I re install the hood.

It can vary. The number itself is somewhere from 0 to 255, so your setup and hardware needs 70 at idle while someone else with a 1.6 engine, other injectors will be lower. If your idle is stable and at the afr you want, then you are good. If your map is too high at the top (you're running a lot of boost and you are close to 255) you can modify required fuel and then bring your map numbers down. But usually, it won't matter.

@@OGPedXing okay now i can relax and just tune the car in peace. thank you😊

Running a few seconds is a good start...crank fuel is probably ok, and after start enrichment (ase) is enough but warm up enrichment is too low. For now increase that. You may need to up the fuel ve table in general, but you can get that fixed after warmup is done. Once your fuel ve is stable for idle, then you can decrease the warmup enrichment a bit because the next time you start, it will be rich. Ase and wue require a few cold starts to dial it in.

@@OGPedXing i cranked the warmup enrichemt to the moon and it worket well. i also had to move the location of missing tooth because it was too far away and it messed with timing when it started. thanks for the help!!

Thanks, much appreciated!

If your idle valve is just open closed rather than pulse width modulation, then you may need to do a manual adjustment with the idle screw. Almost always, idle rpm is going to be related to air and not fuel or spark.

@@OGPedXing yes, that is true. My idle valve had quite a big hole even when it was off

It's a bmw. It will leak. This was after fixing oil filter gasket leaks, though.

Haha, whatever 🤣 😂 😜

It comes with everything you need to connect to the stock wiring plus an extra wire and fuse that goes to direct to the fuse box's battery positive input so it can get extra amps than what the stock wiring can handle. But for the ignitor wiring, it just plugs right in.

I have Saab 2.0L turbo. It have 4 connectors and one is igf.

@honda636hp I checked and it's 5 pin: trigger, bat pos, bat negative, sensor ground, and engine ground. You may need to check what the ecu on the Saab requires. Some require a tacho out signal on the igf wire and I don't think this one does that.

@@OGPedXing it's a : Ionization signal to CDM

Most miata specific tune files have it already set up to be the "Boost" option on the output drop down.

@@OGPedXing I dont know why, but I think through updates, its now called High Power 2. I ended up using the 12v from the MAF red/white and then just running my own cable to the rear options connection port R

@@OGPedXing Oh I meant to ask, does the 9V test when this is used for a dual port external wastegate?

It's an obx racing gas lid. Used to be on ebay and Amazon for about 100 bucks.

In my research, the laminar flame speed of ethanol is .455 meters per second vs .4 m/s for gasoline. That's what I was referring to. That doesn't necessarily contradict your points, though. Full combustion is different from flame speed. On a dyno, you will typically be able to get more power in any part of the curve where gasoline was knock limited by advancing the timing. Other places, it won't help and may lower mbt.

@@OGPedXing According to the national institute for health combustion rates for gasoline are faster than for alcohol and flame speed propagation in a non enclosed area has no effect on combustion rates. Typically any ability to advance timing has to do with the cooling effect of alcohol fuels when inserted in the fuel air tract of an internal combustion engine as u have stated making it less knock prone. In my years of racing (I'm 63) with a race gas powered car ignition advance can be run as much as 35 total degrees. Alcohol engines tend to rarely use any more than 28. Of course adjustments will probably have to be made in a street driven vehicle.

@matthewmoilanen787 Hmm, that's not my experience at all. Just with my Miata, 28 degrees is very low...down a lot from max torque. I don't have the paper in front of me, but it is measured in a compressed state (piston) at lambda = 1.

​@@OGPedXingOf course you'll want to adjust accordingly for your street driven vehicle, combustion chamber type, valve train type, bore stroke ratio, ect but we and most other dirt or asphalt oval guys seem to settle on about 28-32 max. If u have made Dyno runs and found your ideal to be more than 28 then you should of course do that. Most importantly is that more timing isn't necessarily optimum but it may work well in your case. I have been told by the so called "pro" engine guys that the biggest benefit for them was the increased burn time and pressure application on the power stroke. They have explained that starting the fire too early just pulls power sometimes because combustion pressure starts to rise while the piston is still raising. You seem to be doing a great job on explaining the installation of this control unit and if it works better for you with more advance good on you for finding that out and pulling that last bit of power. Again nice work on the vids as you are a huge help to allot of people trying to work this stuff out!

Haha, still alive. I have some more content filmed but not edited. I'm trying to get back into again. Thanks 😊

I have sprayed at temps up to about 38 c. But I wouldn't go higher than that. The reason is the dip will flash dry almost immediately out of the sprayer, leaving you with a bumpy or grainy texture. A couple of tips to help: spray at night or very early morning, you need about 4 hours or so to get the required number of coats down, although dry time between coats (normally 20 minutes) can be shortened to 10 minutes. 2) Thin the dip first with a little solvent like xylene. This will make for a lighter product going on and it will help with smoothness. Downside is that it is more prone to running, so many lighter coats may be needed. 3) store your dip inside with a/c so the product temp is cooler than the air. I do this in reverse to spray in cold weather (I put the dip in a warm place or in warm water before spraying). Hopefully this will help!

@@OGPedXing Thank you for your useful tips , will Plasti Dip resist this ambient temperature of 55 C - 130 F or will melt

Oh yes, after applying it, it can take a lot of heat, no problem. My wheels will get to 100 to 150 c sometimes easily, and I've had no problems.

@@OGPedXing Thanks I will give it a try

Sometimes it's because of how the emblems are designed or fitted and there's not much to do. But that said, when spraying that area, make sure it's hitting directly perpendicular to the panel rather than at an angle. This makes it so the front face of the emblem gets plenty of product for good peeling and the panel gets the right amount as well but the emblem sides get less. This will help it break correctly on the emblem side vs the panel side.

Check the video description for a couple of links. I personally got the Robbins top with glass. Robbins is top end probably, but I know many who have done Autoberry or Sierra.

I think it's the standard righty-tighty (clockwise) to tighten the cable.

If you already have the megasquirt wired up, then it will be about the same, so I'd use the ms. The main advantage with a standalone boost controller is you can use other options for your fuel management if desired. The flexibility with the ms, especially ms3x, is you can do all kinds of cool stuff like boost by gear or rpm.

I think I used 5/32 hose (4mm) so a tee somewhere about that should work.

@@OGPedXing Awesome thanks! I got everything installed but when i go to start the car, the engine just keeps cranking. I made sure everything was stilled correctly (MAP, IAT, pins pushed in correctly). Any idea what this could be? I bought this ms3x with a 96 miata basemap loaded already. Should i just reinstall the basemap from megasquirts website?

All engines are slightly different, so it may or may not start right away. See if you can get it to start by giving it some throttle. If that works, you need to increase fuel in the fuel ve table.

@@OGPedXing Thanks for the quick reply. I already tried with the throttle fully pressed but it still wouldnt start. Ill try to reinstall the basemap and try again. The MS3x was built by someone else so maybe something went wrong on their end

Make sure to check over all the settings in tuner studio for your base map under the Startup/Idle menu. Make sure the crank rpm isn't too high, and your priming pulse looks good. Also on the ignition options screen, check the crank advance, I use 15 degrees. It's also possible that someone has messed with the idle screw, it might be getting too much air and this makes the fuel table way too low. Finally, to verify the ms3x itself, bring up the Testmodes menu and you can manually test everything from the fuel pump to the injectors and coils.

Yeah, my wife is great but has, shall we say, depth perception issues. Plasti Dip does a good job of covering these things.

Yes, you can take out the center console "tombstone" and eye vents and then it should come off. You can work a plastic trim tool in there to help pop it off.

@@OGPedXing oh okay interesting! Yes I’m quite familiar with removing the tombstone but I was under the impression that panel above the glove box was screwed in. So I can just pop that panel off once the tombstone is off?

Just to be sure I understand, you mean the long panel that goes all the way across on 90-93 dashes right? Aka the crash pad. I think that one is clipped/glued in. For 94 to 97 there's the passenger air bag panel, I was assuming that's not what you meant. Although before swapping my na8 dash for na6 I took out the non functional airbag and glued the panel back in.

@@OGPedXing exactly that! I have a ‘93 miata

Yep, I think there are no screws, it's mostly glued down. I've been told start from the passenger side first and work it off slowly. Unfortunately due to age, breaking the plastic backing is somewhat likely. But I've also seen replacements on ebay and such. Good luck with your project 👍 😀

I have recently been using one...if it cracks again, I'll use it for sure.