![Felix Katze](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Felix Katze
Registrace 12. 12. 2017
Face it, neither of us know why we're here.
Bosch PSR12VE NiCd vs 18650 repack. Which one is right for you?
I repacked 2 batteries for an old Bosch drill, one with NiCd the other with 18650s. Are the 18650s really that much better? Is the Aliexpress battery management system any good?
Yes to both. There, now you don't need to watch it.
Not a how to!!
Yes to both. There, now you don't need to watch it.
Not a how to!!
zhlédnutí: 81
Video
No Comparison - ALPS vs AliExpress Brake Switch
zhlédnutí 205Před rokem
How does an AliExpress brake switch compare to OEM equipment? It doesn't. Should you buy one and try for yourself? No. Spend the money - there is just no comparison between the OEM ALPS made brake switch and the cheap replacement. Cheaper alternatives are available, but they are still going to cost way more than the AliEx stuff.
Technics SL-5 part 9 - Bonus Round
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 2 lety
The very last thing to do is to check that it plays a record correctly from start to finish, both for 33 1/3 and 45's. I am happy to report that it all works correctly. Unit sounds good, and the cartridge is in good condition. That concludes this series. I hope it is helpful for keeping your SL-5 running for many years to come.
Technics SL-5 part 8 - Speed Adjustment
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 2 lety
Adjusting the speed for 45, then 33 1/3. That's pretty much it for this project. I will hook it up and play some records, to ensure start and stop positions are correct, so if anything interesting happens, I'll add another video.
Technics SL-5 Series Part 7 - Servo Gain Adjustment
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 2 lety
Setting the servo gain in the tone arm mechanism. Unfortunately the camera didn't get the exact bit where the servo was adjusted, but I do show the procedure for how it was done and what you need to look out for. It actually isn't that difficult, provided you are fairly gentle with your adjustments. The next video will cover adjusting the speed, and maybe one more to test play a record to ensur...
Technics SL-5 Sixries Part 6
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 2 lety
It's time to deal with the broken plastics. In this video, I show the disassembly of the sled mechanism and how to get the plastics separated out so we can work on them. I also show how I repaired the cracks with a specialist plastic repair kit, with good results. As an aside, afterwards I decided to use a little car polish to see how 'invisible' the repair could be. Interestingly, the original...
Technics SL-5 Series Part 5
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 2 lety
In this video, I cover removing the worm drive and the motor so I can clean the pulleys where the belt caused some corrosion. Initially I thought I'd get away without pulling the motor right out, but it made it easier. So it is a bit back to front - next time I'd plan to remove it from the beginning. Procedure for removal is at about 10:17 so flick forward, and back again. Or just watch the who...
Pioneer CT-2 Update
zhlédnutí 470Před 2 lety
Exams are over, hopefully for good! So I am back into some of these projects. Here's a quick update on some annoying problems I had with the Pioneer CT-2. I also put some more time in on the SL-5 today, so stay tuned for the next installment in that series, possibly in a few hours.
Technics SL-5 Seriiiies Part 4
zhlédnutí 2,7KPřed 2 lety
Removing the top cover, then the mechanism cover. There's a slight trick to getting the mech cover off, so if you need to get into it, see how its done - don't break the plastic covers! We have a look at the cracked plastic pieces that need repairing, and I replace the capacitor in the mech PCB.
Technics SL-5 Seriiies Part 3
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 2 lety
Replacing the electrolytic capacitors in the SL-5 main PCB. It is relatively straight forward - this is probably the least interesting part of the series. I sped up a fair whack to save you sitting through it in real time. There are a few small things to be aware of as you refit the PCB - namely that switches connect properly so everything goes where it should. The next video will cover the sle...
Technics SL- 5 Seriies Part 2
zhlédnutí 3,3KPřed 2 lety
Removing the platter so we can turn the unit upside down to remove the bottom cover and access the spindle and PCB. Also a look at the old Matsushita capacitors and why you probably, really, truly want to replace them - this was the first time I've ever opened this unit up, and probably the first time ever in its life anyone has had a tinker, but I already knew they were bad. Next part will be ...
Technics SL-5 - Series Intro
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 2 lety
This is the first installment of the Technics SL-5 repair series. A quick overview of the unit, a basic explanation on how it works and some of the things I'll be covering in the series. Next installment we'll be grabbing the screw drivers and getting our hands dirty. *Yes, I know audio is a bit fuzzy. I decided to grab my old S5 for this, just for kicks. I wont repeat the mistake.
Quick Update - Pioneer CT-4 (actually CT-2) and Technics SL-5
zhlédnutí 234Před 2 lety
Brief video of projects in my to do list, not very interesting really, just proof I'm still here and have been taking notes from the comments. More SL-5 stuff on the way, promise. I don't know why I keep saying CT-4 - it is a CT-2. TWO. d'oh!
Bias Trap Demo - how does a bias trap work?
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 2 lety
Demo of a bias signal trap in a cassette deck. Brief overview of the purpose and some of the things to consider. Here are some useful links for working out what values of inductor and capacitor you need for your measured signal: www.trance-cat.com/electrical-circuit-calculators/en/lc-oscillator-calculator.php and a calculator for adding series capacitors together: calctool.org/CALC/eng/electron...
Pioneer CT-Y7 (CT-40/940) Repairing broken switch push rods
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 2 lety
Picked up and nice looking CT-Y7 - not working and surprisingly, only a mechanical fault. Unfortunately during disassembly, the push rods for tape type and dolby selection snapped. Probably shrunk somewhat over time in addition to brittle plastic. After a bit of an overview, there is a bit of detail on the repair.
Pioneer CT 7100 Bias Trap - Diagnosis and Repair
zhlédnutí 484Před 2 lety
Pioneer CT 7100 Bias Trap - Diagnosis and Repair
Strobe Light Part 1 - Arduino Prototype
zhlédnutí 155Před 3 lety
Strobe Light Part 1 - Arduino Prototype
Diagnosing and solving cassette deck recording issues - Part 2 - Pioneer CT-7100
zhlédnutí 383Před 3 lety
Diagnosing and solving cassette deck recording issues - Part 2 - Pioneer CT-7100
Diagnosing cassette deck recording issues - Pioneer CT-7100
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed 3 lety
Diagnosing cassette deck recording issues - Pioneer CT-7100
Technics RS-M250 Record Level - solved?
zhlédnutí 936Před 3 lety
Technics RS-M250 Record Level - solved?
Sharp MD-MS721-S Mini Disc Recorder Repairs - Part 1
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed 3 lety
Sharp MD-MS721-S Mini Disc Recorder Repairs - Part 1
Technics SL 5 Part 3 - Repairing some plastic mounts
zhlédnutí 653Před 3 lety
Technics SL 5 Part 3 - Repairing some plastic mounts
Flat Cable Re-made - Fujifilm XQ-1 Menu Malfunction
zhlédnutí 381Před 3 lety
Flat Cable Re-made - Fujifilm XQ-1 Menu Malfunction
How very unjapanese of them to solder this into the board, bit of a pain and not needed, they could have easily made it an easy swap like a normal motherboard 2032 sigh. Thanks for the video, I'm about to change mine but tempted to just solder a positive negative cable so I don't need to disassemble the entire thing again to the display area just for the next change. I did find one locally here in New Zealand for the battery
Yeah, it's a bit annoying the way it was done, and I was almost tempted to use a battery case with longer leads running to the bottom, for better accessibility. No matter now, it's done. Happy to say it is still working, and the cooker is getting used probably every other day. 12 years old now!
@@felix_da_katze yeah agree its definitely great quality, coincidently I believe I am on my 12th year too haha. I actually was never bothered about the battery being dead as I didnt use the timer but wife just bought a spare rice cooker. I asked her why she bought a new mini one, she goes.. it has a timer lol. So now I'm determined to fix this one.
Too funny! Yeah, it became annoying not having the timer...just so convenient.
@@felix_da_katze so I ended up wiring in a double AAA battery holder and double taping it inside near the top so I can easily just swap two AAA (2 x 1.5v for the 3V), should be pretty decent for battery capacity. Will see how long they last.
I'm pretty sure the battery is only needed for keeping the clock going while the unit is unpowered. So I think it should last a long time. I did consider mounting a CR battery case externally, under the unit, so I'd never have to open it again, but didn't for whatever reason.
My SL-QL5 seems to play fine, but the needle drags across the record on return. What the heck would cause this?
Sounds like it isn't lifting up properly. Cracked plastics or maybe something wrong with the solenoid that raises the arm, are where I'd be looking first. You'll need to take the covers off and have a look.
@@felix_da_katze , thank you!
I have one of these, was never serviced works perfectly after all these years ❤❤
New to record players, any idea where i hook up the ground wire on this specific turntable?
There is a round hole where the ground wire plugs in, and you normally have a ground screw on the back of your amp to connect the other end. You could just jam a thick enough multistrand wire in there, if you can't find the right plug end, or attach it via some solder or something. But the case of the record player is plastic, so it must be attached to that grounding point. I've seen some people say you can attach the ground to the outer of one of the RCA jacks to simplify things, but that did not work when I tried it. I'm sure the engineers thought of it when they designed it, and they wouldn't have done anything unnecessary.
Hi did you ever post a how to record vid as I have no idea how to do it! Many thanks
No, I have been meaning to install the new laser unit, but just haven't got around to it yet. One day...
are you able to help me for this ? i have a Matsushita MMI-6S2R2D motor and it has a exposed resistor betwheen the + and - pins, and it also has a ground pin, which is intresting, the resistor connects the + to the - pin, and when i did a test on the motor at 2V (10 volts less than its rated voltage) while wiring it up correctly according to its back, the resistor immediatly started smoking, i turned off the power to it and just wondered, why did it burnout if i wired it up correctly ??? tho, one thing for sure, its not a cascade problem, as around 10 days ago when i first got the motor, i did a 5V test and it worked fine (just lower speed due to lower voltage), so once again, why dosen't it work now ??? but now to the actual thing, do you have any ideas on how to fix that resistor problem ? in case its about remplacing the resistor : yes it is possible, just unsolder it and put a new one, that easy, but it might do it again.
It could be that the voltage is too low to get it to spin, so it turns into a dead short.
maybe you are right, but how could a resistor short circuit itself at lower voltages ? it had no contact whatsoever to the main speed regulator circuit or anything, it just connects the + to the - pin, does not even interfer with the main system, but anyways, when i have the time i will try to run it at 5V. (as i said, it worked fine when i first did a 5V test)
Excellent video. Thanks for mentioning the plastic pin underneath. I had removed it but could not find the hole where it went back in. The hole is not round, it is just a gap in that lower right molded in clip. I had good results simply removing the screw on the left side of the guide bar, sliding it out, cleaning off the sticky grease and putting it back in with new grease. There are small rubber boots at each end of the bar. The only trick is getting the upper part of that carriage back in the slot , up by the window, when the bar is reinstalled. The whole assembly drops down with the bar removed. With the old grease on the tone arm linear track bushing, the friction is too much for the motor drive and the belt wears out.
Have one but the sound is muffled. Anyone have this issue and advise?
Needle clean? I use compressed air to give mine a clean from time to time, sounds very muddy when it has bunch of dust on it. Otherwise maybe needs a new cartridge.
When you work on these how often are they out of spec and is it noticeable during playback? What should you look for or hear with an out of spec servo? Thanks for the video.
They've always been out of spec, but they often come with a host of other problems. I think if it is working, then leave it be. It's quite a frustrating process if you don't really have any issues. I have to do it, because I take the whole mechanism apart to fix the plastics.
Can you post in comments all the final capacitors you need to replace for SL-5?
Good idea. Just done.
@@felix_da_katze Why did you use 47uF@16V for bipolars instead of the stock 100uF?
I replaced based on the values that were actually installed on the board. I'm guessing it was a different revision, because another SL-5 had BP 100uFs installed, and that's what I was expecting.
@felix_da_katze oh yeah I see in your video that they were 47uf
Yeah, I try not to second guess what they've done :) I might update the list to say Please check with whats installed.
KT-RS1 is a pain to work with because of the wires, but managed to fixed the gears and reels hub with JB weld without de-soldering any wires. all wires have enough slack to open the circuit board wide enough you can access the gears driving the reels.
I imagine they are a great player when you get them working. I haven't quite got there yet. Need to dig them out of the cupboard.
Nice video Felix, I got one SL-5 like yours, is a 110v, but I live in Europe, and here is 220v, I think the people who I bought the TT they plug the TT to 220v and now even with a step down transformer there is no sign of living, can you please indicate me were is the fuse located in this TT? Thanks, cheers.
That is a really good question, and the answer might be a bit surprising. I actually couldn't remember seeing a fuse inside, and so I checked the service manual. It indicates that a small PCB for the fuse is located between the transformer and powerswitch. I checked my video, couldn't see it. So I then opened the one I have next to my desk. No fuse! So digging through the manual, it seems only XA models (220~240V) were fit with a fuse. But there is certainly a few tabs and a hole that looks like it was designed to accept something. So my guess is, if you don't see one in that location, it was never fit with one. With the scenario you have described, I would try desoldering the wires from the transformer where they connect to the PCB and check the transformer isn't cooked (you should get around 19.3V out according to service manual), then have a look at the PCB for any signs of damage. If you have a bench power supply you could try feeding in voltage to the PCB (ramp up slowly to 19.3V) and then check for signs of life. Check some easy stuff too, like the main axial capacitor (the big one!) isn't showing dead short across terminals. You might get lucky that a few input components died and sacrificed themselves and saved the board. I would guess that's the case, but without seeing it, hard to offer any more specific advice.
@@felix_da_katze Many thanks for the complete list of information, mine is just like yours don't hove pcb fuse, I have a bench power supply I'll try to connect with the main board, I already checked the transformer and it's dead, 0v on the secondary, I'm not a professional, I'm a curious person that likes to learn, just one question, I will desolder the wires from the output side of the transformer and connect the bench power supply on that wires, what is the + and - ? Many thanks again for the useful information.
If you connect the bench supply up to where the transformer was soldered, it wont matter the polarity. The rectifier should take care of it. It is possible some kind of over current protection was built into the transformer, but I think it means that transformer is dead. No matter, you best bet now would be to replace with a transformer than can take your 220V and give you 19.3 out, and fit that (once you've confirmed the unit is working of course). Best of luck! Any questions, I check here every few days.
@@felix_da_katze Thanks again for the help, I have checked the transformer and on the primary there is no continuity, the secondary I think is ok, I will remove the transformer and I was thinking of plugging my Variac with 19.3v AC to the 2 wires that go to the PCB, what you think? Sorry for my English, because is not my first language. Best regards.
Yeah, you should be able to do that. It is expecting AC, so if you have a way to give it AC, go for it. If you press the power switch and get a red light, you might be in luck. But check things carefully, and if you have way to limit current, do that too. I can understand you fine, no need to apologise. If any of my explanations are hard to follow or understand, let me know and I'll try again.
Thank you so much for this series! I have owned my SL-5 since the mid 80's. It sat dormant for ages. I have been using it again for the last few years. I have an issue which I believe is just a 40 yo belt and decided to do a "rebuild". Thanks for the caps list, allowed me to order and wait until I had all parts before opening up. Anyhow, the reason I am posting is I found capacitor #7 (as you counted) to not be populated. Appears to have never been placed. I wonder if this cap was removed from the BOM (parts list) later. There are holes on the component side, but there are pads coving it on the other side.
If it worked properly in the past then just replace the caps that you see. These were sold all over the world, with minor variations, so any omission is likely deliberate.
I have a sl 5 and there are some records that are a bit too big and making sound when it's touch the side. Is it something that happens to you too?
Yes, some records are just a bit oversized, but it seems they have just a bit more lead in than anything else. I haven't had any cause any problems though. Just thinking on this for a minute, I think it might be something to do with the size detector switch/lever. I have a fix for that, but not sure if I can find the video. Stay tuned, as it is supposed to be the final section of the series, but things got in the way of getting it finished and uploaded.
Do you have, by any chance, the 25 cm record adaptor that came with the SL-5 to be able to play 10" records? I can't find it anywhere for sale new or used. I had to put a tape on the back sensor so it can play 10" records. But I have to press the play button continuously first time I press it to move the arm to the 10" record, 'cause if I don't the needle will think a 12" record in on the table and drop directly on the mat.
Yes, there is a plastic hub for singles. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare, but I suspect almost any would do, so long as it centres the record properly. And I am sure I have seen some generic aftermarket ones. However, the centre hub doesn't have anything to do with sensing whether a 33 or 45 is being played. Good candidate for 3D printing. That is all down to the sensor at the back and if you are taping it over, then you are fooling the machine that an LP is on. Default behaviour should be to move into the single position, if the arm activating the sensor was broken for instance. Actually calling it a sensor is a bit of a stretch, it is a fairly generic switch operated by a plastic lever.
@@felix_da_katzeNo, I'm not referring to that hub for records with larger center hole. I found out about the 25 cm record adaptor on the manual itself. It's an adaptor that has to be installed when you want to play 10" records with a normal hole as in the 12" records. It is to be installed near the plate on the back. Anyway, I found out that even with that adaptor you have to press the play button continuously first time I press it to move the arm to the 10" record. Thank you for answering. :)
Thanks for repair series. Just got rare vertical SL-V5😊
Nice! I haven't seen one for sale yet...somewhat envious!
I've opened, and closed a defective Technics SL-5 Linear Tracking Turntable up to five times; the motor, gear, worm gear cover is badly designed. There is this plastic rivet that is almost impossible to put back in place; and that cover once in re-installed, and fully in a correct position, mysteriously stops the top lid from fully closing! And I was considering on a purchase of a Technics SL-1500C Direct Drive Turntable, new if possible; I think not. No way. Perhaps it is better to get a Thorens Direct Drive Turntable. Technics has done a disservice for a turntable owner, user to service a record playing system that is defective in design; and has eventual problems with correct functioning of its linear tracking tonearm. Broadly described, there are discrepancies with correct function! I've got up to four different turntables, three of which are going to be connected to my main hi fi audio system. And I have a Rega Planar 3 mostly bought as a plinth; Linn Basik Plus Tonearm, and I mounted a new Audio Technica AT95E MM Cartridge; not the newer VM Series, by the way. Sounds good, musicality without resonance is what it has, and what you are supposed to hear. Previous owner had drilled a larger tonearm hole on that Planar 3 early 1980s plinth; and I had problems with restoration; but not as much as this linear tracking turntable - the SL-5 by Technics! At least three of these turntables work, and function well! Although I restored, repaired, and eventually upgraded a Rega Planar 3 by installing, soldering in a Rega 24V Motor Upgrade; at least it spins, and works well enough.🔉🎵🎶
Hi again!!! Just found it!!! A strong pull in the back solved!!! Thanks anyway for you video!
Glad you go it sorted!
Hi Felix! Greetings from Brazil! I just bough a hitachi cooker almost like yours. Unfortunately, in the trip back, the airline company tried to “destroy” it (in my luggage, and the metal case was dented. Do you know how to take the metal case? I’ve disassembled the bottom part, but the metallic case is stuck somewhere that I cannot take it away.
Very good explanation, congrats! One big question: where do i put the pushpin at the panel of the tonearm drive motor? I could'nt see it properly. Even in the service manual you can't see it. After cleaning and relube, the machine works, but I still have this pushpin left.🤔 Thanks for these videos!👌
thank you very much! 😀The pin seems to be positionend behind the last clamp on the right. I'll try but i think, it's not necessary for a propper function. My SL-5 ist working fine. maybe need a new needle.@@felix_da_katze
I have a SL-5 in need of speed adjustment but I can't figure out how did you put the plat to work without closing the lid.
Just got an SL-5 from a wonderful local couple. Seemed to play great on demo, but currently waitng on a new LP Gear carbon fiber cartridge/stylus to arrive before using myself. While I hope this lasts for quite some time before I have to do any repairs, I wanted to thank you in advance for sharing all of your knowledge here. As a new SL-5 owner, I truly appreciate being able to access your videos. Thanks again!
I just acquired one from Ebay for $70. It was listed, "For parts...," because the seller wasn't able to test it. It works well, except the stylus drags, just a little, when returning automatically, at the very end of the record. It came with a GRADO cartridge (a major reason why I bought this particular one), and sounds fantastic! I'm looking forward to using these videos for info on tweaking my SL-5.
Thank you so much for the series - I have had a long love affair with my SL-5 that I bought in 1981. But I got to this video and reviewed and reviewed it...but you never say what it is that you are testing, or how you know where to test. Respectfully, I don't care about whether or not you made a jig to set it on, but how did you know to attach your testing device to pin 3? How do you know what reading you need on the testing device. why should get a reading of 3.6 microvolts if you move something over? Why is 3.5 ok? The video does not show what you are adjusting. How do you know that? Where is that information? I am a total novice with electronics, I can understand the mechanical stuff, replacing capacitors, cleaning, etc... but I have no idea what you are testing here. Thank you for any help. Feel like my idiot 19 year old self who understood mathematics exceptionally well, until calculus when suddenly I had no idea what anyone was talking about.
It is probably best to view this series in conjunction with a copy of the service manual. Pin 3 is the pin described in the service manual, and I actually hooked up to a different point, but connected directly on the same trace. It isn't really specified what happens if you are a little bit out on voltage. My advice, get it as close as you can. Going for perfection will drive you nuts and likely not make that much difference. There might be another standalone video on servo gain that I did before making this series - might be worth having a look at that too.
just bought a used one today. The sound is great to my ears. Played about ten albums. It did abruptly stop and return early on one of them. I think it was the third one and didn't do it again. So far, so great!
Hey! Thanks for the video. I had a mint in box auto 7 shipped from japan. But it now doesn't seem to be focusing. The focus indicator does not move, q6nd i can see that the lens is not moving around on a half press. Any tips? At some point ill just tear it apart and see what I i can come up with :'(
I'm not too sure to be honest. It's been a while since I've looked at this, I'd need to dig it out to have a look.
Hello there! Did you ever come up with a solution? I just bought the same camera and am having the same issue: when I do the half press, nothing seems to happen for the focus (I can’t tell a difference in the viewfinder, and the lens itself doesn’t move like I have seen on other tutorials of this camera). Thank you for any insight!! @samlawson635
Buenas noches amigo tengo una planta technics su8011 revento unos filtros pequeños pero no se cual es el valor del los filtros del pre me podrías ayudar
¿Tienes una foto? imgbb.com/ es conveniente.
Just got one from eBay and the seller said tested, but when I turned on and put a record on, the needle wiggled and also jumped tracks. I didn’t plug into a receiver and just plugged in . So I looked at the needle and there was nine. So I was wondering how to pull off the cartridge and at first thought to just pull straight out, but there’s a thing that you can turn and seems to loosen up. Anyway, I didn’t want to break anything, so I left alone and why I’m checking yt now. Also, I can’t tell which cartridge is on there and if it’s a replacement or original until I learn how to get the needle or cartridge to come out. But in eBay when putting the SL-5 needle, a bunch show up and not knowing if all the different cartridges for this turntable are compatible with others or if you have to stick with the same brand. Anyway, I’ll look around yt and look for other videos.
I had one in the mid 80’s and thought it was the coolest tt and it sounded great. I just got one off eBay and it was only $99. and many others were going for double that. I can wait to get it and hope it’s working or needs only minor repairs. These are made solid and weigh about 10 pounds.
If it is in working condition then that might not be bad value. I'd guess there is some work to be done though. Definitely worth the time and effort if you can do it.
I just opened the box plugged in and put on a tester record, but not plugged into a receiver. The platter turned and the needle dropped at the beginning. But I noticed the needle was not tracking and jumping. So I had a look at the needle and there was none and worn away. So my next question is how do I get the needle or cartridge off? I pulled on it a bit and nothing was coming loose. So I see this turn know and it seems to be moving and loosening and tugged the cartridge again (seems like one of those things that’s difficult at first and later very easy). So o left it alone and checking yt and I’m sure the same cartridge for the SL- 6 and SL-7 and may look for videos on replacing the cartridge. Also, I’ve looked on eBay for the replacement needle, but since i don’t know the cartridge I have until I pull it off. I’m not sure if it’s the original cartridge when the TT was first bought or a replacement cartridge. And not sure if the needles made for this turntable by different companies are interchangeable or not? I guess I can just get a brand new cartridge and solve that issue, but how do you get the old cartridge or needle off?
Cartridge pulls off quite easily. New cartridges available in Japan from about 4000 yen so around $35-40, and go up from there.
@@felix_da_katze Hello Felix! QUESTION: do you know how to lock the tone arm in place on this model? There is supposed to be a small slider on the inside of the arm that locks it in place... Can you help me with this? I'm not finding it. Thank you so much 😃
I've not seen or heard of any locking mechanism for this as such. Maybe a different model? The way I ship them is I remove the cartridge and pack it separately, and I remove the platter and pack it underneath the unit in bubble wrap. I use painters tape to keep the tone arm from bobbing around and pack plenty of bubble wrap under the lid. Wrap the whole thing up and make sure it is all secure. Then put in a box much bigger than it needs to be. This usually costs me a bit more on shipping but has so far saved on returns ;)
The question is “Y” would you buy it
hi! i recently picked up an sl-5 online, it has an awful buzzing problem. even with the ground cable connected properly to my preamp and the turntable ground port, it has an obnoxious 50hz hum whenever the needle is unmuted. the buzz disappears when i close the circuit with my body by touching the front panel buttons with one hand, and the ground terminal on my preamp with the other. do you have any ideas as to what is causing this problem? cheers!
Could it be something as simple as a break in the wire for your grounding cable? If you haven't replace the electrolytic capacitors, then that is a possibility. While you are in the underside, check the solder joints look ok going to the grounding pin.
@@felix_da_katze if i play around with the cable it makes some funky distorted noises so it detects that a ground cable is plugged in, but it just doesn't ground the turntable at all. i tried a different turntable in the exact same setup and it worked just fine
I'd be opening it up, checking the solder joints, and replacing the electrolytic capacitors.
Using a tip you mention in this video (to remove and reseat the ribbon cables) I was able to fix a digital camera I bought I online! Thanks!
Good to hear!
Howdy! Slowly going through these so I may find an answer, but the tonearm tracking motor keeps slamming itself to the right once I turn it on, so it won’t play for more than a few seconds. Any known fault for this?
Mine just stop in the middle and stop playing the record, what is the problem?
@@felix_da_katze I just bought it actually, and yes it start at the beginning and stop in the middle, the audio is fine but the problem is with tone arm
You could just put some shrink tubing on your remote cable...
How do you set the pressure on the needle? Great viedos btw. I just bought one of these for 50 and will be attempting a service
You don't set the pressure as such, you set the height. I haven't needed to do it, but enough people have asked about it I will probably do a video about it.
Would this method also work on an 8 Track player? I’ve got a portable player that has that same issue where the motor won’t start until you spin the flywheel.
Maybe? Best bet is to open it up and look at the motor. If it looks similarly constructed, then you may be able to get it open. Some of the earlier compact cassette deck motors had some far more complicated circuits in the motors, which gave way to simpler IC's with just a few components. 8 tracks would be getting on to 50+ years old, so probably any oils and greases would be dried out by now, at the least.
I have a Philips N2226 and the belt needs replacing because it disintegrated. Luckily it didn't melt, the motor cap needs replacing
Thanks so much for posting/sharing these videos! I acquired one of these with a package deal and I gave it to my son whom will be working on it to fix it. It does work but doesn`t move to the next songs.
I just scored some vintage Techinics gear that included this tt and an integrated amp, eq, double cassette deck and a pair of Cerwin Vega D7s.
Hi Felix, I have the same deck; a CT-940. Do you have the part numbers for the Take-up Idler and/or Pinch Roller? And my push buttons broke the exact same as yours. I super-glued them and then carefully reinforced with some shrink boot. Thanks, -Tom
This might sound like a silly question, but what exactly is the servo gain? Does this affect the amount of pressure as the stylus moves towards the center of the album? Or maybe something else? Near the end of the video, you mentioned that you were not going to mess the spring screw that controls the stylus pressure. If I wanted to adjust the tonearm weight against an album, the platter would have to be stationary while the needle drops down on a scale. This might be a recommended adjustment - maybe for another part? BTW, I'm going through this entire series several times before I crack open my SL-5. I wish more repair videos were like this in several parts. Thanks you!!!
Servo gain seems to control the advancement of the sled so that you have smooth, continuous playing. All of the SL-5s I have had worked without adjustment, but I set it to the spec as part of the service. I am pretty sure the height setting would ensure the correct pressure, as there is not much in the way of fine tuning adjustment via a weight as in a traditional tone arm. Glad you like the way I broke it up. It made sense to me to do it this way, and hopefully makes it easy to get on and do the task you need.
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Many thanks for these videos, really helpful. I've had my SL5 a number of years and previously a few pictures from a vinyl engine link was the best available for some of these pieces. This series is now the best resource on the internet for SL5 repairs, great job sir. One question though please? You mention in one video the height adjustment, something you'd not had cause to adjust. Is that because you found the measurement was Ok? In all honesty, I can't understand how to even take the measurement based on the service manual ... I'm not sure what the top line they're measuring 27.7mm is supposed to be? Working back from the stylus nothing seems to be at 27.7mm! Any chance you could show how to take that measurement please?
And even stupider question please? Does that 27.7mm actually effect the weight of the stylus on the record? Or is that just the needle drop?
27,7mm is the distance between stylus tip and guide rail. There is a diagram in the service manual describing. I've never bothered primarily because the turntables I've done have all worked fine. I suppose I should at least measure it for completeness. I'm out of the country at the moment, so not possible to make a measurement vid at the moment. Thanks very much for your kind words. I do hope this is a useful resource. I spent far longer on making this series than I expected. When I get back in the country, I hope to tackle a few other models in depth.
It might. So far I haven't had any issues that have led me to adjust it, so I suspect if it was easy to skate across the platter, it might need adjustment, not sure what the symptoms might be if it was a bit low. When I return home, I will investigate this a bit more thoroughly.
Cool
I have an SL5 which inside has a small 640ma fuse just after the transformer which keeps blowing when it is turned on. I’m guessing this could be caused by the capacitors? Didn’t realise they might leak so I’ll take pcb off to check. Thanks. Andy UK
That could certainly be the case. Don't look at whether there is any physical leaks, they will be electrically "leaking" internally. Ensure you can move the platter by hand too. If it is stuck it might cause excessive current draw, but I'd expect that only after you hit play.
Bad lubricant..... 😢
It seems that I could have the same issue with my xq2. The wheel selector is acting ectic when I turn it, the flash also works 1 on 10. Where is this flat cable situated, and what need to be taken apart to reach it.
No problem. I hope you can get it sorted. These are terrific cameras.
thanx wll try this, grtz Henk