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Cool Beans! Thanks for the demo I ordered a set to go w/ your Johnson&Dow mold I got from you some months ago.

Love that Big Red One baseball cap on the range!! 16th Infantry - Semper Paratus!

Do you think it's a good idea to make these charges for inline gear as well?? Between 45 and 80grains BP ? I tried firing a 31 grain sample just like that on a tile and it exploded with a pretty big bang. It seems too strong to me. Loose dust burns differently. I would hate to pull pieces of a rifle barrel out of my head :-) I have a Traditions Vortek Northwest Magnum rifle.

Very cool . Flintlock is only thing i dont have in muzzloader other than a double . Kind been wanting to build my own from parts .

Very cool . Seen post on mewe had watch it . Great performance. Remember shooting pine boards with 44cal rd ball good performance. I know with service charge rd ball go through old car door. Got brother old 44cap in ball we used to shoot on bench need rebuilt for 3 time this time not tobad service rust .

I think Charlie built your 1858 for point of aim shooting. I remember when he worked on my .54 Sharps Carbine he asked me if I wanted to shoot 6:00 or POA. As an aside, Charlie also recommended a low 40 grain charge for the Sharps (likely for target work) but he did mention the 64 +/- grain combat charge the original used with the .52 bore. I imagine the .54 would require a heavier combat charge.

Thanks buddy! You make it look simple! I’m going to try that

NAVIES WERE ALL IN 36 CALIBER!!!!

I am currently working on getting my own Palmetto Sharps carbine up and running. I bought a few of those bullets, and plan on ordering the mold, too. Have all I need to make linen cartridges and been testing ways of manufacture and sizes to get the perfect cartridge. What was the fix on the breech that was made? Can you discribe?

Thanks for another history lesson had no idea they made bullets that way. Also pointing out the weight difference between cakes not made using a scale was an eye opener! Thanks Mark

👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🪖

Original case-less ammo?

great video!

I recently fired J&D flash paper + flash glue cartridges in my Uberti Whitneyville Dragoon that uses the Walker grip frame. The powder charge was 30 grains of 3F. They were very accurate at a rest to a 25 yard target and only shot about 6" high as opposed to 13" high for the same cartridge using round balls. Just wanted to let you know I am very pleased with the J&D .44 performance. Also, The revolver I used has a loading lever mouth that is factory made to fit conical bullets. FYI the nipples on the revolver prefer CCI #10 caps and I lubed the mouth of the cylinders with homemade beeswax, beef tallow, and Olive Oil lube.

With your chambers being so tight, you should check your bore. If your chambers are that tight, they're going to make smaller bullets as the lead is shaved off while pressing them in. If your bore is not as small as the chambers, then the bullets will not seal and that can cause all sorts of problems, especially with accuracy, but also with slowly damaging the barrel (would be damaged a lot faster if you were shooting smokeless powder). I don't recall the term, but hot gas escapes through the grooves in the bore and it strips lead from the bullets causing leading and steel from the barrel causing bore damage.

You don't have to use force to seat your caps on your nipples? If I don't, the caps won't go off... and even if I do, sometimes I need to hit them twice to go off. It's like 3/5 go off and 2/5 need to be hit again. I think the caps aren't a good fit for the nipples, but they're the one's that the company (and others) recommend. I think a couple of my nipples are out of spec and that's why it's consistently 3/5 that go off. It appears that the taper is too wide at the top edge of where the cap makes contact/seals to the nipple. Either it's too wide there or the entire taper is too wide. I think the entire taper is too wide, but never measured, because how do you accurately measure a taper? It's different along the length and it's not easy to measure the exact spot each time. I'm thinking maybe that I can make a mold of one of the nipples that works and use that as a "no go" gauge and/or a visual inspection gauge if I cut one in half, so I can see how the suspected larger nipples fit inside it.

These would work for air pellet rifles. Before melting the barrel out

I'm surprised nitrocellulose didn't make them too powerful. I thought that nitrocellulose would the the best choice, but I thought that it would burn too fast and cause far too high pressures... and second to that, I thought that nitrocellulose was invented long after these bullets were ever used. Were they some kind of bullet used after nitrocellulose, but before cartridges? (during that short period of time?)

Is Hahn still in business? I tried contacting him with no luck.

The forbidden vitamins

How the ignition happen??

😅 here is the test. Thanks

I was waiting for the final test 😢, that's a good idea. Best regards from Venezuela.

Good video

I think I can come up with a mold that will work for my .50 muzzleloaders an save me a ton from pellets. Thanks

Ah... good old SIG nitrate dope. I suppose nitrocellulose "balsa cement" works too - Ambroid, SIGment or Duco brand. There's also nitrocellulose lacquer sold for finishing furniture. I wonder if replacing some of the water with, say, isopropyl alcohol wouldn't allow quicker drying. I suppose if you need more cartridges quicker you could buy multiple kits.. 😁 My inclination (being a 3D printing enthusiast) would be to design and print my own molds.

I was forced to make these as foster kid when I turned 7 my family had been making bullets for hodgdon powder for years then they adopted me and three others after adopting 350 other kids I do not miss it one bit

I see U had to change your name, CAN'T IMAGINE WHY......stupid bots.... -____-

Try old piano keys for the varnish. It is still around mixed in nail polish and some lacquer paints (copper conductive for sure). The fronts (not the top) of elephant keys is. Only the tops are b/c ivory soaks-up sweat, don't need that were the finger never goes. You'll know if it turns to slop in acetone. I used to put it on leather as dope to fill the pores with something besides oil and wax or tar. 💩 smells amazing after it dries.

hell yeah 110% powder mixture lol should be 90g of powder to get the right mixture.

Thank you sir for your video!! I've been working on rebuilding an Army San Marco 1851 Colt .36 caliber revolver for a few months now. I've been seriously interested in the various ways of loading my revolver before going to the firing range. I'll definitely be looking into this product you have shown us!!😁👍🇺🇲

Appears to be neat but to slow for me . Darn looking at the vid at 11:00 Why not just a 3D " ice cube type " tray you fill and let dry . Place a tooth pick in each cavity for removal .

needs a 22 cal version for daisy VL's

Ive been gluing pyrodex pellets to conicals for years

Sam's Club has condiment cups that would be really good in stead of the Red cup.

Great video!

I am interested in these 4F paperless cartridges. Mark, designed a kit like this for the .54 Sharps!

That's cool but too much work I can turn out 50 paper cartridges in the time.

Nitrocellulose ...yeah, its been around a long time, also kind of explosive by itself when dried. Applied to cellulose/paper it becomes guncotton, which for a while was used to make billiard balls....until they went bang.

Caseless ammo

ah, black powder and electric scale?????

i do wish you had finished with a firring still i like the vid

If you want the final mixture 5% by weight it would be 90gr black powder, 5gr water, 5gr dextrin... doesnt seem like alot but it's a 10% differance and might be why you find you need to add more water...

Well, I didn't even know this was possible! Wow.

Interesting.

Those of us who shoot wet collodion tintypes, ambrotypes and negatives use plain collodion all the time. It’s easy to buy.

Does it feel like the pellet crushes when loading. Tedious, but heck of a lot easier to load. Cool.

Those sold out quick.

duco cement and acetone is what i would prefer. just makes more sense too me, faster drying times and more ignittion

I really enjoyed your video😃🙌 To ensure consistency, carefully weigh the powder mix wet. Make one perfect finished weight cartridge so you know precisely how much you are adding to yield the perfect finished weight. Place the wet powder load into a cartridge case of your choice and tap the case on a hard surface at least 2x and mark the powder level inside and outside. Use a pipe cutter and cut the cartridge case to size and gig-up a handle for your new powder measue by volume. The mold is too short for a proper compression load and should be made of metal with a pipe sleeve that goes over it and a longer ram to compress the powder in the mold consistently but, it'll work. I'd contact the Uberti or another replica maker and ask for a worn out chamber boring / drilling tool because it's scrap to them however, pay for the shipping and any token charge because with it, you can make a perfect metal mold in brass😊 I hope this is somewhat useful 🙂