Video

Hello SD, in fact, I also grounded that two wires to the earth point below the passengers foot well carpet. I did so because I mistook the X14272 connector and there was no space for me either. But I can guarantee you that the method I showed in the video is exactly the same as the original wiring diagram. I believe your car has some other modules that is occupying these two pins. Don’t worry about it 👌🏻 And for the small gauge wire. I sourced them from anotherparted E92. If you can find a whole bundle of wiring harnesses for the iDrive head unit. Just get them and you will have a plenty gauges of original wires available. Thank you for the feedback. I am very happy. My video is helpful for your project. 🤗

@@funcarsgoodpeople your project is a bless for those who are interested to make the modification. Don't take to heart any critics. Some might be constructive.. but some, you don't know what's really behind them because no one take their time to explain. Your videos (all three) regarding electrical fuse board modifications are extremely well done! And this is coming from a hand on tools and with knowledge in fault finding qualified electrician. I will connect them 2 wires to the negative somewhere near the fuse board at dedicated point of connection. It is a bless to work with that Engineer Crimp tool! I probably said I managed to find 1mm cross section silicon insulation multi-stranded cable (with literally hundreds of wires in the core..) very specific use in cars wiring system. I stripped down the insulation just before the crimped terminal entry into the connector case... and put a heat-shrink (having a thinner insulation wall..) over it then pushed the pins inside careful. The other similar cable roll that I had was 0.5 square mm.. which was a bit to thin for 5A I was thinking, with almost the same diameter as 1mm.. Bye the way, I found out that the current pushed in the resistive side of the wheel is PWM, pulse width modulated.. Thank you again for your quick reply! Have a nice day!

Thank you! SD your work sounds so delicate! Could you please share some photos of your work? I also found a tutorial manual about crimping. Maybe you would like to read it too 🤗 Please drop me an email to funcarsgoodpeople@gmail.com

Hi Dr2ny2nj, I had this once long ago. Please check the dial position on that parking light switch cluster in the middle of the center air vent trim. People inadvertently turn it to the red side so the car sends hot air only 😅 Please also check the connection of this switch cluster 🤗 I think the AC normally doesn’t get affected in this installation 👌🏻

Hello Tycho yes what’s the question? You can also send to my email: funcarsgoodpeople@gmail.com

@@funcarsgoodpeople I got a media interface for the e90 but man Idk how and where to start I got a guide but yeah I dont get it realy

I see. make sure you have all the parts required. The installation of all the interfaces are pretty much the same as shown in this video. just go ahead and pop open your dashboard trim. You will begin to have ideas about it. 🤗

Hello Ben first of all I strongly recommend you to read the fault codes with diagnostic tool such as OBD2 scanner. The fault codes are super helpful in troubleshooting. I guess you can start the car and keep it running without other problems. if so, I think there’s nothing wrong with terminal 15. I feel like the ignition/terminal 15 is turned off by other modules. For example, the power management system will regulate the availability of electricity when it thinks the battery is low. If you had replaced a new battery. Please register the battery to tell the car about full battery so previous problems won’t be stored in the memory and thus hindering normal operations. But like I said, the fault codes are going to tell us about the car in great detail. Let’s find it out!

(Please see my updated reply)

⁠@@funcarsgoodpeople hi ,I read the fault codes but not with ista.With Some basic obd2 scanner.But no faults on that. The problem is ,I put the key in and then i press the start button for ignition to go on ,so normally all the lights on dashboard go on ,but sometimes it Goes on but immediately it falls back out ! Then i have to press again and it stays on.Not a big deal but Imagine one day it Will not go on anymore ! So I was thinking that maybe there is a relay that is not always working…you say the relay or terminal 15 relay is integrated in the fusebox ..so then if you want to change that ,you need to change the whole fusebox ?

And if you change the fusebox …can you take one from the gravejard ? From the same engine and type car ,and put your fuses in that fusebox or do you need one from the dealer with your vin number ?

@@funcarsgoodpeople is it only that what can turn the ignition /terminal 15 off ? Can you give another examples what can turn the ignition/terminal 15 off ?

Hi Ben, the source of terminal 15 is located in the fuse panel. An earlier version of fuse panel has a removable relay. But later versions only have built-in relay for terminal 15. The CAS module validates the car key and sends activation signal to the fuse panel to turn on terminal 15 when the ignition switch is pressed. And some of the fuses are on terminal 15. Please see my video about how to find them because the location may vary by car models.

Hello Mike you are right about it. However, that workshop was lent to us so we were not fully prepared for this work which we never had experience about it. I am thinking about the foam cushion stickers which are commonly used for chairs/desks/doors, can be applied for this problem 🤗

Hello and congrats Jack for your successful DIY! I am not an expert of LCD displays. The iDrive screen on my E90 also looks dimmed. I guess that is due to the aged backlight of the LCD display. I see there are some DIY articles about changing the backlight. Perhaps you can make this your next DIY project? 🤗

Hi Pardeep thank you for the feedback! Yes so far 2024 has been good and I’m feeling like a blessed person, although I’ve also learned that life cannot be as perfect as I expect 😅 I have been busy with the baby and my job. There’s pretty little time for the ongoing project - replacing the 32 valve stem seals for the S65 engine. The work has started for 3 months but it’s only 50% done 🥲 So the E90 has been parked for a long time and I really miss driving in it. July is particularly busy for me because I have additionally two examinations and one license to get. I have to completely stop the DIY project and ask my wife to take over the baby caring 😭 Again thank you for your kind, encouraging regards. I will work hard and get back to everyone soon!

Hi Kevin, the engine control unit (the DME for BMW E90) does not know that O2 sensor has been replaced. So the DME memorizes the faulty values read by old sensors. Adaptation reset is like calibrating the exhaust monitoring system 🤗

@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you for always responding. Yea we followed your steps and starting to feel like we have bad ignition coils. They are SMP and not OEM.

I see! What are the codes you are getting? Indeed the limp mode symptoms can be very confusing so I always suggest people start with the faulty codes 🤔

@@funcarsgoodpeople since I replaced all sparks with NGK but with SPM coils, they all are misfire codes

I see. I have another video regarding codes about misfire cylinder 1-8: czcams.com/video/-HcMYBclj_Q/video.htmlsi=gSkrcUmjBHHUOwEe but that’s due to the natural design of the S65 engine 🤷‍♂️ Consider cold start delete if the misfire codes become too annoying ☹️

Hello Xantor thank you for the question! This was one of the big projects so I still have some fresh memory about it 🤗 I believe that the heated steering wheel I got is from E70, although there are no part numbers on it. It’s artificial leather so the feel is not that good as the original Novillo leather ☹️, as I mentioned in the video. It’s pretty easy to find a heated steering wheel for this project. And I think it is a good idea to reupholster the heated steering wheel to match the interior upholstery 👍

@@funcarsgoodpeople but yours was with leather and M stitching right? Or did I muss something. Because the polyurethane one is just "basic" black without the soft touch and the stitching

Hi Xantor I misunderstood your question 😅 I got this heated steering wheel from eBay. The item name was “BMW M SPORT TECH 1/3/X E82/E87/E90/92/84 NEW NAPPA LEATHER HEATED SW THICK&SOFT” and it referred to part number 61316956550 and 61316944816. The seller is atlanticship and they shipped from Belarus. I chose it after carefully looking at the shape and style which suit my “stock” M3 😂 However you can still tell the difference by its texture. Looks and feels real plastic. So maybe you can get one with the shape you like and have it re-upholstered with the material you prefer 🤗

Hello MH thank you very much for the question! I love searching for the part numbers. Please search "bmw connector 75075279 872406-501A" and there will be plenty used connectors available. I have to go back to check my raw videos for the part number. However, I could only find that this is made by Honha Autoparts in China. Seems like it's not easy to get a new one🤔

@@funcarsgoodpeople Thank you for getting back to me. I was able to find one on eBay from a used parts seller.

Hello Clifton if your sound system is working fine then it means that loop is already bypassed so no need to attach a bypass loop to it. Please see my other video for bypassing the optical loop: czcams.com/video/RhKOkYNZ65M/video.html&si=P8pgLkHs7CQxRQrb I’ve also shown the location of the fiber optic hub (E90 in behind the left rear passenger shoulder)

Hi Ltakallen, I did not know that the mic is in the steering wheel column. But it's good news! Because we don't have to make the mic harness go that far. It's not too hard to pop up the upper trim of the steering wheel column. Please refer to my other video about this: czcams.com/video/hIKka5dYtp0/video.html&si=19rLDEJiCgDFetS- (No need to remove the steering wheel!) And there's some space behind the steering wheel for the mic cable. However, please expect some tedious work running the mic cable from the dashboard to the steering wheel column😅😅😅

Hello 500099, adding the AC+AA Interface directly to the network will not help. I believe there will be still no sound because not having any sound means the fiber optic network (MOST loop) is broken. One or more module on the network is malfunctional so you need to troubleshoot first. (Please refer to my video about removing the CD changer: czcams.com/video/RhKOkYNZ65M/video.html ) I recommend using a OBD2 scanner to see the fault codes about MOST loop. It will be quicker and easier. If you are not able to read codes, please make sure your amplifier is also on the MOST loop to isolate the problems. You can do a rough test by bypassing a single module on the MOST loop (with a fiber optic bypass loop) at a time to see which one is broken. When there is sound coming out of the speaker, the MOST loop is recovered so you know the faulty part.

Hello Ardit, I looked these codes up and they can be related to the FRM, LM(light module, but E70 may not have this) or IHKA(air con module.) I am just curious that are these codes solely related the FRM or are they coming from other systems? e.g. 9CBD FRM (frm_70): short circuit at rear door contacts 9CBD FRM (frm_87): Communication with step motor controller on the left disrupted 9CBD IHKA: Independent heating, switchover valve 9CBD LM: Battery exhaustive-discharge protection: deactivation, side light Could you please let me know your ECU variant (frm_70 or frm_87?) to help me decide which code to study?

@@funcarsgoodpeople Hi there! Thank you for getting back to my comment! I have FRM_70 and I wanted to clarify all the codes some other ones that might be connected to the FRM. I know I listed the 9CB5, 9CDB, 9CDA, 9CAA, 9CBD, 9CBC & 9CAB. Just wanted to add my comfort access doesn't work on the driver side front and rear door handles on the left but the right side of the vehicle works as well as the push start option working too. The power windows don't go up for both the front driver and passenger but the rear do as well as the control of the mirror and closing of them. I also got these code from the DME/DDE.... 3847: LIN/BSD, message; alternator: missing & 387F: Power management: Standby current violation. For the DSC (DXC_70) it got code 6EC9 saying: Interface FRM (status, door sensors): signal invalid. For the EGS the code 5125: Signal (door contact, 0x2FC) invalid, transmitter CAS. There's also two codes for the KLIMA2 (FKA_70) A1F1: Footwell-temperature sensor, right & A1ED: Seat heating, rear right (but I'm pretty sure I don't have rear seating).Also the JBBF (JBBF70) has codes A72E & A6D2 (both are in regards to the water valves for the driver and passenger sides, respectively) Yet I don't believe these codes have anything to do with the battery and FRM_70 issues, but I could be wrong. My plan of action are to change the belt tensioner because I've seen that moving a bit too much, along with the belt. That way that can solve the alternator message, because I'm pretty sure the alternator is in working order. On top of that I was thinking maybe the negative battery cable with the IBS sensor needs to be swapped out cause maybe that's giving those weird issues with the different terminals & battery discharge. I already changed the relay for terminal 15 but that didn't seem to do anything. Hopefully I've provided you enough information to help me get her running properly.

Hi Chad yes that’s a precautionary measure 😂 I didn’t know that a lot of people have this issue until I published this video. I’m pretty surprised.

@@funcarsgoodpeople BMW you know what it stands for. Buy More Warranty

Haha thank you Chad for the joke. I did not know that! 🤣

Hi Barry, I got your message and woke up on 3:30AM to see what I can help... JUST KIDDING! (The baby is sleeping nice so I have to use this free time for my hobby 😅 1. Air Con panel and cooler fan: I guess the cooler fan is in protection mode that it is assuming a hot climate because temperature information from the AC panel is lost. I believe that things don't break so easily but troubleshooting can be really frustrating like you said. I would isolate the possible causes as the first step. Please try to fix the connection of the AC panel. If not successful, restore all the connections to see if the car can be like before the installation. 2. Error messages: I read the official product page and think no particular coding (modifying the software configuration of onboard control modules) is necessary. BUT there may be some conflict between the modules after installation of new ones. So that's why I would disconnect the interface to see what's the cause. Before messing with the harnesses again, please try clearing all the error codes. Usually when we work on the car with the battery still connected, the car knows what modules/harnesses have been disconnected and logs that error. Sometimes the error codes stored in one module blocks the other modules from working normally, although the modules/harnesses have been correctly restored. So I recommend using a OBDII scanner to clear all the error codes (there will be hidden error codes!), reboot the car and see what still exists. 3. Take a break! You are very close to the finish line! And you are not alone! My engine is still taken apart but I hardly find time to continue the project 😭😭😭

@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. I decided for now to remove the Mr12 Volt and put everything back the way it was. Man that was painful. Even after doing that , the AC isn’t working , the fan is definitely in overdrive and the error messages are still there . Maybe I should have tried to clear the codes but going to talk to the dealership to see if they can get the codes cleared and the AC working . Afraid to put the module back though it was nice having CarPlay

@@funcarsgoodpeople success at last !! And after removing the Mr12Volt unit and harness and putting everything back to original, the AC still was not working and the error messages were still there . Was going to bring it into a Mercedes mechanic but decided to again open everything back up, put back the Mr12Volt wiring , harness, Fiber Optic cable loop and plug in the module. Then once I saw there was still no AC and the errors were still there I decided to check the fuse for the AC. It’s under the hood and a 7.5 amp fuse. Pulled it out and yep- the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and that did the trick- AC working and no more error messages or problems. Thank goodness ! Buttoned everything back up and can’t wait to enjoy having CarPlay ! I chickened out on adding a front camera but I know I have the option in the future. Thanks for the encouragement!!

Wow! Thank you for the great news Barry! I’m so happy to know this! Please come back and let us know how you like CarPlay!

Hi Knight Rider Redux thank you for the feedback! Do you have any setting for the EQ on the iDrive or on the interface?

Still playing around with the sound settings, though not an expert at all in eq settings either tbh.

I see. If you see further improvement with the EQ settings, please kindly let me know how to do it 🙏🙏🙏

Hello Barry thank you for the comments! It’s my pleasure! I completely have no experience on Mercedes but I’m very happy to hear that you’re completing your own DIY! You are also very welcomed to share the tips and your findings about installation for the Mercedes 🤗

@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. I am going to photograph or video as much as I can mostly to make sure I put everything back in its proper place . Besides getting all the connections correct , the wood trim around the unit is my one of my biggest concerns as I have to make sure I don’t damage or crack it as I doubt I could even find a replacement and if so it would be very expensive. I’ll just take my time and figure it out . My car already has a rear camera but I would like to add a front camera in the grill but not sure what would be a good camera and how to secure and wire it without removing too much . Have you installed the wireless charging pad? Curious about that .. Thanks again .

Hi Barry trust me you will be good at disassembling and assembling the trims in a short time. The car makers have a logical way of putting everything together so it shouldn’t be super difficult 🤗 To install the camera, you can look at how modern cars do to have an idea about where to position it. I see there are a lot of aftermarket light kits for Mercedes so maybe the front emblem can be a good choice? And for the wireless charger, it still pending 😅 I want to install it and film the video at somewhere with good lighting. But now I am doing another project at the basement with the engine opened so the car cannot be driven. Will keep you updated in this reply!

@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you. They are shipping the box today and I should have it to install this weekend. I’ll try and do some research on a front camera as well in the meantime . Thank you for being so quick and kind to answer me. All the best !

Thank you Erik! I’m doing my best 🤗 come back often!

​​@@funcarsgoodpeopleI just got a 08 328i and am looking at options. This is the second video on using that module. I'm more tempted to do this then use an aftermarket radio.

Hi Erik yes I like this module too. But there are viewers reporting success, and as well as problems with the installation(in the comment area!). Please carefully read the product description and requirements. Best luck for your DIY! You are very welcome to come back anytime!

Hi VK, I checked the wiring diagram/fuse map of the FEM(A173 Front Electronic Module) of 2015 BMW F82 and found that the fault code 804094 should be: 804094 Voltage supply, terminal 30F Fuse F11 defective (Same code may have different meaning on different version of control modules) The FEM is located at the bottom of the right A pillar. There are 14 fuse slots on it. Fuse 11 connects to the driver side headlight and Rear Electronic Module (are the rear lights working properly?) So please check if the fuse has blown. By the way, KL30F is a built-in relay inside the FEM. I hope it's not broken otherwise the whole FEM has to be replaced and that's gonna be a sad story. For the other two codes, coding error may due to aftermarket lights. You can turn off the cold/hot monitoring of the headlight by coding the FEM (please be careful with coding works!) and that code should stop coming. Missing LIN slave is becasue of the headlight has no power (Fuse 11 blown.) I could be wrong. You are very welcome to let me know the results. Best luck!

@@funcarsgoodpeople thanks ! I changed the fuse and now only the signal works on the driver side light. I think i might have damaged the light

Hi BalanBro thank you very much for the tip! I looked up in GoogleMaps but there weren't such setting available :( I'm happy there's a solution anyway! Cheers!😀

Hello Abdul, the IKE means "Integrated Electronic Control Unit" and it is actually the instrument cluster right in front of the driver. There are three power supplies to the IKE; terminal R, terminal 30 and terminal 15. Terminal 30 supplies IKE constantly. When you turn the car on, terminal R tells the IKE to light up. And terminal 15 tells the IKE the key is in ignition position or the engine is running. So if terminal 15 is faulty for IKE, it doesn't affect the driving. And you can drive the car as usual. If you want to fix this code, please check the wiring harness behind the IKE. And I think the engine shaking and smoke are other problems. Do you see other fault codes? You are welcome to send it to me! Carl

@@funcarsgoodpeople highly appreciated.. your comment is so informative and specific.. The shaking and smoke resolved, it was vacuum hose blocked, and oxygen sensors bank 1 and 2 not working.. I replaced all of that and it is working v smooth.. engine light gone.. Now The power supply terminal 15 is pending, i will work on it this weekend and Keep you informed about what i might find over there.. Thank you again my friend

That's good news! I'm happy for you! My bad to forget to mention in last reply; the three fuses for the IKE are: Terminla R - Fuse 43 (5A), Terminal 30 - Fuse 26 (5A) and Terminal 15 - Fuse 18 (5A) You can send me your VIN to funcarsgoodpeople@gmail.com and I can send you related information about the IKE, e.g. the wiring diagram and connector pin assignment table, to you. I believe you are a professional faultbuster and that code will be cleared soon :) Cheers!

不客氣！很高興能夠幫上忙！

Hello Ashwin thank you for the commentscomment’s too! I understand how painful it is to working in the dashboard 😂 Since the LVDS cable has an L shape, it may be stuck easily. You can try to remove the mid-range speaker in the top center of the dashboard and reach for the LDVS cable. The other approach is from the top of drivers footwell, beside the steering column. There’s also some space you can reach for the cable. I also recommend wearing gloves and sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the contaminants inside the dashboard. They can be quite irritating to your skin 😨

Hi Two-one, How about pressing the iDrive Menu button on the center console? You can also assign the iDrive “mute” shortcut to the multifunction switch on the steering wheel. When pressed, the original iDrive can be switched. Let me know how it works!

@@funcarsgoodpeople the mute button dosent work, and i can not switch to the Idrive sytsem, i select the Idrive B (Ccc) version, but still dosent work

@@funcarsgoodpeople i found the problem, reselution was to high

Thank you for the feedback! Could you share again your iDrive version (screen size) and the DIP switch setting for all the viewers? Appreciated!

Hi AlexSib, you are talking about the codes for E9x M3 right? I checked on bmwfault.codes and the codes imply broken harness or short circuit of the O2 sensor before cat on bank 2. Please see below; 2729: DME: Oxygen sensor, coast-mode diagnosis before cat., bank 2. Check plug and wiring harness to pre-cat oxygen sensor LSVK B2 (focus on opens in wires for virtual ground and pumping current). 274B: Oxygen sensor pump current calibration fault before cat. converter, bank 2. Check plug and wiring harness on pre-cat oxygen sensor LSVK B2 (especially trim circuit wire IA). Since you have replaced the O2 sensor, there is possibility that the harness or wiring got broken, as indicated by the fault codes. Please come back and let us know your progress!

@@funcarsgoodpeople yes

@@funcarsgoodpeople I checked the wiring, everything is fine. maybe this is due to the installed ESS firmware

Thank you AlexSib, I'm not sure if the aftermarket firmware sets a different standard for triggering the error codes. This has to be verified by ESS. I am thinking of installing a supercharger to the S65 and that requires a new firmware too. I will respond to this comment if I find anything related to the error codes. See you!

Hello Dominik thank you for the feedback! Yes I want to do more videos! Today I will take video about valve stem seal replacement DIY. Hope see you soon!

Hi David, Thank you for the questions! The audio starts (becomes ready) automatically. It is because the iDrive plays CD automatically, and the Mr12volt interface emulates a CD in the optical drive, so the audio system automatically plays any sound from the interface. For the first time use, just select the iDrive media source as the CD, and press the iDrive Menu button to switch Mr12volt user interface (the black top menu as shown in the video) on the display. Then the interface will be the default audio source when the car is started. (The interface powers up when you unlock the car so if you use wireless connection, Carplay will be ready before you start the engine!)

@@funcarsgoodpeople thanks for confirming! My follow up question is: does anyone know of good aftermarket screens that can replace the OEM screen and work with the mr 12 volt? Too bad they don’t offer a screen solution.

Hi David, I did searched for the aftermarket screen+interface that can integrate to the MOST bus, but so far I haven't seen one :( I'd like to have someone telling us about it too!

Hi Terry, thank you for the input. I agree that there's a reason for BMW to design a engine like this. It seems to me that only some of the S65 engines give the crazy rpm fluctuation and misfire codes. I also believe that a brand new S65 engine will not give misfire codes and it may be due to aging of the engine. Sometimes the cold start stalls my engine so I feel it a bit troublesome. What do you think we can do about it?

Hi Judicaël thank you for the message! I am always preoccupied by the thoughts of doing the projects. However I just became a new father of a two-month-old baby 🥹 so I find it impossible to do my hobby… I promise i’ll report to you about those projects! Keep in touch!

@@funcarsgoodpeople Thanks you for your quick response, may Jesus bless your baby and family and don't worry take care of them first 🙏!! I Loved your professionalism details and the vibe that's why I asked ! I'm happily waiting for others videos !!🦾 Greetings from France !

Thank you Judicaël from France! Please don’t hesitate to send me messages. Although I don’t have time for editing right now, I’m very happy to look up any information for your questions. Stay in touch!

Hello Cathy, I don't think it is the O2 sensor problem. Can you read the fault code? The limp mode I mentioned in the video comes with a check engine light. It is a protection mode of the engine. Once entered limp mode, it cannot be exited in a short time. So I don't think your car is in the limp mode. I am guessing the throttle body problem because the throttle response seems very rough. But I am just guessing. Please get a diagnostic tool to read the fault codes. Then we can nail the problem more accurately!

@@funcarsgoodpeople Thank you, you are kind person. I don't have the scanner, I will buy one from eBay or Amazon. Do you recommend any scanner. I am taking my wife car to drive and school run.today I was driving just one mile to testing, there was no loss of power, braking and driving. tonight I am taking risk, driving to work place it around 8 miles. I will report to you. I did see video to put wd40 on turbo actuator and I wiggle it. I cleaned air filter around mass sensor.

@@funcarsgoodpeopleI like to repeat, three months back while driving, whenever driving slow moving traffic, when suddenly when you accelerate, it goes loss of power engine light comes, automatically after few seconds the car itself moves little bit fast(like sudden spike) without putting pedal on accelerator, I have to put my leg on brake because of spike. Then it drives normal. When we stop at traffic light and accelerate loss of power engine light flashes and goes or when we restart engine light goes off. But it happens only occasionally. There is no loss of power when there is no traffic. Last week it stopped middle of the road on signal, I have restart and took the car. I am just afraid take car with family.

Hi Cathy you are welcome. This reply is about OBD2 scanner. BMWs will show its faults in terms of P codes (fault codes beginning with letter P) which is common among most automobiles. So any scanners can read the fault codes. However, BMW has its own code system (4-6 digit number mixed with English letter, as shown in my video) to give very detailed description about certain symptom. i.e. L6 and V8 engines may show same P code about O2 sensor problem, but you have to decode BMW fault code to see which bank of the exhaust is having the problem. I used an OBD2 scanner once but it did not give me enough information, especially for those BMW-specific modules. No corresponding P codes were read out. I use INPA or ISTA, the PC diagnostic software to translate BMW fault codes. But if you feel too inconvenient messing with diagnostic tools, you can go to nearest shop and ask them to read out the fault codes for you. Please take photos of every code you get. I can look it up for you in ISTA. Or if you can get the BMW codes, we can look it up together on bmwfault.codes/

Hi Cathy I got your descriptions. I searched roughly and found that flashing check engine corresponds to misfire. And the failure of high pressure fuel pump (HPFP), which is common problem for N54, can cause the misfire (cylinder not getting enough fuel.) But this is just a rough guess. The check engine light will leave a lot of fault codes for us to troubleshoot. They will tell you which cylinder out of the six is having trouble, or some other malfunctions the car detected. So I suggest doing a diagnosis with OBD2 scanner as the first step!

Hi Angelina, first try playing the first track of the CD. Also try pressing Menu button to switch between iDrive and Mr12volt. And do you originally have a CD changer? If not, you may have to code a CD changer to the car, so the MOST bus can recognize the Mr12volt interface. But I did not do this. The interface works directly. Let me know what you find!

Hi Angelina. Did you work it out what the problem was? I have the same issue right now. Chris

Hi Angelina, Chris @Chris-ru6ir has just solved a similar problem. I quote: "If you switch the DIP switches 4&5 about the correct display size (my display was a big one so 4&5 had to be ON) you have to switch them both(!) together or less than 2 seconds in between." Please see if this helps!

Hi James, thank you very much for the tip!

2013 BMW 320D F30

Hi Keley, an issue similar to yours had been discussed in a previous comment with David (please browse above.) The fault code 8040B9 indicates the car battery is low so the power management system disabled the starter to prevent over-draining the battery. Your battery may be low due to some reasons, or the IBS intelligent battery sensor may be faulty that it couldn't measure the battery health correctly. The former case is very common. If you take out the car battery and fully charge it, remember to register the IBS again(with diagnostic tools), telling the car you have a new/healthy battery. Otherwise the power management system still thinks the battery is low and disables starter. Another code 8040A9 just reminds the user to press the button carefully :D

Thank you for the comment! In Car Techie 🤗

Hi Dave thank you too for the feedback! Android headunits are very popular here in Taiwan but my friends have been complaining a lot about their quality and performance. I’m satisfied with Mr12volt despite that I haven’t solved the sound quality issue I mentioned in the video. I hope this is not going to bother you and you will enjoy the convenience!

Hello José, this module emulates an original CD changer on the MOST bus so no electrical circuit is modified. So far I don’t get any fault codes with ISTA. The installation is reversible and all the original iDrive components and functions are kept. You can still use them anytime!

@@funcarsgoodpeople that sounds pretty good! Thank you very much for taking your time to answer. I will consider this upgrade in the next future. In a daily use, do you really take advantage of CarPlay to make it worth the money it costs, or could we say that CCC+MULF+DAB+IPOD, despite of being old, is enough?

Hi José, I drive about 40 minutes on highway to work. I use a lot of Siri to read and send messages (iMessage or Line). Sometimes I make phone calls. I often listen to music or podcasts and I like to ask Siri skip few minutes to skip ads. Voice assistant is very useful to me. However, using iPod and the 2010’s technology is also an enjoyable nostalgia! It depends on the media source you want to listen to. I tried to listen to CDs but soon I found that I prefer podcasts and music streaming from Spotify 🤗

Hello CrispCarGuru, I searched the part for 335i with steptronic (should be the DCT you are mentioning about) and heater, it is 32306795573, Airbag sport st. whl. lthr Steptronic. I know some 335i can swap M3 DCT steering wheel directly, while some need to modify the shift paddle circuit for their transmission. I have no information about this part so you are welcome to share your success here! Please let everybody know!

@@funcarsgoodpeople thank you.

Big Capybara 你好，根據您的描述，我猜您的配置如下：安卓機輸出AUX音源給iDrive主機、音響擴大機走MOST迴路。如果我誤解了，請再指正 🤗 我也稍微搜尋一下，沒有看到安卓機+螢幕+MOST光纖輸出的產品，真的蠻可惜的。 不過，最接近您的需求的應該是AUX轉MOST光纖輸出的轉換器，這樣的產品就蠻多的，例如這個www.xcarlink.co.uk/most-fiber-optic-aux-in-interface-interface-for-bmw-audi-mmi-mercedes-porsche.html 但應該需要加工一下，把您目前安卓機的音源輸出找出來（但我並沒有使用過這類裝置的經驗）。 最後，因為我們都要求音質，所以音源的類比/數位轉換次數是越少越好。如果加裝上面說的轉換器，其實是把您目前安卓機的音源又再轉換一次，難免會有失真。

Hi A T thank you for the comment 😂 i’m happy that i found a pain reliever for many of us 🥲

Hello Dimitrije, from the error codes it looks like another sensors have failed 🤔 they are the ones before the kat. The o2 sensor has to be heated to their working temperature and the code indicates the heating coil has failed. Usually the coil cannot be repaired so replacement is necessary. But before spending a lot of money for new sensors, please check if the connectors are loose, or the power supply for heating is out. Let me know what you found!

​ Hi @funcarsgoodpeople, after replacement of o2 sensor before kat and drive of 120km it was all okey. But after next start after some time i got another error 002C45 - DME: Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter. I just sow that you did adaptation rest, i didn't do that, because i'm using Carly. Maybe error is because of that or something else, any ideas? Thanks for help

Hello Dimitrije, Please try to reset the adaptation. Actually I forgot to do it after O2 sensor replacement. The DME(ECU) still memorized the erroneous air-to-fuel mixture value so I got same rough idle and misfire upon the very next start. After adaptation reset, the replacement was successful, as shown in the video. I had Carly before and I don’t like it because it kept asking me to pay for its limited functionality. I don’t think it’s useful for your professional DIY. Maybe you can visit local repair shop and ask them to do the reset with their diagnostic tool. I guess this is the quickest way to do the adaptation reset. Best wishes!

002C45 relates to the o2 sensor you replaced. Please check harness connection too!

@@funcarsgoodpeople i just both OBD cable for INPA, do you have some how to guide who to reset the adaptation?

Thank you for your comment, D765LT4! I'm happy you like it 🤩

Hi Chris thank you for the question. Actually I removed and coded out my CD changer before this installation. I just connected everything and it works like a charm. The official instruction says a CD changer is required but this doesn’t look like the case to me. It is not difficult to code a CD changer to your iDrive to work with the interface. Please refer to my other video about coding out the CD changer. Just do it in reverse and the iDrive thinks you have a CD changer. czcams.com/video/RhKOkYNZ65M/video.htmlsi=FkWUSC2aiIirygD0

Hi Carl. I‘ve installed it now (even coded the CDC to be shure) but no Carplay Interface is displayed. If I connect my iPhone to the USB cable it immediately asked if I want to start Carplay. Pressed Yes - but nothing. What did I do wrong?

Strangely it is working now (sort of). If I select the menu button it is displaying shortly the mr12volt menu, and then the display turns black. If I change to thesetting on the box to small screen, it shows and works everything normal - bit fisplayed for small screen. If I switch back on setting to big screen the on/off behaviour again.

I noticed that it actualy is displaying something on the big screen setting , but only hardly so. You can barly see the menu buttons. What can this mean?

Hello Chris, thank you for the feedback. I am happy that you did the coding successfully, but I'm also feeling how frustrated you are. It appears to me that you are encountering a problem associated with display signal, where you have checked the rest of the functions normal (with small screen.) So now, are you able to show the original iDrive screen (by pressing the iDrive Menu button?) I would try to confirm the malfunction of the interface. And if so, reporting to Mr12volt and asking for a new unit will be the best solution :(