Video

No problem!

It should come with everything you need.

@@MicBot not this refurbish one planning to get

Yes it works well. It's not perfect but it's a complete package.

@@MicBot I need an enclosed system for my sprinter van. I’m between this and the uniformation kit

@@demonhogo I just saw your thread on Reddit lol

@@roland2864 haha oh man. The flames there. I’m 1/2 way done building the shelves. It’s going to be epic

Good choice,I now have 12 Bambu printers myself. The best decision I ever made was getting rid of the two ankermake kick-starter printers I had and switching over to bambu. Honestly, I give anker make 3d printing department another year before they declare bankruptcy and shut it down. They messed up badly. Terrible printer, bad timing, too many mistakes back to back and unfulfilled promises. Unfortunately 3D printing manufacturing isn't cut out for every big company.

Coming soon!

I wouldn't be using it on Wi-Fi to begin with. I have mine hardwired.

Thanks for watching! They take up quite a bit of space. I would say get a table that's at least 2.5 ft deep and 5-6 ft long.

@@MicBot ok, thank you. This really helps.

You're welcome!

Glad it helped

I haven't had any issues yet and it's too late for me to return it at this point.

This video is old and I was excited to get started with the new printer LOL

PLA has a life span of 1000 years. I would not worry about it.

Did you figure this issue out?

@@MicBot Yeah I just ended up buying a complete hotend and swapped it. The problem seemed to be the thermester wire

Hello, I will start by saying that I am not affiliated to any 3D printing manufacturers and my reply is based off personal experience. I started with an Ender 5 pro several years ago, I switched to Ankermake which was the biggest 3D printing mistake I have ever made. I ended up using my Ender 5 pro for a little longer. I then decided to try Bambu when they released it publicly. My first bambu was an x1c. Within a day of using it, I sold my Ender 5 pro and 2 Ankermake M5s. I now have 7 Bambu printers. So in short, 100% do not hesitate. It's worth every penny. No more tinkering and the printers just simply work. You get high speed prints at the highest quality possible and the option to add colour units. If you have the money, take advantage of the sale they have going on now. I highly recommend it. I have all there printers so feel free to ask me questions. My favorite is the X1C and P1S. The P1Ps, A1s and mini are great as well. They all have colour units on them.

@@MicBot thanks for the quick response. I am looking at the a1 right now but they are out of stock here in Los Angeles. Would the a1 be a mistake? Also are the print quality roughly the same through the models?

The A1 is decent and similar to the P1S. The A1 has a Hardened extruder while the P1S does not. It's a seperate upgrade for a Hardened one on the P1S. The A1 touch screen is also alot better then the P1S screen. The P1S has an enclosure, chamber fan and filter which will allow you to print ABS and ASA. It also uses the full size AMS which will give you 16 colour capabilities when you're ready for that. The A1 is permanently locked at 4 colours max. If the A1 is inline with your budget and you don't need any of the above mentioned then i'de say go for it. Its also alot easier to maintain and the parts are cheaper to replace. For example the nozzle change takes 30 seconds vs several minutes on the P1S.

@@MicBot what do you recommend between A1 with AMS lite or a P1S without AMS at about the same price? With a cheaper DIY enclosure A1 could print sometimes ASA and ABS?

Yeah it's the most painful part replacement out of all the possible bambu parts. I feel your pain

Glad I could help

Lol thanks. This video was back in my very early CZcams days.

Hello, they should be compatible. I don't work with Eufy and I am not affiliated to them. I can guide you from personal experience only.

No, there are a couple other ways to do it as well.

@@MicBot gotcha. It’s way faster to just add all the filaments at each layer and slice once it seems.

😅

Could be a bad clog. Try heating the Allen key and pushing it into the nozzle trunk a few times, wait a few seconds and pull.

Thanks for watching. You don't need to be a member to watch my videos. All my videos are free for everyone to watch. I don't make these videos to make money on them, but to help the 3D printing community.

​@@MicBot I just said that because your video has a bit at the end along the lines of, 'I'm only releasing this to members, so if you're watching it thanks'. Anyway, it made me feel better when I was dreading that I'd messed up my install. Was fine in the end, though not sure how the experience makes me feel about doing the rest of the P1P->P1S kit.

@@Edramon53 ah yes I started a members only section at that time but I didn't follow through with it yet. For now members only sections are on Patreon which includes one on one chat sessions and walkthroughs for troubleshooting, upgrading and such. The upgrade kit it a very hands on experience and isn't the most straightforward upgrade. It is worth it though.

Correct. No green light means it's not communicating

Yes it levels the bed before every print. It takes around 7-8min before each print but you're then printing at 500mms.

you can choose per print but since it doesn't take long, it's worth the couple extra minutes to make sure you get a good print each time.

Hello,I would recommend this one. Good value. amzn.to/3UW0TfS

I have several videos on how to use Bambu Studio and print. Check out my Bambu playlist.

I would try the default settings first to see if Anker figured it out.

@@MicBot It's printing the fan was on 100 I put it to 25. The right side bottom was messed up because it didn't stick to the platform well. Definetly more stringy I will have to do a little sanding.... So I may have to try something for improvements.

I changed the nozzle temp to 245 its sticking and looking alot better.. gonna learn the rest from your vid

@@TcVideoHosting do not turn the fan on. Keep it off.

​​​@@MicBot I have figured out how to make it work with basic settings on m5c The fan does mess you up if the printer is moving to fast . So I use 5% fan or 10% . When it is printing certain grids and going a certain speed then fan will ruin your print. I am using 248- 250 nozzle temp 88-90 bed temp. 10% outer perimeter support for first layer. May have worded that wrong. Using speed set as Normal then using the phone step it down to 25% to 50% for first layer then turn it to 75 percent after it gets going.... When going 75 or 100% of normal speed having that fan going over 5% will mess your print up... You have to watch this machine , Don't go to sleep while it's printing first couple layers with petg .. the software or something in the program can turn your fan speed up an mess your print up. I think the beds have low spots in some areas. So I am rubbing on adhesive with a paper towel. Let it dissapear then add another coat... I have z offset set to 0.08 now .. I am still learning about z offset but I am reliably printing now ... I will add some of your settings soon. Using push plastics petg

I went with two walls and 15% infill. Typically, I like to go with six walls and 25% infill for something that is a permanent hardware fix like this. The only reason I didn't is because I wasn't sure if I would like the top mount AMS. I was also unsure about the weight since it is hanging off the top bar of the A1.

Thanks for watching! Yes, I will make one this week.

I finished my traming portion yesterday following the video off Bambu’s site via Ricky Impey’s site. But really wanted to post your video was very very precise and clear to follow so happy to report the bed change was perfect. Thank you very much it was a bit more than I expected and could of went bad but your tips I followed to the T! Again thanks a bunch already sent the photos in to Bambu.

Thank you for the kind words 😊

Near the end of the video? They are reading 21 degrees.

@@MicBot 21/0 degrees

@@1943rfagan the temperature of the nozzle is 21 and i don't have it preheating so the target temperature is 0.

@@MicBot oh ok.