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The fact that you spend time here means that you KNOW that Jesus is the Truth. Otherwise, why bother?

@@goldenhopes7433 whistling hand zombie? Tis to laugh.

And bother?

@@parkinson1963 7

Why

Bryan, thank you for the question. BigMike has a Triple Marlin Crawler Transfer case system comprising of 2.28:1, 2.28:1, and 4.70:1 gear sets. Triple are, of course, unnecessary, but with these gears BigMike can demonstrate all our popular gear options: Factory 2.28:1, Single 4.70 (4.70:1), Stock Duals 5.19:1 (2.28 X 2.28), and Dual Ultimate 10.72:1 (2.28 X 4.70). Marlin and BigMike are the only employees with Triples and they do this specifically to demonstrate these available gearing options that we commonly sell! Thanks! Side note: We are migrating all our videos from BigMike's old personal YT account (this account, "Husoku") to our official Marlin Crawler Media account. This video might get deleted and reloaded to our MarlinCrawlerMedia account soon.

Hello John, thank you for the comment. In short, the typical reduction for what we call the Dual Ultimate Setup, is 223:1. In detail, the typical t/case gear reductions our customers run are 2.06-times, 2.28-times, and 4.70-times lower than stock. (BigMike's Triple Ultimate t/case setup is 10.72-times lower than stock, and Marlin's Triple Overkill t/case setup is 22.09-times lower than stock!) With the typical stock axle ratio of 4.11:1, a manual transmission 1979-95 4cyl pickup or 4Runner will have a 1st gear final drive ratio of 37:1. With our basic and simplest to install single 4.70:1 gear set, the final drive goes from 37:1 to 76:1 (or 98:1 with 5.29:1 R&P) With our basic Dual Case setup, the final drive goes from 37:1 to 84:1 (or 108:1 with 5.29:1 R&P) and with our Dual Ultimate Setup, the final drive goes from 37:1 to 174:1 (or 223:1 with 5.29:1 R&P) We call the above the Ultimate ratio because anything around the 200 to 250:1 reduction truly is the ultimate setup for the most demanding situations!

Thanks!

LOL! I was joking, I love the first gens. I have a second. awesome vid!

Probably take about a fortnight to pedal up there with 511:1 ratio, we need a guinea pig....

Might take you awhile to get to work...

Hello Kyle, thank you for the comment. This is a loaded question and you'll see different opinions depending on who you ask. In my opinion, because I also use my truck to drive to the trail and back and do a lot of city and highway driving, I prefer a locker that can be turned off. This also fits my driving style on the trail where I prefer to wheel as much as I can open-open and only use the locker when I am stuck. I find a lot more challenge and control this way. The two choices for me become 1) air-operated or 2) electric-motor-operated. Air operated lockers include the ARB Air Locker and the Yukon Zip Air Locker. Both are excellent choices, but I prefer the electric-motor approach, which is where we take an electric locker from either a FJ80 Land Cruiser or a Tacoma/4Runner and modify our older Hilux axle housings to accommodate. This does require some fabrication work but instead what I did was I installed a complete Tacoma rear axle (1995-2004 8" e-locker type) into the rear of my 1981 pickup. This also gave me the advantage of a wider trackwidth for improved stability. (My front axle is the width of a FJ80 Land Cruiser.) I explain why I prefer the Toyota E-Locker by explaining what I dislike about air operated lockers: An air locker _requires_ air pressure to operate. If you do not have air pressure then the locker does not engage. Therefore, if the air source is ruptured externally (rock snags your air line or exhaust melts it) or internally (ring gear rubs on the copper air line due to installation error) then you are screwed. Also your air compressor could take a dump and you'd be screwed again. (Also if it leaks internally then you will pressurize your axle housing and risk blowing out axle seals.) With an E-Locker, if the motor fries or my wiring melts down or a I blow a fuse and don't have a spare, no biggie, I'll just remove two bolts and slide the motor off and then manually engage or disengage the locker using a flat head screwdriver. Done. So even in the worse case scenario I can have an always open or always locked (spool) e-locker. Then at the end of the trail I can just unlock it and drive home normally without fear or losing control of my vehicle or wearing out tires. Some will say, "oh well you have to wire the e-locker" and my argument is well you have to wire an air locker also: It has switches, relays, wiring, fuses, grounds, etc. There is a good argument for the air locker and that is that it is a stronger design than the Toyota e-locker. But because these older Toyota trucks are lightweight I have never worried about the strength of my e-locker. After all Toyota designed it for a truck much larger than my old Hilux that had a V6 and a towing package so it is plenty strong enough for Rock Crawling. The alternative to all of this is to have an automatic type locking differential where there is no wiring no motors no fuses no compressors to worry about. For this I'd recommend either a Yukon Grizzly or an Eaton Detroit locker. This is a locker that is installed inside your differential and it uses a ratcheting mechanism to sense large differences in torque loading to each axle shaft and engages only when needed. The issue here for me is that it is always there and is unpredictable: If you're going around a highspeed constant corner with dirt or salt in the middle of the road from snow and ice management and you gun it and hit the gas, the locker may (or may not!) engage suddenly even at highway speeds causing your outside tire to loose traction and your truck to oversteer (drift). I'd much rather have a locker where I can choose when to engage it and prevent this. Also when you make sharp corners at low speeds in a parking lot and accelerate the locker will engage and you'll have your tires chirping even trying to find parking in a parking lot which causes a ton of unnecessary wear to very expensive off-road tires! I hope this helped and have a nice day!

+Husoku thanks man for all the info! Im planning on buying an 82 yota in the near future and want to build it so it can be a daily, and good offroad, so the arb air lockers sounds like the best bit

Sounds good. It will cost more up front as air lockers (and also the e-locker) are more expensive and require extra work (wiring, a compressor, etc), but in the long run having a selectable locker will FAR out weigh the initial investment. What we see are many people starting out with an auto locker only 1 or 2 yrs later removing it and switching to a selectable type -- which costs more overall as they have to pull parts out and reset the pattern on their ring and pinions twice. Honestly the freedom of being able to run open or locked at any time is truly amazing. It is awesome to be slowing going down the trail and then suddenly you lose forward momentum and you just sit there slowing spinning a tire.... work the wheel right... then left... ease off the throttle as much as possible without stalling it... and then at the last moment you flip 1 simple switch to engage your locker and WHAM suddenly you magically pull over that rock. It is an amazing feeling! Also one additional thing I forgot to mention is turning capability. We all know why we have a differential in the first place, so that our tires can turn at an unequal rate of rotation, but you don't realize how important this is in terms of your cornering radius until you try turning corners with automatic lockers (Grizzly, Detroit) or worse a fully-locked (Spool or welded). Having the ability to unlock your differential before any tight corners really pays off. I can get through tight corners and technical sections without having to backup when others are making three, four, and five point turns just to get through the trail because they have a welded front end or a Detroit out back. So a greater investment of both money and time up front, but in my opinion it is a no-brainer to go selectable from the beginning and never look back. Also if you ever decide to sell your truck in the future, I guarantee your resell value will be far greater with a selectable locker(s). Regards, BigMike

Just because something predates something doesn't make it any better. And thats the problem..with the marlin crawler being purely based around toyota you've limited your marketing, the atlas has been retrofitted and nearly perfected to suit many different applications including toyota marine,street and off road..even our military uses them in the humvees as well as militaries around the world. So far the the only worthy competition That the Atlas has is the hero case, and even the hero. As for practicality, let's talk about gearing; out of allllll those gears, 13th gear was wayyyyy more gearing than you'll ever need.. I mean shit sure it sounds cool in a conversation but I can achieve the almost the same results with an nv4500 with a granny low 6.37, an 11.70 gear reduction from the atlas, and 5.38 gears.

+Marlin Crawler and as far as I know, the Marlin doesn't have front axle disconnect or rear axle disconnect allowing for front dig. The Atlas does, making it much more sought after with seasoned and professional rock crawlers. 80% of the transfer cases used in King of the hammers, and baja 500/1000 are Atlas's

If I could buy an Atlas that would bolt onto the back of my Toyota Tranny for the same price as a Marlin Crawler adapter, I would. That is simply not the case.

you can. you just need the adapter and you'll have 10x the strength of a marlin crawler. Well worth the investment.

10 times the strength? Bullshit. Atlas 4 speed+Toyota tranny adapter for the same price as a Marlin Crawler adapter? Bullshit. I wholeheartedly agree that the atlas is a badass unit, but it's apples to oranges. Also, I do feel that Marlin Crawler should develop their own transfer case design to compete with the Atlas.