Video

Profiles can be used, but are not required. The Klipper website actually says to enable the feature in your start Gcode: "Due to the nature of skew correction it is recommended to configure skew in your start gcode, after homing and any kind of movement that travels near the edge of the print area such as a purge or nozzle wipe" The website goes on to say you *may* use profiles to accomplish this, but using a profile is not required. I've had it configured in my start GCode for a few months now (as recommended) and it's working perfectly. That said, you can set up profiles if you want to, it's just not required to make use of the feature. This may be a better route for you, depending on how you have your machine and macros setup. I am not using a profile, because it doesn't seem necessary for something that isn't going to change (compared to a bed mesh profile that can be different based on bed temperature). Adding one line in my start gcode takes care of it, and it's working perfectly, so I don't see the need to do anything else.

I did a rebuild of the machine and got a much better result! Also, the angle on the joiner mount isn't a perfect 90 degree corner, so if you really crank down the bolts on the 2020 extrusion, you can feel a little binding and resistance on the linear rails. only tightening one bolt on each side makes it move better. I'll probably change these out soon. I'll be looking to see if there are other joiners that I can try.

I didn't notice any change in sound or noise with these. Might be a tiny bit louder, but I can't say for sure. And you are correct! the readings will come out on the "Z" since the ADXL board is mounted vertically on my toolhead

@@mikey631 you can use a setting axes_map to account for different orientation

Are you able to change your printer.cfg file on the K1? The correction parameters are all in the GCode, but you have to have "[skew_correction]" added somewhere in your printer.cfg for it to work.

You should still have access to the cfg files without any root or ssh.

did some testing today, and was able to get different results when I shimmed up the frame at the front, so I suspect it has gotten a little loose over time. the printer is 2 years old, and has had quite a few mods. I think I need to rebuild the frame and tighten everything up.

Thank you for the detailed response. I looked at some old input shaper graphs, and these secondary peaks recently showed up. I don't think it's the joiners, as there was some weird peaks on a different setup had with the stock ratrig joiners. So I am in the process of trouble shooting what else has changed. though even with these results, VISUALLY, there was an improvement, so there's that. Also as far as Z banding. I did some tuning with flow rate, and have improved that considerably, so I don't think I have major issues with the lead screws. but again, that could be something else to test.

@@mikey631 Yep agree it is unlikely to be your new joiners. More likely to be something that got upset in the process of installing them. Maybe check that you X rail slides freely in the y direction with no binding.

it looks like Marlin has this under "skew compensation". there is a section about it at Marlinfw.org

very valid point! I'll look into adding into the "start print" macro I have saved in Klipper

Agreed it is better in firmware than in the slicer, but XY skew on a core XY is usually the result of an unequal tension on the belts, which twists the gantry, so that’s where it should be taken care of.

how to save it in firmware？

I went through a few different ones myself and like glass best.

@@noanyobiseniss7462 I was a big glass fan. Used hair spray if needed, but I'm blown away on the performance of the WHAMBAM PEX sheet and magnet bed. It was pricey, but works great and just pops off.

it's very similar - Yes! Many of these small extruders are based on the BMG dual-gear setup with a nema 14 motor, but in slightly different packages.

try this github.com/mikey63/Wave-Extruder

ooh, that's an excellent idea! going to try that and report back

@@mikey631 I'd love to see some before after input shaper results!

also I think that those new ceramic heatcore hotends are quiet stringy

that roll of PLA has been sitting out for a few months, which is probably why I got some very minor stringing.

Doesn't mean it's not impressive!

Yep! will be doing an update video on that printer very soon :)

Hey, I never actually got around to removing the shifter assembly. The extra one in the video is a spare I bought second hand before I made the fix, thinking I had to replace it. from what I remember reading in the service manual, it shouldn't be too hard to remove the whole assembly, just remove all the torx bolts from the top, and then you have to disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission from underneath the car. send me a PM, and I'll try to find the page for you

Thank you! I do have a keyboard project I was working on, and would need a PCB for that! I'll message you with more information.

Hi, if you are in the States, you can use SendCutSend, or Laserboost if you are in Europe. I've used both of those places, and prices are very reasonable for laser cut aluminum.

Hi, maybe it's not showing up on mobile, but do you have a link to your part? Oh wait, I found your designs and will download your model and take a look!

Yes! you leave the 4 mounting bolts a bit loose when you are ready to tension the belts. Use the knob to pull the tensioners to the tighten the belts, and then tighten the mounting bolts to lock everything in place. the bolts are easy to access, and I even left a small hole in the top plate to get to the bolt that is closes to the corner.

@@mikey631 Actually I am working on very similar design work for my DIY printer too. Thx for letting me know it is indeed a practical one 👍🏻

Light weight babayyyyyy -Ronnie Coleman

I have notice the OMG V2 extruder, this designs seems even better@@hd-be7di

Yep! MihaiDesigns and MirageC have some pretty good videos regarding the inherent flaws of the dual gear bondtech-type extruders. Bondtech has released their new integrated drive gears, which should help the issue, but as you know, we are quite limited with our current options for small form-factor extruders. That said, I do have an old Titan extruder I used for my first hypercube build a few years ago that has a single drive gear. I'm Looking at it now, and I think there may be a way to design a shell for it that will accept a nema 14 motor. Could be a decent alternative to a dual drive unit? And as far as pushing force, you really don't need a ton of pushing force, as long as you have a hotend that can melt the filament as fast as you want to extrude it. Being able to melt plastic quick enough is more important. This is why we are seeing extruders with longer melt zones and heater blocks. This allows for much faster printing speeds with the same type of small extruder/motor combo as this one!

@@mikey631 I think the Titan would be a really good option. It´s light, small part count, easy to clean/work with and works just fine. I mean the goal is to push filament in a well controlled manner with some force a Titan can do exactly that. Absolutely, if your pushing forces get too hight it simply means your melt zone is not big enough for the throughput. I absolutely agree with you. Also let me say, the HX ExtrudORT is pretty good overall. I am thinking of printing my own version now (just with an idler instead of 2nd Gear), good job with the design. If you are concerned with weight, try to cut down on bolts and other metal components. You can use counter sunk bolts for instance and make them 5mm shorter instead the regular zylinder head ones. replacing the 2nd gear with a smaller bearing and there might be a potential to replace some nuts with nylon nuts. Also cut out some material from the housing.

​@@mikey631instead of the titan, just use this design but with 1 bondtech OEM idga gear and 1 bearing like mirage c showed in his video.

:-) That's another little project I've been working on. Hope to have a video on both of these by next week.

which kit did you get to make the extruder? At 3:05, I explain that not every kit has the same size main gear, and this extruder only works with the kits that follow the same size as the BMG gear, which is 3mm thick.

You're welcome!! I made some updates to the model (added the voron 0.2 printhead), and will be updating the Github this weekend. stay tuned!