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Anytime there is a headgasket change, the engine needs a full on fluid change and bleeding, New oil / filters, coolant. You should check if your engine doesn't overheat, any liquid puddles under the car, and if your vents blow hot air. See if the engine revs are normal and it doesn't stumble or are irregular. It could be trapped air in the heater and the water pump pushing it around, but then your engine would overheat

@@KlavsX_ When it's on temperature the car iddles are not good stationary, it has dips, almost like it want to shutt off, then comes back normal iddle. the temperature is stable at 90 degrees in the middle. The heater blows hot air but in my opinion way too hot at max temp. But car stays at temperature. I'm going back tomorrow but i'm scared to blow up the headgasket! Or maybe it is already..

idle problems can be PCV valve / fuel / ignition related.

the vacuum to PCV, it isn't the only way, but one of them. But you might have a bigger problem, dipstick is connected to the oil pan, is your car idling / driving normally?

@@KlavsX_ yes the idling is not doing anything strange, just about 1000 RPM for a while on start, and then totally stable around 600 RPM, during driving it doesnt do anything weird, however i feel like its a bit weak, but cant say for sure as i havent ever had another cx5 2.0

When was the last service on spark plugs / fuel filter / oil / and all air filters? That could be one of the causes of the weak.

@@KlavsX_ i have only replaced spark plugs, its suposeedly up for 10k oil replacement in about 1.5, but i will do it all this week, thanks for the info, i will comment again after doing these changes

Good luck and have fun. 👍

If it's connected to the headlights, then turn the light to Auto, but if it's something else, then easy way would be disconnect the battery and let the computer reset. Other way, go manually through the settings and turn it back to auto mode, with the help of the mazda owners manual.

When the rubber is cracked or if the car feels clucky while taking a corner, driving over speed bumps you might feel more in he steering wheel

Did you check the bulbs? Start with the easiest things and go up, bulbs, fuse, wiring

👍

Is it? Even the same part number? That's interesting, that will open up possibilities and more parts

@@KlavsX_ at least structurally, its the same

🤔 Yeah, that would be the best way to remove them nuts, with as less struggle as possible

You change the clock in the same way you navigate the menu on the car. Once you press the set button, very first thing what you can change is the clock.

You are welcome, Glad this video could help. Oh, you got lucky it fell in that kind of location you could reach it. 👍

👌 Hope it was easier for you. 👍 Glad you like the video. xD Well, that's just a fact of life, without impact you struggle 😅

Lucky for you. Where I live (10 mile radius) there are NONE. Only automated car washes

Oh, I don't know the model. I literally went on amazon, wrote mini angle grinder and 3rd cheapest.... buy now. :D it's some chinesium one

Hi. I do like it more than my previous BMW. BMW was quieter on the highway and lower RPM's on high speed, but the Mazda feels more stable and comfortable. 170 HP is plenty, IF you are lead footed, you will burn your tires off in first gear. Estate's need the boot cover, as it's doesn't have that much sound dampening in the rear. Just to be clear going around 120 km/h your revs will be 2800 rpm - 3200 rpm. ( that's how it is on my car) The gear ration is pretty weird. At least in the UK models.

@@KlavsX_ thank you for your answer. Yes the RPM is bit high for 2.5 engine but i heard that even if it's high the sound isolation is very good that's what i read on internet in car test drive but i guess a owner experience is more precise

You are welcome. Well there lies a problem, each person is different, so what they like and don't can't be taken as a 100%. For you the best way would be the test drive the car yourself. For how long I owned my car, I would go for long road trip without any problems.

It's choose your company and grade of the plug. I have no problems with the spark plugs, and the engine runs sweet.

What exactly isn't working?

@@KlavsX_ folding n unfolding,just making annoying noise.

🤔 Sounds like the gear is gone. I'll look into it, but the mechanism should be behind the mirror

@@KlavsX_ ok thanks mate,I think it’s the gear

Fixed it in another video. 👍

100% agree, if States would get the wagon, there would be more aftermarket parts too.

😏 And no antiroll bar

Glad I did that in the first video 😎

Hello. You might be lucky, been able to buy a ''standard'' hatchback tow hitch kit and bolt it on. You need to take of the rear bumper and the crash support off, measure from the bolt holes to bolt holes, how long you need the bar to be. And if it fits, you might be able to bolt a Ford tow hitch. ( some Ford parts fit on mazda gh models) All will be decided in the measurements

😅 I don't like automatic, their gear changes are slow and delayed. Pretty much a slush box right away.

I I found this grill on eBay, scrap yards and such should have this kind of style grills too. Glad you like these videos 👍

Sounds like it is a design/ manufacturer problem. Such things shouldn't happen to the brakes. OR people don't service them when it's needed 😅

Its both, The slide pins usually get stuck because of the rubber on the end of the slide pin. But the pads get stuck because people usually dont do anything with the brakes until the pads are worn out. Rear pads wear slowly so overtime it gets stuck due to lack of lubrication and rust!​@@KlavsX_

Yeah, you nailed it. I find it weird, that people don't check up on rears when they do the fronts. 🤔 If the front rubber is split and cracked, so are the rears. To lube stuff up and check if things are alright, would go a long way, and the rears would last longer. 🤔 Or it's just me 😅 overthinking

😅 You can remove the pins and wiggle the caliper, so the pads brake lose ( Lose enough to remove the caliper)

👍 Thanks mate

That would be an camshaft position sensor, or VVT sensor. On the left side, is the VVT sensor, right side is the CPS

@@KlavsX_ I noticed its slightly oily around that sensor as if some pressurized oil spilled around it, any idea why or how that happend? i didnt have the sealing on top replaced cause it cracked and leaked into the spark plugs, could that be the reason and now it should be fine after its replaced? thanks for answering!

You are welcome. Well the sensor should have a rubber O ring around it, so the oil doesn't leak. Same as valve cover gasket, other components on top have an O right or a gasket too

👍 Doing what I can. Glad that you like the content 👌

😏 I guess time to learn some football slang and make DIY car videos with them 😅😂👍😏😂😂😂

@@KlavsX_ Haha 😆😆👍🏻💯⭐

Hello. This sounds like one of the sensors are losing connections to the key. I can give you few points to go from. If the car battery is low / needs jump start, the sensors can malfunction. In the key itself the battery going flat. Might be that The sensor pins / plugs have corrosion inside and losing connection You can check fuses for the green death. All that system is literally ( 4 or 6 sensors around the car) Door handles, boot lid, middle console near the gear shifter , and near the start button. If any of them have a issue that could happen. Keep me update what you or have been done, so we can go deeper in this problem

@@KlavsX_ Thanks so much, it is very frustrating, it happens 4 times in 2 years and in September we should go to see, but now we are afraid to, as it happened again yesterday, so I obd2 return key. Anyways, battery car is new one,never jump start. Battery in keys both are new , no problem with that neither. I have changed 5 months ago modul under the dash board, thinking that was the problem, but now it happened again. Obviously it's something else ,as I found your video I thought it could be the trunk antena, I don't have any other idea. (( But I sam so frustrating, burned alot of money in this car I loved it, it has amazing fuel economy just 5 l, I tuned it good inside out but still now when I can't solve problem don't know what to do.

@@KlavsX_ When this problem happens, car can be locked and unlocked, last time I couldn't close windows on keyhob, but yesterday I could. That's the only difference from last time I had problem. Also I think it happened as side passenger door was closed stronger, ( like smashed closed as idiots close door/) but I can't know for sure, after passenger came in , it couldn't recognize the key anymore.

If you have any sensor problem the red key symbol will be lit on the dash, and won't disappear when you start the engine. Just to be sure did you program the module to the car and the key? Throwing parts won't solve the problem, you need to find the problem, before even thinking of buying anything. BTW, you might have the same problem I had, in the video named Dashing Job, with a proper diagnostic tool, it would be a guessing game. My problem was that the computer lost the signal code from the key and didn't allow the car to start. I followed the instructions and all worked great. Since that time no problems at all.

@@KlavsX_ Klavs , thank you so much for your time! I will check your video and let you know. This gremlins are freaking me out. Hope I will solve. I wish to remove imoblizer option completely, if you have any idea how to remove it, it will be awesome. So I don't have any more locking keys options.

👍 Glad you liked this video. You are welcome 👍

There is an access panel, though, I couldn't film or make any sense of what I was doing or unplugging. I found the panel a few weeks ago when an oil bottle knocked it out. 😂

@@KlavsX_your video is still invaluable. I had a quick check. The access port is damn tight. The owners manual says to turn anti clockwise to get the socket out but it wouldn’t budge. I may try and disconnect the plug first and get the wiring out of the way. I am hoping there is no top bolt and it is only the 2 bolts on the bottom. Otherwise it’s going to be painful to get a 10mm socket up there.

There are 3 nuts together, 2 on the bottom and 1 on the top. Yeah, it is tight and you can't see anything. Imagine how much I would be able to show to people if I went through that access port 😅 and tried to film what I was doing. That's called mission impossible with unusable footage 😂

@@KlavsX_so today I got as far as unplugging the 2 light sockets and the 12 volt outlet. But the outlet is still in the way. I can only fit the 10mm socket bit in there and not the socket handle which I will need for leverage. I’m studying your video in slow motion and I think the outlet is removable as I see a tab of some kind. I was working outside and the sun was setting so was forced to plug all the wiring back in. Will try again next weekend. Possible the easier solution is buy a 10mm spanner instead and slowly loosen it then use my fingers.

Yeah, it is a process and if you never done it before, it will take you time. first time always takes 3 x the amount you are thinking it will take. After that, you will be a pro. Good luck and hope you can fix , change what you have to do 👍

😅 I would recommend to watch the video again. 😅

@@KlavsX_ no need. I have done this before and akebono brakes need a service every tyre change. When pads are on 50% wear change them, service the calipers and you wont have to change them.

😅 Wasn't the point but alright. I did mention in the video ''I should replace all of this, but not in the budget''😂 Would recommend one thing, If the brake disc is in good shape don't change your pads when they are 50 %, you are literally throwing out 30% of usable material ( if your brake pads have the wear tab, that is a sign when to actually change them).

That sounds like a rush job. somebody did it the fastest way possible

I'm no mechanic, but The grease and stuff I did was to spec. (I did confirm with an actual mechanic and his words were ''you're not a mechanic nor is that a race car,'' that's fine. I would love to own a dial gauge so I can measure it and show people how to do it. 👍 Pads are good, they sit tightly in the carrier/metal hardware, only missing the steel wire that pushes out the pads

😂 Then easy fix for you. I would recommend all new parts, so this doesn't happen again, but hey, if the budgets doesn't allow, this is a good way out too.

Thank you. Nice job, hope your's didn't fight back :D The pad pins / pad wire is missing, so I will put them on when I get them in mail. I should have done exactly the same thing as you did, new caliper, pads, rotors all the hardware.

@@KlavsX_ I watching your vids all the time , keep up the good work. Perhaps you will do a clutch replacement in near future? ,i will probably watch that too, because i will have to change it on mine

Glad you enjoy the videos 👍You can bet on that. I will do clutch change. Might even go for a different flywheel. But that's in the future

😅 Ah, the voice over clip?

Thank you, few of them songs are new from my friend

😅 Them bottler aren't mine. They are a project for the workshop

👋👋

Thank you

You are welcome. Noice, wrench bros. ✌ It should

Does it switches off or losing connection for some time? One could be fixed other is a sign the monitor will give out soon

Let's start this problem diving on simple questions, then we dig deeper. Does your Mazda got Auto-light on? Is the dash light turned on to max? Are the light symbol on the dash when your headlights are on?

@@KlavsX_ autolight on, yes dash light on to max, idk how to chamge it to max light symbol on the dash when headlights on, no

there are 2 twist dials on your speedo, once of them is trip reset, other is dash light intensity.

@@KlavsX_ oh yes, theres only 2 options on that light intensity, low and high, its set on high but only the lil screen that shows the km and trip and heat outside and the radio screen

🤔 Then next would be take the unit out and check pins in the plug and unit

The headunit is separate from the settings on the menu.( there is a separate wiring harness for the menu display) So you still should be able to use the wheel controls for the menu and stuff, you will lose the media control

Thank you for the feedback, but I would like to fully understand and confirm this with you. Your complaint is that - I didn't put New and Old fluid in sample-size containers and compare them in front of a source of light? Did I understand correctly? 🤔

Sort of that comparison as you mentioned. I know extra few minutes for test but worth to see fluid didn't get black just bit more brown colour. Up to last month had Mazda 6 2 gen and did lot of work to bring car on good tracks. I were partially inspired with your yt channel😊

👍 Glad you had inspiration to fix up the old car, not to scrap it or bring it for a trade-in. 👌 I know what you want to say, that, in 500 or how many miles I did, the oil changed to a bit more brown, but sadly... My Mazda's previous owner didn't believe in servicing the car, so I would need more flushes to achieve what you mentioned. The first time I did change, I found black sludge on the drain bolt. I want to get to that state, when I Drain the gearbox oil and it's just a bit browner I will be happy.

You are welcome. Glad these videos can help you. All of us are in the same boat. Mechanics are overcharging or there aren't any good ones around.