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little forest
Finland
Registrace 30. 10. 2017
Woodworking
with well sharpened hand-tools and selected power-tools.
Keeping an eye on creating environmental friendly things.
Most wood comes from surrounding forests: Birch, Alder, Mountain Ash, Juniperus, Pine, Spruce, Populus and some Fruit trees from the garden or neighbours. From all these trees there might be very different material: bark, roots, straight or curvy wood, cancers, branches or mushroom patterned.
Waht is not wood is mostly recycled.
All in all, "Selfmade" might describe my work the best.
Roof Truss Timber Frame - sawmill to raising
Restoring old wooden log cabin, milling wood on Logosol band sawmill (B751), traditional wood joints (Japanese and Western) with hand tools and wooden nails, wood brushing, raising timber frame.
------------------------------
00:00 the Sawmill
02:19 the 'Bridge'
04:58 Pillars & Purlins
08:40 Brushed Wood
14:12 Hand Made Wooden Nails
- Did you let the beams dry before installing them?
No, not really. I felled the pine (for the headbands and the large uprights of the bridge) a year before installation, in a very cold winter and when the moon was waning, i.e. so-called moon wood.
Everything else was made from standing dead wood (spruce) - in other words, comparatively dry material.
- Why at 7:12 the purlins are not sawn straight, 90 °?
It would be impossible to put them together. But with a little angle, i took 3cm on 24 cm hight, the just jump in, nearly from alone like shown in 12:06
- Is there still snow in your garden?
No, only in some shady forests, there are the last spots slowly melting. Since about one week summer came and we are now working bare foot ;-)
------------------------------
00:00 the Sawmill
02:19 the 'Bridge'
04:58 Pillars & Purlins
08:40 Brushed Wood
14:12 Hand Made Wooden Nails
- Did you let the beams dry before installing them?
No, not really. I felled the pine (for the headbands and the large uprights of the bridge) a year before installation, in a very cold winter and when the moon was waning, i.e. so-called moon wood.
Everything else was made from standing dead wood (spruce) - in other words, comparatively dry material.
- Why at 7:12 the purlins are not sawn straight, 90 °?
It would be impossible to put them together. But with a little angle, i took 3cm on 24 cm hight, the just jump in, nearly from alone like shown in 12:06
- Is there still snow in your garden?
No, only in some shady forests, there are the last spots slowly melting. Since about one week summer came and we are now working bare foot ;-)
zhlédnutí: 1 605
Video
Flattening Natural Sharpening Stones - easy & cheap Method
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 2 měsíci
Razor sharp woodworking hand tools with little and payable equipment. New method for very hard japanese wet or water stones and extrem hard natural stones like Wästikivi. I have tried many lapping methods - this simple way came out to be the most efficient. For more info please open the full text below! If you got interested in natural stones from Finland, you can find them here: wastikivi.fi -...
Strong Joint - Timber Frame Roof Truss II
zhlédnutí 3,1KPřed 3 měsíci
Timber Frame - tension joinery - Tie Beam to Post - hand made. How to connect vertical & horizontal timber with a Wedged & Pegged Half Dove-Tailed Through Shoulder Tenon and a naturally curved brace. Similar to japanese 'Kashigi Oozier Hobo Sash'. Traditional wood working with hand tools. 'This is one of the most interesting and effective joints in timber framing.' writes Steve Chappell in his ...
Arched Brace - Timber Frame Roof Truss I
zhlédnutí 2,7KPřed 4 měsíci
Timber Frame, Lofting / Drafting in 1:1, Hewing by hand with self made axe, Joinery with Hand Tools only, collar tie, arched brace, purlin, self designed joints - traditional Western & Japanese style. Forest log hut restoration. For more information please open the subtitles and read the text below. 00:00 intro 02:01 Lofting / Drafting 1:1 09:10 Hewing the Braces 12:37 Joinery - Tie Beam to Arc...
Wästikivi - Sharpening Stones from Finland
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 5 měsíci
Sharpening with natural stones - Wästikivi & Orivesi - made in Finland / Suomi. Hand plane and chisel, Japanese and European. Lapping / Flattening. Testing on hard and soft wood. Razor sharp. For more information please open the full text & subtitles! - Where can these stones be found? In a mine in Längelmäki - central Finland. If you do not want not go this far, you can go straight to wästikiv...
flattening sharpening stones - the self made method
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 6 měsíci
Lapping whet stones - the cheap, easy, zero-waste, ecological, simple, DIY method with three self made clinker bricks. Works for Japanese water stones (Naniva, Shapton, Imanishi, Shin Nagura…), hard natural stones (wästikivi…), and even for lapping stones. Complete how to guide. For more information please open the full text & subtitles. - Which brick to choose? It should be hard enough and suc...
sharpen the un-sharpenable - grinder method
zhlédnutí 4,8KPřed 7 měsíci
How to get a cheap, industrial hand saw sharp again? Sharpen woodworking hand tools. Trimming, removing old teeth, shaping for fast cross cuts, setting and final sharpening. With grinder and few files. For more information please open full text & subtitles! - Does this makes sense? Who am I to have an opinion about it? For me it did, that's all i can say. - After removing the hardened teeth, wi...
Flattening & Sharpening - the dry Grinder method
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed 7 měsíci
Restoring a gouge, how to get the inner side straight? Flattening / straightenin / lapping with an angle grinder, sharpening with Japanese whetstone, sandpaper and leather strop. Works for all woodworking hand tools: hand planes, chisels, slicks... For more information open subtitles & full text! - Why to use the grinder? There is no need for a grinder. Just sandpaper on round wood can be enoug...
How to sharpen large wood working blades - flattening the back side, Japanese way
zhlédnutí 4,2KPřed 7 měsíci
Restoring a large timber frame chisel slick or other hand tools with a Japanese twist. Lapping flat side with a wet stone grinder, Tormek machine. Bevelling and final sharpening with whetstones, Shapton. Works also for large plane blades! For more information open subtitles & full text! - What is the Japanese twist? To get the flat side really flat just using whetstones is possible. It is a way...
Log Building Repair - Support Beam
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 8 měsíci
Log cabin restoration - strengthening bent log house wall with support beam / follower. Self made timber frame with pine wood and hand tools. More info: Subtitels & open here down! - What is it good for? This support beam will keep the wall from bending more. It is used in old buildings which got weak with time or in case of adding bigger windows or additional doors which would weaken the wall....
Woodworker's Coffee - grown in North
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 8 měsíci
Try to DIY: Let’s have a delicious, self-made and self-roasted coffee, free of caffeine using locally collected acorns from oak trees. It is the ideal drink for the woodman or women in the workshop or out on the land of the northern forests. A little step to more self-sustainability. - Why to soak it in water? In oak wood and acorns there are tannins, a bitter stuff the tree uses to keep eaters...
making a Crooked Knife - Mocotaugan - iron recycling
zhlédnutí 5KPřed rokem
With an axe, this is the bushcraft tool native americans used to build all they needed, from snowshoes to birch bark canoes. Easy bushcraft blacksmithing for beginners on firewood and with hand-tools only. For more information please open the full description! - What makes this tool special? It is used pulling, bit like japanese tools. It might take bit time to get used to it, but it seems to m...
Wooden Screw - new tools & adapted method
zhlédnutí 59KPřed rokem
Some news about my wooden screw production. Traditional hand-tools only, wood from own forests, blockhouse workshop. They can be used to build your own workbench (Roubo or Moravian) for the Legvice or Tailvice. For more information please open the full description: - What has been changed exactly? Basically the Pitch has been reduced to 17mm and the inner diameter has been enlarged to 47mm. The...
Handpowered Sawmill - Log to Timber with HandTools
zhlédnutí 88KPřed 2 lety
Cutting logs or branches into timber / lumber with handtools only in a small apartment workshop. Possible? Yes it is! No need for a saw mill, machines or other high-tech. Just a Ripcut Saw and some nice (not too big) logs or branches of your favourite wood. For more INFORMATION, please open the full description! - Can you explain this method in words? First it is important to mark accurately. T...
Wooden Plane Tuning
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 2 lety
Upgrading Wooden Planes or recycling an old screw. Just a little idea, an easy project for your traditional woodworking hand tools. For more INFORMATION, please open the full description! - Why to put these screws? Hammering onto the naked wood will leave some marks and if made often and hard it may harm your plane. Additional to this I like these screws, cause it gives me a better feeling whil...
Those are some robust, strong threads on that vise. I am seriously impressed with your skills. Amazing You may consider melting some wax and brushing it on the threads. What did you soak the blank in before you cut the threads? Was it Tung oil?
Great work!
What was the shaving tool you used to smooth the cuts?
a simple hand plane. Can use a small one like jack or smoothing plane, or specially for longe boards a jointer plane.
Beautifully cut threads!
Tremendous!
Wow.Beautifull.😊
you make Mr. Chickadee look like a whiny cry-baby .... just joking, you are both purists i love to see succeed.
Wonderful instructions, but I still do not know at what angle to cut the two wooden blocks to hold the cutter blade. Just asking for a friend who wants to copy your creation 😊 .
That's the nice thing with self made things - you are free to choose! Steeper angle and the screw will close/open faster - lower angle and the screw will close/open more precisely. In other words, this angle is defining the TPI / Turn Per Inch.
Well since I have never tried making anything but a tooth pick, I will do my best 😂 !
Cool
Спасибо! Всё просто и понятно.
Tell us apart your particular rip saw; how many tpi, maker, age . Thanks.
Hello Micheal - saw is made by Thomas Flinn - Sheffield, maybe 5 years old, 4,5 TPI, Rip-shape.
You have far more free time than me
Nice and precise work! Videography is good as well.
Hieno! Pitikö hakea rakennuslupaa ja oliko sen kanssa vaikeuksia?
I love this, both the craftsmanship and the video style/editing. You've made me consider doing this instead of buying a metal vice screw
Nice hear - than my goal has been achieved :-) Hopefully it works out well!
I'm very impressed with the precision of your work. Inspiring to watch
Fantastic work. A great finish, looks really nice, and functional too. Are you happy with it?
hmm, bit early to say. But what i am sure: i am happy, that i took the decision to make this roof the traditional hand tool way - cause, it was fun :-)
Nice work, looks like a lot stronger construction than what was originally there.
Original was plenty strong, but this gives more room upstairs :)
❤
Good stuff mate.
Awesome raised grain finish
This is an absolutely amazing work bench. Fantastic!
Superb screwology
Nice build, whats your experience with the rocsutec stone? Ive heard many times that this stone cuts to slow
The Roszutec is a fine stone with grid 6000-8000. So, if it is used for sharpening, yes it would be rather slow (like any other 6000-8000 stone). But if it is used to get rid of the burr after sharpening on a coarser stone and to get a really sharp and polished edge, than it does a great job. Generally the disadvantage with natural stones are, that they are less aggressive, due to the hardness. But this hardness usually brings also some advantages: No soaking required, stays flat longer. If you need a coarser (faster) stone and would go for natural stones, i can recommend the Wästikivi.
How do you get access to the finer stones of Wästikivi? I've only seen the 600-1000 and felt like it would be handy to have a bit of a broader range of stones.
Hello Yuppi, i had contact with the stoneman few days ago. The finer stones have been bought out. But since few days, the ice has melted from his stoneplace and he can start working again. So, hopefully they are soon available again. If i hear something more detailed, i'll let you know :-)
Maybe the best, you contact him: wastikivi@wastikivi.fi - he is called Ilkka and understands english. Hopefully you will get what you need - these are great stones :-)
@@littleforest I was just going to write to you, "where did you find this orivesi stone?" thanks for info. This 4000-grain stone must be top. In fact, am in way to find an alternative to blue belgium stone (grit 4000) but i found this stone smooth.
Unfortunately i do not know, if there are these finer stones available right now. Ilkka, the stoneman told me, he was making more of them this year - maybe he is still in progress. If you are realy interested, just write him a mail (mentioned above). Maybe you are lucky to find what you need. If not, also the blue belgium stones can be good. I have a small one in use for little blades like carving knifes. But it is too small to compare to the bigger wastikivi i use for plane and chisel blades.
@@littleforest Thanks a bunch! I'm actually Finnish so communicating is not a problem, wasn't aware they're so seasonal in sales! So I suppose it's just best to keep checking regularly.
You are a legend dude! Master craftsman, amazing and inspirational to me
I find this so useful and empowering
Thank you for this video! I will try this out - you might have safed me from buying one of these expensive diamond stones.
Fiiiirst
I would be very interested in this finer stone. Unfortunately i could not find it anywhere. Only the 'normal' wastikivi seems available. Does anyone has a hint, where to find one??
I heard, that the finer stones got sold out last automn. And during winter, the stoneman does not have access to his stone-place. But since few days the snow has melted. You can always write him a message: wastikivi@wastikivi.fi
I'm just curious - did you get one of the finer wastikivi stones?
Thank you for sharing all these little tricks😊
I am bit confused: old wood on new lucking foundations... are you building a new cabin with old logs? Than, you'd have made the shown job before putting the windows... hmm i m just curious😉
Well seen! The foundations had been brocken. So last year, we liftet the cabin, digged new wholes and put the foundations you can see now in this video.
Thank you for this interesting video on an interesting topic! It seems to me, that you are using a rather small cordless drill - for this rather big job. Would you share some of your ideas and expirience about it?
Yes, it is a small machine. I was looking for something 'made in Europe', or at least not from China. There is Mafell, Festool and Fein. (did i forget something?) This Fein has 12 V only, but four gears, the first one is rather slow but very strong. I can drill wholes till 50 mm in wood. Screws, 25cm by 6mm no problem. For the wholes it is anyways better to turn slow, to not overheat the drill, and for the screws, i do not care if it takes 3 seconds more or less. I rarely put more than 10 this sized screws in a row. The advantage is, that this machine is much lighter than all these oversized 18V monsters. Hope there was something helpful for you ;-)
I like this tiny little wooden plane you are using to bring the square wood to round. Did you make it yourself?
It was once a gift from my dad, just for decoration. I added a chisel-blade inside, and it is now a good helper of beauty and practical value :-)
Nice video. It seems, that you are using these very cheap chinese blue drillbits. How you find them? Are they worth saving the money compared to european quality bits?
Oh, no, these drills have only one value: raw material for the recycling. For forstner drill bits i can recommend Fisch (Austria) or Famag (Germany).
Incradible work.
Хорошая работа!)))
Thank you for sharing the build with us, can’t wait to cut some of these myself! And awesome plaid shirt, love that pattern, where can I buy one??
Got it from my grandpa - maybe not on sale anymore ;-)
@@littleforest ah nice! :) and I think you are right, only finding a few things from that brand for sale secondhand online. Have searched and searched for fabric in that pattern, no luck on an exact match yet. But maybe I’ll find something close and make one!
Fun!
Super 👌
Like a glove! ✊🍷🎩🎩🎩🙏
Very interesting plane, being a noob, I haven't seen this design before! Nice craftsmanship too... and my workshop don't even go above freezing in winter! Subscribed!
Will it hold the edge? Some of you have been asking - i have been wondering myself. It has been in use now for few weeks, i have used it for the new roof truss. And few days ago i decided to re sharpen it. Not because it was blunt, but because it was not perfectly sharp any more. Nor did i count the hours or cuts i have made, neither can i define in words what exactly i mean with 'blunt' or 'sharp' - but what i can share is, that it feels very similar to my new bought rip cut saw (William Greaves - Sheffield): they have been used and sharpened simultaniously. This saw has got two different hardenings: one on the tips only + one on the entire blade (if not, the blade would bent with the first stroke). So, the question is, if this softer hardening makes a useful saw or not. It might not work on any saw, but with this one, i can say that it worked out very well. Important is, to remove the hardened tips carefully, without overheating the blade and therefore destroying the second, softer hardening of the blade. In my case, the saw is made by Bahco with swedish steel (5-6€ cheap) Did someone try this out on other saws? How did it work out?
That is actually a nice looking little spoon...
Hood eork.🎉
I like your method of marking a pencil line, by sneaking the square up onto it. Never seen that before, but I sure will be using it forward! Thank you. And very nice, precision cutting. I wish for you, a nice wooden handle on your crosscut saw :) Also, very sharp chisels - beautiful result. Congrats Sir!
You are welcome :-) Yes, this wooden handle might be done ... one day... I whish you an enjoyable spring.
Just found your channel :-) What a beautiful and informative movie! Thanx for al the little tricks you shared. I specially like the curved braces and to put them in both different ways. Not every thing has to be made like in a schoolbook - It will add some kind of freedom spirit to your cabbine. As i am working similar project, there is one question turning around in my mind: Is it possible to use fresh wood or is it necessary to let it dry first? What did you use for your timber frame?
There might be different approaches to this topic. I would say, that it is an advantage to use dry wood. But to get dry wood ( naturally dried) in these dimension is maybe rather unrealistic. I would not use machine dried wood. So, in most cases it ends up with more or less fresh wood. The pine (used on the braces and as arched braces in the previous video) is harvested one year ago. So it is 'half' dried, at least well settled. The spruce (post & beams) are harvested just few weeks ago. But i had the chance to find standing dead wood. It had many years to settle and dry in a very gentle way. In my eyes, this is the best wood to use for timber framing - if available. Storm or bug damaged wood might be a similar source.
Sorry for the long comment, but perhaps you will find this information both corrective and useful in your future work...You kind of lost me on this one with "strong joint" unless that was a question (?) which in this case is, "Sorry, no, not really, for several reasons." First, I think this is out of context with Steve's work. Second, your relationship within the video's demonstration of a European version of a joint as compared to Japanese (or Asian timber frame joinery) is out of context as this more reinvented (or reinterpreted) European styles of joinery to some degree, and applying them to what is Asian modalities, while using a "mill rule" or "edge rule" layout system rather than what is found in Japan which is the ancient "Line Rule," modalities of layout which are very different systems and approaches. Third the nomenclature seems to be incorrect (???) as I have never heard of..."Kashigi Oozier Hobo Sash"...though this could just be a poor translation. If you did mean...傾ぎ大入れ - “Kashigi dai ire”...thought not “very strong in this application as would be a through tenon and wedges as found in Dutch Barns, or in the Japanese vernacular a 鼻栓 - “Bisen” type joint like… 鼻栓ホゾ - “Bisen hozo” in one of the larger forms… Your “Wedged Dovetail” (片下げあり - Kata sage ari) looks well executed, however they are seldom pegged as there is little reason to do so. Pinning the wedge in place would be more advantageous if worried about displacement over time as the “relish” on the tenon makes the pegs pointless. In a lateral load, the relish would just rip out. The tenon on the brace is entirely incorrect for taking the greatest advantage of the wood's natural strength. It is also an "oblique brace" in the vertical orientation which is seldom to never used in Asian architecture where (if used) is typically in the foundation and in a horizontal orientation from sill beam to sill beam (火打梁 - “Hiuchibari”)...or...in roofs from rafter plate to rafter plate. If vertical "brace beams" are employed they are huge and act as "wind bracing" within lashed rafter systems as found in traditional Minka… If this feedback was of value, please feel free to ask more questions...Thanks for sharing your work on this project...
Mr Whitecloud, you strike again. You are literally, present in a ton of places on the internet. You come across as an expert or seriously informed in so many different disciplines that its hard to believe anymore. It feels as if you spend your life on the internet, due to the never ending commentary on all things you offer. Permies. CZcams. Other forums. From a non expert, but observer of everything. Be well personally.
@@LitoGeorge Hello George…The web’s algorithms make suggestions to watch and I share what I’ve been lucking to learn. As for “expert” that is for others to consider; I dwell on it little. I have been blessed to be raised in and live a more traditional life; getting to meet others of like kind over the decades along the way and share it where it seems fit or asked to (ie. forums, etc.) What one chooses to believe (or not) has no real bearing on the information shared. My time “online” is limited to a cup of tea in the morning and late at night as I sleep little…and when lucky enough to be near this computer…LOL!
@@littleforest I will gladly remove the comment @littleforest if it was not of value to you, or you find such comment disrupting to the harmony of your channel...
@@JayCWhiteCloud Hi - you should apply to the Guiness Book of World Records for having the worlds largest ever cup of tea. Keep on experting.... cheers
Good morning Mr Whitecloud :-) I consider the freedom of speech as something valuable. As long as they are somehow polite, i do not erase comments. So, you are free to do with your comment what feels right for you. And it is up to the reader to see what opinion or point of view he/she takes as an inspiration.
Please find a better solution for camera holding. I almost got seasick from watching 😂 ..other than that - beautiful work. A true craftsman in action 👌
Oh yes, i have had it in mind since a while... I am than wondering if i focus on finding a new stand or putting the new floor first (which is now the source of the shaking). Let's see, where the flow is leading ;-)
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