Video

You're welcome, happy I could help

Thanks man, I appreciate you

No problem at all and def it is getting around that time to replace the battery. I am happy I could help :) thanks for checking out my vid

Thanks man I appreciate you and your awesome comment. Thanks again so much for checking me out

That is a wonderful surprise , I am happy for you! just a cleaning needed is always the best outcome . Congrats again and thanks for checking out my video

It didnt make a huge difference but it did lower my fan sound. I take it because at that time I was running my deck non stop. summing it up, the fan was a not as loud when running on max load

I know, me too I wish they were on with their projections on making this real. I know someone out to CZcamsrs to review but nothing for the main public

Yeah I can see why saying easy is a relative thing

I know, I wish they would just keep communication open cuz I know how many of us are really excited for this mod. Like just letting us know where the progress is would be amazing

Yup, it would definitely work with a standard game cube controller.

That theme is street fire! That whole theme is just motivation right there

That couldn't be more accurate

That does sound super frustrating. If you're having problems like that I suggest checking out the wiki in my description and going under the section ' Audio / Video / Powerbox Wiring Reference' It may help you if you need to run a bypass

@RetroRepairYT I give up. I basically learned that i needed flux. Kept ruining pads, it's too much for me. I ordered flux and everything should go smoother on future repair attempts.

I understand dude, yeah flux is a highly needed thing if you want to preserve pads. But you will see though that with flux the pads will attract like a magnet.

Shootz what do ya mean?​@@RetroRepairYT

That is a good question. I would have to go by speculation on this for if I knew the creators I would ask. But my speculation is. When you create a board like the kunai GC it has multiple layers in it for different traces leading to the IC or other components such as the memory on the board things like that. So if we think about that you can kind of see it in your mind as like a highway stacked on another highway with different lanes. And there could be more lanes stacked on top of those lanes. Personally I'm not sure because I do not have access to the CAD files or Gerber files. Now let's talk about the quick solder board. This specifically only has one job and it's to go from top to bottom of that board on the cascillated parts and lead out to solder pads. In the manufacturing process the machines can only do what their inputted at for a bulk production run. Which means the kunai GC is most likely made multiple at once on one consistent board and then it's cut to separate the individual kunai GCs to make it a product. So really they can't switch board layered specifications when they're making a huge PCB wafer of many kunai gcs So they would have to make another huge board of many quick soccer boards on it with those specifications of layers. Again this is only speculation but highly plausible from this thought process. And it's done like this because it's the cheapest way to manufacture in batch form. Now I know I just wrote you a book and I am sorry. But I really do hope that it made sense.

Thank you so much! I hope you have fun with that new amount of storage :)

Interesting, I would try swapping the paddles around to see if you can get it to click. If that works then that means you have use those paddles so much you have worn them down. And I would recommend getting a new set of paddles if that works

Bro I fixed it by putting a piece of paper on the button outside in the back and now I can feel the click

Thanks for the input, I'll be louder in my next video

Thank so much and thanks for the info. I will definitely keep that in mind on my next restoration

This is a true statement, idk why I wasted so much time messing with the board

I feel that, at times it is more relaxing to play this way for longer sessions and you don't have to crane your neck because of a hand held

Thanks so much for your awesome compliment ☺️

Thanks man, me either. I just thought 'man this is glass why can't I use a windshield repair kit' happy it worked the way it did

Thanks so much 😊

Thanks for the compliment and the insight. That is calming to know. I appreciate the insight

Thanks man I appreciate it. Your troubles are similar to these fixes so you can make that Sony shine

You know it man. Sunsofts epic sound track !

Thanks dude, I super appreciate that awesome feedback

That one is about $120 if we're talking about the automatic one not the manual hand one

@@RetroRepairYT yeah i know how much it is iv had it on my amazon list for years just never pulled the trigger ... is it worth it

To me it is when I get to more than 5 through hole points it lets me go to town. But the real area where it shines to me is when I use low melt solder. It makes taking low melt soler off a dream. Feels like a vacuum cleaner.

I see good question, I would say scrape back the solder mask near where you lifted that pad and you should see the trace that leads to the pad. You could solder a small wire that leads from the revealed trace to the actual solder point on the horizon potentiometer. That's what I usually do if I lift a pad

Got you, check the link again it goes to a GitHub now. You should be good

You're very welcome. I'm happy I could help. Have fun with the extra space your about to have

Well, you're not wrong

Xbox is goated

You know it, honestly it felt like dipping my hand into a garbage can. It felt so gross touching this thing. Hence the gloves :)

It happens

@@RetroRepairYT LOL

You're right, it's probably not but hopefully it will help someone trying to fix one. That's my only hope for the video tbh

Going to be a great video! Can't wait. All the used ones I've seen have stick and bumper problems, good luck!

Thanks so much, on the real, around me it's hard to find a second hand one that doesn't have one of those two problems

Well at least it was 40 lol

Right, only the price was good. I was originally told it works still but it's been a while. XD guess that was code for "all the things are broken".

You are right , that one is so very good !!!

That is true, that brings me back to. I remember that too. It felt like time didn't exist and for me. It was just my brother's and I passing the controller every time one of us died . Thanks for sharing and jogging my memory

@@RetroRepairYT no problem I love to be able to help people have happy memories

I can feel that too. It's so good! golden eye on 64 reminds me that all of my neighborhood friends would get together after playing football to do a 4 player match for hours till the sun went down. Them feelings are real

I'm just happy it's still kicken with gen z, it shows it is timeless and still kills it

Good call on that, that music is sooo good !!!

No problem, happy I could help

Oh I see, you're saying since it's not the original 72 pin connector because it's an aftermarket one? If so the local shop that I got it from had replace the 72 pin connector because of the blinking light issue. So it did have the original one but the same issue occurred and then it was fixed for a little bit and then it came back after some time the 72 pin connector was changed to an aftermarket one. Thank you so much for your comment

Cutting Pin 4 of the 10NES is what every owner should do. The toploader NES version doesn't even have it.

I wanted to recap the NES , that was what I decided since I was going to be in it anyways. I agree the caps looked fine. None of them were leaking. It was more of a calming thought to know new caps are installed on my NES. Thanks so much for the comment

There's no doing it wrong if you get the results you want. I do like the sound of your method. If it's all right with you I would like to try that sometime. Thank you so much for letting me know. And thank you so much for your comment

I'm a EE and design circuits for guitar pedals..... the easiest way to desolder components is to just apply a big blob of solder to both legs and they will just fall out. Suck or braid any excess solder left behind and add ur new component. Use leaded solder always, and I suggest Kester 63/37 "no clean" solder. (I still clean up with 91% isopropyl)

Thanks for this ! It definitely sounds like the most efficient way possible. I will have to work this into my workflow. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thanks so much for the helpful comment

No problem at all, I'm happy I could be of help. Thanks so much for your comment

You are correct it is a solder sucker. But I've had a few ,like four or five, and the suction on this particular one is substantially stronger than the other ones I own. And I do have a desoldering gun as well. The thing is, is that the reason why I got a desoldering gun is because my handful of solder suckers that I did have or not working like this one. So at that point I decided to get a de-soldering gun. And I'm not saying go buy this thing I'm just saying this works better for me in my workflow than the other solder suckers and the desoldering gun for small jobs such as this one. Now it would be different if I had to desolder 40 holes or something like that for a big chip or a cartridge connector. That's what I would pull out my desoldering gun. But if it's an in and out job like this hands down I am happy with just that solder sucker

Still, you did a bunch of capacitors all at once. In that case I still think I'd reach for the Hot Moo.

I can very much see your point

@@RetroRepairYT Thanks for the in depth answer! I’ve got a few odd and end tools but I’m still working up the nerve to try repair. I’ve only soldered once and it was just shy of a disaster. You sure do make it look easy though.

Not a problem, thank you so much for the compliment. Please understand it took me a long time to get to where I was confident enough to start repairing. I would break a lot of things. Meaning things would not turn back on. But I have a saying for that, I call it 'tuition' . It's not only the price it cost for the item that has broken. It's also the pain of not repairing something you wanted to but to analyze and understand why it didn't work out the way you wanted it to. So the tuition isn't a failure it's knowledge to take to your next item you want to repair. Again once you do it enough you'll start winning the way you want to

I can understand that with RF Shields. I have cut myself many times because of them. I keep a quick medical kit at my workbench just in case I need a bandage up. I see, I didn't know that thank you so much for that insight. When I repair others I will definitely have to take your method because at that point I will need to be in and out for time purposes. That sounds like a better idea then snipping the leg. And it sounds less invasive than the way I did it. Thank you for that as well I will have to try that method too. Thanks so much for adding to my toolbox with your comment. I really do appreciate it