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My 49cm bike came with 170mm cranks. Lately they just seem way too long. My cadence is 93 RPM which I like but occasionally I feel side to side rocking. I rarely use the drops, either. I'm 5'5" with about 29"-29.5" inseam and considering 165mm cranks.

Im planning to to 165mm from 172.5 My question i plan to 165 what is the best crank gear 52x32 or i go to 53? 5,9 height

Most of the Chicago made Schwinns came with 165mm onr piece crank sets ... regardless of size.

Hi, I’m experiencing something similar, and have saddle sores on my right side as well as lower back pain. I saw a fitter, but still experiencing discomfort. My right leg knee also doesn’t track super straight. Assuming I’m comfortable on the bike on the front end, would a change in seat height be a change I could try it, and if so, which direction? Up or down?

Chain on left side?

I put the vt30c on my road bike which is pretty much the same as the F series just lower cost and maybe cheaper material for the padding. I love it and find it made a world of difference! For comfort.

Are there any cons to shorter cranks like 145mm when sprinting? Also may i know the customer’s inseam?

Thanks for showing the effects in real time. It clearly demonstrates what other videos only talk about.

I am 177 cm. tall and I just switched from 170 to 165. Improvement in many ways including comfort, cadence, more aero position, etc., except for the out-of-saddle pedalling where it feels a bit awkward due to the smaller circle I'm dancing on.

Hello im 5’5 and currently using 170mm can you recommend 165? and chainring is sram 48/35 with 11/36 12speed.

Poggie is 5'9" and uses 165mm cranks for what that's worth! I am 5'9.5" and just installed 165mm tonight in place of 170mm. First ride is tomorrow but on the trainer, a few mm higher saddle height, things felt really good and smooth. Weight on hands still feels good even without changing setback (minus the small amt from the saddle height increase). I had a bike fit a couple years ago on 172.5s and the fitter said I had a little right side hip impingement. I figure going down another size from 170mm couldn't hurt and will probably be easier on my aging hips and knees. Why not.

Thanks! I found a shop with Selle and ended up with a Lite 209, can last much longer in the saddle now

Thanks for the video. I have a single speed from State that I was thinking to make my dedicated Zwift bike. Installing a bicycle on a trainer requires a quick release skewer. Do you have any suggestions on converting a single speed rear cog to a quick release?

Great thanks so much for your time and consideration and I will be in the morning and I will be in the morning and I will be in the

160cm height, is 165mm for xc racing okay?

I'm 5'6" and I have 165mm

I wish there were more saddle fit centres rather than bike fit!

Good to know. I have the Blaster on two bikes and looking for another for my dedicated indoor bike, might try this if I can find one. Thanks

Big Evolution fan and found to like better than the Blaster, similar but different. Do you think the Evo would still be a good candidate to try? Could use a bigger opening and the Evo appears to have that.

Thanks, I completely agree, the bike industry needs to change this antiquated de facto standard of 170mm+ cranks. I'm 5'8", got myself some 152mm cranks (originally for ebikes). The old belief that there's less torque is only because when measured at the center of the crank arms, not at the wheels, which goes through gearing. So crank length affects body geometry, power is comparable *at the wheels* through gearing.

Is the shell of the EVO more flexible than the Blaster and the other older models?

Which saddle would you say best matches the Well S? I am currently on a Well S Gel and have experienced the sharper pressure on the rear of the seat as you have described. The shape however is excellent and if I get the height, setback, and angle just right I can ride without thinking about the saddle.

Thank you! A nice simple explanation that I will need to try out tomorrow morning. I've been mostly seeing lower back pain but also chafing, which I'm thinking is due to seat too high and seat too far set back. I did recently level out my saddle, but may need to move it a little back even more. I'll definitely try the leaning forward test too. I only have a 6mi each way commute but also don't wear cycling clothing.

If you are favoring a side will the power be maldistributed left/ right?

Have a box full of seats,they all hurt my ass regardless of all the claims,so I just use what looks good & not pay attention to the advertising

Great to know what it's similar to. I wonder if SMP is going to revamp their whole line with this new construction method? Great saddles, confusing naming... like they have an Evolution model... but it's not the Evo haha.

SMP are my favourite too...

I'm a big fan of the F30 for MTB/CX/gravel, both leisure, training and racing. I'm also a big fan of the Dynamic for road and gravel, definitely for leisure and training. I'm a little mixed about the Dynamic for racing, just depends on the race. I might need to swap the Dynamic out for another SMP during racing season, especially with crits.

I think that because saddle orientation/location is the first(?), step in fitting from which everything else is based on you could revisit and explain how to determine setback and why some companies use the 70mm width of the saddle measurement behind the BB (sella italia), and others use the nose of the saddle in front of the BB. Or put another way compare/contrast pros/cons of different methods 🤷‍♂️ Thanks!

Tried one made me hurt. Went back to my selle Italia sport and I don't hurt now. Sport is not a sexy saddle but very comfortable. They don't last forever but they're cheap. They have similar shape to the old selle Italia flite with more padding and flex. Have them on mtb&road one saddle to rule them all. For the money worth a try.

Could you explain how to reduce hip dropping or twisting on the downstroke?

I was wondering, given that reach from the nose of the saddle to the hoods is in the right Ballpark, is there a major difference between shorter reach and more drop or vice versa? Greets from Germany

The 'no hands test' is great to determine your saddle setback and saddle angle in order to ride comfortable. But you have to execute it at a higher power output (wattage). When doing Zone 2 rides however, you ride at lower power output and you feel definitely more weight on your hands. How do you solve this problem in order to ride comfortably for a long ride with a lower power output?

I want to go shorter. I'm 1.68m. Used 172.5 and now 170. I ve moved my saddle multiple times up and down to adjust it. Still have some lateral movement. Want to go 160 as per your suggestion. Only problem that I have is powermeters. I have stages and 4iiii on my bikes and they don't make powermeters for 160m cranks. This sucks. The only option is to get powermeter pedals which as quite pricey and heavy.

I used to ride 165 cranks, now being older, I prefer 175 with a lower cadence.

Through trial and error, I’ve found that the SMP Composit and Evolution work well for me.

Im 5'5 feet and happy with 155mm cranks

I am 5'5 feet tall, I'm very happy and satisfied in my 155mm length crank, big leap from 170mm to 155mm, and I think I am comfortable in 155mm to 160mm length I guess

Check out Croder Cycling. They make a modular crankset similar to Rotor's ALDHU using a 24mm axle with crank arm lengths down to 140mm. Price is roughly half of an ALDHU.

Put 165mm on ones of my race bikes, felt fine. Went fast, got a pb on a hill last weekend in a tt so no downside. Im 5'8"... used 155mm back in the 90s... all good.

If you know your riding style will be changing from a higher load to a lighter load (zone1 or 2), would you recommend moving the saddle back so there’s not as much weight of the hands on the bars?

Excellent video and good comparison on what saddle for what type of riding, Ive been wondering about that. - I have the F30 and love it

Nice job!

You left out Dixna La cranks... Down to 135 I believe. Small BCD also so you can put on sub-compact rings. Great for bikepacking set up.

I like many aspects of SMP but I find they transmit more road shock than other saddles. The rails attach directly under the sit bones, rather than behind as on most saddles. The shell is thick and unyielding under the sit bones, so any “give” in the saddle needs to come from the padding only. That eliminates the hammock effect that most saddles have. For me, Selle SMPs feel great in the studio and on the trainer, but on long rides they beat me up too much.

400 bucks for a crank is cheap? Wow. Thankfully i went square tapered sugino for 100 bucks ish. Russ from pathlesspedaled has used 160mm la dixna cranks (ht2) from japan with great success. also available up to 145mm if im not mistaken.

well it different for everybody, no one are build alike, in old days here in Dk, two 6 days stars who was same height and lenght, but they coulndt use the others bike. ITS a stupid idea that we all should use same , im a shorter guy and my best times are with a 172,5 mm I allways used shorter, but 172,5 is the best option for me (170 cm)

Scram just released 160 in red. Also anyone looking for carbon cranks check out elilee I have two cranks from them. One is with a titanium 24 spindle and the other with dub spindle made out of aluminum. Cranks weigh 310 and 340

Oh damn. I didn’t realise my 160mm 105’s were discontinued. Was hoping one day I’ll be able to get an Ultegra or DA 160mm crank one day.

Sugino makes some short cranks as well.