I'm 5'4" (163cm) and ride 155mm (Rotor, 24mm and 30mm universal options) and 160mm (Shimano R7100 12sp on an 11sp setup) cranks on my bike. I have limited range of motion with my left knee (poor form on 140kg squats) and shorter cranks have been a lifesaver for me. I like the benefit of being able to spin, especially on sprints (130rpm). Just a point to note, you may need to increase your gearing due to shortened lever arm. With Rotor, you can buy their 1-piece double chainring from 46/30 and up. For Shimano, consider a bigger cassette.
Years ago I bought a Trek 62cm road bike that amazingly had 170mm cranks on it. I’m guessing it was a factory mistake but it worked really well for me. Years later after selling that bike for a xl frame Giant Defy I never felt like my peddling was quite as smooth and fast as my Trek was. I decided I’m going to switch out the 175’s for 170’s. I think the reason why shorter cranks work for me is because my lower part of my legs are long compared to the upper part of my legs. I have a 35.5” inseam, btw. I think it helps round out my peddle stroke better. Thanks for sharing this information, nice video!
After years of fiddling around with wedges due to knee pain I recently discovered that with 165 mm cranks ( & solestar insoles / neutral cleats placement maxed out towards the heel ) everything was ok again. This is totally overlooked, and I agree that 172.5 and 170 is the same. Pretty silly actually how people from 160cm to 200cm body length are now being sold a bike with 170/175 cranks. Handlebar width is another overlooked issue , 42cm is too wide for a lot of people.
Thinking of going to shorter cranks on my CX/ gravel/ everyday bike. Tall person on size 58/ 60 or XL frames currently have 175mm so on the fence about it as bike part money needs to go else where for new fork, as stem with angled up 6-8 degrees stem on the very top of fork and cannot lower it or it will be a bad fit. Then longer cage on the RD for bigger cogs in back on 1x set with no FD cable routing. Tough call what to do first.
Bike fit first, this is the correct answer. Personally I run 165mm on two bikes and I'm 177cm. I have no issues riding my son's bike with 172.5mm cranks and have found there's no difference in power output.
Hi I am 179cm height with 91kgs, went from 170mm to 165mm on TT bike. Trying to tweak the fit (saddle height from bb and fore/aft from bars etc)from 170mm bikefit. Should the saddle rise by the same difference? 5mm
When going from longer to shorter length cranks should the saddle height and set back be 1 to 1? Example: going from 172.5 to 165 should I raise saddle 7.5mm and set it back 7.5 mm?
No What I generally recommend is, don’t move fore aft - keep as is. Instead simply raise saddle 50% of the crank length difference, and give that a go. Good luck !
I'm 5'4" (163cm) and ride 155mm (Rotor, 24mm and 30mm universal options) and 160mm (Shimano R7100 12sp on an 11sp setup) cranks on my bike. I have limited range of motion with my left knee (poor form on 140kg squats) and shorter cranks have been a lifesaver for me. I like the benefit of being able to spin, especially on sprints (130rpm).
Just a point to note, you may need to increase your gearing due to shortened lever arm. With Rotor, you can buy their 1-piece double chainring from 46/30 and up. For Shimano, consider a bigger cassette.
I'm 193cm and changed to from 175 to 185mm.
Best upgrade I've ever done.
Congratulations
what is your cranks brand/model of 185mm? for road bikes I saw only 180,mm maximum
Years ago I bought a Trek 62cm road bike that amazingly had 170mm cranks on it. I’m guessing it was a factory mistake but it worked really well for me. Years later after selling that bike for a xl frame Giant Defy I never felt like my peddling was quite as smooth and fast as my Trek was. I decided I’m going to switch out the 175’s for 170’s. I think the reason why shorter cranks work for me is because my lower part of my legs are long compared to the upper part of my legs. I have a 35.5” inseam, btw. I think it helps round out my peddle stroke better. Thanks for sharing this information, nice video!
Very cool! Thanks for sharing - I’m glad those 170s snuck their way in!
that's right. crank length depends no only your height and inseam length, but also on the ratio of the length of the thigh and the length of the shin
After years of fiddling around with wedges due to knee pain I recently discovered that with 165 mm cranks ( & solestar insoles / neutral cleats placement maxed out towards the heel ) everything was ok again. This is totally overlooked, and I agree that 172.5 and 170 is the same. Pretty silly actually how people from 160cm to 200cm body length are now being sold a bike with 170/175 cranks. Handlebar width is another overlooked issue , 42cm is too wide for a lot of people.
💯
I am 1,97 but after continuing kneeboains I just switched from 175 to 170
Thinking of going to shorter cranks on my CX/ gravel/ everyday bike. Tall person on size 58/ 60 or XL frames currently have 175mm so on the fence about it as bike part money needs to go else where for new fork, as stem with angled up 6-8 degrees stem on the very top of fork and cannot lower it or it will be a bad fit. Then longer cage on the RD for bigger cogs in back on 1x set with no FD cable routing. Tough call what to do first.
Bike fit first, this is the correct answer. Personally I run 165mm on two bikes and I'm 177cm. I have no issues riding my son's bike with 172.5mm cranks and have found there's no difference in power output.
I am 192cm and ride 175mm cranks. I got knee and hip/lower back issues but only on one side. should I try a shorter crank anyway?
It wouldn’t hurt. If you have issues on one side then I’d highly recommend getting checked out by a direct-observation bike fitter
Hi I am 179cm height with 91kgs, went from 170mm to 165mm on TT bike. Trying to tweak the fit (saddle height from bb and fore/aft from bars etc)from 170mm bikefit. Should the saddle rise by the same difference? 5mm
That’s right - with 165s raise your saddle 5mm.
When going from longer to shorter length cranks should the saddle height and set back be 1 to 1? Example: going from 172.5 to 165 should I raise saddle 7.5mm and set it back 7.5 mm?
No
What I generally recommend is, don’t move fore aft - keep as is.
Instead simply raise saddle 50% of the crank length difference, and give that a go. Good luck !
@@greshfit awesome thanks for the tips
I'm 5'7" (170 cm) and will go from 165 to a 145mm cranks
Would a shorter crank necessitate a height adjustment for the saddle?
Yep.... I usually start with raising the saddle 50% of the difference. So if going from 170 to 160, raise the saddle 5mm. Good luck!
@@greshfit OK, thanks. Appreciate your help.
Hello im 5’5 and currently using 170mm can you recommend 165? and chainring is sram 48/35 with 11/36 12speed.
165 no question
160 better yet
Can the crank arm be separated from the crank or is it all one unit?
Depending on the brand - the crank arms and chain ring can be separated if that’s what you mean
Im 5'5 feet and happy with 155mm cranks
1.93m and recently went from 175 to 170mm just to give it a try. Haven’t made my mind up yet which I like better..
I'm 5'6" and I have 165mm
178cm 172.5mm
spinning smaller circles----- may require bigger gears
5 foot 6? I'll look that up.
Lol