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I managed to develop a roll of Agfa Isopan ISS that I found in a camera that I estimate was exposed in the mid 50's. There were images, I wasn't really expecting anything, but there are actual images with identifiable subjects. Which honestly shocked me. Now that was thankfully b&w which tends to age better.

Votre vidéo est très bien faite, avec les couleurs (gamme) et vos prises de vues ensuite, en 6 X 6 du plus bel effet en diapositive.Vous montrez ensuite des planches contact en 35 mm, mais ici, les couleurs paraissent fanées,vos photos en extérieur sont très biens. Si vous développez votre diapositive comme un négatif couleur,vous aurez un négatif sans le filtre orange, et si vous allez à l'agrandisseur, il faudra sur filtrer en jaune.Un film négatif, développé comme une diapositive, vous aurez une diapo avec le filtre orange, et après tirage sur papier, vous aurez un négatif.Avant la fin de la vidéo, qu'est-ce que vous avez voulu dire avec la planche contact sans vraiment de couleurs et les dominantes sur les photos. On a l'impression d'avoir un bain de négatif qui n'aurait pas atteint la température réelle du révélateur.

You should red scale the film and cross process in E6 so the film is color balanced a bit better

Shooting at 800 for everything to me is stupid. I was an Army photographer back in the Neolithic film age. I did mostly photojournalism work and the primary film I used was PlusX 125 ISO. Developed in Microdol-X. It had really fine grain, great tone and dynamic range with good contrast. If it was a darker overcast day. I might use TriX 400 ISO film. We did use a lot of FP4 and some HP5 but it doesn’t give the same results as PlusX with the developer I used. I never pulled film. There was no need for it. If I wanted slower like 25 ISO it was because it was the finest grain. You do this because it has the sharpest image with the most dynamic range and with 35 mm film you can make a poster sized print with little to no grain. And I don’t know what you are metering for but on a sunny day you can shoot 25 ISO film at 1/125 at f/8 or 1/1000 at f/2.8. What lens are you using? Are you using a lens with a maximum aperture of f/3.4 or something. Cause if you are your TTL metering is going to be off by two stops, use a handheld meter. A good one. If you are shooting color film and want a little bit of a pastel look, yes, pull it one maybe two stops tops for artistic sake but not with B&W. 800 ISO has no reciprocity for daylight, unless you use a camera with shutter speeds over 1/4000. Film isn’t digital so you shouldn’t try and shoot it speeds it wasn’t made for. Especially since there are film speeds made in that ISO. In the past TriX was rated at 200, and some cameras only went up to 1/500. And the standard film used was 64 ISO. Use the slowest film for the lighting conditions for best results, I usually start at 100 ISO for daylight, but will go for 25 to 64, if I want more reciprocity. I use 400 and higher only for lower lighting conditions, if I don’t use a flash.

from the creators of "can it run Doom?" comes... "can it trichrome?"

When those turn out, they look great. A color infrared one would look killer if nailed.

Hey, just wanted to drop you a note sunce I think we're in the same town. Not sure why I'm only finding your channel now. I guess the algorithm is finally working.

Gah! I should have watched this before underexposing and underdeveloping my roll.

"I use Rodinal 1:25 at 100°C for about 5 seconds" just great

can you redscale this film please (or any Aerocolor IV film)? since it has a clear base I would like to see how it looks with the red layer first and the blue layer last

I know I'm over 3 years late to the party and you probably won't see this, but... Maybe two of my questions can be answered at once with this suggestion if the rolls are still waiting on ideas... they probably aren't. Is it possible to do bleach bypass in E6? Or is that just a C41 thing? If you can, my, probably ridiculous, idea is to shoot it red scale and then cross process it in E6 with bleach bypass if possible... I think my punctuation in that sentence was correct. Weird sentence to write out.

This tracks with my experience with expired Lucky color. I shot three rolls from three different sources and they ranged from "completely unusable" to "almost not terrible". Plus two of them had fungus growing in the emulsion, which I only ever experienced with badly stored film from the 1970s before.

The labels on the backs made me irrationally angry lmao

What not to do with this film? Buy it. I had a roll come out loosely wound from the camera. I'm expecting light fogging. I haven't had that problem with other brands of film.

UNFATHOMABLY based

I had escura from kick starter was kinda disappointing and I got this as well. If the could clear out the black frame and fully cover the install square would be great. My dark slide was also scratched due to the crank as well. Manual ejection for me is good so I could be creative with multi exposure

I enjoy the idea of single digit ISO film that is this sharp. Good, logical tradeoff. 10/10 would try.

Asides from my previous comment, I liked the third roll of 204,800 ISO push. It looked much better from the other 2 tries and… kinda workable?

c h i r o p r a c t o r

I found an unopened bottle of Orwo R09 from the late 80s (the East German equivalent of Rodinal, supposedly using an older formula) in the attic last year. It's been sitting there for over 30 years, going through big temperature changes in all this time and... it's fine. Somehow doesn't even have any solids on the bottom of the bottle as far as I can tell. The concentrate is pretty much black but seemed to work perfectly well on the short test I've done, I really should do more with it.

For a moment, when you were talking about having plastic development tanks, I thought you just put the film in a pot in the darkroom and poured developer into it xdd.

4:21 this cross-processing would make fitting images for emo-punk rock album.

4:39 made my jaw drop

I had good results pushing those films during development.

Lucky Super 100 was all I used in 2012/3, and it suuuuuuuucked

use adox adotech 4 for better contrast (its used for CMS 20) or if you want to push process, use paper developer like dektol, interesting that it doesn't seem to have anti-halation by the translucency of it but outdoors that ortho looks really crisp!

Eterna RDS 4791 is the only "cinema" film that Fuji still carries as of 2024 (granted... it's a technical separation film, but still). I'm guessing you have to order it in bulk directly from Fuji, since I've never seen it at B&H or other places. I am curious if Fuji produces the film themselves in their Ashigara plant or if someone else produces it for them. Have thought about buying some off of ebay... but I didn't realize that it was orthochromatic. Still, a good looking film -- like an Ortho version of Fuji Acros.

any sort of copy film NEEDS to be stand developed to have any hope of taming contrast. Or 2 bath developed, same idea

We got internet

I bet that would be awesome for a half frame camera.

4:24 wow, they look like Meteor M satellite HRPT imagery, I guess using 2 channels for RGB gives the same color scheme

Once this stuff works it looks amazing! That first roll really caught me off guard!

Que grandes fotografias me ha encantado la de la botella y su huella chapo me quito el sombrero, haber yo no soy quimico , soy aficionado dentro de ese paquete hay los quimicos como el Metol y el Sulfito de sodio por este lado es posible que sean los quimicos y el factor decisibo es el Metol y el sulfito de sodio ya que parece ser que la hidroquinona dejo de funcionar debido a la oxidacion, bien hay un tipico revelador Kodak no comercializado que es D-23 si nos fijamos solo son 2 componentes 7,5 g de Metol y 100 g de sulfito de sodio, hay un curios baño de el señor Stoeckler de 2 Baños con casi los mismos quimicos, formula 2 baños - Baño A metol 5 g sulfito de sodio 100 g 1´ m 1 litro water- Baño B Borax 10 g 1´ m 1 litro water y funciona eso quiere decir que en realidad el D-76 funcionara ya que dispone de un revelador que es el Metol es mi humilde opinion, por cierto suelo usar esos reveladores tanto D-76 como mi queridisimo D-23 un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.

Polecam spróbować Kodak estar 1241 to jest mikrofon dokument ISO 6 albo 3 zależy jak i w czym jest wywoływany. Kontrast można zmniejszyć rozcieńczanie wywoływacza

I have a roll of RDS sitting in my freezer.

Attic Darkroom: in case you thought you knew about every film stock in existence.

Think ISO 12 is slow? I've got about 500' left of some Kodak print distribution color film that's ISO 3-6 and tungsten balanced. It's ECP-2E but there isn't any remjet, so you can do it in C-41. I'll spool up some rolls and send them your way.

Looks cool though.

Reminds me a lot of Kodak 2237. Nice vid as always

The master tinkerer. Love how you can make such a black hole of an exploration in niche timesinks so entertaining. Hope you enjoy making thisbstuff as much as i always look forward to the next one😅

Cool video. The film looks a bit like the FPP Super Positive film. I think that is ISO 1.6. I love your channel, always a hoot to see what you are trichroming next.

Trichroming with orthochromatic archival film is the kind of wacky fun I subscribed for.

How clear is the base ?? Candidate for B&W reversal ??

Looks just like lithography film. Kodalith also has a similar-ish ruddy red/brown base color and yields what I would consider similarly contrasty and nearly grain-less results at around 12ISO.

It looks like you have a micro film in your hand, I have worked with Fuji micro film, I recommend the Kodak D19 developer.

3:48 put it together?!?!? NAH you lit the runway up!

Idk what you’re talking about half the time but you’re the man

What about trichrome it as Green+Blue+UV ?

What the HELL! 610 Meters on this small roll?! crazy

Have you ever tried developing with caffenol?