Video

@@WOGOSPACE oh wow! That's interesting! Send me photos of it to my Facebook or Instagram that are both under Eddies Customs and Restorations

@@TheseBygones not a silly question at all. Just thin it down with urethane reducer to where it's thinner and lays down like a base coat basically. So if the epoxy you are using is mixed 4:1 then I would do. 4 parts epoxy, 1 part hardner and 1 part urethane and then spray a little to see if it is thinned down enough to where it sprays smooth through either your 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4 tip which im assuming is what your paint gun will have. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask, no such thing as a bad question here my friend. We are all here to help eachother out.

@@domenicatocto7153 well I really appreciate that Domenica :) very unique name by the way! Love it!

@@mastirmynd unfortunately too late...it will need to be sanded as much as possible, throw another coat of paint just to hide the cloudy if any is left and then clear it.

@@dogbone17jackson31 definitely. Its happened to where I havent been able to figure out whats wrong with it and its new. Perhaps manufacturas wrong but yes I've had bad new ones before.

@@r0de0man1 you're very welcome 🙏

@@RennyRacer really appreciate that! Thank you!

@@bobloblaw4576 you're very welcome 🙏

So I removed the harness and 3 screws but the actuator won’t pull straight out. Do you know why?

@@bobloblaw4576 try wiggling it side to side and up and down. It shouldn't take too much effort.

Thanks for the fast response. Man, I had to dive head first under the dash and wrestle to complete this repair. You got skills and made it look so easy. Liked and subscribed!!

@@bobloblaw4576 haha not skills, just patience lol. Yea it's quite a pain being under the dash thats for sure! Thank you for your kind feedback! 🙏

@@robassable heeey that's awesome! Never tried it with the metal sleeve back on lol and yes definately always has to happen at the worse time!! Couldn't agree more!

@@wenzdaze4018 yes they will. But just incase you don't feel like going through all that wait and being without your car, here is the fix. But yes definately if you can wait it be best to just let them do it. Thanks for the feedback brother 🙏

At least it already has a evaporator

@@austinhernandez2716 that right there is the problem. Chances are they only sell them together and won't just sell you the single fan and will need to buy the fan assembly (both fans). They should both be running if you have your AC on

@@AndyHernandezLopez what happens if you disconnect the 2 small wires of the solenoid and only leave the thick cable from battery to solenoid and thick cable from solenoid to battery. Tell me what happens there

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations it wont crank at all

also my solenoid is a different style from the one in this video it only has 2 thick wires and one thin wire i think its the ignition trigger cable. i have tried to connect it again and it still keeps cranking. could it have anything to do with the ignition at all?

@@AndyHernandezLopez if the moment you connect the thin wire which would be your solenoid signal wire to energize the solenoid, then that wire must have power. I would then check into the ignition switch to see if it's no faulty and staying on at all times even in the off position.

@@natsarim87 unfortunately since it's dry already, you can't use this method, you will have to sand the whole car with 400-600 grit and knock it down as much as possible to get close to the base coat and get rid of that layer of compromised clear coat and then spray a coat of your black and then clear again. But try to get yourself some filters for your air.

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations thanks :)

@@natsarim87 you're welcome...I wish I had an easier solution but unfortunately there isnt...but if you have any further questions feel free to ask at anytime.

@@brianyazzie9945 thank you very much!

@@johnnyrodriguez2493 so being a GM it will have one but it will be located on top of the starter itself. This is on a Ford which on a Ford they liked putting these external solenoids. Let me know if this didn't help so I can continue to try to assist you

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations thanks. I will give it a try and will let you know.

@@b323ss2 when I would let off, I had to continuously keep on the gas for the backfire not to be present

@@KB19910 check your spark plugs, if they are all black and fowled out replace them. Also if you have a clear fuel filter, check to see if you are getting fuel to the carb when this happens

send me a photo so i can see what you mean and i will advise how to remove it

​@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations I appreciate the willingness to help, and I would love to, but I'm not sure how to send you a photo. I don't see an email address in your channel description, and if I post a link in the CZcams comment it'll get deleted

@@_Stormfather send me a photo through my Facebook Eddie's Customs and Restorations

Let me look up another one for you but what year is your car exactly? I updated all the links on my description. i hope this helps you. Sorry for the delay in response

Hmm thats very odd. Try disconnecting the switch ONLY and see if the light turns off

It would yes but if you are wanting to do body work to fill in scratches you will need a high build primer for that because epoxy is not meant to fill in voids.

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations Thank you Sir! My main concern has been adhesion to the plastic.

@@nopriors oh well for that I would recommend using bulldog adhesion promoter. That is specifically formulated for plastic bumpers and other plastic panels

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations Thank you I'll find it !

The purple wire goes to your small post as the "s" for start wire. That is the one that commands the solenoid to actuate so your car can crank. What type of distributor do you currently have? HEI? or do you have an external coil with a (+) and (-) on top?

External coil Mallory Unitite Distributor

I’ve been told I can drop the yellow wire?

@@chadpickett6059 yes. The yellow wire is the one that gives the coil 12v even while cranking for some vehicle that require a little more Juice while cranking. Leave it disconnected and just put the purple wire and see if your car starts.

You're very welcome 🙏

i'm very sorry but if the flywheel teeth count match up it will work.

Man I sure am glad this helped someone..I just wish it would have helped you before you threw parts at it...

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations Thanks, I did try to find someone else having the same problem but.. Wasn't that a strange problem? never crossed my mind the belt was too loose cause the motor seemed like it was dying!? Its as if the motor needed to sense a load for it to run at max torque.

@@eer88 my thoughts exactly! It was the weirdest thing!! But after thinking about it more it made sense because the reason it slows down is because the pump itself isn't rotating since the belt is slipping. The part that actually creates the noise is actually the pump not the electric motor.

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations I can see that angle, good call. Its always the simplest thing that throws us off. Glad to know there's always someone else out there that deals with a same head scratcher.

@@eer88 it sure is!! Thank you very much for your feedback, I really means a lot to us creators when we know we helped someone in some way

Must have been nerve wrecking! I know the feeling all too well! Glad we could help!

You're very welcome 🙏

you're very welcome!! Glad I could help!

Oh I hear you on that one lol

you're very welcome. You are definately right, sometimes this issues can appear like it is a bigger problem than what it really is

Sweet!! Best of luck man!

The back vents a full system just as the front ones do. Should be located somewhere by the back hatch behind one of the panels. More than likely on passenger side. I wish I had another video to share to demonstrate

Regular spray can stuff is no good. But if you did the brown rusty metal primer that is sold in quarts at the home goods stores like home depot, those work good. Oil based rustoleum works awesome over metal but only if you plan to use rustoleum products over that primer. Oil based ofcourse, not aerosol can stuff.

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations Says ok over clean metal on the can, I prepped the bare metal with Ospho, seems like the repairs I did are solid, with only some initial shrinking over four or five days depending on ambient temperature I usually sand after 3-4days. Plan is to sand 400 wet after all minor repairs are done then seal the entire car before paint with epoxy sealer. The Black Automotive Primer they sell is like $7.00 a can if you buy in bulk, and works like a guide coat because you can see your highs and low spots during sanding with 180 open cut or other finer grits. Believe their black spray can primer has some solvents in it as it attacked previous repair work that appears to have been done with lacquer based primers there was minor wrinkling where I had sanded through the top coat into repair work. Only draw back is the amount of cans I’ve used about 10 cans on 6 panels, convince wise it’s ok don’t need to get any spray equipment out to start your work, and I have a neighbor that seems to take notice of everything I do on the upper part of the driveway, thankfully I have room to work where she cannot see me working on my cars in the back behind a fence. Still have three more body panels to go, including a air dam that has damage. I’ve use RustOleum oil based paint on primed metal, and bare metal as you say, and had really good results on suspension components… Thanks for your insight now need to find someone that will let me use their spray booth for couple days …

It can but you won't ever get all the metal shavings out that settled at the bottom.

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations I figured something will be left behind. I'll have to go this way. Thanks for the video. Cheers

@@JR-jd3dw best of luck! Thank you

Yes should be the same part and part number

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations thank you so much!!!!

Yea I quite the chore but very doable by anyone.

A plunger would work very good yes

Sorry for the late response but I hope you just went ahead and tried it. The plunger would create the same concept

These radios have issues at times, disconnect negative battery cable for 10 seconds then reconnect see if that resets everything and then comment back with your findings please.

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations Ok thanks I'll try that! As for the A/C and heat issue what do you think?

The AC does seem to sound like a dead or stuck blend door or blend door actuator.@@pmxevious

@@EddiesCustomsandRestorations Ok thanks I'll order the door and check out the videos on how to get in there to replace it

That is more related to your blend door. it may be stuck on the heater setting. Check other videos on youtube in reference to the blend doors for your camaro. Hope this helps you out.

If you use the same box controller then yes you should be able to but you would need to match the wires that go from the box to the light.

you are very welcome, if you have any further questions feel free to drop a comment and i will do my best to get back to you on a timely manner. Best of luck on your 63!

Well thats good news! Glad you made it happen and i appreciate your comment. Thank you for sharing!