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There may be a way to connect a touchpad to the USB port of the Xbox adaptive controller. It's also theoretically possible to connect a touchpad to a Brook Wireless Fighting board but I haven't tried it. The Brook WFB is what I've used so far to build my own custom controllers.

Glad you found it helpful! I haven't found a good joystick topper for quads. I do have some ideas on making some. I have the materials but haven't had a chance to try it yet. Are you thinking a goalpost topper similar to what electric wheelchairs have?

@@enabled5714 Yes! Goalpost type topper. Like Warfighter Engaged's JOYSTIX-L "hand rest"

I'm happy you find it helpful!

The testing is at the very end of this video. I don't show any gaming though, I'm hoping to share a few videos of actually gaming with the controllers in the near future.

Hi, you can send me an email through CZcams if you would like

Hi, I don't know much about the PlayStation access controller but if it uses the standard 3.5mm format for analog sticks then theoretically yes, this will work.

@enabled5714 hi ya Thanks for the reply yes they use the 3.5mm jack 4 pin

It isn't possible to connect a common arcade joystick to the analog ports, but the Brook fighting boards have other ports for the DPad for exactly what you want to do. Those ports will work with a common arcade joystick and you won't need to use the analog ports.

@@enabled5714 actually what I want to replicate is the Hitbox Crossup behavior, because Tekken allows you to use simultaneously both the D-Pad and the Left Analog stick at the same time, along the SOCD Cleaner for simultaneous inputs you can shortcut stuff, but there is no current Analog to switch buttons converter on the market and only the Hitbox Crossup offers this feature, but I'm no electrical engineer so I don't know how difficult is to provide/create such an interface. In my mind, my logic says that this X/Y conectors that use a single pin use a 0-1 range meaning the potentiometer you mention provides values in those ranges, and an interface to emulate this should send and max/min value depending if a button is pressed (e.g. left or right) to the Brook pin Btw thanks for your fast response! ah... the PS4+Audio Brook PCB is the one that supports DPad and both Analog Sticks

@@jccfrancis I'm no hitbox/crossup expert but I did look them up to try and understand what the crossup does. I know they advertise the stick as analog but it doesn't make sense for a standard arcade joystick to be used as analog. From my understanding, the crossup has a joystick that does the same thing as the D-Pad buttons on a hitbox so essentially you have two devices that perform the same function. You can do this with the Brook board if you wire a button and a joystick into the same terminal on the board. Take a look at 26:12 of this video: czcams.com/video/djrhOrVDydg/video.html where I show how to make a joystick and buttons do the same thing. Not sure if this is the same thing you are trying to do.

Yes you can, you will need 2 analog joysticks connected as shown in this video and 1 regular arcade joystick for the DPad.

@@enabled5714 awesome!! Thank you!!

Thanks @gastongaston , Yes, I was able to charge the battery via the usb cable. You could have a bad connection where the battery connects to the board, or maybe a bad battery?

I don't think so, I have 2 batteries that I bought with this kit + 1 original PS3 battery (I disassembled an original joystick to test this). When connecting the battery, the board only discharges it until it reaches zero but never charges again. In turn, all these batteries, if I connect them to the PS3 joystick, charge normally without problems. Do you play some combination of keys or do you leave the stick in some kind of "charging mode" so that it charges its batteries?@@enabled5714

I don't know enough about mame to provide a definitive answer, but my uneducated answer is no, this joystick will not work in the manner you want to use it. This joystick does not/cannot connect via USB without help from an Arduino or something similar. You might take a look at the Ultrastik 360 which does connect via USB and can be programmed to operate in different configurations using the mapping software provided by Ultimarc. It's more expensive, but may be the closest out of the box solution to what you are trying to do.

@@enabled5714 brilliant thanks very much i will look into the ultrastik 360

You need a zero delay usb encoder board and yeah you can use that on pc

Try installing both a left and right stick and see if that fixes it. For some reason, connecting only one stick causes the other stick to also move erroneously. If it were me, I would connect two potentiometers to the side I didn't want to use and leave them out of sight.

I measured one of the potentiometers and it looks like they are 5K.

I checked the receipts and the last time I bought these joysticks was Dec 18, 2022 and they were $8.64. Looks like the prices went up.

Glad to hear you found it helpful!

That's a great idea, thanks for sharing!

Yes, it definitely could be used for pad-hacking. I have done some pad hacking on simple controllers but haven't tried pad hacking a controller with analog joysticks yet. It is on the list though and I will share when the time comes.

@@enabled5714 Awesome, that's great news! Just got some for the holidays so re-watching the video. Thank you very much for the schooling!

The Ultrasik 360 joysticks are mini USB so the splitter has to plug into those. A USB C would work though if you found a way to adapt it.

@@enabled5714 ohhhhh OK 👍, noo question sorry.

Thank you for the suggestions! I have an Arduino microcontroller but I haven't done anything with it yet. One of these days I plan to experiment with it and learn how to use it. I'm not very good at programming which is a big setback for me, but I am interested in learning that skill at least good enough to do simple things.

Hi, thanks for the positive feedback! I think the hall effect design has a similar accuracy as a potentiometer design when they are both new and also assuming that they are equal quality. However, I agree with your comment that over time the potentiometer design is more prone to drift than the hall effect design. The reason is the potentiometers wear out with use whereas the hall effect designs have fewer parts to wear out so they last longer. The downside to the hall effect sensors is the cost and they require power to operate them. In order for me to use the hall effect design with the Brook Wireless Fighting board I had to make some modifications which caused some control issues in the beginning. With a few adjustments the joysticks worked great for gaming. They took some getting used to, but with practice I'd say they are just as precise as a regular thumbstick.

​@@enabled5714thank you for the info. Did you end up going with the ultramarc 360 for both sticks? Did you try other brands? What about other boards besides the brookes board? I believe sj@jx might also make one.

@@miguelr246 For the first build I went with the Ultramarc 360 for both sticks mainly because I couldn't find an alternative that had the same mounting style. Since then, I have experimented with the SJ@JX joysticks, you can find a short review of those here: czcams.com/video/gTxStAB1YEU/video.html and a joystick build I made for the XBox Adaptive controller using SJ@JX here: czcams.com/video/z1iX98gY0iQ/video.html I haven't put a lot of play time on the SJ@JX joysticks so I don't know yet how well they work long term. For what I've done connecting them to a PC, they seem to work ok. As far as other boards besides the Brook Boards, I have connected the Ultrastiks directly to a PC and they work fine. The only other thing I have used is an XBox Adaptive Controller, and I have hacked controllers to work on older gaming systems. I like the Brook Wireless Fighting board because it is fairly universal and it works very well. I'm open to other boards though if you have any ideas.

Hi! I don't have my controller set up yet (slowly working on it) so I haven't played any games with this joystick. However, I was able to fix the joystick sticking by removing the plate and loosening the 4 screws underneath. I have played with these sticks doing bench testing on other things and they seem to respond ok. I'm curious how long they will last.

@@enabled5714 thank you for the reply! I'm fine with being a guinea pig lol. i should have the stick in a few weeks and will put it in a test enclosure and share my findings with you! What you are doing is really great.

@@letsgobubblegum Good deal! Yes, please share your thoughts as you put some time on it and I will do the same. If it doesn't work out, at least it wasn't crazy expensive.

Not all of the Brook boards have analog capability. So no, if the board you are looking at doesn't have the RY and RX pins then it isn't possible to use it with analog joysticks.

Hi @haryeti, I have never tried it so try at your own risk, but I think it will work fine using 12V.

@@enabled5714 I tried it out last night, 12v gave a lot more deadzone at the upper limits of the movement range.

@@haryeti Interesting, thanks for the feedback

Hi, for up, down, left, and right as used on the directional pad, you want to use a regular arcade joystick (see link below for an example) rather than an analog joystick. The Brook WFB has terminals to connect up, down, left and right in the same terminal block as the other buttons such as X, O, Triangle and square. www.amazon.com/Joystick-Adjustable-Competition-Classic-Cabinet/dp/B0824P1CDS/ref=sr_1_20?crid=259OVL8MKIBJP&keywords=arcade+joystick&qid=1689121526&sprefix=arcade+joystick%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-20

Hi! I wouldn't say one is any easier to control or precise than the other as they are the exact same design other than the handle. It really depends on how you plan to use it. The larger handle joystick has the button and twist feature which is pretty cool, but if you don't have good finger dexterity then those features won't be very useful. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

@@enabled5714 Great! Thank you for your fast reply!

Thanks for watching, happy to hear you found the video helpful! To answer your initial question, yes, I also had some trouble installing the firmware but like you, found the solution on the Ultimarc website. Most of the time it is straightforward and installs on the first try, but once in a while there is a hiccup. Glad you got it working

Hi @snfullif, I can probably create a wiring diagram and throw it in the next video I make about this topic.

@@enabled5714 Thanks!

Hi! Unfortunately, the PS3/PS4 Fighting Board Plus doesn't have analog joystick capability. The PS4+ Audio Fighting Board does accommodate analog joysticks and has the same row of pins as the Wireless Fighting Board. I may be able to put something together with the zero delay board and show a video. That would only work on a PC though.

Hi @crow aguilera , I am working on a few devices for the Xbox adapter controller. It is taking me a while to get them posted but keep an eye out. Is there something specific you would like to use with the Xbox controller?

@@enabled5714 thanks for replying back I just want to be able to built a joystick that works with the Adaptive controller. thank you for posting your videos there's not a lot of information on how to help disabled gamers.

Very cool, I will have to look into the Quasimodo and see if I can learn something from it. Glad you found the video useful!

I'm not familiar with the Gulikit Joystick, but after a quick Google search I'm guessing they use Hall Effect Sensors. My only experience with hall effect sensor joystick is the UltraStik 360 which will work with the Brook board but it requires a few extra modifications. The Gulikit might work, but I can't say for certain without trying them. Maybe someone else will see this and provide some more info.

Really glad you decided to go for it! I took one of those SJ@JX joysticks apart to see if I could find the problem and all you need to do is remove the top plate, loosen the 4 screws underneath the plate a little and it is fixed! Don't be afraid to reach out if you run into problems.

Glad to hear it! I do this in my spare time so sometimes it takes me a while to post videos. However, if you want some specific information about something, I will be happy to help where I can. Also, when you get your controller put together feel free to post it on my Facebook page in the description, I'd love to see it!

Glad it was helpful! I considered making a video going over the entire Brook board by itself but didn't know if anyone would be interested in it. I can do that if you would find it helpful.

Yep, I took one apart to see if I could figure out the problem and exactly what you said, loosen the screws a little and it works great!

@Enabled glad i could help I bought 2 of them to mak a theatrhythm controller for nintendo switch works good

You would say that lol

I agree, they are pretty light (which I actually prefer but that's personal preference). I am also searching for stronger tension springs so if you find some, let me know! I can tell you the OEM wire diameter is .015", the loop to loop length is .515", the coil OD is .135" and the spring rate is approximately 4-4.5 lbs/in

@@enabled5714 this helps, thanks

Any luck finding higher tension springs?

These actually sell as a kit on Amazon that does include the encoder that accepts the existing connectors.

If I were doing it again, I would make an adapter cable that goes from the Brook board to the connector that comes with the SJ@JX. That way you could keep the connector intact and unplug it anytime.

Glad you found it helpful!

Thanks for watching! I do this in my spare time so sometimes it takes a while to post videos but it's still on my list.

Thank you!

Thank you so much!