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Its hard to say how long its been around as its something I worked out by myself. However I would say Im far from the the first to use these sorts of techniques Im sure.

Its one made for me about 25 or more years ago by Rod Drabsch in Australia. He is no longer in that business sorry. You can buy them from Wray Schelin of Pro Shaper in the US and he ships worldwide. Google that name and you will find him.

The joys of getting old is always learning new tricks and techinques. Its what keeps me in the game myself.

Replaced it with a new cowl and plenum in begining of year. Have a look over on Streetneat lLtd on facebook.

Hemi the workshop cat. He loves my work too - except when I start making too much noise lol...

Hhaha Thats Hemi. He is the new workshop cat we rescued right here when he wandered in as a wee tiny kitten about 6 weeks old late January this year. The video also starts with him on his bed.

I normally have the door skin off the door itself so makes it a lot easier of course. To be fair most of the H series doors I have worked on dont have the intrusion bar.

The idea of drilling from the outside and on top is to be sure its centred in the middle of the roof. The roof braces inside are not a good datum point as they are off centre so i check from both sides of the roof to be sure I have missed braces AND its in centre from the outside.. The other reason is drilling downwards is a lot easier than trying to drill upwards! No bits of hot metal falling on me!

Glad it was helpful!

Yep -we all all start somewhere and this was one of my first videos. I have since changed equipment.

Hhaha yes Vegemite is an acquired taste- best not put on your toast like axle grease!

Most automotive panel beating suppliers will have them.

Any decent heat source should, work just the finite control will be the issue . I have never tried it with such a torch so wouldn't like to guess the outcome

I use a fine tooth steel file. Just be sure when ordering you specify its for steel not body filler.

Primer and paint makes us the tradesmen we aint. Thats the point. First it has to be repaired and the panel surface brought back to where it needs to be without relying on bog, hi fill primers and a lot of extra material that can and will shrink back later in the cars life to reveal whats really underneath.

there is no point cave and pave and send it on down the road. it will be just fine. by the time it does shrink the customer would have looked at it so many times and wont even notice the shrinking.

I do a photo sequence of my work you can follow over on Streetneat Ltd facebook page. Videos take a lot longer and cut heavily into work time.

sorry for the delayed reply - CZcams wont let me see comments and I just worked out they hide them for review - but only some comments... go figure! Yes, absolutely and I have done the same myself.

@@streetneat no worries thanks mate

Thanks Rick. Yes you are right. I normally kill the music before filming and forgot to this time. I was taking photos then realised I was taking a video so started talking explaining what the work was hahaha.

Put some compressed air in the overflow pipe to inflate the tank to push the dents out.

What did you use to plug holes?

Its a slow and steady process to bring down the last of the pregnant area and not take it too far so that the door skin sucks inwards. The ruler was a great gauge to see the progress. I have been coming and going from this door over the last few days so as not to over work it. The disc is part of the work - the rest is old fashioned slapper and dolly work to push the steel around.

Yes I drill the spot welds with a spot weld drill and unpick them careful not to go right through to the metal underneath.

More great questions! Thanks Eddie. If no one asks no one learns! I will try to answer in order; I use a 3M purple clean and strip disc to remove the bog. I follow up with a power stripper drum wheel to give it that uniform brush finish. That's also the same material as the 3M clean and strip disc. As for quench with wet rag - well sometimes but I like to minimise that as it work hardens the steel quickly and makes it harder to bring down. The file slapper has wee teeth that shrinks a tiny bit and irons out the wrinkles. The shrinking disc irons out the fine wrinkles even further and flattens the panel down quickly. I use the traditional oxy torch heat shrinks to bring down the big creases and stubborn stuff to get basic shape and form closer quicker than go back to slap and shrink. Thanks for the questions and thanks for your continued support. I also use hammer ( slapper in this case) on dolly to flatten the dimples and bring up the lows.

@@streetneat thank you for clarifying all this for us. hopefully, i'll be better prepared in case i run into this type of severe damage. ciao.