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Michael Romer
United States
Registrace 5. 01. 2012
I started making OMC/Volvo Penta how-to videos because I'm tired of the bust out another thousand (BOAT) mentality. Boat mechanics will charge you an arm and leg for repairs you could complete yourself. Instead, let me help you take the guess work out of working on your OMC Cobra/Volvo Penta.
Video
Yamaha 115 HP - Another Fuel Leak Found!
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 6 měsíci
Holley Marine Carb is Destroyed!
zhlédnutí 243Před 6 měsíci
This is the most amount of garbage I’ve ever seen in a carburetor before keep in mind I had just rebuilt it.
Holley Marine Carb Filled with Garbage!
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed 6 měsíci
The amount of garbage that came out of this carburetors is unbelievable!
OMC Cobra & Volvo Penta - New Fuel Pump is Misaligned!
zhlédnutí 648Před 6 měsíci
Did you just buy a new fuel pump and the original fuel lines won't line up? Did you try to spin the housing around only to find out it won't screw back together because there aren't threads? Check out this video and I got over a great fix to resolve this issue!
Destroyed a Marine Holley Carburetor in Minutes!
zhlédnutí 459Před 6 měsíci
I destroyed a newly completed carb. rebuild in a matter of minutes!! Check you water separator my friends!
Yamaha Outboard Gear Lube Change! Amsoil Marine 75w-90
zhlédnutí 539Před 6 měsíci
Marine Carburetor Holley 4150 Rebuild Coming Soon!
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 7 měsíci
Holley 4150 Carburetor Float Installed Wrong!!!
zhlédnutí 2,9KPřed 7 měsíci
OMC Cobra Volvo Penta - Fuel Line Failure!
zhlédnutí 2,7KPřed 7 měsíci
Holley Carburetor - Hourglass Shaped Center Screws!
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed 8 měsíci
OMC Cobra & Volvo Penta - Replacement Fuel Pump Won't Line Up - Part 1
zhlédnutí 419Před 8 měsíci
This is a common problem for everyone needing to replace their fuel pump. On my last 5.8, I ended up just using flexible fuel lines. For others, they bend new metal fuel lines. I'm working on a solution for this, stay tuned for part two,
Yamaha Outboard - Oil tank reservoir hack!
zhlédnutí 468Před 8 měsíci
Yamaha outboard - How does this sound to the experts out there?
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed 8 měsíci
Yamaha outboard, starter failure! #yamahaoutboards
zhlédnutí 201Před 8 měsíci
Yamaha outboard trim tilt seals must be toast!
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 8 měsíci
Long shot but part number by chance
I’d be replacing the impellers upper and lower, and water pump. Sand will destroy every moving part in the cooling system.
I see a new means of mining for gold while having fun 1
How to add fluid to this pump?
Pretty " BORING". too much talking. Get to the point. You don't need a cliber tool . All you have to do is match up the " Orings...! Put FEELING to the video's 😅
Hi, Thanks for video. In the OMC stern drive 1986 to 1998 service manual they recommande SAE30 oil. Also says that OMC does not recommand use of multi visosity oil. But in my marine store they seel me 10w-30, you use 10w-30 and many place on internet recommand 10w-30 do you know if its really important ?
Thank you brother and God bless you
Michael , on my Alpha 2 I need 2 inches total thickness in my transom. How do I figure my plywood, epoxy as well as fiberglass so o come out to exactly 2 inches? Thank you
Hey Bill, I’m an assistant to Michael. He is prioritizing replies to subscribers. Please consider hitting that subscribe button so he can see your question.
I am subscribed!!!
Plan for 1/8 for each layer that connects to a piece of marine plywood. You will need to have 1 - 3/4, 1 - 1/2 sheets of marine plywood. That will give you 1.25 inches. Then add 1/8 for the epoxy/polyester resin in between the plywood. The outer shell of your boat will typically be 1/4. Depending how much peanut butter you mix up, you will be between 1.625 and 1.875 inches. This is fine because typically I recommend two layers of 1708 to cap everything you just installed. This includes tabbing and the hard outer shell that you see as the final presentation and that will get you right at 2 inches.
I love your attitude I can hear the love of Jesus in u , keep that joy cuz it’s beautiful ! It’s the key to life
Michael, I am about to Adhere my new marine grade plywood transom to the back of the boat. I am using 1708. Do I wrap the entire transom front and back with the 1708 and then epoxy it in or do I leave the back side raw and coat the raw wood with peanut butter and the back of the boat and then sandwich in place with the 2x4’s?
So far what I’ve found is using 1708 at the very end, to seal the transom in the boat; that is the most important step when the new transom is installed. I also found that when a transom does leak and have issues, it’s from people screwing into it. Consider, using epoxy anchors to hold transducers and sensors needed to be on the outside of the boat.
Michael, I am about to Adhere my new marine grade plywood transom to the back of the boat. I am using 1708. Do I wrap the entire transom front and back with the 1708 and then epoxy it in or do I leave the back side raw and coat the raw wood with peanut butter and the back of the boat and then sandwich in place with the 2x4’s?
Hello. Great video. I have a 1992 omc cobra 3.0 ford engine. I am having trouble where it clunks into drive kinda hard. And then it is really hard to shift back to N. Also I do not notice the ESA activating a lower idle when it shifts. Question is should it lower the idle when shifting into F and R? I am going to follow step by step on your videos to check it all out. Oh and also when it goes into drive sometimes it does not get into gear solid and will clunk clunk clunk till it locks in. I am guessing this is the shift arm adjustment issue or something. Any help would be great. I will get out with the multimeter and check the stuff in your videos to see if I can resolve it. Thank you.
I need to replace these tubes in my boat, they were split by the original installer. How do you remove them without damaging the exist hole?
professionally installed foam years ago. store cold at or near mid 70's, i live in florida so i dont expose the resins to the ambient air until its go time. also the mix is very important. a proper mix looks nearly all 1 shade of banana pudding...caramel swirls no good. that shows up later in the cured foam. when the blobbs have large bubbles 1/8" + and semi translucent thats a sign of a bad mix. use a drill with a paint mixer, then drop mixer into bucket with acetone to reuse. that same 15 seconds with a drill gives 100 x's the quality of mix. a tip to help the foam flow to nooks and crannies as specially for my fellow boaters near the equator. do it first thing in the morning before it gets hot. the chemical reaction creates heat, and the reaction is also sped up by heat so its self accelerating. the cooler you store the resin and the cooler the part being foamed the longer it will remain liquid allowing it time to move before the rise. so store cold, pore cold in the morning, then as it cures and the sun comes out it will get a nice heat cycle to cure. by lunch youll have a finished product as good as a million dollar boat. i have also mixed in a gallon zip lock bag for small batches, snip the corner off and its very clean way to dispense with no buckets to clean.
Hey Mike, I have a 1995 four win with a 5.0. Where do you find parts for the out drive? Thanks in advance
Why is foam used
Hi Michael, I am back on my boat project and about to put my 3 layers of Marine Grade plywood together just as you did for the transom. Two 3/4" pieces and one 1/4. My question is: Once bonded together would it be better to use 1708 to wrap it or 22oz toling fabric? A friend mentioned the tooling fabric becasue it lays smooth. I am a first timer with all of this and have the 1708 on hand but havent used it yet.
You’re a good man
Define soon?
Great video any idea what or where I can find the info if the wires have all been taken off without putting them right to the new cap? My engine seems to be exactly what you’re showing there.
What’s the part #for that kit and does it include the bearing?
Thanks for this video! I have a '92 OMC with a 4175 spread bore carb but the basics were the same and this helped me out a ton
Great video! Changed cable easy lined it up with tool. When I put it in reverse it goes in gear and I can’t turn the prop. All good. But when I put it in forward gear it doesn’t fully engage and I can still spin the prop with my hands. If I start it on the trailer and try to put it in to forward gear it sounds like it trying to go into gear but it doesn’t I checked the bell crank and the cable is pulling it all the way back and it can’t come up anymore.
So what's the point of a water pump.? Water pump and propeller? And will it cause flames out the exhaust?😢
I bought a boat in Cleveland and brought it home . They said they put a new shift cable on for Ford and reverse one from the handle to the motor went from the motor to the drive. Neither one work how do I fix that? And is there an exhaust flapper that goes on these things because we had to pull the motor and put into water jackets, not water jackets freeze plugs in the back of the four-cylinder and there wasn’t one in there but there was just a rod in my buddy says that in the cobra you don’t need to replace them but is this true? Please let me know.
Where did you get the pump?
Hey Mike, you've helped me a lot with your videos. I've installed the oil seal and gimbal bearing, but now we're struggling to get the engine aligned. The tool seems to be binding about halfway through the turn of the tool. Any suggestions?
wouldn't polyester resin have been a better choice? the styrene in the resin is what breaks down the chemical binders in the fiberglass. maybe im wrong, but while i was watching i kept saying why does the glass still look bone dry and instead of a homogenous mix, it resembles more of a vegetable soup
Thank you for sending me the link to this video. Super helpful!!!
You are welcome!
Michael I have a starter that not only stays engaged but keeps cranking once engines fires up. No grinding is heard but I can’t for the life of me find the electrical anomaly after testing the starter, replacing ignition switch, and solenoid…any ideas?? I’d like to get on the water
How do I know if I have the correct shift cable? What length should it be?
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts czcams.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/video.html
Michael, Im in the process of repairin an oil pan on a 5.0 penta, on a four winns horizon. Your videos have been very helpful and I thank you for making them. However white removing the lag bolts on the port side, both bolts broke off within the fiberglass. I was wondering if you had any info, or videos detailing the repair of the mount itself? As I need to replace the wooden mount, and the fiberglass now. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Im attempting to put mine back together. Do i have to put the boat in neutral foward or reverse ?
Hey, whats the part number for the alternator belt?
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts czcams.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/video.html
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Michael these videos are awesome! thanks for much for videos. I have a question and I feel its something that Can be an easy fix. I thought I had an issue with the shift cable. But after taking the lower unit off. Saw it was still shifting fine. Went to hand move the propeller when in forward and it locks, and in reverse it locks. Also in neutral it is free spinning. But when I grab the drive shaft to crank it will not move the prop. Would this be the issue? A dog shaft? It sounds kinda ugly when hand moving the drive shaft.
Could you explain what you mean when you said that you grab the driveshaft to crank it?
Quick tip, use a rubber band around the claws , it’ll keep them together while you spin the cone
Great advice! Thanks for subscribing!
Hey Mike I was hoping you could help me with my 93 4.3 cobra prestolite ignition
doesn't look like the upgraded detent can be used on the 7.5l King cobra. Am i wrong?
See if the part is available for your model
How-to Find Boat Parts czcams.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/video.html
@@michaelromer2016 thanks for the response. I've already checked all the different parts sites. Its just weird that OMC would make an upgrade to all their cobras but not the 7.5 king cobra. So i'll just stick with the OEM detent
I think they did that because the engineers were worried about the power your motor makes. Also have to pulled yours out to compare it against the detent in the video. I imagine if you ever get to take yours apart you could modify it by hand with a file. Even putting a slight radius on it would do wonders!
Hey I bought one of those concrete blades to take down any big areas of grinding and let me tell ya that works great it does cut a lot fast so you have to be careful but curious what you think of that
Thanks for the tip!
@@michaelromer2016 I ended up using the flap discs like you did the concrete disc was just to heavy to wield but could definitely have a use somewhere I’d imagine !
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for subscribing!
Cutting torch tip cleaners work well for cleaning the jets
Great point!
This boat-renovation series is the most detailed and thorough of the dozens I've found on CZcams, and you're to be commended for that. In addition, you are one of the only people to use EPOXY resin for all your laminating. Unfortunately, you don't talk much about that choice and why it's so very important in rebuilds like this. As you undoubtedly know, you're essentially GLUING new wooden components (stringers, transom, etc.) onto the boat's existing, cured polyester-laminated hull. In other words, the attaching new to old involves secondary bonds that are structural, not chemical. So, the "glue" (resin) has to be really strong. Though it's fine for building a new boat in a female mold, polyester resin is weak glue, whereas epoxy resin is very strong glue. That's fundamentally why epoxy is FAR superior for renovation projects like yours. Followers who are seriously considering such rebuilds don't need to take my words for this. Information on the comparative bond strengths of the two types of resin abound on the internet. But one of the very best sites (and the very best epoxy components) can be found via the homepage of the WEST System (originally the Gougeon Brothers). These people pioneered the use of epoxy in boat building and repairing, and they offer not just products but lots of practical , thoroughly proven usage advice. Hope this helps. Chris (in Maine)
I thought the fitting came with two rubber o-rings too?
Just got my first outboard and in the same situation. Also only owned inboards. So thanks.
Glad I could help!
Amazing videos, this video is what I'm currently doing now. FWIW You can use a plunge router also.
Great tip!
I need to replace my engine coupler. What are the torque specs for it?
Very helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Great job, I have to do this in a few days.
Good luck!
Great video very helpful thanks
Very welcome!