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383 green from Rapco. It is the CARC substitute stuff. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching. Glad it helped.

Thanks for watching. I added the belts to the description. Drivers alternator-Gates 7575, Passenger alternator-Gates 7483, Power Steering-Gates 7448. As I mentioned several times in the video. These are what fit my truck. Your truck might need a size smaller or bigger depending on pulley wear.

There are times a 12 volt conversion is tempting. But, I sure like the 24 volt starter motor. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching. Enjoy your trip.

Clockwise 1/4 turn adds fuel the amount the Banks manual says is needed.

@@22Platypus It was already warmed up. But, in my experience that is how all mechanical IP 6.2 or 6.5 engines start. Thanks for watching.

@@electrolytes4350 No, this only works on vehicles that have the bumper attached directly to the frame. Almost all new vehicles have bumper covers that will deform since they are not attached to anything but plastic. However, if the bumper cover is removed and the frame attached bumper is exposed. Then, yes it will work. Thanks for watching.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 so u can't lift it from the bumper on a new car?

@timsteachablemoments1786 because there usually attached to the subframe some people call them crash bars I don't ever work on old cars but I know the bumper on them is usually metal and not plastic

@@electrolytes4350 Newer trucks maybe. Cars and small SUV’s in the last 15 years normally have plastic running under the front of the car to the radiator. There just is no safe place to pick them up with the plastic in the way. Your individual vehicle might be able to be lifted with them. That is your call.

While the M1010 had factory A/C. It also had unique alternators compared to the other CUCV trucks and nothing on that system will transfer over to the other CUCV models. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching.

Thanks for watching. To swap over to 12 volts will include lights, battery, starter and the charging system. I will do a video about wiring up an alternator with a relay so it will work in an old generator vehicle.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 Ok thanks 👍

@@timsteachablemoments1786 you know if I could figure out why the 6 volt system stopped charging I'd just keep that. I'm just not sure what to do.

PMCS and M60 battery checks. Add in the grease gun and I might have nightmares tonight. Thanks for watching.

That first crack really hurt. Now I just live with it. Thanks for watching.

My new hoses are 60 inches. My originals are 52 inches. My cooler is mounted with both ports on the bottom with the cooler on the drivers side in front of the radiator.

My new hoses are 60 inches. My originals are 52 inches. My cooler is mounted with both ports on the bottom with the cooler on the drivers side in front of the radiator.

Thank you for watching.

Thanks for the tip. Thank you for watching.

Thank you for watching.

Here is my video about wiring out the other controllers: czcams.com/video/6wDj_yUQ9EE/video.htmlsi=xnaYgKtVSjlArQSJ

Yes they do. It is the nature of diesel and V belts.

​@@timsteachablemoments1786 I haven't had the NAPA premiums jumo off but i had some cheap O'Reilly's belts come off and i had to drive back without alternators after i untangled them and luckily they didn't hit my new original type radiator that was nearly 600 dollars had replaced water pump and then the radiator because it was seeping and it had a quick repair done at one time that finally started to go

My favorite cologne too. “Diesel Number 2.” Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching.

Commercial Utility Cargo Vehicle seems to be the answer most people think it means. Civilian Utilization Contract Vehicle also gets mention as what it stands for. I will research and do a video about it in the coming months.

Thank you for watching.

There should be a brown or tan wire with a black cap on the R pin. Exact same black cap as is used for the fuel gauge sender at the tank. It is part of the STE/ICE test set up that connects to the cannon plug under your dash. Engine RPM is the purpose. If you buy a Dakota Dgital tach adaptor, plug it into the R pin and then plug a tachometer to the Dakota Digital box. You will have a working tachometer.

A fast search showed several brands available. Including GM. Oil psi is almost never a problem with the 6.? Unless cam, crank or rod bearings have been run dry. When you pull the pan, pull a main bearing or rod bearing cap to see how the bearings look. If copper is showing, figure on all new bearings.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 will that oil pan drop easy or do i have to remove crossmember

@@alshaw9420 It will drop in the stock location.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 good looks tight thanks

Something seems off with your set up. Yes, the M1008 is supposed to be the same as the M1009. The M1010 ambulance is the only one with different alternator set ups.

It seems I can’t put links in the comments. Steelsoldiers.com or jatonkam35s.com bot have them to download for free. Portrayal Press will sell you paper copies. As will lots of people on eBay.

Figure 3-4 minutes of combined cranking time to get fuel at the injectors. I count to 20, stop, use my watch to measure 2 minutes and then repeat.

Thank you for the tip. Thanks for watching.

To keep the metal line from cracking.

I don’t see that cold here so thanks for the advice and thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching.

M54 2.5 liter

@@timsteachablemoments1786 Is the M54 engine the best on the E39??

I would prefer the V8. But, the Touring with the V8, 540, only came with an automatic. I like a manual.

Thank you for watching. My 4 foot level was between the lines on the concrete and on the spacers. But, not perfectly centered. If your camber is the same side to side front and back. Your tire wear shouldn’t be as bad as mine. Your car is lighter. Mine had a front wheel really far out compared to the other. Since I did the alignment and switched to all season tires. I have done another 11,000 miles of highway and spirited driving. Less than 1 mm of tire wear on any part of any tire on the car. Plus I can drive in the winter. I have Michelin all seasons on the Porsche. Continental all seasons on the Miata. No wear. No more summer tires for me on the street unless I win the lottery.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 Thanks for the reply. I’m going to get either the SmartCamber Kit, or possibly the QuickTrick Gen 5 complete kit, & start doing my own alignments. That way I have no one to blame other than myself if it’s screwed up. Currently, after a recent Hunter Engineering (about a 20 year old machine) alignment at a local tire shop, the camber doesn’t look correct, or measure correctly, using a Joes Racing magnetic caster/camber gauge. I believe that either the Hunter machine was out of calibration, or the mechanic didn’t set it up properly, which resulted in a 1/2 to 1 full degree difference, left to right. Thanks again.

The Hunter machines can be very accurate. I spent a total of 10 or 12 days going through all of their alignment training years ago. However, alignments are very much tech dependent as you suggested. I am totally satisfied with the Smart String and Smart Camber set ups. I would recommend them to anyone. Once you start doing home alignments, get a helper to see if things change and how much when you sit in the drivers seat. My Miata will change camber almost a full degree with me in the drivers seat from the seat empty. Huge difference.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 That's great advice, much appreciated!!

@@timsteachablemoments1786 Did you contact Smart Racing Products before or after you’re purchase? I have tried email, voice mail and probably 10 phone calls over the last 3 days and I’m not getting a response. It makes me wonder if they are going out of business.

I will add that to my list of videos to make. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching. Glad it helped too.

It really is loud enough to hear from the bumper. Before I moved the microphone it was over the grill. You should also see a spark if you look close and the light is low.

@@timsteachablemoments1786Wow! Thank you so much for responding. I’ve been trying to figure out why mine is so hard to start. I have to crank for 1 to 2 minutes for it to fire up if it’s been sitting for longer than a day. Subscribed!

@@22Platypus What fuel filter do you have? If you still have the stock Chevy/Fram you could have a leak in the base that is common on them. Thanks for subscribing.

@@timsteachablemoments1786 You are probably my right. I had issues with my injection pump a few years ago and replaced the fuel filter housing with a new, but same style rectangle one at the same time. I just ordered a new (spin on) one. Will report back soon. Thanks!

@@timsteachablemoments1786Not saying this to throw it in your face, just thought you’d like to know. I put a new fuel filter setup on and it made no difference. Started messing with the solenoid again and noticed the click had gotten even quieter. Took it out and noticed the plunger was quite stiff. Worked it back and forth and it got better, but still a bit crunchy. Then I realized I had noticed that the engine would run for about a second after I turned off the key and it all made sense. Ordered a new one and it seems to be fixed. Like I said, super appreciate you replying to me (multiple times, at that), so thought I’d report back. Thanks!