I have had a few CUCVs, and the 12/24 volt charging system is usually the biggest issue with them. It’s probably the reason why I get them so cheap also 😂. The second issue is V-belts. The 100 amp alternator likes to eat them. I just recently started using green 1/2” belts, and with great success so far.
They are hooked in series on the trucks and M1009 vehicles. I haven’t touched a M1010 ambulance in over 12 years and forget what is different about them. But, they are different.
Back battery positive to the firewall Buss bar. Back battery negative to the front battery positive and the front battery negative to the frame ground. The 12 volts for the truck is pulled from the back battery negative.
I get you fully except you have a negative wire from alternator 2 to the negative bar on the fire wall, but on the alternator where the negative wire should go is where alternator 2 is seriesed to alternator 1. Should the wire to the negative bus connect on same post as the series wire
You are correct. I mis spoke. The isolated ground wire on the #2 alternator does not go to the negative buss bar on the firewall. It goes to the Engine Wiring Harness Block on the firewall over by the brake booster. It correlates to the battery wiring. Negative for #2 battery is used as positive for #1 battery. Sorry I named the wrong Buss bar. Thanks for pointing it out. I will be doing an alternator wiring video soon and will make sure it gets mentioned.
Does the m1008 gen 2 supposed to be isolated ground as well. On mines where the ground is connected to the engine, on gen2 a red wire goes to the block beside the glow plug solenoid. Note my truck was bought as is and I'm going through it bumper to bumper. So brothers like you and rocknus are my tutors among others. I believe my gen 2 set up is wrong
Something seems off with your set up. Yes, the M1008 is supposed to be the same as the M1009. The M1010 ambulance is the only one with different alternator set ups.
Question? Can you say the length of the iron that the horse shoe looking thing bolt on to tow the vehicle? Mines don't have both at the front and I made them to the length of the back ones. The front bumper does have those holes therefore I will have to cut them out. Just need the length to Tim them to size.
Those are called shackles and they hang from the shackle mounts. There always seems to be CUCV front bumpers with the grill guard and the shackle mounts for sale on Steel Soldiers or eBay. They are actually engineered very well behind the bumper. You don’t want one breaking if you are towing.
New fuel, new fuel filter, oil change and air filter. Then replace every rubber/neoprene hose dealing with the engine or transmission. Fuel tank to fuel line, middle of the truck fuel line to fuel line, fuel line to fuel lift pump, passenger side rear intake manifold to fuel filter, fuel filter to injection pump. Vacuum pump to IP mounted transmission vacuum valve, that valve to the metal line going over the rear of the engine and vacuum line to transmission mounted vacuum control. That is the long version. Short version is to pull the probably rotten hose off the lift pump. Put a new hose on it and drop the other end into a can of new diesel. After you have made sure the oil is there and just oil. Open the bleeder on the fuel filter and crank the engine over with the pink wire pulled to verify the lift pump works. Once you have fuel at the bleeder, close it up and crank 20 seconds with the pink wire hooked back up. Wait a few minutes for the starter to cool down and repeat. If you get to the 6th cycle and have no engine attempting to start and no smoke of any kind out of the exhaust. You might have some IP issues.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Hey Tim! Thanks for the reply. I was able to get it running this weekend. I did your short option and it was a great start. I belive the rings were stuck. I poured some ATF into every cylinder then turned it over by hand. After letting it sit for a few hours, I plugged the exhaust, cranked her up and it came back to life! Been driving it since and working the kinks out of it
On my blazer the drivers side alt belt, furthest away from batteries (alt/gen 1) snapped off so I had to get a replacement. I’m just concerned on the purpose of it and how far I can drive without that belt on. I don’t have the proper setup/tools to do it at this time so I’m going to my mechanic
The other belts will turn your water pump. Your power steering will feel a little catchy. Especially if you are on the brakes while turning. Otherwise, with the lights off and no heater fan, once started the engine will run a very long time with a fully charged battery.
There should be a brown or tan wire with a black cap on the R pin. Exact same black cap as is used for the fuel gauge sender at the tank. It is part of the STE/ICE test set up that connects to the cannon plug under your dash. Engine RPM is the purpose. If you buy a Dakota Dgital tach adaptor, plug it into the R pin and then plug a tachometer to the Dakota Digital box. You will have a working tachometer.
It seems I can’t put links in the comments. Steelsoldiers.com or jatonkam35s.com bot have them to download for free. Portrayal Press will sell you paper copies. As will lots of people on eBay.
Thank you. Thanks for watching.
I'm enjoying your "No B.S. Approach" to your videos..! You're a breath of "CZcams Fresh Air"..!! Carry On,Mister..!!
I have had a few CUCVs, and the 12/24 volt charging system is usually the biggest issue with them. It’s probably the reason why I get them so cheap also 😂. The second issue is V-belts. The 100 amp alternator likes to eat them. I just recently started using green 1/2” belts, and with great success so far.
I'd be invested in seeing a video on isolated ground alt rebuilds for the cucv.
I will add that to my list of videos to make. Thanks for watching.
Based off what you've explained, the alternators are not to be connected in series as shown on the wire diagram on steel soldiers
They are hooked in series on the trucks and M1009 vehicles. I haven’t touched a M1010 ambulance in over 12 years and forget what is different about them. But, they are different.
Back battery positive to the firewall Buss bar. Back battery negative to the front battery positive and the front battery negative to the frame ground. The 12 volts for the truck is pulled from the back battery negative.
The alternators are connected to their respective battery.
I get you fully except you have a negative wire from alternator 2 to the negative bar on the fire wall, but on the alternator where the negative wire should go is where alternator 2 is seriesed to alternator 1. Should the wire to the negative bus connect on same post as the series wire
You are correct. I mis spoke. The isolated ground wire on the #2 alternator does not go to the negative buss bar on the firewall. It goes to the Engine Wiring Harness Block on the firewall over by the brake booster. It correlates to the battery wiring. Negative for #2 battery is used as positive for #1 battery. Sorry I named the wrong Buss bar. Thanks for pointing it out. I will be doing an alternator wiring video soon and will make sure it gets mentioned.
Does the m1008 gen 2 supposed to be isolated ground as well. On mines where the ground is connected to the engine, on gen2 a red wire goes to the block beside the glow plug solenoid. Note my truck was bought as is and I'm going through it bumper to bumper. So brothers like you and rocknus are my tutors among others. I believe my gen 2 set up is wrong
Something seems off with your set up. Yes, the M1008 is supposed to be the same as the M1009. The M1010 ambulance is the only one with different alternator set ups.
Question? Can you say the length of the iron that the horse shoe looking thing bolt on to tow the vehicle? Mines don't have both at the front and I made them to the length of the back ones. The front bumper does have those holes therefore I will have to cut them out. Just need the length to Tim them to size.
Those are called shackles and they hang from the shackle mounts. There always seems to be CUCV front bumpers with the grill guard and the shackle mounts for sale on Steel Soldiers or eBay. They are actually engineered very well behind the bumper. You don’t want one breaking if you are towing.
Hey Tim! I just got my hands on a 1983 C20 with the 6.2 Liter. Its been sitting 4 years. It cranks but no start... where do i begin?
New fuel, new fuel filter, oil change and air filter. Then replace every rubber/neoprene hose dealing with the engine or transmission. Fuel tank to fuel line, middle of the truck fuel line to fuel line, fuel line to fuel lift pump, passenger side rear intake manifold to fuel filter, fuel filter to injection pump. Vacuum pump to IP mounted transmission vacuum valve, that valve to the metal line going over the rear of the engine and vacuum line to transmission mounted vacuum control.
That is the long version. Short version is to pull the probably rotten hose off the lift pump. Put a new hose on it and drop the other end into a can of new diesel. After you have made sure the oil is there and just oil. Open the bleeder on the fuel filter and crank the engine over with the pink wire pulled to verify the lift pump works. Once you have fuel at the bleeder, close it up and crank 20 seconds with the pink wire hooked back up. Wait a few minutes for the starter to cool down and repeat. If you get to the 6th cycle and have no engine attempting to start and no smoke of any kind out of the exhaust. You might have some IP issues.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Hey Tim! Thanks for the reply.
I was able to get it running this weekend. I did your short option and it was a great start. I belive the rings were stuck. I poured some ATF into every cylinder then turned it over by hand. After letting it sit for a few hours, I plugged the exhaust, cranked her up and it came back to life! Been driving it since and working the kinks out of it
Glad you got it running. Enjoy the chug, chug, chug.
On my blazer the drivers side alt belt, furthest away from batteries (alt/gen 1) snapped off so I had to get a replacement. I’m just concerned on the purpose of it and how far I can drive without that belt on. I don’t have the proper setup/tools to do it at this time so I’m going to my mechanic
The other belts will turn your water pump. Your power steering will feel a little catchy. Especially if you are on the brakes while turning. Otherwise, with the lights off and no heater fan, once started the engine will run a very long time with a fully charged battery.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 thank you Tim, you’re such a great resource 👍🏽
What is the r pole on the altenator for?
There should be a brown or tan wire with a black cap on the R pin. Exact same black cap as is used for the fuel gauge sender at the tank. It is part of the STE/ICE test set up that connects to the cannon plug under your dash. Engine RPM is the purpose. If you buy a Dakota Dgital tach adaptor, plug it into the R pin and then plug a tachometer to the Dakota Digital box. You will have a working tachometer.
Where zan I get the manual from?
It seems I can’t put links in the comments. Steelsoldiers.com or jatonkam35s.com bot have them to download for free. Portrayal Press will sell you paper copies. As will lots of people on eBay.