Video

Probably around 1 gallon give or take

@@lynt7508 Thank you. I was able to solder the tab back to window. It was a pain. Also had to be careful to not get glass to hot/ break it. Took a few attempts to get solder to hold good... but it's doable. Been good since I did this. Good luck.

@@Texas_Takeover purchased from homedepot. I believe I got it for around $1200 ballpark. Now they have this version but in a tri-fuel for like $300 more. Wish that was an available option when I was looking.

@@Neighbor51 thank you!

It's awesome. It can run my whole house. Just not electric dryer, and I can only use 1 -2 burner on my electric stove tops. The stove & dryer draw the most electric current... However this generator can start up & run my 2.5 ton ac unit just fine. Just have to be mindful to not use stove at same time. I have it set up to plug into my house , running to electric panel through an interlock switch. The fact it has a low thd% of like 3% , I don't have to worry about ruining sensitive electronic devices (tv,cell phones, fridge... stuff with circuit boards) Champion came out with a newer version of this generator. It's more fuel efficient & can run on propane & Natural gas. Mine is only gasoline. I'd of bought the newer version, if it was available. Regardless I trust this to get me through an emergency. It fires up great & easy every time. I Don't think you can beat these Champion inverter generators due the price. I looked around a lot for the best bang for the buck.

There is no good way to really check the fluid level. You have to drain & refill. You can try Taking out the fill bolt (above drain bolt on passenger side) and see if a little fluid dribbles out or try and put a finger/screwdriver/ pick in there and feel for fluid close to top of the fill line opening 🤷‍♂️. You could always just top it off. My leak wasn't that drastic. Doesn't take a lot of oil to start making a mess too. Good luck.

I don't. I'll check next time I'm out there & let you know.

Yeah. I usually try & respond within a day or so.

Glad to hear! Thank you. 👍

I noticed mine are starting to crack too. I just put a few screws in the corners for now(and braced a 2x4 with screws in the inside corner). It's still very sturdy I'll definitely have to do this next spring! Are the new corners they sent you.... seem upgraded in design where they won't crack in a few years Dien the road?

Awesome! I'm glad to hear. 👍

Mac pro chamber mid pipe, Flowmaster 40s cat back

It's not hydraulic. It's cable driven.

Honestly I can't say I remember 100%. Call Hanlon motorsports. They specialize in tremec transmissions.

I moved shifter side to side in neutral and I had a small exhaust leak at time.

@@jimmyjamesgarage3290 right on. Love the car and the channel buddy!

@@EskimoFo69 Thank you!

Lots of people have over 150k still running good in the fb groups

Drained all trans fluid out & replaced with all synchromesh. I wouldn't recommend mixing any oil in a vehicle.. unless in a pinch and planning to change very soon.

how did you fix the squeaking??

Not sure. I know ford rear ends require the Motorcraft friction modifier for the limited slip to work correctly (unless you want a one wheel peel). My f150 used the same stuff.

Do we live in the same neighborhood? I have had a crack start in one of my corners of the shed. Structural integrity is still good though. I just put a few screws through the corner to close up the crack. I just saw another comment on here, where someone else said their shed corners cracked.... but after a call & email Suncast sent them new corners under warranty. I'll look into that next spring. Glad the video was helpful. 👍

I highly recommend getting the Maximum motorsports clutch cable. It's a little bit more but worth the quality & peace of mind.

Recall was for the 99s. I have no idea if it can still be done tbh.

It could be a bad u joint, driveshaft out of balance, driveshaft yoke, and or tailshaft bushing. Hopefully a bad you joint. Also check your rear wheel bearings for play.

So check all the joints around the drive shaft basically

Sherwin-williams contractors primer. I did not texture the ceilings. I did 1 coat primer & 2 coats Sherwin-williams ceiling paint. Used a magnum x5 sprayer for ceilings and back rolled. It turned out great.

@@jimmyjamesgarage3290 I have the X7

@@BZ1340 they're game changing compared to rolling for sure. I primed the whole basement in 4 hrs. Ceilings & walls. Approx. 900sq ft. It payed for itself in that one use IMHO.

Soldering the metal tap on the loose wire back to rear window with a solder iron. It's a PIA but it works.

Some good points for sure. Ford went to using national bearings as there oem bearing last I knew. The truth is they all fail because it's not a great design for longevity. I've been loving the spring. Keeps enough pressure on the shift fork & cable to keep my clutch pedal from rattling/jumping when just cruising around. The springs aren't very stiff at all. I've had no binding issues either with this setup. Also I do have my TOB touching the flywheel just slightly with little force. It's holding up great so far. Way better then the last TOB. But yeah, people argu both ways on how the tob fail due to having constant contact & no contact. Both have very valid points.

I'd probably part with the mustang before the bike tbh.

Yeah it was old 93 ⛽️gas for sure(mixed with honda hp2 oil 32:1)! I'm going to drain it out and put fresh gas in before next ride. The idle came down a lot too after I cut the video. It was definitely cold outside. Yeah I got lucky with this bike. I didn't know how desirable and how good the 01's where when I bought it back in 2010. I previously had a 96cr125, and wanted a cr250. Everyone was all about the 450 4 strokes then. I got it for such a great deal from original owner. I don't think I'll ever sell it.

Right on. But can you do that with bolt ons NA? I'm sure with cams(which our pricy for these 4vs because you need 4 cams) some head work and bumping the compression, or maybe even going carbureted🤔..... its very possible. But that's a lot of $ to spend. Especially if you need a shop to do the work. As its labor intestive. But I hear ya. I haven't Heard/ seen many doing it. But I'm all ears. I like NA builds for sure! More reliable 👍

I had the clamping end attached to a bolt that grounds to the frame/body of car. I believe I attached it to the backdoor striking latch on the body of car. I then used test light to probe the electrical harness going to back window defrost grid on both sides. Test light was just to verify if it was getting electricy/ completing the circuit for the rear defrost. Hope this helps & good luck. 👍

Perfect!....Thanks for posting!!

I'm probably close to 2000 miles since replacing. So far it's been great. I ordered it off rockauto.com. it's the only timken one offered I believe. Lmk if not & I'll look into more for you. I did add extra grease to it too. I literally greased up everything really good while I had it apart.

I didn't loose much oil at all with the manual pump. There was some loss After diff was full. To minimize that I pumped remainder fluid in lines in one of the empty quart jugs I had. Worked out pretty good

Thats awesome. Glad this was helpful! 👍