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Hi David. Yes i have used the X-Ultra quite a few times with the Picopresso. With its 12.5 micron fine adjustment Its a very decent grinder for none pressurised Espresso, so with the Picopresso's slow flow basket it works very well. The Picopresso uses a slow flow basket and not a regular none pressurised basket, this type of basket sits in between a none pressurised basket and a pressurised basket and is useful for cheaper more basic grinders that have bigger micron adjustment, so with the X-Ultra you kind of get a little extra grind range to play with.

Really happy the video helped. The JX-Pro is a very decent grinder, let down a little by the slightly confusing adjustment and calibration. Let me know if you need any advice.

@@meandmyRC99 you are very welcome.

08 to 12 is Turkish 12 to 16 is Espresso.

You are very welcome, happy to help.

@@davidsmith9 yes you need to assemble your JX-Pro regularly. Tighten the thumb nut up all the way as usual, if you you don’t tighten the thumb nut all the way it won’t be in the correct starting position. Then put the adjustment dial on and also turn it all the way until you feel tightened and resistance (finger tight) then slow down and tighten the rest of the way. My method is not the same as the 1Zpresso method. When I have tightened the thumb nut and also the the adjustment dial, I then open the adjustment dial a few clicks (or until you can move the bottom of the burr disc with your free hand) that allows me to slightly adjust the position either left or right, then I close the adjustment dial each time to see if the adjustment dial has moved to the correct position.

Yes i totally agree with you that 1Zpresso just cannot seem to get their website together and make is user friendly, its really the reason that i started posting these video's. Basically the J Grinder is a reissue of the JX Grinder (with a couple of changes) so the grind reference chart from the JX Grinder is 100% the same as the grind reference chart for J Grinder, so you wont have any issues using the JX chart for the J grinder.

Hi Adam. It sounds like you have over tightened the adjustment dial and locked it up. This is a video that i made when someone dropped their grinder and it pretty much explain a similar situation to what you need to do: czcams.com/video/oySuKyneaNw/video.html This happens quite a lot when people first take the grinder out and try to calibrate the adjustment dial or are not sure how far to turn the adjustment dial to get the dial to the zero position. The issue is that the thumb nut (the small silver nut in the top of the grinder) has tightened too much and it wont allow you to screw it off again. I have had several cases like this and the thumb nut cannot be turned by hand, so the only option is to use some tools to open the thumb nut again by turning it anti clockwise. If you use the correct tools (combination pliers in my case because they have a flat surface on the front that makes turning the nut easier). But if you have a small spanner thats small enough to grip the nut and will turn it, use whatever tools you have that works. I highly recommend that you use some cloth to cover the nut first and the area below the nut, because you can easily scratch the surface of the grinder if you are not careful. If you have the correct tool, the nut should turn pretty easily and then you can take it off completely. At that point your burr shaft might also be stuck. So place the grinder on a flat surface. Then take the cloth and place it over the top of the tip of the burr shaft and tap the top of the burr shaft a couple of times with something heavy and it will pop out. The last part might sound a little scary but its necessary to get the burrs out, its also what 1Zpresso would suggest that you do. Once the thumb nut and the burrs are out, you can re assemble the grinder and calibrate it, after that it will be good to go.

Yes the J-Ultra can be used for Pour over, in fact the J-Ultra can be used for all brew types, from French press down to Turkish. The only issue that you might have with the J-Ultra if you want to use if for Pour over, is that it can create slightly more fines at the medium and course grind range because its got very fine micron adjustment (8 microns). But other than this one thing, its an excellent grinder for all brew types. If you want to go the opposite way and get a grinder that is a little less useful for Espresso, but a little better for Pour over, go for the K-Ultra (20 microns).

@@mightymightyironhead Thank you very much for your answer and for your video. I'm choosing now between X-Ultra and J-Ultra. Primarily for making espresso, but sometimes I also make filter coffee. On the 1Zpresso website, J-Ultra is positioned as exclusively for espresso (that’s why my question arose). X-Ultra is considered universal, but in my country it currently costs a little ($14) more than J-Ultra, although based on prices from the same official website, J-Ultra should be $30 more expensive. Please tell me (if you have such information) - will X-Ultra have a radically cleaner grind for filter coffee than J-Ultra?

Too be honest both the K-Ultra and the J-Ultra are physically very similar, i have had some very nice shots of Espresso with both grinders and like most things coffee, its not that easy to tell any difference between the two unless you are testing them side by side. If you have some money to burn and you want a dedicated Espresso grinder and a dedicated Pour over grinder, you would notice some difference between the two grinders. I if you are happy with the results that you get from your K-Ultra and dont need that extra fine grind adjustment for dialing in, its a pretty big cost for a little extra flavour. There are a couple of things that do mean that both grinders will have differences in flavour, not just for Espresso, but also other brew types and the obvious thing would be the micron size. 8 microns for the J-Ultra and 20 microns for the K-Ultra is absolutely going to mean that you will have different flavour profiles using the two grinders for each brew type. For example, the J-Ultra can produce more fines because of its very fine microns adjustment, so that can be an issue for Pour over. But again from my testing its really not that significant and it can actually help with some types of beans and some roast levels. Another thing that does slightly change the flavour profile between these two grinders is the coasting on the J-Ultra burrs. I personally do think that coated burrs do have an impact on the flavour in cup and produce "a purer flavor" but again it is not that much or that noticeable, especially between two top end grinders, it would probably be more obvious between one of these grinders and a cheaper grinder. Lastly, there is a difference between each burrs again. The K-Ultra burrs have small cutting edges all the way up the sides of the blades and the J-Ultra has small cutting edges half way up the sides . These small cutting edges are there for grinding efficiency, heat management and particle size distribution ect ect I wrote this to explain about different burr types because i get asked a lot obout this type of thing, it might be super boring, but there are a few thanks that might be interesting and help explain what i am talking about. Full-Length Cutting Edges (K-Ultra): Half-Length Cutting Edges (J-Ultra): Here are some reasons why cutting edges might be present all the way up the blades in some designs and only halfway up in others: 1. Grinding Efficiency Full-Length Cutting Edges: Burrs with cutting edges all the way up the blades can provide a more aggressive and faster grind. They are often used in grinders designed for high-throughput settings where speed is a priority. Half-Length Cutting Edges: Burrs with cutting edges only halfway up may be designed to create a more gradual and controlled grinding process. This can lead to a more consistent grind size, which is important for brewing methods that require uniformity, such as espresso. 2. Heat Management: Full-Length Cutting Edges: These can generate more heat due to the increased friction and contact area. This might not be ideal for delicate coffee beans where maintaining a lower temperature during grinding is important to preserve flavor. Half-Length Cutting Edges: By reducing the contact area and friction, these burrs can help manage heat better, leading to a cooler grinding process that preserves the coffee’s aromatic compounds. 3. Particle Size Distribution: Full-Length Cutting Edges: May produce a wider range of particle sizes, which can be desirable for certain brewing methods like French press or cold brew that benefit from a mix of fine and coarse particles. Half-Length Cutting Edges: Aim to produce a more uniform particle size, which is crucial for brewing methods like espresso and pour-over that require precise control over extraction. 4. Durability and Maintenance: Full-Length Cutting Edges: Burrs with more extensive cutting surfaces might wear out faster due to increased friction and contact with the coffee beans. Half-Length Cutting Edges: Can be more durable and require less frequent replacement, as the reduced contact area minimizes wear. 5. Manufacturing and Cost: Full-Length Cutting Edges: These can be more complex and costly to manufacture due to the additional machining required to create the full-length edges. Half-Length Cutting Edges: Simpler and potentially more cost-effective to produce, making them a popular choice for many mid-range and entry-level grinders. The choice between full-length and half-length cutting edges in conical burrs depends on the desired balance between grinding speed, heat management, particle size distribution, durability, and manufacturing cost. Each design has its own advantages, and the best choice depends on the specific needs and preferences of the user and the intended use of the grinder.

@@gionandrivenditto8618 Si compró su producto Wacaco en un distribuidor oficial de Wacaco a través de Amazon, estará cubierto por la garantía de Wacaco y el distribuidor deberá reemplazar el producto defectuoso por usted. Si el distribuidor no quiere reemplazar el producto defectuoso por usted, escriba al soporte de Wacaco a esta dirección de correo electrónico: support@wacaco.com y explíqueles lo que sucedió, le pedirán el número de serie que recibió con el producto para verificar que el producto sea auténtico y también saber qué distribuidor vendió el producto. Se pondrán en contacto con el distribuidor y le pedirán que reemplace el producto defectuoso, o ellos mismos le darán un reemplazo.

What i always do first if i have any issues with the Nanopresso is make sure that everything is cleaned properly, so i recommend that you dismantle your Nanopresso and clean everything. Clean behind the rubber gaskets, unscrew the pressure release valve and clean the small spring inside and even clean behind the shower screen because that can get very dirty over time. The fill the Nanopresso with hot water and pump that through a few times to clean out any small coffee particles that might have become stuck inside, this will give you a good start. Ok It sounds like you have two or three issues here and both could be caused by incorrect grind size and poor coffee puck preparation and also it could be down to your grinder. If you are using a cheaper basic grinder, something like a Hario with ceramic burrs, this will create a very inconsistent grind particle, so when you use the coffee ground with this grinder, the coffee bed will have area where the surface of the coffee bed is easer for water to pass through and areas where its harder for the water to pass through, this will create a very unbalanced and sour flavour and a puck that is dry in some parts and wet in other parts. Usually if your Espresso shot is sour and slightly wet is is caused by the following: Under-extraction: Cause: The coffee hasn't been extracted long enough. Solution: Increase the extraction time by grinding the coffee finer or increasing the amount of coffee used. Water Temperature: Cause: The water temperature is too low. Solution: Ensure the water temperature is between 195-205°F (90-96°C). (This one is not so easy to do, but you can pre heat the Nanopresso by pumping hot water through the Nanopress before using it and this will make your shot hotter) Coffee Dose: Cause: Using too little coffee. Solution: Increase the coffee dose to ensure a proper extraction. Grind Size: Cause: The coffee grind is too coarse. Solution: Use a finer grind to increase the contact time between water and coffee. Tamp Pressure: Cause: Uneven or insufficient tamping. Solution: Apply consistent and firm tamp pressure to ensure an even extraction. Freshness of Coffee: Cause: Stale coffee beans. Solution: Use freshly roasted coffee beans and grind them just before brewing. If your espresso puck is slightly wet and comes out broken, it indicates issues with the puck preparation or extraction process. Here are some common causes and their solutions: Grind Size: Cause: The grind size may be too coarse. Solution: Use a finer grind. The coffee should have the consistency of table salt. Tamping: Cause: Uneven or insufficient tamping pressure. Solution: Apply consistent, firm, and level pressure when tamping to ensure the coffee is evenly compressed. Coffee Dose: Cause: Using too little coffee. Solution: Ensure you are using the correct amount of coffee for your portafilter basket. Typically, 18-20 grams for a double shot. Distribution: Cause: Uneven distribution of coffee in the portafilter. Solution: Use a distribution tool or tap the portafilter gently on the counter to ensure even distribution before tamping. Water Pressure: Cause: Incorrect water pressure during extraction. Solution: Ensure your espresso machine is set to the correct pressure, typically around 9 bars. Portafilter and Group Head: Cause: Dirty or clogged portafilter or group head. Solution: Clean your portafilter and group head regularly to ensure proper flow of water. Steps to Improve Your Espresso Puck: Grind and Dose: Measure your coffee dose accurately. Use a consistent grind size, adjusting finer if necessary. Distribution: Distribute the coffee evenly in the portafilter. Use a distribution tool or tap the portafilter on a flat surface. Tamping: Tamp the coffee with consistent pressure, ensuring the surface is level. Machine Maintenance: Clean the group head and portafilter regularly. Check and adjust the water pressure if needed.

@mightymightyironhead hi friend, thank you for taking the time to write the detailed explanation. I'm using pre-ground bali coffee, medium roast. I suspect its more of a omni-grind? I had success twice with quite balanced espresso but after that it has gone downhill... I've deep cleansed the nanopresso as you've written, I pray for the best the next shot I pull. I weighed 8g, tamped as evenly as I could, both hard and lighter and the lighter tamp seems to be better. However, the same issue of a wet, soggy puck and water retained below the basket puzzles me still. Is this normal? It's a pain to remove the puck when it's all gooey... thank you for reading

Wow.... such ingratitude. For your information George, this video was not meant to be a high budget movie, it was simply meant to show my customers and anyone else who is having issues with the calibration for the JX-Pro how to do that, which is obviously what led you here to be super critical and rude. To make this video i needed to pay for everything myself, then take time out of my business, again at a cost, because i have a thousand other things that i could be doing with my time, but i choose to make video's that might help even a few people and i dont get paid for that. So if you think my video is so bad, please go somewhere else and insult and criticise them for not being 100% to your liking, or you could also figure it out yourself, its really not that difficult and then make your own video and post it on CZcams for other ungrateful people like yourself to complain about.

Спасибо за ваши очень позитивные комментарии. Я очень рад, что вы нашли мою информацию полезной. В этой кофемолке довольно сложно разобраться, особенно если вы новичок. Многих смущает калибровка и то, что означают цифры на регулировочном диске для каждого размера помола, и 1Zpresso действительно не очень хорошо объясняет эти вещи. Я обнаружил, что можно немного сдвинуть заусенцы, и это изменит число на регулировочном диске, что очень любопытно, и это действительно поможет вам использовать кофемолку JX-Pro, так что вам не придется постоянно снимать регулировочный диск и двигать гайку большого пальца, а затем каждый раз прикручивать регулировочный диск обратно. JX-Pro - это очень хорошая кофемолка, которую можно использовать и для приготовления эспрессо (без портафильтра). Многие другие дорогие кофемолки просто не могут быть использованы для приготовления эспрессо (без портафильтра), поэтому JX-Pro является очень полезным продуктом. Я думаю, что как только вы научитесь пользоваться кофемолкой JX-Pro, ваш кофейный путь улучшится на 100 %, но если вам нужен совет по поводу кофемолки JX-Pro, пожалуйста, напишите мне, и я сделаю все возможное, чтобы помочь вам. Пожалуйста, извините за мои ограниченные способности говорить по-русски, я несколько раз посещал вашу удивительную страну и у меня остались очень хорошие воспоминания о проведенном там времени, но мой русский язык все еще очень плох, так что мои искренние извинения. Удачи и крепкого здоровья За здоровье

Thank you also for the positive feedback. Really happy it helped you.

James thanks for the positive feedback, really appreciate you taking the time to check out my video's.

James thank you for taking the time to watch my video's and thanks also for the positive feedback. Have a great weekend.

@@mightymightyironhead. You’re welcome! I can get the metal Q2 7 burr mode for an extra 20 US dollars over the price of the Q Air. You think it’s worth the extra 20 dollars? Thanks.

Thank you very much for the positive feedback and thanks also for the subscription. The Picopresso is a pretty decent Espresso maker. The Picopresso has a slow flow basket so its designed to make it a little easier to use than a precision basket, however i still recommend that you choose the best grinder that you can afford with the smallest micron size (steps) especially for Espresso. With the J-Ultra you also have one of the best Espresso grinders available, the 8 microns that you get with the J-Ultra gives you a huge grind range for dialing in your Espresso and if you decide that you want to then upgrade to a proper electric Espresso machine, you wont also need to upgrade your grinder because the J-Ultra is one of the best.

I tried 18 grams from 1.1 til 1.4 multiple times and after 10 pumps didn't see any drops, actually after 25 total pumps i can see drops. What should i do lower the does or go coarse. I saw people using the same grind setting they use for their machine and it works with the picopresso in that case mine are 1.1 but couldn't get drinkable results

Hi, if you have over tightened the adjustment dial, there are a couple of things that you can try to fix that. 1) Try to take the thumb nut off (the small silver disc in the top of the grinder). Its a good chance that the thumb nut has become too tight, so i recommend that you place some cloth over the thumb nut (so that you do not scratch or damage the grinder) and use some pliers to turn the thumb nut (anti clockwise) to release it again. Once you have taken the thumb nut off, you might be able to push the top of the burr shaft down and the burrs will come out. 2) If you have managed to get the thumb nut off, but the burrs are stuck and wont push down. If this has happened, you will need to place some cloth over the top of the burr shaft and gently tap the top of the burr shaft with a (small) hammer and this will push the burr shaft down and you can then take the burrs out. When you have both the thumb nut off and have taken the burrs out, all you need to do is calibrate the adjustment dial and replace the burrs and the thumb nut and your grinder will be working again.

You are very welcome. Really happy that it helped.

Hi Rhyse. Hope that the video helped you out. Trying to figure out that JX-Pro calibration can be a painful experience, please feel free to message me if you need any further help with the grinder.

The inner burrs for the Comandante C40 are 40mm (hence the C40 title) 7 core Heptagonal burrs and the X-Pro also has 40mm 7 core Heptagonal burrs, only difference is the material that Comandante uses is different to the material that 1Zpresso uses. The Comandante C40 has 30 micron (some people say that its 29 microns, but from a lot of searching, it seems that it is indeed 30 microns) The X-Pro has 12.5 microns, so the micron size for the X-Pro is a lot finer than the micron size for the C40. A smaller micron size for coffee grinder burrs results in a finer grind, which inherently produces more fines for several reasons, but the main one that we are interested in is this: Increased Surface Area: When coffee beans are ground to a finer consistency, the surface area of each particle increases. This increased surface area means that more of the coffee bean is exposed to the grinder's burrs, leading to more tiny particles, or "fines," being produced. You are correct that the shape of the burrs play a significant role in determining how many fines are produced during the grinding process and that's part of the reason that i made this video about the difference in the sharper edge burrs and the rounder edge burrs. For example: Flat vs. Conical Burrs: Flat Burrs: Flat burrs tend to produce a more uniform particle size because the coffee passes through a consistent gap between the burrs. However, they can also produce more fines because the beans are ground multiple times as they pass through the burrs. Conical Burrs: Conical burrs tend to produce fewer fines because the grinding process is more gradual and gentle, often resulting in a bimodal distribution of particle sizes (with distinct larger and smaller particles). Burr Tooth Shape and Geometry: Sharpness and Angle: Burrs with sharper, more acute angles tend to slice through the beans more cleanly, producing fewer fines. Duller or more obtuse angles crush the beans more, resulting in more fines. Cutting Surface: The design and texture of the cutting surface on the burrs influence how the beans are broken down. Burrs with a more aggressive cutting surface can create more fines due to increased fracturing of the beans. Burr Pattern and Spacing: Pattern Design: The pattern of the cutting edges (such as the number and spacing of the teeth) affects how the beans are caught and ground. A more intricate pattern with closer spacing can lead to more precise cutting but may also increase the production of fines if the beans are subjected to more cutting surfaces.

@@mightymightyironhead I am not disputing that grinding finer produces more fines (it's really obvious 😁), or that a finer grind size results in more extraction due to surface are or that burr geometry affects the particle distribution, but my confusion is that you mention the 12.5micron step in X-Pro vs 30micron step in C40 make any difference to the amount of fines (particles considerably finer than the average particle size). The 12.5 vs 30 refers to STEP SIZE when adjusting the grinder and has nothing to do with the particle distribution. This means that given the similarity in burr geometry, the X-Pro and the Commandante C40 should not have significantly different article distribution, after-all there is an official mod for the C40 that allows it to have finer STEPS (Red clicks) but it only helps with dialing espresso and has zero effect on grind profile. The X-Pro could very well have a different grind profile that the C40 due to minor differences in burr geometry or burr material (although most blind tastings comparing the 2 say they're very similar), but the 12.5 vs 30 micron STEP SIZE is NOT what would be causing that difference. It just refers to the distance travelled by the moving burr in relation to the stationary burr per one click in the adjustment dial. I hope that made sense 😅

Hi and thanks for the positive feedback. I love Thailand and i have travelled to many places in Thailand. Yes i am from the UK (North east) but i relocated to Malaysia years ago. I agree with you, Thailand grow some very good beans now and i often order some Thai beans from my beans supplier and they are always good quality and sell well. Actually most of the SE Asian countries are now growing very decent coffee beans now. For a lot of years most of the coffee beans that were exported were mostly grown in Indonesia. Countries like Laos, Vietnam and even the Philippines were growing some coffee beans, but they were often low quality and mostly not for export. Now you have Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and the Philippines all growing pretty decent beans for export. Even Malaysia are starting to grow some decent Arabica and Robusta beans now and not just growing Liberica. Happy days for everyone.

Yes i agree. I used to be a welder by trade and its something that you learn very early that any time that you join two or more things together you are creating weak points. The handle is pretty sturdy though and the latch part of the handle where the stress point is, is pretty hard. I do think that over time, if you keep opening and closing the handle a lot, the edge of this latch could wear away, but its less likely if you dont always open and close the handle.

That can really mess up your day nobody deserves bits of metal on their morning coffee. Sounds like the burrs are touching and its grinding off bits of metal shavings. I never got this "hack" to work on my Delonghi, i followed the steps very closely and looked at other videos that were all saying the same thing and adjust the red mark to the 3 o'clock position, but it wrecked my grinder. After that the grinder just did not work properly no matter what i did. I recently took the grinder out of the cupboard and had a really good look at it. I managed to get the back to factory settings, but it was a real pain in the arse to get the adjustment ring for the inner burrs and the adjustment white wheel to move independently, but after testing the grinder is seems to be grinding properly again

@@mightymightyironhead I suspect there would be a build tolerance on the burr wheel separation and the 'gap' might be further or closer depending on the unit. Re-syncing the gap control might work for some, not others (depending on the original gap).

Hi Derek, thanks for checking out the video, really happy that it was useful to you.

Hi good evening. Sorry i am a little confused about what has happened to your grinder and without more information i am only guessing here? Are you saying that you have dropped the grinder or that the adjustment dial and burrs were stuck and you hit the burr shaft at the top to loosen them and you hit the burr shaft too hard? Ok lets try and go through this and see what has happened. First thing. Before you hit the top of the burr shaft to get the burrs out, did you take off the thumb nut? I know that this is very obvious, but i just want to make sure, because when the burrs are stuck, the thumb nut is very difficult to remove and you dont mention that. Second thing. Its not really possible to hit the burr shaft too hard and do any damage to the grinder, unless you really hit the top of the grinder very very hard and the grinder moves and then gets damaged, but just hitting the top of the burr shaft will just push the burrs out of the bottom of the grinder. Third thing. How did you get the burrs stuck? D9id you drop the grinder and maybe the grinder landed on the top and damaged the adjustment dial? because if you have taken the burrs out and then replaced the burrs properly, then you have calibrated the grinder properly, the grinder should not grind slowly. Fourth thing. Like above, did you replace the burrs properly, make sure that everything is in place and tightened properly. Then did you calibrate the grinder? Personally i can not see how the adjustment dial would turn slower than before, unless you have damaged the adjustment dial, so check for any damage to the dial. If there is no damage, it can only be that you have not calibrated the grinder properly, or that you have over adjusted the adjustment dial too much There is a moving part on the adjustment dial, its the part with the numbers. Its actually possible to twist that part too hard and it will move past the adjustment points inside the adjustment dial and then not turn properly, however this is very rare and i suspect that it is not the fault with your grinder.

@mightymightyironhead can u give me ur Instagram or Twitter to send u a video for that thanks

@mightymightyironhead the adjustment dial was stuck the thumb nut was stuck and the burr also was stuck because i go under zero after cleaning. I hit both adjustment dial and the crank and the burr from down side now the coffee size same like before but the problem in the rotation even if u grind coarse. if it's possible to give me ur insta or x to send u a video for that issue thanks .

Omg I just solved it (the ring above the burr I put it opposite side) 🙃 thank u again, sir 🙏

Thanks very much for taking the time to check it out and thanks also for the positive feedback.

Hi. As far as quality and longevity both the X-Ultra and the K-Ultra are very well made, in fact all of the 1Zpresso grinders are very well made. I have been dealing with 1Zpresso for about 5 years now and i have sold thousands of their products. I think that i have had maybe 4 or 5 small issues with their grinders. These issues were things like a scratch mark that was missed in the factory, a grind handle that has a small cosmetic mark on it, i have never had a single problem were i needed to recall the product or replace a product and i can not say the same for any other company that i deal with, so if you maintain the grinder, it will last you a long time. The X-Ultra is what i would describe as an "all round" grinder and the K-Ultra is what i would describe as a "Pour over" grinder primarily because of the micron size of each grinder. For me personally i would choose the X-Ultra over the K-Ultra because of the smaller 12.5 micron size that you get with the X-Ultra, this smaller micron size gives you a decent extension to the grind range over the K-Ultra's 20 micron size and this is a lot better for Espresso. A drop of 7.5 microns might not seem significant, but when it comes to dialing in your Espresso shot, that extra grind range can make all the difference. The 20 microns that you get with the K-Ultra is still decent and can still be used for proper none pressurised Espresso, but it does not leave you with much grind range to play with. One important thing to point out about micron sizes in grinders. The smaller the micron the finer the grinder can grinder, however this smaller micron size can also produce more fines at the medium or course grind range. So for example, i would not use something like a Kinu grinder (near step less adjustment) or something like the 1Zpresso J-Ultra or J-Max (8 microns and 8.8 microns respectively) for Pour over, because they will produce more fines and that will effect the draw down speed and flavour profile too much. For Pour over i would use something like a K-Ultra with its 7 core Heptagonal burrs and a bigger micron size that is designed to give a good flavour profile for Pour over. However for brew types that do require finer grind sizes where slightly more fines dont really impact the flavour as much, like Moka pot, Aeropress and Espresso, a grinder with smaller microns are not really an issue and you do need a smaller micron size, i will always choose something like the X-Ultra with its 12.5 microns. Its also worth pointing out that the X-Ultra is within the range (micron size) where it is not too small and its not going to produce enough fines that it is going to be an issue for Pour over, i have used the X-Ultra and the X-Pro many times for Pour over and they both produce a very nice flavour profile for Pour over. Other that the things that i have mentioned above, there are a few other things that you might want to consider. obviously the X-Ultra is smaller than the K-Ultra, so you have a slightly smaller capacity (maybe 5g less depending on the beans you use). The K-Ultra has 48mm 7 core Heptagonal burrs and the X-Ultra has 40mm 7 core Heptagonal burrs, so the flavour profile is going to be very similar, but both are really fast to grind (apart from Turkish grind and light roasted beans, light roasted beans can be physically hard with any grinder and Turkish is... well its Turkish) For the brew types you say that you want to use the grinder for and for future proofing for Espresso, i would recommend that you look at the X-Ultra.

@@mightymightyironhead this video and all these comments have been some excellent information, I have been using an X-Ultra for the last few months and have been able to get some great brews out of it but have decided to supplement with an Ode Gen 2 to have an alternative grinder style and perhaps get more clarity out of the light roast filter coffees I like

@@mightymightyironhead Fantastic response! Thanks so much for all the detail! Especially since the K ultra is more expensive I would have ultimately expected it to be the better overall grinder!

Too be honest that's not the first time i have heard that, Its mental how they can take something so simple and make it so complicated. Anyway i am happy that the video was useful.

You mean the little grey square padding at the bottom of the grinder? If thats what you are referring to, its because this travel case is designed to also carry some of the other 1Zpresso grinders and some of them are slightly longer than the X-Ultra. So they include this piece of padding for the X-Ultra to stop it moving in transit and shipping. However i have taken my X-Ultra on trips with me and i did not include the padding and it stays in place very securely.

No problem, i am happy that the video was useful. Thanks for taking the time to check out the video. Feel free to message me if you need any help with the grinder when you get it.

Hi, good morning. Thanks for checking out my video. If you have purchased your X-Pro within the last few months, i am pretty confident that your grinder will have the newer sharper outer burrs and not the older rounded burrs. One of the main reasons that i made this video was because i had a lot of people asking me if the newer sharper burrs were worse than the older rounded burrs, but after testing both types of burrs, too be honest there is not that much difference between the two burrs. I am pretty sure that unless you have both burrs to test side by side, you would not really notice any difference with taste with the newer sharper burrs. You could ask 1Zpresso (assuming that you ordered the grinder directly from them) if the grinder does have the new sharper burrs and they should be able to tell you. However if you bought the grinder from a dealer or third party, i am not sure that they would know what burrs you will have in your grinder, because they would need to open the grind and dismantle it to see that, but its worth a try asking. Regarding the Kingrinder K6. The K6 is a decent grinder, its got pretty much the same type of burrs as the X-Pro (K6 is 48mm and X-Pro is 40mm) and if i remember correctly the outer burrs are the rounded burrs and not the shaper burrs. The K6 has 16 microns, so you have slightly less fine adjustment than the X-Pro with its 12.5 microns, but even 16 microns will get you a decent amount of grind adjustment for proper Espresso and you say that you mainly want to use the grinder for Moka Pot and French press and 12.5 microns with the X-Pro and the 16 microns with the K6 is much more than you need for those brew types. The Kingrinder products are pretty decent grinders, but i personally would would go for the 1Zpresso grinders because they just have the edge when it comes to build and use. But if you are really concerned about the outer sharper burrs, the K6 is a good choice because it has slightly bigger burrs, still has enough fine grind adjustment for proper Espresso, is pretty well built and is usually a little cheaper if you look around. However, with that all said, i really dont think that there is any issue with the X-Pro and the sharper burrs, like i point out in my video, the taste is not worse, its just a little different and its only a little different at certain roast levels, using certain beans for certain brew types. This difference in the flavour profile can be adjusted and can also be changed by simply grinding slightly more fine or course or by changing your beans. If you want a more chocolate and caramel profile for your coffee, typically the beans would need to be slightly darker than a medium roast for the natural sugars in the beans to start caramelising and developing sweetness. Typically, lighter roasted beans wont have this chocolate and caramel flavour, because the beans have not roasted long enough to develop the natural sugars and produce the caramel and chocolate taste. However for Moka pot and French press i would recommend that you use a medium/dark roast for both of those brew types and a lot of beans will have some caramel and chocolate taste at the medium/dark roast There are certain beans that are better than others for producing a more chocolate taste, even at the medium roast level. Some Sumatra beans can have a nice chocolate taste, but be careful because Sumatra beans can be either really nice, or really not nice (earthy and bitter) Colombian beans can also have a really nice milk chocolate taste and of course Yemeni beans are excellent if you can find them, so look around and ask about. I have some Kenya beans and some Rwanda beans in stock that are pretty chocolaty for African beans, but they are washed process beans and not natural processed beans, so that will also have a big impact on the flavour and acidity of the coffee, so maybe dont go for natural processed beans.

@@mightymightyironhead Hi, sorry for the delay in replying. I noticed you had other videos talking about grinders and I wanted to watch them before responding. Thank you, I didn't expect such a detailed response, you're amazing. I bought it from Amazon and it hasn't arrived yet, but yeah, it's probably best to assume it has the new burrs since I doubt they would know if I asked. I heard they were worse, which made me a bit hesitant, but from what you're saying, it sounds like a good option. The K6 seems like a good choice based on your comments, but if the build quality is worse than the 1zpresso, maybe it's better to skip it since I want something that will last me several years. I saw your other video comparing different grinders, and I also saw the Q2 Hexagonal as a good option, which is a bit cheaper and also has a good size since I'm traveling and being lightweight is a plus, although I'd have to give up making espresso, but oh well... Considering my preferences and the type of coffee I like, what would you do in my place? Would you stick with the X Pro S or explore another option? I'm open to other recommendations. I really appreciate the explanation about the beans; I'll have to do more research on that aspect. I'll try to try some of the ones you mentioned. Do you ship to New Zealand?

Hi good morning. Sorry for the delay in replying, CZcams is vert bad at letting me know when i have a message. I am also pretty confident that the X-Pro that you ordered will have the newer rounded burrs. I got a shipment around October last year and those had the rounded burrs and after asking, its seems that 1Zpresso started swapping out the old burrs for these new rounded burrs around that time. I do think that its possible to still find an older model with the rounded burrs if some dealer has some surplus stock, but that would mean really looking around and asking a lot of people. Honestly the new burrs are not worse than the older burrs, they are actually better in some respects because they have a more uniform grind and that can create less fines. The older rounded burrs kind of crush the beans and break them up, the new sharper burrs slice the beans, so the particles are more uniform and this allows for better extraction. Obviously this type of thing is better suited for certain brew types like Pour over and for certain types of beans at certain roast levels. The Q2 Heptagonal grinder is a pretty decent entry level grinder, the 38mm 7 core Heptagonal burrs are very nice and can produce a very decent flavour profile for Pour over, they are very similar to the ones that you get with the bigger 1Zpresso grinders like the J-Max, J-Ultra and the K series grinders, just smaller. The Q2 Heptagonal is very portable because its very small. However it has a small capacity (about 15 - 20g) and for light roasted beans at the finer grind range it can be physically hard work to grind. Also the grinder is not the best for proper none pressurised Espresso, technically it can be used, but you will find that you will only have a very small grind range to play with, maybe one setting or number and any movement from that will result in an over or under extraction. If you are only using a basic Espresso machine that has a pressurised system, the Q2 Heptagonal will work quite well for that. The Kingrinder K6 is not a bad grinder and the quality is pretty decent, its just not as good as the 1Zpresso grinders, if i had a smaller budget and the choice between the K6 and the X-Pro, i would just save a little more money and get the X-Pro. The main reason that i would do that is the micron size, the K6 has 16 and the X-Pro has 12.5 microns. That 4 microns difference might not sound significant, but for Espresso it can mean the difference between easily dialing in your shot and wasting more beans. Then there is the design and the excellent quick calibration system that you get with the X-Pro and like you mentioned the size is slightly smaller and a little more portable for the X-Pro. If i was you, i would just stick to the X-Pro, i can assure you that the burrs do not produce a bad flavour, the flavour is just as good as the regular grinder with the older burrs and its even better for some brew types and lighter roasted beans for some brew types. If you had both grinders, one with the rounded burrs and one with the sharper burrs in front of you and you tested both grinders side by side, you might find that they are slight differences in the flavours that you get for some brew types with different beans. However its also possible to produce wildly different flavours with the same grinder using the same beans for the same brew type, by just adjusting the grind size finer or more course, or allowing the beans to degas or rest for longer and i think that this issue with the change of burrs and some online posts about this change has confused a lot of people who think that the grinder is somehow broken and the flavour is now really bad, that's simply not true. I am actually selling my own personal X-Pro grinder, its got the regular rounded burrs. Its only been used about 6 or 7 times for testing and for making a demonstration video, so its basically an unused product. Its got the regular handle and not the new S series handle, but 1Zpresso sell the new handle separately and these can fit onto the older grinders. I can ship internationally. I am located in Malaysia, so thats not too far away from New Zealand, i can easily get you a shipping price if you can give me some deliver details like a post code.

Hi, sorry i am confused. “Burrs are at 4 and 9 out of the box” The burrs can not be at both numbers, so i an not sure what tou are trying to say? Its not unusual when you take the grinder out for the firat time to find that the grinder is not calibrated, so tour grinder is obviously not calibrated and you will have to do that.

Hi Jake. There are few things that can cause you to get some coffee particles in your Espresso shot. Its possible that this is caused by your grinder not being consistent and creating a lot of fines, some of the cheaper entry grinders can be pretty inconsistent and they do create a lot of uneven grinds from the very small to the very large. If you are using a really cheap grinder like a Hario grinder, this can cause a lot of fines and small inconsistent grind particles to get into your shot. Some of the very small (fines) can be pushed through the holes in the coffee basket and end up in your shot. These very small particles can look like residue because they are very fine and some of the slightly bigger ones can look like grinds, but they are still small enough to be pushed through the holes in the coffee basket. Its also possible that you are using super market pre ground coffee powder and this powder is ground too fine, so again the smaller coffee particles are so small that they are pushed through the holes in the coffee basket and end up in your shot. However if you are using a decent grinder with stainless steel burrs, i would look at your grind size and maybe grind a little more course. A lot of entry level grinders have pretty big microns, so they have problems when it comes to fine grind adjustment for Espresso. It pretty easy to grind too fine when you can not adjust the grind size to dial in a good shot, so what happens is that the grind size is too fine and you need to apply more pressure when pumping, this can push the very small fines through the holes in the basket. So i would personally try to grind a little more coarse to see if this helps. Remember that your Nanopresso is a pressurised porta filter, it does not need a very fine ground coffee to work. In fact if you try to use very fine ground coffee that is better suited for a none pressurised coffee basket, this will block the Nanopresso and cause issues like the grinds ending up in your shot. Another thing to check is your cleaning and maintenance. If you do not dismantle your Nanopresso and clean it properly and regularly, you will get some coffee particles that are left inside the Nanopresso and these can also get into your shot. Its a good idea to take all the parts out and clean them, including the orange rubber gasket around the porta filter pressure release valve, small coffee grinds can get under this rubber gasket or inside the space where the rubber gasket fit onto the plastic valve, so its important to clean that. Its also worth taking the shower screen off and cleaning underneath that, this can get very dirty over time. I dont think that this is causing the grinds to get into your shot, but its still worth cleaning. Unscrew the pressure release valve and take the spring out, clean inside that also.

Hi Malcolm. Yes that pretty much it. You just need to fill the grinder with coffee beans and turn the grind handle counter clockwise until all the beans are ground. When the beans are finished grinding the handle will turn freely. At 1.5 (1 full rotation and turn to the number 5) thats pretty much at the end of the Espresso grind range, so i assume that you are grinding for Espresso. I would recommend that you calibrate the grinder, so that you have the 0 number at the starting position, that will make your life a little easier.

@@mightymightyironhead love your videos very informative . many many thanks for the quick reply I thought that’s how it works, I have checked and the 0 seems to be calibrated correctly from the factory what would you recommend 1.5 or less for espresso in a outin nano I plan to use 18 grams beans as I want a double espresso I am new to all this as I used to have a pod machine but decide I would take the time to do this and enjoy my coffee making more I found some great beans in Rotterdam from giraffe called Latin America Blend - Espresso one last thing how do you store your beans once packet opened

No problem Malcolm, you are very welcome, happy to help. The manual grinders are pretty straight forward to use, beans in, grind, powder out. Generally you will be using medium/dark or dark roast beans for Espresso. Darker roasted beans are physically easier to grind than medium or light roasted beans, however they can take a little longer than medium (Pour over) because obviously you are grinding a lot finer for Espresso. But you have an excellent Espresso grinder there and a full hopper should take about 1 minute (or less) to grind for Espresso using medium/dark or dark roasted beans. I dont advise that you use light roasted beans for Espresso, because they are very dense and hard and if you are grinding Espresso fine, thats a real workout. For the J-Ultra you have between 1 and 1.7 (nearly 2 full rotations) that cover you full Espresso grind range. If you are more toward the number 1 (1 full rotation, that's obviously very fine and is as fine as Turkish) that type of fine grind is better suited for a proper Espresso machine that uses a none pressurised coffee basket (precision basket) When you get to 1.5 thats about 2 thirds through the grind range for Espresso, so you are starting to get more to the courser end of the Espresso grind range (thats still pretty fine and can still be used for a proper Espresso machine that uses a none pressurised coffee basket (precision basket) but its starting to be course enough to use for a more basic Espresso machine or maker that uses a pressurised coffee basket like a Wacaco Minipresso, Nanopresso or your Outin Nano. If i was you, i would maybe start with a slightly more course grind size than 1.5 for you Outin Nano, because a pressurised basket like the one you have there can actually work with a slightly more course grind size and if your grind size is too fine, you will block it pretty easily. Regarding your beans, If the beans are in a proper sealed coffee bag with a one way valve on the back, that is pretty much the best place to store your beans. That valve on the back is designed to let the coffee degas, but also prevent oxygen from getting into the beans. Try to only open the bag when you are taking a few beans out to grind and then reseal the bag so that air cant get in. Also only ever grind enough beans for what you want to use, if you grind beans to store or keep for the next day, they will go stale very quickly, so only grind when you want to use the beans. If you can, always try to get fresh roasted beans, if possible, get roast to order beans, so that the beans are roasted the same day (or within a few days) of you buying the beans (fresh roasted beans need to degas and that can take a few days are they are roasted) there is a huge difference between fresh roasted beans and the old stale beans that you buy at the super market or from coffee shops like Starbucks, these beans are months old, not fresh beans.

@@mightymightyironhead thank you so much for the info it is a real pleasure to deal with you and your knowledge is hard earn I am sure I will give it all a try and let you know best regards from Holland Mal

@@MalcolmRobbins No problem Malcolm, you are very welcome, happy to help. Good luck and feel free to message me if you need any more help.

Haha i totally agree. The brush that they give you with the Q2 is like the makeup brush that my wife uses, its not very good at all. I changes mine for a paintbrush that i had lying around, the bristles are a little harder so its much better for getting into the burrs and inside the grinder.

Thanks for your positive feedback and comments. The reason that i started posting these videos was because i noticed that a lot of people were really confused about the information (or lack of information) on the 1Zpresso website. 1Zpresso have always been pretty bad at providing useful information. They used to include the physical copy of the manual and the grind reference chart with their grinders, these two things where very helpful to a lot of people, but they stopped including those. Their website was actually updated a year or so ago, it was even worse than it is now and a lot of people complained that the translation was very hard to understand. I have talked to 1Zpresso quite a few times about feedback from from customers, things that the end user finds confusing and frustrating, but so far they dont seem to be that interested in feedback and seem content on releasing a new grinder, then a year later discontinuing that grinder and releasing another new grinder. Anyway thank you again for the positive feedback, its always good for me to see that my video's are helping people.

Hi, it kind of depends on what type of coffee brew you want?. Both of these products can make a really nice, however the Pipamoka can make 3 different types of coffee. The main brew is a regular "filtered" type coffee that can taste quite clean and is more similar to a Pour over than an immersion brewer. However the Pipamoka can also make an "Espresso style" brew that does taste pretty strong and is more similar to the type of brew that you get with the Aeropress and you can use this "Espresso style" brew to make a Latte or Cappuccino, so thats pretty useful. The 3rd brew is a "Cold brew type brew". Both of these products are pretty easy to use and easy to clean. The Pipamoka takes about the same time to make the brew as the Aeropress does. With the Aeropress, you need to have the correct grind size to get a good extraction. With the Pipamoka you need to get the correct grind size, because if you are too course, the coffee basket will pull to fast and you will get an under extraction, if its too fine, it will be difficult to twist the tube and pull the basket through the water and this will give you an over extraction. However they both kind of work the opposite way, the Pipamoka has a twist style where you pull the coffee through the water using a vacuum and the Aeropress uses a French press style pumping method and both these methods can result in different extractions and different flavour profiles for each product. I personally dont really prefer the stronger flavour coffee that you get with extractions from products like the Aeropress (there are quite a few different recipes that you can use with the Aeropress that does result in different flavour profiles, but the regular Aeropress taste can be pretty strong) I personally prefer the cleaner and less strong taste that you get with the Pipamoka, its a little like an Americano if you made it with natural processed beans instead of stronger Brazilian/Robusta beans, but obviously you will still get different flavours depending on what coffee you use. Both products are very portable, but i found that the plastic cup with the Aeropresso go was not so good and i also found that the Original Aeropress made a slightly bigger brew than the Go, so if you dont really need that plastic cup or you have a better thermos, i would advide that you just get the original Aeropress. The Pipamoka includes a metal thermos cup with a good lid that does actually keep your coffee hot for hours, its water tight, so you can actually make your brew and take that with you and it should not spill. Anyway i hope that was helpful to you.

@@mightymightyironhead thank You very much for so full answer!

Hi Peter. It is true that the burrs are very important when it comes to the flavour profile, burrs with more or less cores, burrs with more or less cutting edges up the sides, the type of material and if its highly polished or not, if its coated or not to name a few things. All of these things can change the flavour profile slightly (or not so slightly) but the micron size of the grinder is also important to consider, because a smaller micron size can and will produce more fines. So if you have two grinders with the same type and size of burrs (for example both the J-Max and the K-Max have 48mm 7 core Heptagonal burrs) but both grinders have a very different micron size (J-Max has 8.8 microns and K-Max has 22 microns) the J-Max will produce more fines and that can produce a different flavour profile to the K-Max. Actually 1Zpresso even state on their own website for grinders like the J-Max and now the J-Ultra that these grinders "can produce slightly more fines" and they do this because more fines will alter the flavour profile. Here is some information about how and why. Precision in Grind Size: The grinder with 12.5-micron adjustments offers finer granularity in grind size adjustments compared to the one with 22-micron adjustments. This means you have more precise control over the grind size, allowing for smaller incremental changes. This finer control can affect the extraction process, potentially influencing the flavor profile of the coffee. Optimal Extraction: With finer adjustments, you can more precisely dial in the grind size to achieve the optimal extraction for a specific brewing method. This can result in a more consistent and flavorful cup of coffee because you have better control over variables such as extraction time and brew strength. Consistency: The grinder with finer adjustments may also provide greater consistency in grind size from one setting to another. Consistency in grind size is crucial for uniform extraction, which can lead to a more balanced and nuanced flavor profile in the brewed coffee. Flexibility: However, it's worth noting that having coarser adjustments doesn't necessarily mean inferior quality. The grinder with 22-micron adjustments may still offer a wide enough range to cover most brewing methods adequately. It may provide more flexibility in experimenting with different brewing techniques and recipes, albeit with slightly less precision compared to the finer adjustments. So while both grinders may produce high-quality coffee, the one with finer micron adjustments might offer a slight edge in terms of precision, consistency, and control over the brewing process, potentially leading to a more refined and nuanced flavor profile in the cup. However you then need to take into account the smaller micron size producing more fines. Increased Extraction: Smaller micron size adjustments allow for finer grinds, which in turn can lead to increased extraction. The increased surface area of the coffee grounds exposed to water can extract more soluble compounds from the coffee beans. This can include both desirable flavors and undesirable compounds, such as over-extracted bitterness. Enhanced Extraction of Flavor Compounds: The finer grind size can extract more of the aromatic and flavorful compounds from the coffee beans. This may result in a cup of coffee with more intense flavors, increased complexity, and a richer aroma. However, if not properly controlled, it can also lead to a brew that's overly bitter or astringent due to over-extraction. Presence of Fines: While fines (very small coffee particles) can contribute to body and mouthfeel, an excessive amount of fines can negatively impact the overall flavor profile. Fines can lead to over-extraction during brewing, causing bitterness and cloudiness in the cup. Potential for Channeling: Finer grinds and the presence of fines can also increase the likelihood of channeling during brewing. Channeling occurs when water finds paths of least resistance through the coffee bed, resulting in uneven extraction. This can lead to a less balanced flavor profile, as some areas of the coffee bed are over-extracted while others are under-extracted. So, while smaller micron size adjustments can offer greater control over the brewing process and potentially lead to a more intense and flavorful cup of coffee, it's essential to manage fines and extraction carefully to avoid negative impacts on the flavor profile. Finding the right balance between grind size, extraction time, and other brewing variables is crucial for achieving the desired flavor characteristics in the final cup.

​@@mightymightyironhead Thank you for your comprehensive reply. I still don't get why smaller adjustment gaps should lead to more fines. An example: Lets say one mounts the same burr set on a thread that results in a 10 micron adjustabilty and one on a different thread that results in a 20 micron step adjustabilty. To create the same result in the cup, the first burr set would just need twice as many clicks. In the end its just a different thread pitch resulting in a different granularity.

To be fair i think that most people that make these type of video's assume that most other people who are interested in manual coffee grinders already have an basic understanding of how to use the grinder. The basics like what end to put the beans in and what end the ground powder comes out is the same for pretty much all manual grinders. After that there can be a few things that are a little different, but not entirely different between most manual grinders. The size and type of burrs can be a little different from grinder to grinder, but fundamentally they all do very similar things, the calibration between grinders can be slightly different, the dismantling and reassembly can be slightly different, but not that difficult to understand, then you have things like the micron size, this can be very important to each grinder and will determine if the grinder is more or less able to adjust for Espresso. I always try to include as much information as possible without making the video 2 hours long and getting complaints from viewer and also trying not to hold my viewers hands too much and assume that they dont know the very basics. If there is something that i have missed out of one of my videos i always do my best to answer any questions or comments about the grinders, i am also very open to any suggestions for things that i might have missed or things that people want to see included in future videos. So if you have any questions or need any help with using any of the grinder, i am happy to help you with that. If you have any suggestions for something that you would like to see in a video, please let me know and i am happy to also include that.

I actually did fix the grinder in the end. It took me quite a lot of time and puzzling it out, but i did get the grinder back to what looks like the default grind size. I had a lot of issues with the grinder with either the burrs touching, or the burrs not grinding the correct grind size for the correct grind setting. Then the grinder was grinding course than more fine within the same grind cycle. In the end i totally dismantled the grinder (pretty much to the same point that you do when you do the hack) the thing that was messing my grinder up was that i could not get the burrs to go back to their default position. When i moved the white adjustment cog wheel for the hack to move the burr position closer (the one that has the small red marking to shows you when its calibrated and move when you turn the dial on the front of the grinder) this seemed to totally throw everything out and my grinder was never the same, it never ground as fine as some people who do the hack say that it does and after i did this hack, my grinder moved from not changing the grind size, to grinding very inconsistently and its was grinding French press course grind when i had it set for Espresso fine. How i fixed mine, was to adjust the plastic mount that holds the inner burrs and the white plastic grind adjustment dial. This was very tricky because if you try to get the white dial into the correct position with the little red dot that shows you when the grinder is calibrated, then try to move the inner burr mount, this also moves the white adjustment dial out of position. So i needed to adjjst the inner burr mount all the way until the inner burrs were at their closed position, but kind of hold the white adjustment dial at an angle so it would not move, then also adjust that dial until it was calibrated again...... yes i think that while you are reading this, you are very confused haha. It was an absolute headache, but i did manage to get the grinder working again and the grinder was grinding fine on the Espresso setting and course on the course setting to pretty much what is was before i did the hack. I still have the video's that i made while i was fixing the grinder and i might edit them and post them so you can actually see a little better what i am trying to discribe.

@@mightymightyironhead will wait for your upload. thanks.

Pat its the only reason that i made the video. I still cant remember how i did it and i also need to refer to my own video haha