1Zpresso JX Pro calibration and "quick calibration" guide
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- čas přidán 18. 11. 2022
- The 1Zpresso JX-Pro is an excellent grinder, however the calibration continues to be a little confusing for quite a few people.
I wanted to make a quick video showing the method that 1Zpresso recommends and also a kind of "quick hack" method that i like to use and think is a little faster and easier than the 1Zpresso method.
Fantastic! Now I dont have to remove the adjustment dial! THANK YOU!
You are very welcome.
Thanks for this! I used the 1Zpresso method to get close and then your “hack” to dial it in. Was so helpful. 👍👍
Hi Derek, thanks for checking out the video, really happy that it was useful to you.
This video was very helpful, thanks a lot!
Thank you, really happy that it helped.
Great information. Thank you.
Tim you’re very welcome.
Thanks! Your method is far easier!
Robin you are very welcome.
Very helpful! Cheers!
Very welcome, happy it helped.
very helpful!👌
Happy it helped.
Good content thanks
You are very welcome, happy that you find it useful.
They must have recently changed what you call the thumb nut. Now it has 2 holes on top to use a spanner wrench or snap ring pliers to tighten and loosen it.
Hi Richard. 1Zpresso changed the thumb nut about one year ago, as you point out it did not used to have the two indents in the top of the nut.
I asked 1Zpresso about this at the time and they confirmed that it was not a new feature and that it was simply something that was added at the manufacturing stage for the factory, like some kind of tooling guide.
I cant really see any situation where you would need a tool to tighten the thumb with a tool, however the thumb nut can be very tight to get open when the burrs have been over tightened due to excess form while calibrating the grinder and perhaps, like you say, these two indents could be useful if you have the correct tool to then loosen the thumb nut to then release the burrs.
When I calibrated mine I could hear some scratching noise inside. Did I screw something too tight?
Sorry can i ask you for a little more information?
Just to be clear, are you saying that you dismantled the grinder, then you reassembled the grinder and zeroed (burrs fully closed) then you opened the burrs to the grind setting for your brew and when you turn the grind handle you can hear scratching (scraping) inside the grinder?
If you dont have any obvious damage to your grinder like dropping the grinder, or damaging the burrs, i dont think that there is an issue with your grinder and the issue is something more simple.
When you reassemble the grinder properly, there should be no sounds coming from inside the grinder (apart from the coffee beans being ground up).
There should also be no sound from the burrs making contact with anything inside the grinder (like the outer burrs) when you are grinding beans, because the burr shaft is very solid and stable and the these grinders don't have any wobble or movement from the burr shaft when you turn the grind handle, so i don't think that's a problem.
If you are turning the grind handle without any beans inside the grinder and there is a scratching or a scraping sound, is there any resistance when you turn the grind handle? does it feel like the handle does not turn freely and smoothly?
It is possible that you have not assembled the grinder properly, so check if all the parts are assembled the correct way.
1) Check that the both the outer burrs and the top ring are tightened properly.
2) Check that the burrs shaft is pushed up fully and the thumb nut is screwed completely, if you dont push the burrs up properly from below, you wont be able to tighten the thumb nut completely.
3) The spring of on the burrs shaft properly (the spring need to be placed on the shaft with the wide opening facing up and the narrow opening facing down.
4) The baring disc is placed on the burr shaft the correct way (the disc should have the side with the ridge facing up, because this covers the baring cap when you place the burr shaft back into the grinder body.
I suspect that one or more of the parts of the grinder are not assembled properly and this is causing the issue, so make sure that all the parts are assembled and tightened properly.
Lifesaver
Hello. Can you please tell me how many bearings this coffee grinder has?
Hi Valery. The JX-Pro has two stabilising bearings on the top surface of the top ring, these two bearing are located under the adjustment dial when it is screwed on and they obviously stabilise the adjustment dial.
All the 1Zpresso grinders also have a small top bearing ring that sits between the top bearing cover and the screw column. This small top bearing is enclosed, so its not possible to see how many small bearing are inside, however i assume that you are not referring to this small top bearing ring and the other two bearings under the adjustment dial.
@@mightymightyironheadThanks
Mine seems wayyyy out of wack. It continuously lands on 7 or 9 and I just can’t seem to get it to zero. Idk what I’m doing wrong
It seems a bit odd that the adjustment dial number keeps landing on the 7 or 9, if you have dismantled the grinder and reassembled the grinder, the adjustment dial number is usually random.
Anyway lets try and figure out what's going on.
I am assuming that you have followed my video and it did not work for you?
If you have followed the video and it still does not work, i would check the threads in the middle of the adjustment dial and both the sliding column and the thumb nut, sometimes the threads can get damaged.
Its unlikely that they are the fault, but if they are damaged ask your dealer to send you a replacement part, its usually free.
Then check to see if the thumb nut is completely tightened. When you are reassembling the grinder you really need to push up with the burrs at the bottom and hold them while you turn the thumb nut completely until it cant turn anymore, this holds the burr shaft at its correct position and you need to do this for the adjustment dial to also be in its correct position when you screw that on.
Again its unlikely that this is the fault, but its really work doing this anyway for your grinder to work properly and the grind adjustments to be accurate.
Sometimes the outer burrs and also the top ring can become a little loose, so check that they are tightened correctly.
If you have not followed followed my video and you have not calibrated your grinder.
Make sure that everything is assembled correctly and is tight, push up the burrs so that the thumb nut is tightened properly.
Then zero your grinder by turning the adjustment dial all the way clockwise until the burrs are fully closed.
If the number is on 7 or 9, you then need to take the adjustment dial back off and turn the thumb nut and turn the thumb nut counter clockwise a few clicks then replace the adjustment dial and see what you have, so this until the number is in the starting position.
I honestly dont think that the grinder is damaged, i have sold thousands of 1Zpesso grinders and i have never had anyone with an adjustment dial stuck on the same numbers, so i am almost 100% sure that this is either something is loose or the grinder has not been assembled correctly.
Anyway please update me and let me know if this is any help.
mine is always at 3.5. I've done everything all these videos say. The only way to truly adjust mine is to loosen the thumb nut under the dial a few clicks. Nobody mentions how loose their upper ring cap is which shows the stationary gray dot. So, if you loosen it a bit you can change where the gray dot lines up with the click dial.
I don't understand how turning the burr could effect the calibration?
It does not really effect the calibration. The grinder is calibrated when the burrs are fully closed (zero point) and the number that you have at the starting position does not need to be the 0 number, it can be any number that you have when the burrs are tight (zero point).
There are threads on the inside of the burr shaft and the thumb nut and when you tighten the thumb nut all the way to its tightest point, it keeps the burrs in the correct position.
So when you move the burrs slightly its just kind of changing the point where the adjustment dial stops turning because you have allowed it a tiny bit more of the threads space to play with and the adjustment dial can move a little more before it becomes tight again.
When you follow the 1Zpresso method, they recommend that you take off the adjustment dial and adjust the thumb nut by opening it, this method allows you to be able to tighten the adjustment dial a little more also by giving you slightly more threads to use, so its kind of the same thing.
@@mightymightyironhead Ohy yea, after reading your comments and re-watch the video. I think I'm getting how it work now. Thanks
@@kornigsegg its really all about the threads on the burr shaft and the adjustment dial.
Even when the thumb nut is at its tightest position, you can very slightly move the burrs left or right when you open the adjustment dial slightly, as i show in the video, because when you tighten the adjustment dial again after moving the burr shaft, it seems to give you a little more thread space to work with.
It can take a couple of goes to get the hang of it, but i use this method all the time and it works perfect for me.
Too be honest, the 1Zpresso method is also pretty quick if you dont mind taking the adjustment dial off and on a couple of times.
6:26 is second way of calibration
Yes thats correct.
I wish I'd found this video 4 hours ago 😂
Hi Rhyse.
Hope that the video helped you out. Trying to figure out that JX-Pro calibration can be a painful experience, please feel free to message me if you need any further help with the grinder.
I have to turn my Thumb nut 8 times to calibrate to zero. that's a lot
Thats normal and nothing to worry about.
The amount of clicks you need to turn the thumb nut depends on where your zero number falls when your burrs are full closed.
If your burrs are fully closed (zero point) and the zero number is at the left side of the grey dot on the top ring. you will only need to turn the thumb nut enough clicks to allow the adjustment dial to move around further until the zero number is at the top.
For example, your burrs are full closed and the zero number is at the number 9 position, you only need to open the thumb nut a couple of clicks to bring the zero number around.
If your burrs are full closed and the zero number is at the number 6 position, you will then need to open the thumb nut more clicks to bring the zero number into position, obviously the further the zero number is away from the starting position, the more clicks you will need to open the thumb nut.
If your burrs are full closed and the zero number has landed just past the grey dot on the top ring and is at the number 1 or 2 position, then you will need to open the thumb nut quite a few clicks to all the adjustment ring to turn enough so that the zero number can move all the way around and into the starting position, this is normal.
Just show us how to calibrate the damn thing that you are demonstrating instead of talking about other grinders that you are not demonstrating. Geez. And set the grinder on a table rather than jiggling it around in your hand for 10 minutes.
Wow.... such ingratitude.
For your information George, this video was not meant to be a high budget movie, it was simply meant to show my customers and anyone else who is having issues with the calibration for the JX-Pro how to do that, which is obviously what led you here to be super critical and rude.
To make this video i needed to pay for everything myself, then take time out of my business, again at a cost, because i have a thousand other things that i could be doing with my time, but i choose to make video's that might help even a few people and i dont get paid for that.
So if you think my video is so bad, please go somewhere else and insult and criticise them for not being 100% to your liking, or you could also figure it out yourself, its really not that difficult and then make your own video and post it on CZcams for other ungrateful people like yourself to complain about.