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@@collyernicholasjohn I happy with it 😁

This was from a compression tester kit. It comes with the PSI gauge with the pressure release button on it and a quick conect fitting on the end. It comes with a hose where one side connects to the gauge and the other side connects to different sizes adaptors to fit different sizes of spark plugs holes in your engine. the Royal Enfield size is 10mm . To use it you take out your spark plugs, thread in the hose with the correct size of spark plug hole to adaptor has a O ring to get a good seal. You then turn on Ingiction hold the throttle wide open for the test and hold the starter button down till gauge needle stops moving and the gauge show you the PSI of your engine. Normal PSI of the 650 or the 350 is 175 PSI if it reads less you could have a issue with your motor. As your engine gets older and the milage get bigger it can loose some. Also if you have a mutiable cylinder bike they shouldn't be much a a difference between cylinders .If there is this could be a problem in your engine with valves or piston rings. Your suppose to warm up the engine before the test which I forgot to do, what that does is the piston ring heat up and expand in the bore to seal better so that # PSI should go a little higher. The compression tester can be found on Amazon this is where I go mine from (LINK) hope that answers your question this is the first time I performed the compression test ever I was just curious on how I did putting this engine back together. very pleased to find out it's perfect 🙂www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLH5W2BX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

LOL no they're not that fragile , fins are 4mm thick and the hammer only weight 230 grams. I painted the cyclinder head black before I put it back on the bike. Later I took a dremmel tool and took off the paint only on the edge of those fins for a even more custom look that is on video as well.

Glad the video helped you did you drill out the damper rods as well or just made adjustments to the emulator.🙂

​@@johnk7814 I had the YSS kit in the forks for the previous 2 years undrilled, the ride was harsh and no improvement at all. I did a lot of research about drilling or not, your video was the one that tipped me over into the drill it camp. As of last week my damper rods now have 4x 8mm holes (that’s from info I found in a YSS information PDF) and your cartridge tuning tips. Thanks again, Martin.

Hey Alan these are from Motone Customs in the UK. They come like these in Black and Gold or all silver or all black. You can order them direct from them or there are a couple of places in the US that carry them Westerncycles.com in Texas or baxtercycles.com. They are very well made CNC machines pieces mine are a little faded now after years. they are not LED but have high quality OSRAM bulbs that have not any issues still going and bright.😀 they also come with two lens amber and clear for each .

Sure is it’s made by Royal Enfield the seats are interchangeable between the two since they have the same frame. 😁

Hey well the bars in the video are LSL street low I believe which at this time are sitting on the work bench I'm tring out another set not that those weren't good they are very comfortable I just wanted to try these 5 piece copy of bars that were on the Italian bike Laverta Jota. The master cylinder is a Brembo RCS 15 very nice had them on there for years now, no other changes to the brakes as of yet. Thinking of getting at Beringer 4pot caliber that woulf fit directly on the fork without any special braket or change to the disc. Cheers John K

@@johnk7814 Thanks for the prompt reply. I intend to go the radial MC route myself, but would like a four pot caliper upgrade too. Do you know if any of the 4 pot Brembos would be suitable? :)

@@captainklutz3427 I've seen on Facebook guy sells a bracket to mount a 4 pot brembo but you have to change the disc as well don't remember which Royal Enfield group I saw it on or which model caliper it was.

@@johnk7814 Thanks, John. Yes, I saw that thread. It was on the Hitchcock's forum. I am hoping for a straight swap out, but have yet to find anything suitable & affordable. :0/

You are correct David all friction plates on the Rekluse clutch go into the long slots. I assumed it was the same but nooooo🤭 what happens if you do is the sleeves won't stay flush with the bottom of the basket.. It's nit a hard kit at all to fit make sure all gasket material from old one is removed or maybe you'll get lucky and yours won't stick and can reuse . One thing I will telll you is Neutral is a little different to get in .The OEM is very forgiving, with the Rekluse and the aqdded plates shifting up and down very smooth as long as it is adjusted right but Neutral whn the bike is running the bike mostly has to be moving for it to go in. So when your coming to a stop and you want to put in in neutral give yourself room before your going stop the bike rolling in 1st to get it in other than that it's working perfectly .

@@johnk7814 so all the friction plates in the same slots.

@johnk7814 thank you for your quick reply really appreciated as I am doing this, this week I didn't realise at first you was the person who replied 😊 .

Yes that is a mistake when using the Rekluse I later cuaght that and put all the fiction plates in the large slots. It is correct for the stock but not the Rekluse. I made another video about changing the clutch cable and opened up the cover again and went through what happens inside when you put the clutch lever. Good catch sir 👍

I can tell you that the reason they say to put all of fiction plates in the large slots is because if you don't those baske sleeves will move towards the outside no longer sitting flush with the bottom on the slot. as for how it works I had issues's with getting it adjusted right I had smooth up shifts but not so coming back down. some of that might be because of nor having them in the right place or I realized my cable I bought from Venhill the stadard lenth was about 3-4 inchs too long for the bars I have on the bike.When the cable came down the frame it dipped below the top of clutch cover bend up again. It also moved on me and sliced the outer part of cable 😡 brand new one too. I bought anthor cable from Venhill but it's one you cut to lenth and after that thihs cutch is flawless now very smooth up and down BUT the problem you have with neutral I have as well must be something that the 3 extra plates in the pack must cause.🙂 You just have to get used to it , the bike has to be moving when the engine is running to get it in neutral. So when you come up to a light and you want to shift into neutral get in there before you stop.😂 When the bike is not running there's not much problem in getting it in neutral. But I do like the clutch now the stock one I guess is made to be very forgiving compared with the upgradeed one.

Gary I had gotten it from EBAy from vender vehemencehub24x7 but there are others selling the sane thing ,it made by the outfit ADspares. I offered 125.00 and they accepted it but you'll see some much more for the same thing. I did have to drill the 5mm holes to use the RE cowl bolts though. 🙂 you can serch EBay with this Double Seat Cowl Black & Chrome For Royal Enfield GT Continental 650cc and you should see many of them.

There are many sellers in India with different prices I offered $125.00 and they accepted . put this in search and you should find them Double Seat Cowl Black & Chrome For Royal Enfield GT Continental 650cc. It's nice but not perfect but you have to look very close to see them , slight imperfections back right you can tell it's under the chrome plating, also it doesn't come with the holes from the Royal ENfield cowl bolts I had to drill them .It's made by AE Spares in India. the seller I got it from is vehemencehub24x7

Nice! Be good to see part three of the high Comp installation and your thoughts on the changes

@@collyernicholasjohn Your right I really need to finish up those video's 😔

Raul The resistor plugs for either one don't have markings on them but if I use a multi meter on them I get 2.2 volts or 4.7 k ohms on the AIS plug. And 2.5 volts or 9.8 k ohms on the Evap resistor plug. I hope that helps you.🙂

@@johnk7814 Hi John, thanks for replying. I'll create a home solution and post the result.Thanks again.

You can hook this up and still keep the key ignition as well . The way I hooked it up I can return it back very quickly you'll see when the install video comes out. The bike sounds different then it did before the engine work.🙂

It's a citrus cleaner degresser from a company caled Chemical Guys .

Thanks Hans🙂

Thank you very much 🙂

Glad to hear it 😁

Do you mean instructions from YSS? How many holes and what sizes do they advise?

@@castleclubclipz Yes, I mean the instructions from YSS. The YSS instructions in the Australian kits have the drill instructions with sizes and photos. Its and easy google search the good Aussies have scanned and shared them. I'd hate to try to tell you the size off of memory.

@@Thinwater Hmm thanks! I’ve been trying to find the online, but no luck… You wouldn’t happen to have the link you could post, would you? Warm regards and thanks for your help!

@@castleclubclipz I've replied twice and find no evidence of it. So here is a try without a link. Go to YSS Australia, support, fork kit adapter, click on the instructions.

Not posted yet but will get to it .🙂

Cool now that weather is warm again I wore mine the other day 😁

No it wasn't that bad and I did film it I just have to edit the video's. 🤭

Don't worry about it Paul it wasn't necessary just me wanting to know where it was before I took it apart. It ends up in the same pace anyway. 😁

I don't believe so but it has been a few years now that I got them. Maybe some protective applied to the leather, and it came in the blue and white Halcyon box. 🤔 I went on there website just now and it looks legit they even have the bar end mirrors as well.

Thanks. They actually responded immediately too. I am noticing that it dissipates quickly. Maybe it's just that "new car" smell. I have no reservations about the seller. Be Well.

It just a 5mm bolt from action camera mount. They can be found on Amazon just search action camera thumb screw and you'll find many of them.😁

Yes there is 2004 had since new.😁

The motor will run but you should get a power commander 6 or the powertronic piggy back ECU to handle fueling and in the case of powertronic it does ignition as well . I’m putting in a power commander . You need the two gaskets as well the base gasket and the cylinder gasket .and the chain tensioner gasket as well.

@@johnk7814 Thanks John im looking forward to seeing the progress on your engine plus how you find the new setup in comparison to standard Ive seen a youtube video of a standard compression 650 with just the s&s cam swap and the rider was very impressed with the way the motor pulled

No need to make all the changes I’ve made but suspension 🤔🤔that really makes a difference how the bike handles . You have the same tires 😳 I didn’t find anything wrong with stock tires I wore them out though and the next set as well I’m on the third set 😁.

Only if you are up grading to S&S Cam and or upgrading the pistons to High Compression otherwise it's not needed.

Christian I just use a good gear oil 75W-90 or 80W 90 , can get some from the auto part store around 10 dollars in change which will last you probably two years or more 🙂 if you oil your chain about every 3 hundred miles or when it looks dry. wipe off the excess after you oil it . so much cheaper then buying a spray can at twice the price and buying a few cans through out the year.

They are what is used on the 350's but fit the 650's as well.

@@johnk7814 Look like the ones on my new Super Meteor.

They are the one's that came on the 350's but if they look like yours on the 650 super I'd say they must be using them on them as well now.😁

Yes it would , I wanted to take the engine out to make access easier but don't have the special tools to remove the rear mounts that have the frame adjusters in them.😣 but I'll do it anyway 4 hands instead of two would help too.😁