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Are you sure your goggles were successfully rooted? Do you have anything else open in the background that could be trying to access the goggles (such as the dji app or even the wtf webpage)?

Correct, the idea is all the same. What is different though is the durability of the glass and the mounting mechanism.

Thanks! Happy flying!

I came from a station that had an encoder wheel, I actually like the buttons more now. I usually only need 3 temperatures anyway so the buttons let me get there fairly quickly.

Good to hear!

Try turning off the DJI HDL (SBUS Baud Fast). Some have reported that they weren't able to get this working. I never had any problems but you can start there.

Welcome. Check out the follow up videos as well for the ultimate sleeper mod.

Agree. I bought this during the great GPU shortage so this was the only way to get a GPU without a crazy mark up.

The v2 goggles are still a great option. You're really just missing out on two main features: the ability to embed the OSD into the goggle video recording and the OLED displays.

Easier yes, but I like the power lead to come out the front so that I can zip tie it to a standoff for strain relief in a crash (makes it more difficult for them to pull off the board in a crash).

Interesting idea, I'll have to try. Thanks!

i have speedybee405 v4 I selected msp on uart1 and not working. I swapped the pins rx and tx on the o3 connector to the FC and still the same. im stucked

@@rondridealmeria Can you send me some pictures of how you have the O3 wired up on the flight controller? If you are not getting the drone's voltage on the goggles, usually that's a wiring issue.

@@Mangorille the funny thing is that the wiring goes to the FC to the dedicated connection and the pin order is right. Just sorted a couple of days ago, apparently Tx or Rx pins were not contacting into the DJI connector. Thanks for your reply!

If you are running betaflight 4.4 or later you no longer use those commands. Check out the pinned comment. If you are using a version before 4.4, correct set to 0 if using uart 1.

Goggles 2 and Goggles Integra can record the Betaflight OSD in the Goggle recording. You need to turn on a setting, I can't remember the exact name but it's something like Goggle View Recording.

Check out Joshua Bardwell, he has a bunch of setup tutorials for betaflight. Tuning wise, I use PIDToolBox: czcams.com/video/dnVW6agh_u4/video.html

The RF shielded areas aren't fully sealed to begin with and there are areas of the unit not covered by the RF shields. But yes, making it naked could impact the durability given that the components are more exposed. I haven't had any issues yet and I crash all the time in wet grass.

It's not clear to me. The specs say Betaflight but the manual shows INAV as a firmware type in the screenshots. I'd suggest logging a ticket with Speedybee to confirm before purchase. They're fairly responsive.

yes perfect under INAV 7.1

Check out my build video, I've got my Betaflight configuration and PIDs there for a 4s with 1404 and 1604 motors.

Been a while since I used this remote given my experience but don't recall this being a big issue. I had other issues that perhaps overshadowed.

@@Mangorille It has plenty other other small issues as well, but for me the fact it won't stay planted is a deal breaker. It works great with the Avata but not a fan of using it with the 5" freestyle I recently built.

@@J_Madison Ya, invest in your favorite ELRS controller and never look back.

@@Mangorille my thoughts as well. The Boxer Max by Radiomaster is looking mighty tasty!

Nope, there are no front and rear jack points like on a traditional car. To do it safely you need one of those shop jacks that lift the car from all four jack points simultaneously. Having said that this guy has done it at home but did say that his jack points were damaged. teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/how-to-get-your-model-3-on-jack-stands-without-any-special-tools.261835/

@@Mangorille Thanks man. But the former drifter in me won’t allow me to “balance” the car in that way. It looks like once the front and rear aero covers are removed there’s a plethora of subframe to safely lift the front or rear (Model Y). That will free up the jack points for the 4 jackstands. Looks like the lower control arms inward pivot points are potential targets as well. Can’t see it too well from other videos but the covers are probably on them. But you can either drive up on some wood and or traditional ramps and access the aero covers. I like using wood or a nice rubber pad on my floor jack. It really depends on the vehicle. Cheers

@@vqdriver I agree, that is just asking for something to twist. On a conventional car, I would find a middle back (usually differential) and middle front (usually cross member) jackpoint and use those, of course doesn't apply to Teslas.

The pids you see in the video is on a 4s setup. You can also find the betaflight configuration file in the video description.

Your best bet is to ask on the DJI forums. I don't intend to purchase the controller 3 after my experience with the controller 2.

​@@Mangorillewhy what was wrong with your experience with the controller 2?

Correct, I rely more on the rpm filter. You can have the sliders all the way to the right if your quad is mechanically sound and not very noisy. If unsure, start with the filters in the middle default position.

How exactly does it twitch and under what sort of maneuvers?

@@Mangorille i have these twitches, if i take off and the Copter does go with the back to the left side clockwise. During flight, you can also clearly see these twitches through your glasses. I suspect I have a bad gyro. I will now test your dump and see if the flight behavior changes. Without a propeller, the motor tab looks inconspicuous. The motors spin up smoothly without any failures. Really weird

@@SaschaMittag Without the props on, do you feel any weird vibrations when you spin up the motors? If you put all the bars at one point on the motors tab, do all the motors show roughly the same rpm (you'll need bi-directional dshot turned on for this)?

@@Mangorille no weird vibrations, i changed to Bluejay and Set the Pids and Filters to default. The copter Flow better. I will try your Set up again and give you a reply.

You want a firmware that has bi-directional dshot. Either blheli32 if supported or bluejay.

@@Mangorille i have the Same Stack with the new Bosch Gyro . ESC are jh40. Bluejay is possible

@@SaschaMittag Definitely get bluejay on there.

Thanks buddy!

@@Mangorille Keep it up! You are great!

Thank you!

Someone posted that he was able to remove and turn the plastic guide on the power supply board around vs. changing the connector. I haven't tried that so use at your own risk.

@@Mangorille interesting, i got it working anyway, I made a mistake and used the Noctua 80 x 25mm fan instead, the connectors and that one were a bit strange so I swapped them for JST connectors which worked, now its all silent! Did your hotend build as well, appreciate all the hard work that goes into these videos

@@srn2529 Welcome. Surprised you were able to fit a 25mm fan in there.

I realised my mistake and mounted the fan to the outside haha, will probably use the slim line fan in the future

@@swm2058 It will function the same but just won't look as nice. Make sure you don't get your fingers in there.

Thanks! I use some strong double sided tape (the 3m outdoor stuff from Home Depot).

Which goggles are you using?

goggles integra @@Mangorille

@@Mangorille I use goggles integra

@@meyertom8224 Perfect, that combination is compatible. Did you make sure to update the firmware of all devices to the latest? Try not using the DJI HDL (baud_fast).

@@MangorilleI checked and installed the latest versions. But nothing to do it doesn’t work

Try the instructions in the video below. Make sure to look at the pinned comment. czcams.com/video/KIis4hB_duQ/video.html

The memory thermal pads are those big pads you see at 5:41.

It's in the video description under the Google Drive link: drive.google.com/drive/folders/14xyzppb9fjyYitphgOLYwNKKh7vHqJq4

I thought so too initially but I find it works fine when in the preset mode. I understand the new version will have the encoder wheel again.

@@Mangorille yeah I think I will wait for that one, sometimes you can over-complicate things. often physical controls are the quickest way. for me if I'm designing something I ask myself, is it quicker and more user-friendly to do it this way, yes or no, if not then it is a worse solution imo.

@@squidgyrock For sure, it is way more intuitive to just spin an encoder.

@@Mangorille The original FX888 did not use a rotary encoder. Was an old fashioned potentiometer. Which worked fine IMO. Simple is better.

@@acoustic61 Never had any issues after many many years.

If under 250g is not a priority, go with 1604 motors and 6s. The reason I ask about 250g is that most small 6s battery packs (say under 600mah) start to lack in performance (e.g. high internal resistance).