Rolex Explorer Review: A Complete Evolution of The New 36mm and Old | Bob's Watch Talk Ep. 6
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Welcome back to another installment of Watch Talk! This week, we’re discussing an impressive collection of Explorer watches. Shop pre-owned watches here: www.bobswatche...
The Explorer joined the Rolex catalog in the 1950s, shortly after Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary became the first men to successfully reach the summit of Mount Everest. Since that time, the iconic mountaineer’s tool watch has become a cult favorite, both for its modest design and attractive price point.
Like other professional series Rolex watches, the Explorer features a waterproof Oyster case and a Perpetual movement. What sets its apart from many models in the brand’s portfolio is the time-only dial and smooth bezel instead of a rotatable bezel like the GMT Master II or Submariner.
The watch has adhered to a simple design code for decades, featuring a 36mm case, a time-only dial, and an all-steel finish. That all changed in recent years. Join us today as we dive deeper into the intriguing watch’s evolution and show off some truly exceptional Explorer watches that are in stock and ready to purchase now.
Explorer 36mm ref. 114270: 2001 - 2010
Reference 114270 was the last iteration of the 36mm Explorer, produced from 2001 to 2010 before being discontinued and replaced with the 39mm edition. Of course, that all changed in 2021 when Rolex re-introduced the beloved 36mm Explorer. Reference 114270 has remained the grail watch of many for the past decade, just for its classic case size alone.
Side-by-side, ref. 114270 closely resembles its predecessor, ref. 14270, with the biggest difference between the two watches being the movement that beats within the case - the 6-digit reference runs on the cal. 3130 Perpetual movement. Both feature a sapphire crystal over the dial, a smooth bezel, and the iconic 3/6/9 dial configuration.
Explorer 39mm ref. 214270: 2010 - 2021
Reference 214270 was the first Explorer to feature a larger case size, measuring 39mm in diameter. While this was an exciting addition to the brand’s catalog, many were left a bit disappointed by the design of the dial, which almost appeared to be an oversight by Rolex. Early examples featured white gold Arabic numerals and Mercedes hands that almost seemed too short for the larger case size. This dial option is referred to by loyal Rolex fans as the Mark I, or MKI, dial.
In 2016, Rolex revamped the dial to feature longer hands and fully lumed Arabic numerals to match the baton hour markers. This dial option was given the name Mark II or MKII. Aside from the dial, reference 214270 also features a newer movement in the form of the cal. 3132, complete with Rolex’s high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.
Explorer 36mm ref. 124270: 2021
That brings us to 2021 and the brand new Explorer lineup. As we already mentioned, the fan-favorite 36mm Oyster case is back in its purest form, featuring an all-steel finish, an Oyster bracelet, and a classic Arabic and baton dial. It also features quite a few upgrades that set it apart from its 36mm predecessor, ref. 114270.
To start, the hour markers are noticeably larger on the 2021 edition. The space between the lugs has also changed with ref. 114270 featuring 20mm between lugs and the newer-model ref. 124270 measuring 19mm between the lugs. This change affects the bracelet, with links that taper away more dramatically from the narrower lugs.
Inside the watch, the Explorer ref. 124270 utilizes Rolex’s newest time-only movement - cal. 3230. It boasts an upgraded Chronergy escapement, a longer 70-hour power reserve, and an accuracy of up to -2/+2 seconds per day.
Explorer 36mm ref. 124273: 2021
For the first time in Rolex history, the Explorer is offered in a metal finish other than stainless steel. The brand’s proprietary two-tone finish - patented “Yellow Rolesor” - pairs 904L-grade Oystersteel with 18k yellow gold. It steps into the realm of precious metal without offering an all-gold watch outright, which also honors the Explorer’s roots as a tough, ready-for-anything mountaineer’s tool watch. On the other hand, it also brings a level of versatility to the collection for anyone who loves the Explorer’s simplicity and craves a slightly flashier watch.
Which Explorer featured in this video is your favorite? Do you prefer traditional all-steel, or is the newer Yellow Rolesor option a refreshing addition? Does 36mm or 39mm appeal to you more? Let us know in the comment section below!
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Love the switch to the classic 36. For those that don’t need to tell the rest of the world they own a Rolex and appreciate something that doesn’t bash, catch, and snag their surroundings, it’s perfect. Down to the new, fortified bracelet that’s more proportional to the watch itself and obviates the need for a shoebox of straps. For a bigger tool watch that doesn’t necessarily scream Rolex and can lighten the weight of steel by switching to a strap, get practically any Explorer II.
As someone who actually wears their 114270 for sport (tennis, climbing, skydiving, running, hiking etc), it baffles me when people want their sports watches bigger. Why? So it can get in the way, get snagged and weigh your wrist down lol.
The phrase “tool watch” is also getting thrown around to much. Just seems ironic coming from two guys wearing suits on a daily basis.
Most logical comment so far.
@@Linkstrete1 also wear my 114270 all day everyday and you’re spot on. One thing I love about the 114270 is the lume. I wear my watch sleeping bc I tend to wake up too early and as opposed to checking my phone which wakes me up I can check watch in dark and know if I should go back to sleep.
I wear 114270 and I love it but I do not blame people who wear classic sub with suit. I see them when I travel
Indeed the same applies to the military watches trend... knowing the military mostly wear Casio G-Shock on mission duties LOL
114270 all day. Perfect size for any occasion and doesn’t scream “I’m wearing a Rolex!”
You either get it or you don’t but Rolex made a bold decision to get back to the classic 36mm. I think the new 36mm is a much more balanced and refined. One of the most comfortable watches you would ever own. 19mm for the lug width is not a big deal as this watch should always be on the factory bracelet as it is truly a masterpiece.
There’s so much harmony between you three, each statement compliments what the other said. Well done on the excellent presentation. Could you please do a “deep dive” on the Sky-Dweller?
How have I only just found this channel?!?! LOOVE THIS! The explorer is sooo dang charming! 😍❤️❤️❤️
The most thorough talks of recent Explorer release!, Thanks Bob's Watches team for the talks! I am an avid fan of 114270 and it's the only watch I own at the moment. Very happy to see Rolex getting back to 36mm sizing, following its tradition, but still not convinced to move for the new one, 114270 still best for me!
19 lug width is better imo. Looks way more fluid and proportional. I don't really wear straps so I like the new lug width more
For me the new 36mm. The 39mm is a no-go due to my wrist size. Neither do I swap my straps so the 19mm bracelet is fine. The old 36mm may be better proportioned but that only flies at a side-by-side comparison. The technical improvements such as the new movement, better clasp and illuminated numerals as well as the fact the watch is factory-fresh make me decide for the 124270.
I am team 39mm all the way. It’s nice to see I am not the only one (the Bob’s Watches team clearly has good taste), and I am sad about the 39’s discontinuation. 39 is a great balance between large watches and tiny watches. It’s a very compact size on my 7.25” wrist (and 6’7” frame), bordering on too small, but classic in my mind. Rolex has FIVE sizes in the OP, yet will not give us more than one size in the Explorer? Give me a break, Rolex. Thanks for this in depth comparison between the models. I had not seen a video with so many variants compared.
So much thought and improvements have gone into the new 36. From the tapering of the bracelet to the enhanced dial features to the new movement all packaged in a classic size. The man wears the watch and not the other way around. I often wear a suit and my new Explorer complements perfectly.
The biggest difference between the 14270 and 114270 is the solid end links. The new 36 is better proportioned than the older version. However...
20mm on a 36 case looks very retro and more manly than the 19mm. Where as the newer clasp looks very feminine at only 14mm. Everyone loves the new 36 in pictures but when they try it on they all have problems trying to convince themselves that it's not a woman's watch. The date just 36 is much more chunky and unisex.
Thanks for the comparison. 39mm looks wrong. I sold mine. Love the new 36mm, but can't decide between this and some of the Oyster Perpetuals
Same dilemma. My solution was to get both the explorer steel 36 and a coral red in 36.
Going back to 36 is very much welcomed for many watch enthusiasts but at the same time, 19mm lug width is also a pet peeve for many watch enthusiasts. The new explorer I might be beautiful but they have toss that spirit of practicality behind the explorer, which had been part of the explorer line up for decades as a tool watch and also the main reason for its appeal out of the window. The new explorer I design is just being too caught up trying to be luxurious, the fact that they decided to release the first ever 2 tones said it all. Never in the past explorer I would have other versions, it was always one and only stainless steel explorer I. To me, 214270 and 114270 or older designs have the best of both worlds but not the currently release, it becomes just...another dress watch.
I had and sold the 39mm. Keep wondering if I made a mistake, but when I had it, 39mm as a size was fine but proportionally the bezel & dial just seemed off for me.
@@8rooks absolutely agree. 36mm is ideal
Thank you for high-quality review of Explorer. Glad to see the old and new line up of the model. Quite interested about the new 36mm Explorer, but I’m still enjoying wearing my 39mm one for literally every occasion.
Keep your 39. The new 36 explorer is nice, the 19mm lugwidth is a bit odd, true. But the real dealbreaker is the taper of the bracelet down to 14mm. Had it on my 16.5 cm wrist and it looks tiny.
Great discussion and video! I wear 34mm to 46mm watch on my 7.25 in wrist. For me, I select watch case size based on the style and purpose of the watch eg for dress watches 34 to 40mm, for sport/dive watches 38 to 44mm, pilot style watch up to 46mm. I owned the old 36mm explorer and love it. I tried the 39mm when it was introduced but it just does not look right on my wrist so I never get it. Now it’s back to 36mm and I’m torn between the steel or 2 tones. Eventually I decided to go with 2 tones as I already have the old 36mm steel version. Will be picking it up this weekend 🤗
Interested to know what it looks like on 7.25 as I'm the same. I keep reading reviews but I guess you need to just try the thing on!
I have smaller wrists and have watches that are 39-42mm in my collection currently. The 36mm represents something completely different for myself while remaining true to the original. 124270 is the next on my list!
The new Explorer 36 follows the proportions of a vintage AirKing.
It looks like that first 36mm one have a misaligned dial :O
The new 36mm is perfect. I sold my 39mm and bought the 36mm as soon as I got the call for one. These guys (Bob's watches) are crapping on the new 36mm, why? This is the watch many of us have been waiting for since 2010. The 39mm looks and wears more like a 40/41mm. It's disproportionate in design. Yes it's 39mm but a warped 39mm, large in all the wrong places, small in all the right places. This new version is far superior to the old 36mm & 39mm in every way. I do wish the new 36mm had 20mm lugs, but this is a Rolex. It's meant to be on an oyster bracelet. I don't mind the 19mm lug width. I did buy a 19mm Hodinkee black distressed leather strap, and it looks perfect. Just like an old 14270 on a cool distressed strap or NATO. 19mm straps are not that difficult to find. Just find a 19mm strap that tapers to 16mm/17mm at the buckle. I will say it's a pain in the a$$ to put the oyster bracelet back on. Also, the lug spring bars are placed towards the back of the lugs. So you will need a thin strap or NATO for it to fit. You will rub a leather strap on the edge because it sits close to the case. For now I'll keep it on its bracelet as intended. If you want to play with strap options. Stick to a Speedmaster or Panerai.
I was set on the new 41mm Submariner no date, and I still want one, but I will be going for the Explorer 36 first. This watch speaks to me in a way no other sub-39mm watch has.
It's not about fashion. It is a tool 36 rocks!
I like this format. Great discussion
I have had the 36 for about 6 weeks now. I'm definitely not a "big watch" guy at 6.75" wrist, but after wearing the 36 for a while, it feels too small. I tried it on a couple of different straps (19MM = pain in the butt as discussed in the video), but it seemed to make it feel even more undersized. For me, I think the sweet spot is 38-39; I have watches that are 40, 41, 42 (or even larger that I don't wear anymore), but a 39 feels great. Great move by Tudor to make the Black Bay 58 in 39. The black face on the bracelet or a silicon strap is my daily now. Great size; low key; under the radar; and comfortable to wear. Despite the "snow flake" hands (which I hated), i'm going to pick up the blue dial and the silver case because i love the size and feel of watch. As for the Explorer; I will choose my 39 over my 36.
This is a truly amazing watch.
People with tiny wrists constantly bashes the 39mm. It's tiring. I wear the 39 and on my 7 inch+ wrist it fits perfectly well. I am happy for the explorer to go back to 36 but I wouldn't trade my 39 for the world. Different folks, different strokes. No one is wearing the 39mm to show it off to the world. It is still a conservative enough watch. Just take the watch your number comes up on and be happy with it.
This episode went to a dark place...literally 🤣
I'll take the Tudor BB58 blue that guy was wearing over any of the Explorers! Sweet watch!!!!
Very good discussion…and yes the two tone was a huge blunder….they should have done it in an all gold…it could have been the least expensive all gold Rolex mens size with the smaller case and smaller heavily tapered bracelet. I bet in two years they’ll drop the two tone and go with an all gold. The new 36mm is also more unisex which would be another reason for an all gold version. Everose would be the smartest choice for Rolex as it harkens back to the time of the Explorer’s introduction.
39mm... bit of a moment for rolex where they were feeling size conscious. They also released the deep sea around that time too I think.
“A super hot steaming dump”
Rolex, put a micro adjust on all of your sport model bracelets please, it is a useful feature. If you can do it on the deep sea and the SD 43, you can do it on the ex and ex II.
I like the publicity that the explorer is getting with this new launch… it is a great watch but a bit forgotten under the Submariner’s shadow…
They should have just kept the two sizes. I really think that would have kept everyone happy! Surely Rolex could have made that happen?
Exact. What kind of men wear girls' size watches?
Exactly! They have 5 sizes of OP, but only one Explorer size? Seems a bit of a miss.
A big part of Rolex's business come from speculators that hope certain watches get discontinued and spike in price. They gave them exactly that when getting rid of the exp39.
Before saying the 36 is too small. Try it on and look in the mirror. You’ll be surprised. Thanks for the review!!
i tried on the 124270 at an AD today on my flat shaped 7" wrist and i thought i pulled it off really well. If i stare at it point blank near my face it seems small but thats because it is compared to every other watch i have. Zoomed out or in a full length body mirror it looks great. Needless to say I pick it up tomorrow. I dont care its a 19mm lug width because none of my watches ever come off the bracelet.
124270 is THE way to go! The only drawback is the massive taper to 14mm. 19mm lug width is acceptable. The overall package is a well done and well made watch. 36mm watch case isn’t small.
Tried on the new 36 at an AD last week. Great size, looks very well proportioned on the wrist, quality bracelet with tight tolerances, good balance and a very comfortable weight.
Happily add one to my collection, but sadly the two tone seems to be the only thing available at the minute.
You are a girl, right ?
Looking to buy a new one. Thanks for the video I needed an explanation of the evolution of this watch.
I think Rolex are testing the waters a bit with the 36mm. However, I expect larger a size to follow in future (likely 41mm). In the end, I think Rolex sees this a unisex option (Asian markets in mind on men’s side), but leaning toward ladies. A couple of reasons. 1. The way they launched this focusing on the two tone, with the steel version totally in the background. 2. The fact they bothered to make a different case to the new 36mm OP and went for 19mm lug width, significant taper and a smaller clasp, all point to this bring a ladies leaning model - an awesome ladies sports watch in my view whether steel or two tone.
I would add - a ladies leaning watch that a lot of guys will love to wear. This is a cool shift from the norm of a guys watch that lots of ladies also love to wear.
I agreed with you that a larger size will be coming in future. That how Rolex play the market.
Why does everyone hate this watch. The two-tone; algorithms. It’s perfect. It’s a tool watch.
For me, the 39mm is the perfect size and feel Rolex hit a home run with this size. Its also the perfect watch for every occasion and very discreet compared to the rest of there sports models.
124273, my absolute dream watch! I wish I could afford one.
Except that the new model with the 19mm lug width looks so much better proportioned than the 20mm, it always irked me on even a watch as good as the 1016 that the bracelet looks too wide for the watch head. Also there's loads of good 19mm straps and a 20mm nato generally looks fine on 19mm
Agreed, also 19mm lug makes the watch look a little larger, I think.
It does actually follow the proportions of a vintage AirKing, ie a tried and tested size.
I prefer my 114270 to the 39mm I had briefly, but am waiting for the call for the new one. Regarding the 19mm lug width, most 20mm straps will fit a 19mm lug width without issue.
Hey guys the 124273 is a first of a kind for the Explorer, I think it’s a great watch....Rolex rarely gets it wrong....it’s in massive demand in the UK.
Thanks for your vid, it helped me to decide on which Explorer to get. I opted for the new 36mm, it just fits better on my slender wrist. I have to agree, the gold accented one just doesn't work, at least for me. Mahalo!
Does 2021 model has laser etched crown??
The original sport watch was 36MM. Taking into consideration that the watch was going to be worn while actually doing things, and the 36MM does not get into the way on your wrist. But I do understand why you favor the 39MM as the tendency for larger wrist watches has grown. I do believe that that trend may be ebbing however.
The old bracelet's exploded.
You should show the 39 mm no lume, it’s part of the history!
36mm or 39mm?
It is all depends on your wrist size and body size.
does the $4.8k higher price difference of the 2-tone justify its gold content than the S/S? we may opt to choose the 2-tone than the hard to get S/S?
124270, gorgeous.
Explorer two tone is new classic
I`am 100 percent sure it will be a future classic. Like all Rolex models in the past wich were not liked as they came out.
36 is the perfect size for an unobtrusive sports watch imho. Is it just me or does the new 36 appear visually bigger/wider as a whole than the old 36?
Agree 👍
Never should of got rid of the 39mm. 36mm is just too small. 39mm and 40mm is the sweet sport for most people with averaged size wrists.
None of the pictures were in focus to see details of the dial.
This
There's no "one size fits all " so get whichever suits your preference. That said anything 39-41mm would most people.
New 36 is the best by far
The smaller 19mm kills the way the lugs flow into the bracelet. That taper is too drastic like the way the 39mm lugs taper into the bracelet. It makes the bracelet look too small. Despite the refinements, the way the 124270 looks is a no sale for me. I'm sticking to older 114270 .
All the professional models should be worn on the oyster bracelet, its perfect. I'm not a fan if seeing them on straps.
I like the concept of an good quality, classic, understated, daily, gada watch but as much as I respect rolex as a brand, I dont like the mercedes hands and the price of rolex.. I dislike the snobbishness associated with rolex. Also, a gada watch is suppose to be worn anywhere but rolex watches are dangerous to be worn in certain parts of the world. In this case, resale value = high risk value 😅
Hence, I bought a lorier falcon 3 instead. I think thats it. Its the real gada watch and has everything that I need in a mechanical watch. Wealth is not having an expensive watch. Real wealth is in fact when you dont need an expensive watch or when you dont need watches. Time to focus on what really matters in life.
15 min of discussing the size but no wrist shots to compare? Really? 🙃
I love the 36 mm explorer. Just classy.. Don’t get caught up in the recent trends of “modern” sports watches getting bigger, which just comes from a culture of bling and show off.. ugly.. Maintain a classy, personal taste of your own.
human beings did not become 7+ feet giants.. the last I checked we are still the same size humans as Ian Flemming, Sir E.P. Hillary(who was actually quite a big guy 1.90 - 1.95m)and countless others, no?
It is not small.. I am rocking it on my 7 inch wrist. Easy.. be cool with all that size thing.. relax ..
36 mm is the og explorer, og bond watch, and will always be.. ❤
Rolex should have put the Palm Frond dial on that two tone Explorer. Now, that would have been monumentally ugly!
I would say that Rolex is now focusing on Asia market. Asian will prefer 36mm due to smaller wrist. Also, 36mm is to target ladies to buy more of Explorer than Datejust.
For US, EU, etc. the 39mm to 41mm still sells well. So, this is Rolex strategy to ensure sales worldwide.
All said and done, for 50th Anniversary mark, the new releases are disappointing.
😂 the classic 36 is superior. It’s classic for a reason. 39 is a great size for the Sub, but this “supersize” trend feels like a fad. A Rolex doesn’t need to be noticed. The whole point is understated elegance and performance, not blinged out monster trucks that scream ROLEX.
13:17 finally saying it as it is, the bi metal is vile, plain and simple
@Richard Westwood good one, I’ll keep my 214270 mk2 thx
I don't think it's plain or simple - that's the problem
I really hope Rolex will release a men's version of the Explorer.
Lol you have some personal issues to work through eh
Nobody cares if their field watch has gold on it... unnecessary on the Explore. If it’s supposed to be a field watch, that gold is going scratch so quickly!
Time to get your strap on🤣
The guys keep talking over each other, interrupting, making their messages incomprehensible. Politeness, speaking in turn, is part of articulation. I’m done.
We're just excited to talk watches! We apologize that you found it disruptive. Cheers!
I thought you guys had a good watch conversation different strokes for different folk's
Thé new Explorer is out of stock 😡
Clearly none of you have any experience in Industrial Design. Your 4 Watch Side By Side SCREAMS for design comment and you all failed. The old school 36 lugs were perfect as were the dial proportions. The new watches have upgraded specs as you mention. I think an overview of where the Explorer fits in relation to the rest of the Rolex Sports Collection would have been helpful - the new reference is too close to the Sub.
Rolex always the same... new model????lol same but.....same
The 39 mm was a keeper, the rest are too small and especially the 19mm lug change is ridiculous. Rolex are an embarrassment to there decisions in eliminating the 39 mm.
🤡🤡🙍🏻♂️
The new explorer is too small for a women’s wrist🤣
They ruined the best watch in the lineup. 39mm Explorer was near perfect (only a glidelock option could have improved it).
This 36mm option with the tapered bracelet is a ladies’ delight.
Don’t @ me.
What is the point of this video, 3 numpty's talking about what they like and don't like about a watch they will probably never use for what it's made for.
Regardless, thanks for watching!