Episode 14: Suspension Tuning Settings | The Insider's Guide to Project CARS 2
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- čas přidán 19. 02. 2018
- Episode fourteen of the Insider's Guide to Project CARS 2 series, providing useful hints and tips, will be taking a look at the Suspension tab of the car setup menu. Breaking down the various adjustments that can be made to the cars Suspension setup, and tips on how to get the best out of the car for various tracks and weather conditions.
Jussi's Suspension Calculator: forum.projectcarsgame.com/show...
Music: www.epidemicsound.com/
F.O.O.L - Throne
Niklas Gustavsson - Some Kind Of Magic 3
Facebook: / yorkie065
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Project CARS Twitter: / projectcarsgame - Hry
6:30 Anti-roll bars.
17:10 Camber angle.
26:28 Ride height.
32:50 Spring rate.
So for bumpy, twisty slow tracks, reduce stuff. For smooth, flowing fast tracks, increase the stuff. Sorted.
Except for steering ratio, where it is the other way around.
It's finally here! More setup wisdom from Yorkie!
You can't believe how much you have helped me. It's just you explain it with out making me feel like a dumbass thanks can't wait for the damper section
Another great video!! Keep sharing your inside they help so much. Thanks Yorkie
Yorkie, your tips and this series has made a huge difference in how I understand what the game is telling my hands. Great advice, please keep it up!. Is there a chance we can maybe get a short guide to the drift cars or drifting the various cars on the edge of the tires?
Hello again Yorkie065, thanks for another so-awaited video on setups. Suspension, then Differentials and lastly Dampers are what make all the depth in setting up the car of PCARS2. I have a suggestion to do in this particular video though that I think that it could be improved even more. It's actually half the knowledge for anyone to watch this if they haven't gone through your telemetry tutorial before, so to anyone reading this I greatly suggest that someone works this in conjuction with telemetry. The best bet right now of how much grip you can get in a car comes from the side G forces you can achieve in different adjustments, so it would be amazing if this video could be more exampled. Like "let's try to find out where is that perfect sweet spot of aero and mechanical grip on a GT3 car to get the best grip overall" using the G Force meter and different suspension - camber - toe - antiroll combos. For an even deeper analysis than this one, it could also help to see, how adjusting these settings may affect the relation of oversteer or understeer. Dampers are much more simple since the calculators offer a good compromise to get stability and kerb hitting, while differentials are also adding up to grip offering options to adjust an oversteer & undesteer + grip margins & traction progression.
Great video and tips. Thank you.
Quality as always, thanks for taking the time once again for explaining some of the finer details... Still looking forward to the next installation "Dampers" I'd really love to find out how to ride the curbs with less impact on the cars performance like through the chicanes at Imola, Oulton park, Monza, Zolder etc. Often clipping the curbs just sends the rear into oversteer. Following a few ghosts, in time trial, this is where I lose a second or so as I don't seem to be able to attack the entry into the chicane with the same commitment which also effects the mid corner speed and exit as I can't maintain a higher speed through the whole corner. Basically I'm wanting to find out more about how to settle the suspension through extension and compression during the fast bumps without losing to much mechanical grip. Hope you can help Yorkie :-)
Woah.. tons to think about. Good in depth video
Thanks Yorkie!
This video is pretty helpful for sim racing in general.
Most tuning videos are, providing there isn't huge differences between one sim and another in terms of the presenting of data you're adjusting.
Thank you!
Many thanks
Amazing thx you
Thankyou !!!!
Hey man, great videos; thank you so much for making these videos. I was just wondering, when you say that ideally there should be a 5-10 degree difference in temp across the surface of the tire, is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Celsius.
Hi Maestro...awesome stuff again.
Question...can and will you explain in a next episode how to set up a proper field of view or do i missed this and did you do that allready?
So under the tab option-camera-field of view-movement
Thnx in advance and keep providing us with this learnfull stuff!!!😁😉
leaky arms hi thnx for sharing this link with me. Clear explanation!!!
Thank you from 2019 !
Btw, you do mean 10° Celcius right? When talking tire temps ?
What do you have your wheel DIR set at in the wheel calibration menu stage?
Can you put next time with subtitles?
It’s really hard to concentrate if you are not into English language.
But still thank you good job mate.
Great video on the suspension of the cars. Also, after the recent Project Cars 2 update I am still having "stuttering" or the severe missing of the engine of two of the BMW cars, the M6 and the Z4. This occurred on both Road America and Zolder tracks and as your coming out of a corner and trying to accelerate. I've adjusted the traction control but, both cars still stutter. I thought I read the update was suppose to correct this problem?? Strangely, this does not occur with other cars. Damage was turned off. Any help is appreciated.
Increase the 'Traction Control' Slip value in the Tuning Setup (Engine/ECU/Gearing page, right down the bottom) or in the ICM menu. Turning it up will allow for more wheel spin before the TC system kicks in.
I definitely prefer cars that have more oversteer. I like to find the absolute limit before I start losing the read end. I also use a steering ratio of 10... quite low!
Since everything affects everything else, what order of component do you tune first?
Each person has their own belief in the matter, but I have 1 method I've stuck with for any sim:
It's important to know the main rule for each subject to keep that "balancing factor" in place & simplified. So for me, I start with springs. Decide on how much speed the track will have, because this game does it right. The higher speed you have, the stiffer spring you will need. It does drastically affect the responsiveness of the car, but it must also react to any bumps you hit in a similar manner.
Without, going into sway bars too much, I actually jump to damping. The job of damping used to be to prevent the springs from rebounding, bouncing back and forth from any movement or bump. Nowadays, it can be quite easy to get carried away with, increasing it's strength to affect the handling in a positive way.
Of course, it does make most of the impact, but like Yorkie said; it's important to go back and check the camber and tire pressures. I've made a repetitive cycle in these 3 steps. The fast bump, is a bit new to me so I try to keep that to a minimum to take out the variables until later.
To me, it's absolutely vital to get the car balanced at the slowest corners for mechanical grip before aero work is done. It also makes it easier to soften everything and raise the height. This basically slows everything down so you can troubleshoot, and watch the telemetry closely and pinpoint cause and effect.
I like to go with steering angle, gear ratios, brake ducts and tire pressure. Then camber and toe settings anti-roll bars and ride height.
But then, it's important to know what your changes affect, too - for instance, lowering the ride height means you might have to decrease camber or wings (you might not need as much any more) or that you can soften the anti-roll bars.
Question about 19:46
When I'm aiming for thw temperature difference to be between 5 and 10 degrees from inside to outside, does that mean I have to make an asynchron setup for some tracks?
Because if I don't do that I can't get my left rear in that range while the other tires are fine.
Correct, but what you'll want to be careful of is taking away too much camber so that there isn't the grip in the corners that you need it. For instance you could have a high spread in temp, but there be one or two very high speed corners that put a lot of load through the tyre, and although it will give you a better temp spread and possible benefit in other corners, you could be taking away the camber you needed. It depends on the track of course and it's corners and the car, but asynchronous setups can be used at a number of tracks.
Like your videos can explain though why when I race in wet conditions my tires start to loose grip and change from dark green to light why is that?
So the colour indicates tyre temperature; green being optimal and about right, blue is cold, orange is starting to overheat and red overheating. Water in the wet conditions will cool off tyres, hence why you lose grip.
hello I have a problem with project cars 2.in going too options I want go too tuning setup when it comes up it freezes and I have too reset the game too play,i did the same again ,"TUNING SETUP" and the same thing happened.i wonder if you could help.thank you....
In general a softer spring rate wil increase mechanical grip, so will be beneficial for tracks with short sharp turns you say. But you also say that a harder spring rate will improve the responsiveness of the car, which also is beneficial for this kind of turns. Does a softer spring rate in this case outweigh the disadvantage of les responsive car?
It depends on the car really and how much downforce it produces / utilizes. What car is it you're trying to set up?
@@Yorkie065 I mostly use the Ferrari 488 GT3, but I'm also interested in the answer in general, because I drive different classes.
So for the GT3 cars, it can go either way depending on the track and how the car responds to the changes. Some will prefer a stiffer setup, some will prefer softer, but bare in mind that the bumpiness of the track will also have an influence as the car will feel better being stiffer on a smoother track, where-as a track that is more bumpy will need suspension that will absorb those bumps. Going to higher downforce cars like LMP's, you want to lean more towards the stiffer end to really maximize the downforce where possible as even at slow speed, you'll get some benefit from that when coming into and out of corners.
@@Yorkie065 thank you Yorkie. It's good to be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of a harder and softer spring rate. I will take this into account when trying different setups. Thanks for the advice!
Does a higher negative toe in angle also produce more heat in the tires as a smaller negative toe in angle?
It does yes as it scrubs the tyres (more with higher angles) across the track on the straights.
So I actually looked this video up to get camber angles right for Brands Hatch, which was specified as a good track to use asymetrical setup with here. I just feel like I'm doing something wrong though. The losses I'm getting from left hand turns far outweighs my gains in right hand turns, and it doesnt seem to affect tire temperatures as expected. Idk, for some reason camber adjustments have just never seemed to work right for me in this game. Also when you say 5-10 temp difference you mean C right? So I could do 10-20F instead there?
fwiw I'm trying this using the Huracan gt3
I do mean degrees C yes. Temps are to be used as a bit of a guide to indicate if you're using the full width of the tyre. Some tracks are more demanding so the outside section of the tyre will remain hotter giving you a lower spread. Other tracks, there may only be 1 corner where you really use the outer edge and therefore there's a bigger spread.
For GT3 cars, the more you increase the camber angle, the greater the potential grip you can get in a corner, up to a point. The greater the angle though, the snappier the car is going to feel when it breaks away. Lower camber angles will give you better braking and traction off corners where the car isn't leaning over on the tyre, and of course is better for wet conditions as there car produces less GForce and therefore doesn't lean as much. It will also make the car feel more progressive as you start to slide.
So in the case of Brands Hatch, especially the GP, I would go higher cambers on the left tyres to make use of the medium to high speed cornering grip. For the right side, I would probably go 0.2 to 0.4 less angle than the left as you'll want that grip in the 3 right handers as they're all medium or medium to high speed corners.
@@Yorkie065 thank you, great explanation :)
Schooled!
With the camber angle, since it's a negative number...What does "increase" mean exactly, going more towards zero? So, from -3.5 to say -2.5?
Increase would mean to increase the amount of angle, so going from -3.0 to -4.0.
@@Yorkie065 Ok, great. Thanks. Appreciate you replying.
I wish instead of videos you could simply read a pdf with all various settings for strictly PS4 version
Why are the cars moving around so much in this game? I love the 70's and Group C cars, but when I brake the car leans forward way too much... Like it has some monstertruck suspension or something. How can I fix this?
The first things that come to my mind are:
1. changing the weight distribution from front to rear (if possible)
2. more brake power to the rear
3. changing the ride height (lower rear), but this affects the car aerodynamically, so watch out to keep the balance
4. stiffer springs on the front (fast bump)
What platform is this on?
I'm on PC (check the description, always!)
there is no proper way to explain this while only sitting in the settings screen you have to change and then go to telemetry view to show how the numbers change and how it affects certain turns
Gamepad people - 18:1 steering ratio
Theres no effect for pad and steering ratio. Thanks though
Ur wrong....it is
softening=decreasing.. right? :')
Correct.
Fuck me, 42 minutes? Really?