3D Printer Enclosure - Extractor Fan with Temperature Controller - Wiring - PrusaBox, Tukkari, Lack.
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- How to fit & wire up an extractor fan and temperature controller into a 3D printer enclosure. Two versions of fans & controllers discussed.
They can be added to any enclosure, including PrusaBox, Tukkari, Lack etc.
Please 'like' and SUBSCRIBE if you liked this video.
COMING SOON: RASPBERRY Pi FEATURES FOR PRUSABOX & OTHER ENCLOSURES.
Also check out my other videos on PrusaBox and other enclosures for 3D printing.
If you want more details on the Prusa Box enclosure, please see the manufacturers website
www.printer-bo...
For Tukkari enclosures, please see Europe - www.Tukkari.com, USA/Global - www.tukkari.store
Temp control bezel - www.thingivers...
STL file for the black fan/filter housing available for free from Thingiverse - designed for solid walled enclosures (plexi/wood) www.thingivers... this is my own design.
Or use the blue fan housing designed for PrusaBox but will fit most enclosures, see the downloads section at www.printer-bo... to obtain the STL file for free.
The Zortrax hepa/carbon filters and high pressure fan are available from www.printer-bo...
The Noctua IPPC3000 high pressure fan is available from (UK) amzn.to/3sq3sGS (USA) amzn.to/3spFagk
The Noctua speed control unit is available from (UK) amzn.to/3gc8cen (USA) amzn.to/3mfyi43
The PWM speed controller (if the fan only has +/- cables) can be bought from Amazon or Ebay
The temperature control unit shown is available from Ebay UK/US
Alternatively you can use a W1219 temperature controller.
Some but not all the above links may be affiliate links.
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#Prusaenclosuretemperature
#Prusaenclosureplexiglass
#Prusaenclosurethingiverse
#Prusaenclosureventilation
Thanks for the video it explains everything I needed to know for my lack enclosure project .
If you needed more heat in the cabinet, as sucking air through filter and out of cabinet is drawing out your warm air. Could add a pipe on the outside of the fan/filter and blow the filtered air back into the cabinet for ABS etc..
I tend to have the extractor turned off when doing ABS/ASA to keep the temps up. An alternative would be to have a filter/fan that doesnt exhaust to the outside. But this potentially causes draughts which are not good for this medium.
The temp/humidity controller is great. I was thinking I'd need an Arduino for that. And a computer-type Noctura fan would be perfect. I would try to find a way to control the speed of the fan automatically and I would add a lot more activated carbon to the setup. Pre-made carbon filters are way overpriced when you can buy 5 pounds of the stuff for like $30.
thank you 👍 this prusa box is awesome.
Hey Collin, it's better to first mount the HEPA filter and then the Carbon filter (as shown on the printerbox website, actually). Otherwise you'll polute your carbon filter with particles that could've been filtered out by the HEPA...
Hmmm? I have seen at least 2 filter products where carbon is on inside.😄
I do understand what you mean
I'm pretty sure its carbon than HEPA, the HEPA filter should last 6 months+ and the carbon changed out more frequently
Greats video series man! I have a box coming too and I’m pretty excited
Great explanation and displays!
Hey Colin I have my box! If your so inclined I am streaming the second video of the build tonight! I would love if you want to come on stream? Let me know.
Sure. Link? Time?
Hello, thanks for taking your time to make these videos in such a detailed way, is it necessary to use the buck converter if I use a 12v fan with a 12v thermostat?
No. I used it because I also used the 5v feed. But the converter also gives you a socket plus terminal connector on 12v side which makes connections easy.
hi colin i dont understand why you need the buck converter when all components are 12v
Next - adding a power LED to Raspberry Pi, ready for modular front panel and Octoprint / Octodash czcams.com/video/m2EyFMRwxac/video.html
#raspberrypi #raspberrypiled #raspberrypipowerled octoprint #octodash #3dprinting #prusabox
If the Buck Converter Converts 12V to 5V, then how is the Fan getting the 12V it needs?
There are 12v outputs next to the 12v input. I use those.
@@colinhill so then we dont strictly need the buck converter, we could just use a 12v power supply with a led terminal plug?
@@GalaxyerLP yes that's an option. I tend to have other devices that also use 5v, but if you don't have any then just use a 12v supply direct
@@colinhill thx
Thanks for the explanations. Great information. Wouldn't it be great (in terms of noise reduction) to have the temperature control to control the fan speed autonomously? As such fan speed could increase and decrease as necessary, avoiding the annoying noise of a full speed fan.
Or, is this maybe not the aim of this story? Or simply far too complicated/expensive?
There are no such solutions. You can add a manual speed controller but I'm not aware of an automated speed controller solution that would need to be part of a thermostat setup.
Hey Colin,
first of all thank you for your video, it explains a lot and is very beneficial for other amateur 3D printers like myself. I wanted to ask if you considered other Noctua fan - Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000 PWM (29,7 dB). It seems to be much quieter than iPPC-3000 that you are using(43,5 dB). Is the level of iPPC-3000 based on some estimations? I plan to have fan inside the enclosure a to push the air inside.
I think i decided on the 3000 because it has a better capacity to push air through the hepa filter.
@@colinhill Considering that I would have to live in the same room as printer and would be mainly printing PETG and ASA(maybe sometimes ABS) how do you see amount of noise produced by the fan. I read that you already moved the printer to the other room but still maybe you have some thoughts on that? Is it louder that printer extruder moving?
@@mateusz_932 fan will be noisy. Mine is by my office desk and I can tolerate it, but no good if you want to watch TV or sleep. I don't use fan for abs and I don't recommend sleeping in same room when doing abs, it smells even using enclosure.
Hi, Colin! I have the rocker switches, but I'm not sure if I need a specific size of spade connector. Do you have a link to the ones you used that you could share or information on the size I should purchase? Thanks again for everything you've done for the PrusaBox community!
I bought a pack which included 3 different sizes of spade and rubber insulators from Amazon in a plastic case.
@@colinhill Then I'll do the same! =) Thanks for the quick response!
Love your content thanks for the share and multiple videos on this topic.
I’m just waiting for my hepa filters to arrive, got all parts printed and was wondering if you could recommend a decent 12v power brick. See so many conflicting reviews. Also a link for the seals you used.
I’ve Gone for the Noctua fan controller and fans. Quite the shopping list but will be worth it.
Thanks in advance
Hi, The brick is pot luck, i would suggest at least a 5A supply, just do review research. I've had mine for a while now, but in UK its amzn.to/3xYoQWT. Seals = EPDM from Polymax.co.uk i tried 2.62 and 2.4mm thickness.
@@colinhill
That’s a massive help thanks.
Have a query on the Noctua power connections.
From the controller there is a sata power connector and a pwm connector for motherboards.
Am I correct in thinking I simply cut the pwm on that dual cable and shrink wrap end, then connect the positive (yellow on my version and negative black) to the next part of loop?
Really like that style of wrap you use don’t suppose you have a link?
Much appreciated.
@@beardedbanter1489 Which country are you based in so i can try to give apprpriate links
@@colinhill based in the uk.
Thanks, just getting into electrotechnical repairs and modifications so all the links and help is much appreciated
@@beardedbanter1489 the shrink wrap is amzn.to/3OL9ywc and for the fan cables, i didnt want to start chopping the Noctua cables, so i bought some 4 cable extensions amzn.to/3Ib0myH and chopped them.
hey, very good video, thank you very much. If I want to connect two fans (one that takes air out and the other that puts it in), should I connect both together? and I can only connect a single speed control? thanks, i subscribe
I have a 40mm intake plus 120mm extractor. I will share the intake next week. Both connected to one controller
Hey Colin, where can I buy the filters? They are all out of stock 😢
Zortrax.com or 3dJake are options if you Google them for Zortrax hepa carbon filters
What do you call the little connectors you have on the little pos/neg leads you put on the buck converter?
The clear ones are just multi way electrical connectors, sometimes known as chocolate block connectors.
i am reviewing all your video's but where the heck did you order that buckconverter? My prusa box is assambled now so it's time to do some upgrades :)
Just from amazon
@@colinhill do you have a link? Cause they have a ton of buck converters there. Love you videoos btw. Got myself a second hand brand new prusa box for just 110 euro's.
@@hansstraat1978 UK or USA?
@@colinhill Netherlands :) thanks, everything from UK is more expensive now.
@@hansstraat1978 www.amazon.nl/ICQUANZX-Converter-Transformer-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B07RGB2HB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?crid=2O6XN9HQ8766V&keywords=buck+converter+12v&qid=1697742457&sprefix=Buck+converter%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-12
Hello Collin,
Do you know if the Noctua 120 x120 x 25 will work in the PrusaBox?
I use the Noctua ippc3000 and that's 120x25
Great! Thank you so much. Your videos have been extremely helpful.
Can you provide links for the buck controller and the temp & humidity controller?
buck converter try amzn.to/3cOuvYL but i cannot find the temp humidity panel controller. But if you only need it for temp then perhaps something like this is similar amzn.to/3OTf3rM
@@colinhill Thank you!
Ou trouvé les micro switch que vous utilisé dans votre vidéo ?
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PVZ18ZP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@colinhill je me suis fais avoir ,ceux que j'avais commander son trop gros ,mais les votre son plus en stock
@@pascalperrin-bonnet7119 amazon.fr? eBay?
I can’t find the Temperature Control Unit SHT20 for the printer-box. Can you post a link please
I cannot find it on eBay or amazon at the moment. You may need to source an alternative module and modify the housing
@@colinhill what would be a good alternative middle to use that would fit in the printer-box?
@@K1llerElite68 If you fit the modular front or normal front there are plates for the other LED display and temp controller - czcams.com/video/iNBipWZxWxI/video.html
Hi Colin
Thanks for the great video. I am currently building an enclosure for my printer. One of the challenges I tried to solve is even heat distribution in actively heated enclosure.
What are your thoughts for these questions?
How can the airflow in an enclosure be optimized so that there is an almost even temperature everywhere inside the enclosure?
The airflow can be enforced with an additional fan/blower but would that, in turn, harm/disrupt the running print?
Would an exhaust and intake air filtration system help to circulate the air and to establish not only a cleaner air but also better distribution of the hot air?
If yes, where would you place the exhaust and intake pipes? Is there an optimal position for the active heater?
What are you printing. My Prusabox exceeds 45 degrees with ASA. You will never get a fully even temp due to the nature of convection. You want to avoid draughts if doing ASA or ABS so my extractor is usually off, as that also cools the box
Hello, I already have my enclosure almost ready for my ender 3v2.
I am about to buy this same temperature control unit and the same speed control. I will use a 12v power supply to power led lighting, temp control unit, and fans.
About the fans, is there any in particular i need? does it have to be pwm? or can it be anyone? Noctua are too expensive in my country, so I'll buy cheaper ones.
Do you still use this temperature control unit? or recommend another? ( I understand that this unit controls from -20 to 60°c, is it enough? )
sorry if there are many questions, lol, I depend on you, since I am going to do the same installation.
Hi. If you are NOT using the Noctua speed controller, then just use a 2 cable fan. You also dont need a PWM if you just want the fan to turn on/off without speed adjustment. You can use either of the temperature display units shown, direct with the fan. BUT the fan must be a high pressure fan (a normal PC case fan wont work). The Noctua IPPC3000 is a good example. There are other models such as - model XFAN 9523 - RDH1225S (12v 0.4A)
A similar version from a different manufacturer but same model number is available at Amazon here UK: amzn.to/3gzd5h9 USA: amzn.to/3gxkn68
Of course, if you won't be using carbon/hepa filters, then actually you can just use a cheap PC case fan. High pressure fans are only needed to push/pull air through these filters. Hope this helps you.
@@colinhill Thank you very much for the answer, I appreciate it very much.
I don't plan to use filters since the printer is in a garage and I don't need it.
I would like to be able to regulate its speed since with certain filaments I would need ventilation without large air currents.
So with some 2-wire pc coolers, a speed controller and the temp control unit am I going to be fine?
@@OscarAlvarezVR if you want to regulate speed use the pwm controller shown. It only needs two wires to fan.
is it just me or did he not use the buck converter at all?
Used the screw terminal output on 12v side. The 5v end is used for Pi connection. Could have just used a 12v socket if I was only dealing with 12v ancillaries. The choice is entirely yours.