DIY Kart Engine Dyno ! Part 1
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- čas přidán 7. 10. 2021
- Using a car alternator as a load, this is the small 50cc Engine Dyno I have been building for a local schools eco-marathon championship!
Full construction plans and details as well as source code will available once I have completed it!
PLEASE do part 2. I am especially interested in the wiring of the alternator. I've got the rest together
Hi Alex, did you ever get your dyno up and running? I have questions about how to wire the alternator also. Thanks
@@mikefries2146 Hi Mike. I'm not there yet. I will let you know. I am thinking of a 3-fase heating coil of a boiler, hook every winding to one fase of the alternator and apply current to the rotor for braking power.
Excellent video!! Please do a part 2 this is very interesting! I plan to do a very similar setup this summer, but I thought of adding a brake rotor (as a weight) to the shaft of the alternator to be able to do pulls also (dynamic test) instead of only static.
Just to develop on my idea... I understand you wouldn't be able to measure the torque on the load cell with a dynamic test. This is what I would do to calculate power from RPM on a dynamic test:
1. First you perform a static test say at 2k RPM to measure the torque of the engine at that speed
2. Then, you perform a dynamic test and you only measure the rpm of the shaft, then you derivate to get acceleration.
3. Since you measured the torque at 2k rpm, and now you have acceleration, you can figure out the inertia of the whole shaft to calibrate it.
4. From now on you can directly correlate acceleration to torque/power :D
@@rantanplan1911 You could, however my plan was to hold and read every say 500 rpm automatsically to then generate the curve across the RPM range
PLEASE do part 2. I am especially interested
Great video and thanks for the information! Have been thinking of linking several alternators to try and achieve the same for slightly higher power!
Good luck
@mtechautomotive Sorry to bring up an older video. I found this very interesting and wondered if you were able to supply an update on how this finished up?
Im trying to figure out something similiar for a 15hp project with my son.
Great video
NICE! can't wait for " DIY Kart Engine Dyno ! Part 2" SUBSCRIBE ! , will you be sharing the arduino software " Open Source " ?
Many alternators have zener diodes for rectification, clamping output to ~20, sometimes an external rectifier is needed.
I have loaded a 10hp chainsaw to clutch slip with a 100A alternator, with basically the same setup you have here.
Interesting - there is definaetly a diode bank in this unit - can you explain more? I assume you removed the diodes and just went AC and higher voltages?
@@mtechautomotive I believe oem went with Zener diodes for the rectifier bank when cars went EFI, reason being that a failed “on” regulator could caused serious damage, I have seen 170V with mine open circuit, it would only hit 20V before I modded it, the zener diodes clamp/limits the max voltage across them as a safety measure.
I had to fully disassemble my alternator to gain access to the diode bank, I cut the original diodes out and soldered three wires in their place, leading to a (cheap ebay) 150amp full bridge three phase rectifier, on a heatsink, then onto my load bank.
Alternator was star wound, so 3x winding ends are connected inside the alternator.
You could go to AC, but then you need to wire for three phases on your load bank, a pain in the proverbial, and can’t be done with a single element.
What rpm range do you plan to test between?
I’m running around 42 volts with bigger saws, so outputting 3x more power at the same amps than 14v
Check my video for the rpm, volts and Watts on an alternator under ~6hp load, amps averaged around 75 through the run.
I’ve been thinking about building a dyno that generates power as a load instead of sucking it in as found in eddy brake dynos. I like your design. I think I’ll build a car sized version, anyone interested in such a project should subscribe.
Can you make detal video about softer and hardwer
what happened to the rest?
You can also use light bulbs to create load, easy to turn them on and off
becuase we can inject stator current, we can vary the load continuously and smoothly from 0-~4hp - we can use a PWM power supply to do this and software control it to also allow closed loop RPM holding :)
Standard light bulbs are not particularly suitable for this.
Domestic automotive alternators are low voltage high current devices, as the voltage output will be less than the 110/220V higher wattage lamps are designed for, you need to use more than expected, example being a 1000w 220v halogen lamp draws only 2 amps at 60 volts, it will only consume 120 watts.
Depending on the load you can expect 12 to 60 volts from an alternator loaded like this, 150+ with no electrical load.
Just not night enough voltage for bulbs, air heaters etc when you need to dump a lot of electrical load.
@@motorsawing6739 We are using 12V heater elements as the load dumping
You say direct access to the stator winding? You mean the rotor winding? You'll get more power out of it by eliminating the diodes, changing to delta wiring and using 3 loads, one for each phase.
any updates on this?
Where can i find part 2
Did it work
Were you ever able to get this thing running? Looks like a great design.
Thanlks, yes all running I need to do the part 2 video ijn due course!
@@mtechautomotive where did you get the shaft extension for the alternator input shaft? Is it threaded onto the alternator shaft? So cool, beautiful design.
Where's part2
any updates yet?