That's looking pretty sharp mate,well done . The guards on the hq have a bit longer bannana line to blend into the nose cone the jxz and wb not as defined or as long.,didn't even realise until watching this. You have that prosses mastered mate 👍
I see you’ve used filler then poly then filler then Polly and maybe more times than I’ve seen. Are you worried about the excessive amounts of product your putting on the body? I’d say it would be well over 1000 if not 2000 microns and it’s not got primer Color / clear yet . What’s your thoughts?
Surface correction, panel alignment and overall “flushness” of the panels was never a consideration 50 years ago when this body was manufactured, so of course there’s going to be more film thickness to help correct that. I would argue that the process I use is more or less the standard for restoration work these days and is a far cry from the standard in finishes of years gone by. Very valid question though and yes the microns would be higher than what you would find on a smash repair job, but that’s why I’ve chosen the products I’m using as they’re designed with restoration work in mind. If I had done my filler work and hammered on 5+ coats of HS primer filler than the holdout and longevity of the job would be compromised. The RestoFinish Polyprimer is designed to be used as a surface refinement.
@@TheRestoShed think the micron thickness would be much greater than a good resto job too . Ideally the filler work gets done 98% then poly . I swear I’ve seen you poly and fill the body 2-4 times . That doesn’t worry you ? The process you’ve been doing is great if you done it once . But your obviously not doing it 100% and needing to redo it time and time again . What would you change for future projects?
The first round of Polyprimer I put on over the whole car was only two coats besides the tops of the doors which I put a third on for a little more build to help block in the reverse curves. That lot of Polyprimer was blocked 120-180 and I fixed a few small areas which is very normal on any job of this size, any cut throughs I sealed up with a light coat of epoxy to hold it for the time being until I’m ready for refinishing. I chose to recoat the sides of the body with the another 2 coats of Polyprimer because they were the most difficult areas of the whole body for me so I’m not sure where you’re seeing me do what you’re accusing me of but I can assure you that you have me mistake for someone else.
The curves look to be where the sandman decals are
I'll try this on my HJ guard. I never thought about using the PVC pipe for this job. Great result. (from a former HQ owner)
One way to make a hard job a little less hard I think. Thanks for watching.
Those curves look identical to my 71 Pontiac Lemans. This process will help me do the bodywork on it. Thanks.😊JR in 🇨🇦
Glad to have helped 👍🏼🇦🇺
The '74 Le Man's that Carrie Fisher drove in The Blues Beothers is my favourite red potato. 🇦🇺
These models were modelled of the pontiac.
That's looking pretty sharp mate,well done .
The guards on the hq have a bit longer bannana line to blend into the nose cone the jxz and wb not as defined or as long.,didn't even realise until watching this.
You have that prosses mastered mate 👍
Yep J-B is a lot different to HQ. Thanks for watching
Looks awesome mate well done 👌
Thanks mate 🙏🏼
i like how u teach
I see you’ve used filler then poly then filler then Polly and maybe more times than I’ve seen. Are you worried about the excessive amounts of product your putting on the body? I’d say it would be well over 1000 if not 2000 microns and it’s not got primer Color / clear yet . What’s your thoughts?
Surface correction, panel alignment and overall “flushness” of the panels was never a consideration 50 years ago when this body was manufactured, so of course there’s going to be more film thickness to help correct that.
I would argue that the process I use is more or less the standard for restoration work these days and is a far cry from the standard in finishes of years gone by.
Very valid question though and yes the microns would be higher than what you would find on a smash repair job, but that’s why I’ve chosen the products I’m using as they’re designed with restoration work in mind.
If I had done my filler work and hammered on 5+ coats of HS primer filler than the holdout and longevity of the job would be compromised.
The RestoFinish Polyprimer is designed to be used as a surface refinement.
@@TheRestoShed think the micron thickness would be much greater than a good resto job too . Ideally the filler work gets done 98% then poly . I swear I’ve seen you poly and fill the body 2-4 times . That doesn’t worry you ? The process you’ve been doing is great if you done it once . But your obviously not doing it 100% and needing to redo it time and time again . What would you change for future projects?
The first round of Polyprimer I put on over the whole car was only two coats besides the tops of the doors which I put a third on for a little more build to help block in the reverse curves.
That lot of Polyprimer was blocked 120-180 and I fixed a few small areas which is very normal on any job of this size, any cut throughs I sealed up with a light coat of epoxy to hold it for the time being until I’m ready for refinishing.
I chose to recoat the sides of the body with the another 2 coats of Polyprimer because they were the most difficult areas of the whole body for me so I’m not sure where you’re seeing me do what you’re accusing me of but I can assure you that you have me mistake for someone else.