14 minutes on how and where George Mallory gave up his 1924 Everest summit attempt
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- This presentation illustrates George Mallory and Andrew Irvine's 8th June 1924 Everest attempt. The video will take you away from the often repeated narrative and hopefully persuasively show what they actually planned, where they climbed, how and why they had to give up, the accident that crippled Mallory, why they each took a separate route back, how Mallory's tenacity shines through, and how they sadly lost their lives.
Sources of note to explore further include:
CZcams- 'Lost on Everest- 'The Search for Mallory and Irvine'- particularly section 4/5 where he is located and the rope around his waist is visable .
Jake Norton website (jakenorton.com)- including a response to a question about Mallory's route.
CZcams- Jake Norton interview with Thom Pollard regarding a possible zig-zag route to the ridge
Michael Tracy and his CZcams channel
Malloryandirvine.com
Everest1924.com
CZcams- 'Epic of Everest' 1924 expedition film by John Noel
Everestnews.com (before the Mallory and Irvine content was moved) who interviewed Xu Jing
www.alpklubspb.ru/everest/everest52.htm for Wang Fu-chou's account of sighting Irvine
www.merton.ox.ac.uk/node/3214 for Ruth's condolence letter to Irvine's family
Photos of 1924 Expedition- Bentley Beetham, 1924 (bentleybeetham.org)
'Ghosts of Everest'- 2000- Jochen Hemmleb
'Detectives on Everest'- 2002- Jochen Hemmleb
'The Crystal Horizon'- 1989- Reinhold Messner
'White Limbo'- 1987- Lincoln Hall
Colnel Edward Norton dispatches in The Alpine Journal 1924
The Mount Everest Expedition of 1933 by Hugh Ruttledge in the Himalayan Journal - Sport
From information that Michael Tracy has put together, and very well I might add, I 'd bet they made it, and the fall was on the way down.
If we could only find that equipment, we could all have another really interesting debate.
Excellent video. Not sure why Irvine would have abandoned Mallory when he (Mallory) was able to traverse all the way to the point at which he fell. And you will be aware that there are different views on how far Mallory might have fallen. You have made a case for disregarding Odell's sighting but it's a big call. Michael Tracy's theory, which includes a successful summit, is very persuasive but does rely on Mallory taking the zigzag route which no-one has identified, let alone climbed. So who knows?
Not many disagree with Odell, but as you say, I did. Thanks.
That’s a very reasonable theory. I think that Mallory getting injured and then traversing that far back before the final death fall is fairly implausible.
An interesting take on this event. thanks
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
Interesting and well argued theories presented in a non-sensationalist way. We'll never know the truth, but the suggestions in this video are at least plausible.
Thank you.
Very interesting!
Sorry ,I’m with M Tracy on this one.
Too many "ifs" in that theory of Mallory taking two subsequent falls. It seems to me more a piece of fiction, sometimes without support on real facts. But one question is crucial: where are the oxygen equipaments (bottles and back-carrier) ? That would proof the route they choosed and position reached as clearly as the camera. If one of the bottles happen to be found around the third step, then the suspicious of Mallory summiting , maybe with Irvine, will be almost confirmed. The fact that no bottle was found on the ridge, above first step, suggest that the climbers traverse the yellow band, under the ridge. And I don't think that they would throw the empty bottles down on the slopes. They knew the discarded bottles would signal the route and proof their positions for future climbers. I think the equipaments are there, waiting for someone to be discovered. If they did the traverse, it almost sure that they reached the couloir. From there, nobody could know what happened. The bottles would tell us an important part of the history, if they could be found someday.
I agree that any equipment should still be in the couloir, on rocks/ledges but above where Messner and others climbed onto the pyramid face.
@@danamos4621This is my bet too, that there would be empty oxygen bottles in the so called zig zag area, on the top of Great Couloir. If Mallory and Irvine had taken the Ridge Route, climbers would had discovered more 2 or 3 oxygen bottles above first step. Well, .maybe the chinese throwed them down the Easr Face, in 1960 or 1975., who knows.. The only bottle discovered, as long as I know, was way below the first step.
Iam a keyboard voyeur climber and as such have no practical experience or knowledge. I have been fascinated by Everest and her lethal 'Siren Call' i WANT to believe that they made it to summit........but....... wonderful presentation and i await your channel gifts... are you a climber snd or have you climbed the Big E xx
Have done a little climbing, but not an Everest climber. Too expensive I am afraid.
Everyone thinks they got it figured out. The only tangible evidence is E of the first step and with those facts one could surmise they never even got to the first step before they fell.